Recovery points, bow shackles, and straps

patkelly4370

New member
I installed front recovery points on my 2017 4runner SR5.
Before I have to use them I have a few questions about the safest technique.
Each recovery points (2) are rated 7,165 lbs each.
9f185ceb560abf30c5902f4ecaf31521.jpg

My bow shackles are rated 8,000 lbs.
My first concern is the difference between the thickness of the recovery point and the opening of the shackle.
c68b4a5417ce48ed756ae0422abacea9.jpg

Particularly when the load is at an angle, best case would be a straight pull using both recovery points.
11e283ebbe0e54eab8f25d6ab7318b2d.jpg

Would it be safer to flip the shackle upside down?
838c18c5f9ef44eddb241e913618b19e.jpg

These recovery points have squared edges that would not be good with soft shackles.
I am prepping some rear recovery points that have rounded edges that I'll use with soft shackles.
22bb42e9a063fbce7c03db7b54848ef4.jpg

So for the front, using the bow shackles. What is my safest option?
Thank you for sharing your experience.
 
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After many, many, many hours of researching I found my answer.
Thank you to all that contributed.
The answer was "yes".

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Nobody wants to share safety tips. But we'll have lengthy discussions on pretty headlights.

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Nobody wants to share safety tips. But we'll have lengthy discussions on pretty headlights.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


What did you find with the front? More out of curiosity. I would think that the pin should go through the recovery point. But that is just a loose idea.
 
If the situation allows, use a bridle on those front recovery points with something to slide along the bridle (like a snatch block). Then attach the strap from the recovering vehicle to whatever you have on the bridle. This will evenly distribute the force and makes for a very safe and controlled recovery.

Use your steel shackles or soft shackles on your recovery points, your preference.

I have a 25ft synthetic winch line bridle for this. It was inexpensive ($60ish), super lightweight and easy to store, and has uses beyond recovery.
 
My intention is to use a bridle strap to split the force.
My concern, even using a bridle, is single shear vs double shear where the shackles pin contacts the recovery point.
Maybe a bushing to keep the shackle centered, so it doesn't twist to the side. Something like the Factor 55 "spool"

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I don't think the shackle will matter much. The attachment to the frame is the weak point. It's two relatively small weld nuts holding into the wall of the frame tubing that is relatively thin. I'd be mostly worried about the tear out strength of the two attachments to the frame rail. Those will probably give long before the shackle or the recovery hook.

I would not pull sideways at all on the near side one. It will rip the welded front nut out without too much effort (I'm assuming you haven't put any reinforcement inside the frame rail to spread the load out).

Your safest option is probably to use the OEM loops welded to the frame with a soft shackle.
 
To be honest, I never thought of or worried about the positioning of the shackles - the shackles do move during recovery, never seen that to be an issue (steel or soft shackles).

Is your concern that a pivoting shackle might deform the recovery point? or rip it out of the frame? Again, the bridle will mitigate this, assuming you follow all other safety/best-practice methods.
 
I'll use in this orientation. With a bridle strap. And hopefully never at this angle.
As someone on another forum suggested, this way the recovery point isn't trying to open the shackle.
051b78d795e2d6f1f48794255d7ab322.jpg


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With those front hooks, I'd be leary about recovery in anything other than a straight line. I see frame damage as a real possibility. In fact, I'd probably use the OEM one instead. just my .02
 
Nice install, sorry I missed the thread earlier.

What brand did you go with?

(Loved the "pretty headlights" comment btw)
 
With those front hooks, I'd be leary about recovery in anything other than a straight line. I see frame damage as a real possibility. In fact, I'd probably use the OEM one instead. just my .02

OEM hooks pull from the same point on the frame as these aftermarket ones, and at least the aftermarket ones are bolted to two separate parts of the frame instead of just the radiator support crossmember. And I would guess the recovery point would bend before the frame would.
 
I don't understand why you "mounted" recovery points other than for a bling factor--which is fine if that's what you're going for. I agree with other replies, use the OEM loops.
 
I'm no expert, thus this thread. (which is about shackle orientation, but this is good too)
I've read the loops as recovery vs tie down. I see both trains of thought. For sake of discussion I will refer to factory tie down (TD) or aftermarket recovery point (RP).
The TD, on the front, is a loop welded to a bracket of frame material, welded to the radiator support with a bead front & back of the loop. They are not "rated".
e20a853f8980d18825d1a4d20186df73.jpg

The RP is "rated" and is attached with grade 10.9 bolts, 9¼" apart, to the same spot as the TD & the main frame. It is one piece ½" thick.
52f8559c80c7312d42d387e2c618fb14.jpg
0f58b600f8ed7e7892ea49f19512c371.jpg
f1167d7bcc972a97e83fb71a31d71929.jpg

As you can see in the first picture I have both TD & RP. I was thinking of using the bow shackle in the RP and a soft shackle through the TD and the loop of the strap as a backup.
I don't do bling. They are a bright color to make them easier to find by anyone during a recovery. Someone with more experience than me may notice the TD and determine that may be a better choice for the particular situation. I left myself with options.
In the rear there is one TD. A loop welded to a .20" thick piece of metal. It has no markings on the bolts.
fdbf092059777968f64a8ac683b260a0.jpg

I have replace it with two one-piece, ½" thick RP, with grade 10.9 bolts. I also have the receiver hitch RP. Again, as many options as possible at this time.
59f209faa132f7c326b966e68de7cabd.jpg
06a6a24c6fa9106c18d3799d8c8b6ea4.jpg

Thanks to everyone for the replies and insight. I'd like to hear more thoughts and experience.
 
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I'm no expert, thus this thread. (which is about shackle orientation, but this is good too)
I've read the loops as recovery vs tie down. I see both trains of thought. For sake of discussion I will refer to factory tie down (TD) or aftermarket recovery point (RP).
The TD, on the front, is a loop welded to a bracket of frame material, welded to the radiator support with a bead front & back of the loop. They are not "rated".
e20a853f8980d18825d1a4d20186df73.jpg

The RP is "rated" and is attached with grade 10.9 bolts, 9¼" apart, to the same spot as the TD & the main frame. It is one piece ½" thick.
52f8559c80c7312d42d387e2c618fb14.jpg
0f58b600f8ed7e7892ea49f19512c371.jpg
f1167d7bcc972a97e83fb71a31d71929.jpg

As you can see in the first picture I have both TD & RP. I was thinking of using the bow shackle in the RP and a soft shackle through the TD and the loop of the strap as a backup.
I don't do bling. They are a bright color to make them easier to find by anyone during a recovery. Someone with more experience than me may notice the TD and determine that may be a better choice for the particular situation. I left myself with options.
In the rear there is one TD. A loop welded to a .20" thick piece of metal. It has no markings on the bolts.
fdbf092059777968f64a8ac683b260a0.jpg

I have replace it with two one-piece, ½" thick RP, with grade 10.9 bolts. I also have the receiver hitch RP. Again, as many options as possible at this time.
59f209faa132f7c326b966e68de7cabd.jpg
06a6a24c6fa9106c18d3799d8c8b6ea4.jpg

Thanks to everyone for the replies and insight. I'd like to hear more thoughts and experience.
With the design of the rear OEM, vs the aftermarket, i'd use the aftermarket. based on the orientation of it's mounting location. That and the fact that I'd see the OEM bending before the aftermarket.
 
I don't understand why you "mounted" recovery points other than for a bling factor--which is fine if that's what you're going for. I agree with other replies, use the OEM loops.
Hmm...
"Bling factor". Nearest mall is 100 miles.

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Dude, most pics and builds on here are about bling--which is fine. Not every goal is to have an Ultra4 racer.

No offense intended.
 
I’d say the curved part of the shackle goes in the recovery point with the pin holding the end of your strap. You can use a tree saver strap as a bridal to halve the load. Just slide the the tree save through the open end of your recovery strap and connect it to your recovery point with some shackles.

Curious why you didn’t just get a hitch mounted recovery point for the rear?

Also, these are not for bling, as some have stated. Recovery points are usually a bright color, most commonly red, so they’re easy to locate when you’re bogged. The factory tie down points might work, or they might sheer off and seriously injure someone.
 

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