What Did You Do To Your 3rd Gen Today?

[3bears]

The 96's nearly 8 year old low beams went out within days of each other so I had to use the brights for my morning commute for a couple of days. Nobody seemed to notice. Remembering an email conversation with Daniel Stern last year I decided it was time to fix what I didn't think of as particularly broken.

It was a difficult decision to spend money on something I already have that I thought were pretty okay, but after a lot of debate...

For fun, the 96's original headlight- it's been years since these were changed for a set off a newer junkyard truck

The newer style headlights from said junkyard truck that've been on the 96 a very long time- this is the best of the two

The new headlight-

Okay, this is not the worst update ever.

when you say new headlight, is it brand new and if so what brand ? I have one that is beginning to peel the chrome on the inside

 

[habanero]

when you say new headlight, is it brand new and if so what brand ? I have one that is beginning to peel the chrome on the inside

Brand new Toyota, Serra had a discount off their normally discounted price that I couldn't resist.
Headlamp Unit Assembly Left Hand #81170-35300 and
Headlamp Unit Assembly Right Hand #81130-35320
They are glass.

They call it an assembly but you do have to move your backings over. I didn't think it difficult.

I used chalk on the garage door to outline a guide to aim the high and low beams once they were all together.



Rock Auto has TYC for a lot less- 2 with backs about what I paid for one. I have absolutely no experience with them. They appear to have the backing and the lens is listed as glass. Someone else would have to chime in about those. Edit: Spiker Engineering posted just below about TYC based on a conversation with Daniel Stern. Thanks for the input!

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Brand new Toyota...

Rock Auto has TYC for a lot less- 2 with backs about what I paid for one. I have absolutely no experience with them. They appear to have the backing and the lens is listed as glass. Someone else would have to chime in about those.

I'm no expert, but I talked at length to someone who is, just like you did (Dan Stern). His opinion was that OEM Toyota headlights is the only way to go for our trucks, and that all others have inferior optics. He said he'd only use TYC etc for projector conversions - then again, he's usually opposed to those kinds of conversions, so we come around full circle to OEM reflectors .

 

[Cement_truck]

almost removed my cams...

 

[GrubGutss]

I had the pleasure of doing LBJ's. It was much easier than I thought it would be.

 

[2TH4IST]

Got the last bit of aluminum for the e fan conversion. Also got a set of motorwest performance 5vz injectors. A bit of reliability update/maintenance. The hose clamps worked perfectly for the cv boots on the track motive axles.

But most of this will be on hold as I got the position for the transfer to a new location for work. So I can't down the 4runner for more then the weekend.

Also my baja designs onx6+ light bar started to croak. Well see how their warranty is. A few of the leds changed color (a bluish color) and the beam pattern went wonky. So hopefully I get it back soon. 10-14 day turnaround.

 

[KD5NRH]

Still need to finish cleaning up the external USB and mic wires, toss the packaging from the various crap to help make it happen, and find where I dropped the other A/C knob, but with some creative bracket design and 3D printing, I got a 10" Android stereo mounted in the 98.

 

[Drgriff]

I ran a hot wire from the battery to under the center console and installed a fuse block to add charging ports in the front and at the rear door. Found a really nice panel on etsy to install in the back.

 

[KD5NRH]

I ran a hot wire from the battery to under the center console and installed a fuse block to add charging ports in the front and at the rear door. Found a really nice panel on etsy to install in the back.

Got a link? I've been tossing around ideas for 3D printing a panel, so it's handy to see what others have come up with.

I've also thought about just swapping the 12V socket in the back with one of those direct replacements with USB A, C and 20W PD, since pretty much everything I'd want to power back there is USB anyway. The one I have would need either a new plug or just a pigtail since the lug arrangement is different, but that would be the fastest and easiest solution.

 

[amalik]

To be honest with you guys, I haven't been around the forum for like the last several years. Looks like most "classic" members have moved onto Reddit or IG or maybe some of you are still around (Earth to [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION] ? )

Dropped her off to my mechanic on Saturday. After neglecting the truck for a few years, Summer 2025 is now the time to fix Valve Cover Gaskets (+Half-Moons reseal/Cam Plugs/PVC Valve+Grommet replacement) and Oil Cooler O-Ring in an effort to keep her going for another 100k Miles.

What prompted me to do this job is that I am hearing valve ticks, so I'm pairing the VCG job with a valve re-lash job since the access is the same (valve covers off).

Currently sitting at 275,000 miles on my 97.

I'm really hoping that is the end of my "oil leak symptoms".

Last summer - I had timing belt kit done - water pump, thermostat, crank+cam seals, harmonic balancer, crank bolt, etc done, so literally I don't think there are any parts left that could leak oil; here's to hoping I'm not misinterpreting oil leaks as tranny fluid leaks as rear main could be leaking or tranny lines!

A lot of people would give up on the truck at this point, but I still think spending $2k max to get another 100,000 miles is more than worth it. Plus as you oldschool guys know around here; the sentimental value with these trucks is hard to measure sometimes. Wife thinks i'm a little crazy as the truck almost turns 30!

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Currently sitting at 275,000 miles on my 97.

I'm really hoping that is the end of my "oil leak symptoms"....

...here's to hoping I'm not misinterpreting oil leaks as tranny fluid leaks as rear main could be leaking or tranny lines!!

I remember you from years back!

I'm in a similar boat as you (215K on my '97) and have a slow oil leak. I've replaced everything other than the rear main seal, and I suspect that that is the culprit. Just waiting for my garage to be finished so I can put the truck on a lift to get it high enough to drop the tranny and see what I see.

 

[habanero]

To be honest with you guys, I haven't been around the forum for like the last several years. Looks like most "classic" members have moved on...

I'm personally more rat rod than classic...nice to see you're still around.
The 96 turns 30 in December, still my preferred grocery getter and daily driver.

Valve cover gaskets are reasonable, especially given their age.

 

[fourfive]

I'm in a similar boat as you (215K on my '97) and have a slow oil leak. I've replaced everything other than the rear main seal, and I suspect that that is the culprit. Just waiting for my garage to be finished so I can put the truck on a lift to get it high enough to drop the tranny and see what I see.

Slow oil leak on mine too near the front of the oil pan that's been going on for several years. I've changed my valve cover gaskets twice & the dipstick o-ring during that time which didn't seem to change much.

How did you troubleshoot, UV dye? What all have you replaced and has the leak improved since?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Slow oil leak on mine too near the front of the oil pan that's been going on for several years. I've changed my valve cover gaskets twice & the dipstick o-ring during that time which didn't seem to change much.

How did you troubleshoot, UV dye? What all have you replaced and has the leak improved since?

I've replaced those as well, to no effect. The front crankshaft seal was replaced as part of the timing belt job. So then I convinced myself that it must be the oil cooler, so I replaced those seals/o-rings, but I'm still finding oil around the front of the oil pan. I haven't tried any dyes yet, that may be my next step. But I'm thinking that the FPIG at the oil pan is unlikely to fail (maybe I'm wrong), whereas a wear item like the rear main seal is a possible culprit. And from reading here it does look like the rear main seal does not last forever, so it may well be time.

 

[habanero]

...the FPIG at the oil pan...

If it's of any use- Oil pan around 312,xxx miles since I'd pulled the front diff and it was right there right there. It'd been very oily along the block more on the left than right, and all over the wiring harness in the front of the pan. I did the rear main around 316,xxx miles while replacing the clutch because it was slightly oily. I'd already replaced the oil cooler rocks....er....o-rings and the dipstick tube o-ring awhile ago.
My note on the oil pan-

That thing came off way too easy. There were 2 nuts and 17 bolts on mine (FSM says 4 nuts/15 bolts).
Undid those, used a utility knife to interrupt the seal. Got part of one side done and the pan fell off into my hand.
It was definitely leaking at the front and rear. What's left of the sealing material is mostly scraping right off with the plastic scraper.

 

[Spiker Engineering]

If it's of any use- Oil pan around 312,xxx miles since I'd pulled the front diff and it was right there right there. I did the rear main around 316,xxx miles while replacing the clutch because it was slightly oily.
My note on the oil pan-

Since you've done both, which was the smaller project - rear main seal or the oil pan (including dropping the diff)?

 

[habanero]

Since you've done both, which was the smaller project - rear main seal or the oil pan (including dropping the diff)?

Oof. I'd almost rather remove the front diff than the trans/transfer/transfer. At least it doesn't weigh 2 million pounds. Doing either is not too bad, getting to them is the kicker. The oil pan required a lot of cleaning. It's a lot....oilier. Heh. I used the bread trick to easily remove the pilot bearing...that was kinda neat to do.

The front diff requires some patience near the flange for the driveshaft and the rear front diff mount near it- and me with a 1" body lift supposedly makes it easier. Unkind words were thought (sometimes out loud). Front driveshaft unbolted. There's the front diff mounts too, the cv shafts have to be pulled from the diff and all that entails that, like the lower ball joint bolts to be able to move the spindles. There's a small variety of vacuum lines and plugs for the front diff. The front wiring loom was easy enough.

I only did the rear main because I had the transmission out for a clutch. It was barely oily. That's transmission and transfers, clutch slave, starter, exhaust just to get it out of my way, sway bar, inspection plate, plugs to unplug, both driveshafts too, etc. and I know I'm forgetting to mention stuff in either case.

For the 96 the oil pan was by far the most bang for the buck. Took care of the oil leak and cleaned up the pick-up screen. I had the front diff out for another project so it was a no-brainer.

 

[fourfive]

I've replaced those as well, to no effect. The front crankshaft seal was replaced as part of the timing belt job. So then I convinced myself that it must be the oil cooler, so I replaced those seals/o-rings, but I'm still finding oil around the front of the oil pan. I haven't tried any dyes yet, that may be my next step. But I'm thinking that the FPIG at the oil pan is unlikely to fail (maybe I'm wrong), whereas a wear item like the rear main seal is a possible culprit. And from reading here it does look like the rear main seal does not last forever, so it may well be time.

But a rear main seal leak wouldn't lead to oil in front of the pan though right?

 

[Spiker Engineering]

Oof. I'd almost rather remove the front diff than the trans/transfer/transfer. At least it doesn't weigh 2 million pounds. Doing either is not too bad, getting to them is the kicker. The oil pan required a lot of cleaning. It's a lot....oilier. Heh. I used the bread trick to easily remove the rear main...that was kinda neat to do.

The front diff requires some patience near the flange for the driveshaft and the rear front diff mount near it- and me with a 1" body lift supposedly makes it easier. Unkind words were thought (sometimes out loud). Front driveshaft unbolted. There's the front diff mounts too, the cv shafts have to be pulled from the diff and all that entails that, like the lower ball joint bolts to be able to move the spindles. There's a small variety of vacuum lines and plugs for the front diff. The front wiring loom was easy enough.

I only did the rear main because I had the transmission out for a clutch. It was barely oily. That's transmission and transfers, clutch slave, starter, exhaust just to get it out of my way, sway bar, inspection plate, plugs to unplug, both driveshafts too, etc. and I know I'm forgetting to mention stuff in either case.

For the 96 the oil pan was by far the most bang for the buck. Took care of the oil leak and cleaned up the pick-up screen. I had the front diff out for another project so it was a no-brainer.

Both of these sound awful .

 

[Spiker Engineering]

But a rear main seal leak wouldn't lead to oil in front of the pan though right?

It's hard to say where it originates, since the entire cast flange is wet with oil. So maybe it starts in the back then migrates forward.

And if it's the pan that's leaking, why would the top of the block casting be wet if it's above the the block/pan interface? I can more readily picture oil migrating back to front than bottom to top, but who knows.