0-20W oil... Is it an absolute requirement?

luv2eat

New member
I know the manual says to use 0-20W oil but will using, say 5-30W void the warranty and harm the engine? I understand the "W" stands for winter and the numbers are temperature ranges. I live in Southen California where the weather is very mild:guitar3:
as ya'll know so I can't see why I would need the 0-20W. Any body? Bueller?
 
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0w20 is a fuel economy version of 5w20 so I would think 5w20 would be a much better substitute then 5w30
 
I'd say no to 0w-20 as a must especially in your mild a climate. a 5w-20, 5w-30 or even a 10w-30 would probably be fine.


The big push to super-light oils is mostly an MPG thing. There's no doubt these newer generation engines have some very tight tolerances and trying to use a 20w-50 may leave some parts dry, especially during the first few minutes.



I would :rtfm: In most cases the manual will state "use 0w-20" or whatever. Then in small print, somewhere nearby, it'll say it's ok to use some alternate weight if 0w-20 isn't availible. The recommendation to return to 0w-20 as soon as practical is usually included:(
 
Standard Engine Oil for Canada is listed as ILSAC multigrade engine oil with a viscosity (SAE) 0W-20 or 5W-20
 
I know the manual says to use 0-20W oil but will using, say 5-30W void the warranty and harm the engine? I understand the "W" stands for winter and the numbers are temperature ranges. I live in Southen California where the weather is very mild:guitar3:
as ya'll know so I can't see why I would need the 0-20W. Any body? Bueller?
I could go into all the science and engineering behind an oil recommendation, but first... why are you asking a bunch of yahoos on the internet for information on what will and won't void your warranty? Toyota determines that; no one here is going to pay up if they turn out to be wrong, you know?

With that said... cold oil flows like sludge until it heats up. The majority of the wear on your engine occurs when it is cold because the oil is too thick to move properly. After driving your car, your oil is hot and moving freely, and when you turn the engine off, it drains away to the oil pan like water. When that oil cools back to ambient temperature, it's flowing like sludge again. Our engines are engineered to perform best with 20 viscosity oil at operating temp. Until it reaches that operating temp, the lighter 0W moves well enough to keep the engine lubricated. I would never use a 30 weight oil in this engine, it's not designed for something that thick.

The only reason to use anything other than the 0w-20 Toyota recommends is because you can't find it, and even then they say only 5w-20 is a suitable substitute until you can find the right oil. You might be able to use straight 20 weight oil in a temperate climate, but why risk it just to save a few pennies every 5k (or 10k) miles?
 
I would stick with the 0W-20, although it will probably never make any difference in theory if you had an engine problem it could very well void your warranty by not following the vehicles maintenance requirements.
 
Thanks for the explanation, though I already knew what you've said. It is a public forum and I was asking for opinions. C'mon dude........ everyone is a yahoo in one form or another!
 
And to add to the *yahoo* advice on this forum, page 614 of your Owner Manual states:

"An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle
is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions
 
I know the manual says to use 0-20W oil but will using, say 5-30W void the warranty and harm the engine? I understand the "W" stands for winter and the numbers are temperature ranges. I live in Southen California where the weather is very mild:guitar3:
as ya'll know so I can't see why I would need the 0-20W. Any body? Bueller?

Is there a reason why you would not want to use the 0w20?
 
I would :rtfm: In most cases the manual will state "use 0w-20" or whatever. Then in small print, somewhere nearby, it'll say it's ok to use some alternate weight if 0w-20 isn't availible. The recommendation to return to 0w-20 as soon as practical is usually included:(

page 614 of your Owner Manual states:

"An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle
is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions


That's what I was getting at... :D
:cheers:
 
I agree with Mike.

Also the 'W' doesn't stand for winter, it's the weight (viscosity) at operating temps.







I could go into all the science and engineering behind an oil recommendation, but first... why are you asking a bunch of yahoos on the internet for information on what will and won't void your warranty? Toyota determines that; no one here is going to pay up if they turn out to be wrong, you know?

With that said... cold oil flows like sludge until it heats up. The majority of the wear on your engine occurs when it is cold because the oil is too thick to move properly. After driving your car, your oil is hot and moving freely, and when you turn the engine off, it drains away to the oil pan like water. When that oil cools back to ambient temperature, it's flowing like sludge again. Our engines are engineered to perform best with 20 viscosity oil at operating temp. Until it reaches that operating temp, the lighter 0W moves well enough to keep the engine lubricated. I would never use a 30 weight oil in this engine, it's not designed for something that thick.

The only reason to use anything other than the 0w-20 Toyota recommends is because you can't find it, and even then they say only 5w-20 is a suitable substitute until you can find the right oil. You might be able to use straight 20 weight oil in a temperate climate, but why risk it just to save a few pennies every 5k (or 10k) miles?
 
Is there a reason why you would not want to use the 0w20?

Not really. I just wanted to know why this 4Runner requires 0-20W (maybe other 4Rs do too; I don't know since it's my first 4R). All of the other cars that I've owned allowed options depending on operating temperature. Besides, I have a couple of cases of Mobil1 5w-30 sitting in my garage that I'd like to put to use. I'll probably go out and buy some 0-20W oil anyway.
Thanks for all the posts! You too Seattlemike:zoom:
 
Thanks for the explanation, though I already knew what you've said. It is a public forum and I was asking for opinions. C'mon dude........ everyone is a yahoo in one form or another!
Asking for opinions on looks, subjective cosmetic changes, etc., I could understand. But on something that could void your warranty?
And to add to the *yahoo* advice on this forum, page 614 of your Owner Manual states:

"An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle
is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions

I'm sure if you looked hard enough, you could find plenty of other things to twist around, too. Let's look at that quote in it's correct context:

The 0W portion of the oil viscosity rating indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier starting of the engine in cold weather.

The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the oil viscosity when the oil is at its operating temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high speeds, or under extreme load conditions.
So to recap, if you are racing or constantly towing a trailer behind a fully loaded vehicle through the mountains, a higher viscosity oil MAY be a good idea, but 20 weight is what you should be using otherwise. But it doesn't say you should use a higher viscosity, that they recommend it, or that 5w30 is an acceptable alternative.
 
Not really. I just wanted to know why this 4Runner requires 0-20W (maybe other 4Rs do too; I don't know since it's my first 4R). All of the other cars that I've owned allowed options depending on operating temperature. Besides, I have a couple of cases of Mobil1 5w-30 sitting in my garage that I'd like to put to use. I'll probably go out and buy some 0-20W oil anyway.
Thanks for all the posts! You too Seattlemike:zoom:
Like another poster mentioned, it's all about the CAFE standards and emissions. There was a time when 10w30 was in the majority of vehicles on the road, much like all cars ran on leaded gas. This particular engine needs 0w20. Those money saved by using those couple of cases of 5w30 aren't worth damaging your engine, IMO.
 
Here is a good read from the Camry forum where it was discussed and some people contacted Toyota asking about it.2010 Camry 2.5L I4 Engine oil - Camry Forums - Toyota Camry Enthusiast Forum

And if you really want to read into it, here's Bob the motor oil prophet.... Welcome

I've changed my oil twice now and change it every ~7500 miles . The first time I used 6 1/2 quarts of 0w-20 Mobile 1. The next time I used 5 qts. of 5w-20 Mobil 1 that came in one of those big 5qt plastic jugs and a 1 1/2 qts of 0w-20 that I already had. The Mobil 1 in the 5qt jugs is alot cheaper at Walmart and easier to find too and they don't make it in 0w-20 in the 5qt ,at least yet.

After some research I'm personally planning on using 5w-20 Mobil 1 from now on as I live where it rarely gets real cold and I don't think I would use 5w-30 myself.I am going to have my oil analyzed by Blackstone for $25 when I change my oil again in 2000+ miles to get a reference . Blackstone Labs
 
Right now I am using what ever toyota synthretic they are using. They told me it is good passed 10k. I only have 6k right now. In my 04 runner I use royal purple. No problems.
 
Right now I am using what ever toyota synthretic they are using. They told me it is good passed 10k. I only have 6k right now. In my 04 runner I use royal purple. No problems.

I'm sticking with the factory oil. I did have my oil changed today at 5000 miles. But, that was just because I didn't want to wait 10k the first time around. I'll stick to 10k over the winter and then 7500 over the summer.
 

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