01 SR5 Diff Lock Conundrum

[VGKBlackhawks]

Greetings all! I am so grateful for this site and the 4Runner community at large. My last post describes issues with my CDL inop. In short 4hi/lo with no CDL, light only flashes during 4wd transitions, no response to button:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...-4hi-4lo-but-cdl-inoperative.html#post3355710

I've given up on fixing it myself. I don't have a quote or anything, but this is going to be a costly repair. Option 1: repair CDL. Option 2: have a rear locker (air or e) installed. Option 3: repair both and sell non vital organs on the black market.

Beyond the black market, what do you all think is the better option? It just isn't very capable without the CDL. Other concerns: About 165k on the odometer. Just put waaaaay to much into new suspension/wheels/tires. Frame has rust but is solid (Por-15, but not painted over... learned that after it was done), some pretty significant rocker rust that's been mitigated (rust primer, paint) rear cab mounts. In Nevada now, so less exposure to salt. I just don't know how much more money I want to attach to the truck, but I want it to be more capable (and FUN). Please advise!

Thanks!

 

[thezentree]

Greetings all! I am so grateful for this site and the 4Runner community at large. My last post describes issues with my CDL inop. In short 4hi/lo with no CDL, light only flashes during 4wd transitions, no response to button:

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...-4hi-4lo-but-cdl-inoperative.html#post3355710

I've given up on fixing it myself. I don't have a quote or anything, but this is going to be a costly repair. Option 1: repair CDL. Option 2: have a rear locker (air or e) installed. Option 3: repair both and sell non vital organs on the black market.

Beyond the black market, what do you all think is the better option? It just isn't very capable without the CDL. Other concerns: About 165k on the odometer. Just put waaaaay to much into new suspension/wheels/tires. Frame has rust but is solid (Por-15, but not painted over... learned that after it was done), some pretty significant rocker rust that's been mitigated (rust primer, paint) rear cab mounts. In Nevada now, so less exposure to salt. I just don't know how much more money I want to attach to the truck, but I want it to be more capable (and FUN). Please advise!

Thanks!

Buy a junkyard t-case, rebuild it on the bench, and then swap it in one weekend so you're not out a ride to work.

 

[Bad Luck]

If you do a rear locker then you're still just 2wd for a lot more money. A cheaper option I would try is swapping the transfer case with a junkyard unit. Check out car-part.com to see what's near you. Why are you giving up on diagnosing it?

 

[VGKBlackhawks]

If you do a rear locker then you're still just 2wd for a lot more money. A cheaper option I would try is swapping the transfer case with a junkyard unit. Check out car-part.com to see what's near you. Why are you giving up on diagnosing it?

Hey Bad Luck! Mostly giving up because I have to drive it daily now. After that, I'll admit it's laziness, lack of mechanical ability, tools and help. I'd go the transfer case route, but it sure seems like a control issue versus mechanical due to the lack of flasher during CDL button press and 4hi/lo engage just fine. Could be totally off base there though.

 

[thezentree]

Hey Bad Luck! Mostly giving up because I have to drive it daily now. After that, I'll admit it's laziness, lack of mechanical ability, tools and help. I'd go the transfer case route, but it sure seems like a control issue versus mechanical due to the lack of flasher during CDL button press and 4hi/lo engage just fine. Could be totally off base there though.

Have you done any troubleshooting with the t-case position switches? I haven't had to do that personally, but I did some research when I first got my 4Runner because mine didn't want to shift into 4wd easily (PO never used 4wd). That seemed like a common culprit to the electric t-case problems.

 

[VGKBlackhawks]

Have you done any troubleshooting with the t-case position switches? I haven't had to do that personally, but I did some research when I first got my 4Runner because mine didn't want to shift into 4wd easily (PO never used 4wd). That seemed like a common culprit to the electric t-case problems.

I haven't. I've spent most of my time trying to shoot point to point on the wires, but without tearing things apart I haven't found reliable results. I'll see what I can find on position switches. Do you have any links handy? Thanks for the reply!

 

[VGKBlackhawks]

As posted in the other thread:

*SOLVED* (Not by me)

So I gave up and paid someone to look at the 4Runner.

There was a stowed connector behind the dash that was wired to the 4WD ECU, but it wasn't wired for the CDL switch back light. They rewired the connector for back light, stowed the other connector and all is well!

Slightly embarrassing that I couldn't find the stowed connector, but I'm glad to have a truck that I can take of road. I'd love to know how or why someone did that... the joys of 3rd ownership!

 

[deves2]

glad you got it fixed
You are saying the the center diff lock switch IS lighted??? my dash lights come on but not the switch.

 

[VGKBlackhawks]

glad you got it fixed
You are saying the the center diff lock switch IS lighted??? my dash lights come on but not the switch.

Well... as it was when I bought it, the switch was lit when I turned the lights on. The other wires in that connector are a mystery... I have no idea where they go. The other connector that should have been connected to the CDL switch (was stowed when I bought it... I had no clue it was there) that goes to the 4WD ECU was not wired for lighting, but the guys that fixed it added the backlighting wiring to that connector from the one that was connected to the switch before the repair.

Just to clarify, activating the CDL had no effect on the switch. It's only backlighting when the exterior lights are turned on.

 

[jgue467]

... It just isn't very capable without the CDL. ...

Most on here don't like the center locking diff and prefer rear or in a dream world front too.

Center diff lock just locks the front and rear axles, not wheels side to side. Depending on which front and rear wheels locks a locking center diff can lead to some pretty crazy driving results like many on here talk about.

I think having the front and rear drive wheels in your part of the country is 95% of what the vehicle is capable of in "4wd" mode, the center diff adds little if any value, IMO.

That said, go 4 wheeling and check it out! Enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:

 

[VGKBlackhawks]

You're probably right that it won't make a vast difference, but... The day I took my profile picture, I was doing these slow steep approaches to get some tire rub abatement. These approaches often ended with the left rear tire spinning and me having to back up. I haven't done the same with the CDL operational, but I assume I wouldn't get stuck anymore.
My previous rig was a Nissan Titan 4x4 with factory rear diff locker. Maybe I'm just spoiled from driving that and not having to drive tactically to avoid certain situations. If Toyota went to the trouble to put the CDLs in, they must have some benefit though.
I'm hitting the trail this weekend (can't wait)! I'll let you know how it goes!

 

[Bad Luck]

With the center diff unlocked it acts similar to an AWD system. With the center diff locked it acts as a normal 4wd transfer case where the front and rear driveshafts receive the same amount of power.

 

[T4topher]

With the center diff unlocked it acts similar to an AWD system. With the center diff locked it acts as a normal 4wd transfer case where the front and rear driveshafts receive the same amount of power.

Basically without center locked your technically still in 1wd right? If a front or rear tire comes off the ground that tire will just spin. Where as if you lock the center a front and a rear tire has to come off the ground.

 

[Bad Luck]

Basically without center locked your technically still in 1wd right? If a front or rear tire comes off the ground that tire will just spin. Where as if you lock the center a front and a rear tire has to come off the ground.

That's pretty much how I understand it, but there is a power transfer of sorts. I think it's a 70/30 split. If one axle starts to spin more than the other I think it transfers 30 percent of the power to the axle spinning less. I guess it's more like 1.5 wheel drive whereas in 2wd it's more of a 1 wheel drive (unless you have a rear diff locker).