01-02 Brake Bleeding: Why's it different?

[fourfive]

For those that have an 01-02 4runner, have you tried bleeding the brakes the way the FSM specifies for these years? The bleed order is reversed from traditional methods. Here it is paraphrased from the 2002 FSM:

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON, check that the pump stops after approx. 30 to 40 sec.
3. With the ignition switch remained ON, depress the brake pedal more than 20 times.
4. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left front brake caliper.
5. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left rear brake caliper.​

I haven't found any information on why the FSM recommends this over the traditional method of starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. I'm assuming it has something to do with the hydraulic brake booster that's specific to the 01-02.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], did you come across this information when bleeding the brakes on [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]'s 02?

 

[GoreD]

Good to know I need to replace the master on my 2001 this week.

 

[Nate_GB]

For those that have an 01-02 4runner, have you tried bleeding the brakes the way the FSM specifies for these years? The bleed order is reversed from traditional methods. Here it is paraphrased from the 2002 FSM:

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON, check that the pump stops after approx. 30 to 40 sec.
3. With the ignition switch remained ON, depress the brake pedal more than 20 times.
4. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left front brake caliper.
5. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left rear brake caliper.​

I haven't found any information on why the FSM recommends this over the traditional method of starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. I'm assuming it has something to do with the hydraulic brake booster that's specific to the 01-02.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], did you come across this information when bleeding the brakes on [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]'s 02?

From what I've experienced, the front and rear are independent systems so it really won't matter if you bleed front or rear first. However, I have found that the best bleed is achieved using tech stream to activate the booster/accumulators. Also, replacing the master cylinder assy pretty much requires tech stream to bleed properly.

 

[Road Bull]

Good to know I need to replace the master on my 2001 this week.

Mine has started making abnormal noises on cold start ups. What was going on with yours when it went out? Any long issues, or did it just up and die? Did you find a used one, or what route did you go?

*On topic, That's interesting. It seems like the 01-02's cab be a little bit of a pill sometimes. This will also be on my horizon if I need to replace the MC.

 

[mtbtim]

When we made that brake bleed video, we were using Sean's 2002. I consulted my 2000 FSM and figured we were doing the procedure right by starting with the furthest from the master cylinder, right rear, and working our way closer, going to the left rear, right front and finally left front. We did have the ignition key on to power the brake booster but we didn't follow what you shared from the 2002 FSM.

 

[nissanh]

Did you know the price?

Good to know I need to replace the master on my 2001 this week.

Did you know the price?

 

[gamefreakgc]

From what I've experienced, the front and rear are independent systems so it really won't matter if you bleed front or rear first. However, I have found that the best bleed is achieved using tech stream to activate the booster/accumulators. Also, replacing the master cylinder assy pretty much requires tech stream to bleed properly.

Yeah, the key here is to have the pump active while bleeding.

For reference, I've had the best luck with older brake booster systems that are powered by vacuum only to bleed much faster with the engine on because it "turns on" the booster and applies a lot more pressure to the lines. You don't even have to pump the brakes, just crack the bleeder open, have someone press the brake and close it when all the air is out. It will provide a continuous stream.

 

[fourfive]

This is just based off info I got from google & YouTube but I think the reason for the fsm's specific differences in bleeding sequence for various makes/models/years is based on the position of the abs & how the brake lines run. Doing it the specified way is supposed to make the procedure faster but I think you can technically go in any order, it may just take longer to get all the lines properly bled.

 

[TX4Running]

For those that have an 01-02 4runner, have you tried bleeding the brakes the way the FSM specifies for these years? The bleed order is reversed from traditional methods. Here it is paraphrased from the 2002 FSM:

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF, depress the brake pedal more than 40 times.
2. Turn the ignition switch ON, check that the pump stops after approx. 30 to 40 sec.
3. With the ignition switch remained ON, depress the brake pedal more than 20 times.
4. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left front brake caliper.
5. Holding the brake pedal depressed, bleed the right and left rear brake caliper.​

I haven't found any information on why the FSM recommends this over the traditional method of starting with the caliper furthest from the master cylinder. I'm assuming it has something to do with the hydraulic brake booster that's specific to the 01-02.

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION], did you come across this information when bleeding the brakes on [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION]'s 02?

The FSM states to use this procedure if using the Toyota Hand-held tester. Without using that, I should not pump the brakes 40 times at the beginning, correct? I have a 2001. Do I need the ignition "On" at any point during the bleeding?

I have speed bleeders on but it's been a long time since I personally bled the brakes. Also, the FSM states at the end of bleeding (doesn't mention a tire order in the manual bleeding step 4), for step 5 to pump the brakes more than 40 times, then refill the reservoir. Will this build up pressure and spray when the cap is removed? Thanks.

 

[TX4Running]

Master Cylinder Level Increase

I just finished bleeding the brakes. Turned ignition key to "On" for rears. Somehow the fluid level in the master cylinder increased while doing the first brake (RR) and then again upon doing the final brake (LF). Anyone seen this happen? For the other 2, the level dropped. I had to remove some fluid at the end.