01 4runner cranks but wont start

[19963.4lsr5]

I also asked the Previous owner, and she said it just stopped running while she was driving, so at this point im thinking its a wiring issue for sure, so ill start going through the circuits, and verify the integrity of the wiring.

Usually when that happens the first thing I suspect is the crank sensor failing.


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[98SR5v6]

Did you get it running yet? im having some starting issues also, i got a 98 sr5 v6...car would crank and start then die out immediately, sound like out of gas but i still got half a tank of fuel...giving it gas by stepping on the gas pedal doesnt do anything, no revving when gas pedal is pressed in when cranking up the car

 

[Bad Luck]

Did you get it running yet? im having some starting issues also, i got a 98 sr5 v6...car would crank and start then die out immediately, sound like out of gas but i still got half a tank of fuel...giving it gas by stepping on the gas pedal doesnt do anything, no revving when gas pedal is pressed in when cranking up the car

Check your fuel pressure or replace the fuel pump if you want to throw a part at it without testing

 

[D Farms]

Check your fuel pressure or replace the fuel pump if you want to throw a part at it without testing

I already verified the fuel pump, pumps fine, and already swapped the crank sensor and verified the ecu is reading th rpm.

 

[Bad Luck]

I already verified the fuel pump, pumps fine, and already swapped the crank sensor and verified the ecu is reading th rpm.

That was meant for 98SR5v6 not you bud

 

[spartacus]

Did you check the fuses yet?. Make sure you use a test light or a known good replacement fuse.

 

[D Farms]

Did you check the fuses yet?. Make sure you use a test light or a known good replacement fuse.

yeah i tested continuity on all of them, and the ones that were supposed to be getting voltage were.

 

[98SR5v6]

Did you get it running yet? i have replaced fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and fuel pump and my car would run at a low idle then dies, pressing on gas pedal still causes engine to die out

 

[D Farms]

Did you get it running yet? i have replaced fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter and fuel pump and my car would run at a low idle then dies, pressing on gas pedal still causes engine to die out

Not yet, but I found something. I was looking at the cam pulleys, and noticed they were 1 tooth off from one another. so I took off the rest of the timing covers and found what I think caused the problem. I found lots of rubber dust, like a lot. then I looked at the main pulley, the puller threads were stripped out so I had to use a gear puller. I pulled it off. I rotated the crank to tdc, as per the dimple mark. I looked at the cam pulleys and they were 120 degrees ish past the mark. The belt looks brand new, so I suspect the tensioner was never replaced, and when it failed, it allowed the belt to slip and rub. when the cam shaft and crank shaft sensors didnt match up, the ecu cut power to the igniter.

Speaking of, I was driving my 99 LC to texas a couple weeks ago and the timing belt snapped, while I was about 300 miles away from phoenix, an old buddy who I had met on the forum years ago had to come and haul me back haha.

I will post an update once I finish up the full timing belt service.

 

[D Farms]

Well, I got it started, unfortunately there is what I can only assume is noise from valves or something being damaged. I have another engine that I can swap, but that engine is for my mini truck project. maybe this is a good excuse to get something with more power for the mini truck, like a 1jz.

 

[D Farms]

I noticed the cam position sensor was really close to the reluctor tooth, but I didn't really think much of it. I wonder if its actually rubbing and making the ticking noise.

 

[TravThePro]

I can't remember if that thing is possible to install incorrectly, but you never know what a random mechanic might do during reassembly/ the carnage a loose timing belt can cause.

How is compression looking in each cylinder?

If it tests within spec, the next step will be to check the valve lash and torque of all the cam caps.

There are more things to test but I gotta run to work, good luck!

 

[D Farms]

I can't remember if that thing is possible to install incorrectly, but you never know what a random mechanic might do during reassembly/ the carnage a loose timing belt can cause.

How is compression looking in each cylinder?

If it tests within spec, the next step will be to check the valve lash and torque of all the cam caps.

There are more things to test but I gotta run to work, good luck!

Now that its getting cooler out, checking compression and valve lash is something I can do.

One thing I was thinking is the engine leaks quite a bit of oil, I think it was leaking before the timing belt went, and it leaks a lot on startup, i'm guessing from the pan or maybe the oil cooler or filter. I replaced the front main and cam seals, and the valve covers look clean of oil as well. I guess why I mention this is I dont know if the buckets fill with oil or something like that. Im not familiar with the 5vz head so I dont know where oil is supposed to go or not go.

 

[D Farms]

So the 4runner sat for a while, whilst waiting for parts, and time to work on it. I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and the intake boots. One time I actually couldn't make it over an obstacle because my intake boots had been ripped. when I went to remove the one on the throttle body I hade to cut it off since it ripped apart instead of sliding off.

Anyways, I started the truck and the knock was gone, at least until the idle slowed down, then it came back. any idea what that would indicate?

 

[Bad Luck]

Lower rpm knock makes me think an oiling issue, but I have no direct experience to back that up. More of a hunch than a "I've seen this before and it was _____".