BrightLight7
New member
After all the researching and information gathering adventures; on and off this forum, I finally gutted out all of the JBL "audio"; if that's what you call it, then replaced everything minus the center channel. So this is my build/experience
First, I'll start with a part list: (I know this is the hardest part for many)
If I forgot anything, I'll update here.
Everything is waiting to be installed here
First how-to I used to remove the back paneling was: How to Remove the Navigation ECU from a 2003 Toyota 4Runner one thing I'll say if they forgot a bolt. When you follow that, right before you are pulling the panel out, don't forget the bolt in the compartment. Pop that cover open and you'll see it. It's in the picture right behind the bolt he is remember with the caption "There's one more bolt to remove. It's here" There is actually two left at that point.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/62400-replaced-jbl-sub-added-amp-install-pics-info.html
Is Ark Swamp Rider's thread about a similar install with the sub and amp, he has pictures about the grinding out the sub box, though with the W3, you'll nee to grind out alot more. Keep that in mind.
So like others on this forum, I kept the stock sub box and just ground out the plastic clips/rows in the sub with a dremel to accommodate the larger magnet. Word of caution here, be VERY CAREFUL, those rises you see in the plastic at the bottom of the clips, they look raised but have nothing under, please flip the sub box over and look at what I'm talking about, they are raised but not level with the rest of the box. I learned the hard way and cut threw the box and had to melt some of the plastic clips and sand it to get fill the hole. :tinfoil3: Big time waster and near heart attack. I also had to create 4 custom spacers to fit under the stock spacer. Then it fit and sealed up fine. Sadly I have no pictures of the box after the dremel did its work.
Once I got the panel off it looked like this:
When I got the sub box out and looked at the sub...this is what I saw:
Totally blown the adhesive off all the way around. Quick fix but not worth it.
Here is a shot of the stock amp all alone:
Sub box removed from the cargo section:*Only few bolts to remove*
Subwoofers side by side comparison
So after that was installed we started thinking about where to put the sub amp; since it was small enough to place in place of the stock amp that was the idea, but the mounting holes didn't wanna work. So we decided a new master plan! Temporarily place it under the driver seat; above the floor air duct, and order a new cargo compartment that's right above the wheel well, that little cubby thing, so we can grind out what we need to place the amp there and have it still concealed inside that compartment. I'll make another thread when we do that, but that's in the works, just need to find that part.
So sub amp goes under driver seat for now, pics:
Sub Amp itself
Sub Amp almost ready where the seat goes over:
JL Power Distro in use:
I'll say now, running the wires under the carpet and matting underneath was a pain in the ass, used the old coat hanger trick with my WHOLE ARM; upto my shoulder, underneath the carpet as well. Going over that middle hump is a royal pain.
So once that was done, it was just leaving the RCA cables from the sub to where the sub amp would be till ready to place the amp. So the rear was done and put back together and fit fine. Though so reason I blew a brake light bulb during this install. Then the next day the other went, dunno about that but just be careful and check all your lights and fuses after this kind of install!
Then came the door speakers, that was the next task. So we removed the door panels; Screw under the door armrest, Screw at the door release handle, remove the door light, and once you do that pop that sucker off. I managed to break NO clips on anything without the use of any popper offer tools, just rip and pull out from the bottom and up at the top. Before pulling door panel totally off, unplug the lock and window plugs, also unscrew the door release from the door; that screw is on the backside of the door panel; philps head. Then viola. Rinse and repeat.
Also, Thanks to TigerTownAlum, when wiring the front doors, you need to remove the two 10mm bolts when running the wire up door frame and into the actual door. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/131863-my-jbl-synthesis-overhaul.html for more info and pics there.
Here is a shot of the Pass door with OEM equip still in
Pass door cleared out:
Pass door with new MB Quart installed
Next plan was once all the door speakers were done was to install the amps.
Well that was easy enough but it was time to run the power cables. The debate was ZERO gauge or FOUR gauge. After already buying 15 feet of Memphis ZERO gauge, I stuck with the Rockford 4 gauge from the amp kit. Why? Well the system wattage I'm running with the 150amp fuse on 4 gauge is safe. It's fine. So if anyone wants the zero gauge, I still have it =)
Here are some shots of the power run and amp setups:
Speaker 4 channel getting ready:
Comparing ZERO to FOUR
**Note: Those hairy beast arms are not my own but they're in fact my best friends**
Battery to firewall grommet with the JL Fusebox:
4 Gauge wire in clips on driver side floor:
Speaker amp ready:
When I did this, I covered the vent with almn foil inside the vent in layers around it then covered the vent in foil itself. The sub amp under the driver side was small enough to fit under the seat and on top of the vent. So no covering was needed there.
To be continued in next post..reached the image limit!
First, I'll start with a part list: (I know this is the hardest part for many)
- JL 8W3V3-4
- Rockford Fosgate RFK4X Amp Kit
- JL JX500/1d Mono Amp
- Pioneer AVH-P4400BH
- Pioneer Parking Brake Bypass
- Pioneer CD-IU200V USB Interface Cable for iPod/iPhone/iPad
- RAM Mount iPad mount
- MB Quart PVL216 6.5 Component Speakers (Front)
- MB Quart ONX116 6.5 Speakers (Rear)
- MB Quart ONX4.80 4 Channel Amp
- Scosche SAT69 Speaker Adapters (Front)
- Scosche EFX ReVo12 12ft RCA
- Monster XLN16S-50SB Speaker Cable
- Pico 1855PT 16-14AWG Flared Vinyl .250 Quick Connect Terminal
- Metra 70-8113 Wiring Harness
- Tweeter Adapters (from mjmautoinnovations off ebay)
- BestKits BKTOYK961 Dash Kit
- JL XB-MFBU-ANL Master Fuse Block
- JL XB-ANL150 Blade Fuse 150 Amp
- Replacement Cabin Air Filter
If I forgot anything, I'll update here.
Everything is waiting to be installed here
First how-to I used to remove the back paneling was: How to Remove the Navigation ECU from a 2003 Toyota 4Runner one thing I'll say if they forgot a bolt. When you follow that, right before you are pulling the panel out, don't forget the bolt in the compartment. Pop that cover open and you'll see it. It's in the picture right behind the bolt he is remember with the caption "There's one more bolt to remove. It's here" There is actually two left at that point.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/62400-replaced-jbl-sub-added-amp-install-pics-info.html
Is Ark Swamp Rider's thread about a similar install with the sub and amp, he has pictures about the grinding out the sub box, though with the W3, you'll nee to grind out alot more. Keep that in mind.
So like others on this forum, I kept the stock sub box and just ground out the plastic clips/rows in the sub with a dremel to accommodate the larger magnet. Word of caution here, be VERY CAREFUL, those rises you see in the plastic at the bottom of the clips, they look raised but have nothing under, please flip the sub box over and look at what I'm talking about, they are raised but not level with the rest of the box. I learned the hard way and cut threw the box and had to melt some of the plastic clips and sand it to get fill the hole. :tinfoil3: Big time waster and near heart attack. I also had to create 4 custom spacers to fit under the stock spacer. Then it fit and sealed up fine. Sadly I have no pictures of the box after the dremel did its work.
Once I got the panel off it looked like this:
When I got the sub box out and looked at the sub...this is what I saw:
Totally blown the adhesive off all the way around. Quick fix but not worth it.
Here is a shot of the stock amp all alone:
Sub box removed from the cargo section:*Only few bolts to remove*
Subwoofers side by side comparison
So after that was installed we started thinking about where to put the sub amp; since it was small enough to place in place of the stock amp that was the idea, but the mounting holes didn't wanna work. So we decided a new master plan! Temporarily place it under the driver seat; above the floor air duct, and order a new cargo compartment that's right above the wheel well, that little cubby thing, so we can grind out what we need to place the amp there and have it still concealed inside that compartment. I'll make another thread when we do that, but that's in the works, just need to find that part.
So sub amp goes under driver seat for now, pics:
Sub Amp itself
Sub Amp almost ready where the seat goes over:
JL Power Distro in use:
I'll say now, running the wires under the carpet and matting underneath was a pain in the ass, used the old coat hanger trick with my WHOLE ARM; upto my shoulder, underneath the carpet as well. Going over that middle hump is a royal pain.
So once that was done, it was just leaving the RCA cables from the sub to where the sub amp would be till ready to place the amp. So the rear was done and put back together and fit fine. Though so reason I blew a brake light bulb during this install. Then the next day the other went, dunno about that but just be careful and check all your lights and fuses after this kind of install!
Then came the door speakers, that was the next task. So we removed the door panels; Screw under the door armrest, Screw at the door release handle, remove the door light, and once you do that pop that sucker off. I managed to break NO clips on anything without the use of any popper offer tools, just rip and pull out from the bottom and up at the top. Before pulling door panel totally off, unplug the lock and window plugs, also unscrew the door release from the door; that screw is on the backside of the door panel; philps head. Then viola. Rinse and repeat.
Also, Thanks to TigerTownAlum, when wiring the front doors, you need to remove the two 10mm bolts when running the wire up door frame and into the actual door. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/131863-my-jbl-synthesis-overhaul.html for more info and pics there.
Here is a shot of the Pass door with OEM equip still in
Pass door cleared out:
Pass door with new MB Quart installed
Next plan was once all the door speakers were done was to install the amps.
Well that was easy enough but it was time to run the power cables. The debate was ZERO gauge or FOUR gauge. After already buying 15 feet of Memphis ZERO gauge, I stuck with the Rockford 4 gauge from the amp kit. Why? Well the system wattage I'm running with the 150amp fuse on 4 gauge is safe. It's fine. So if anyone wants the zero gauge, I still have it =)
Here are some shots of the power run and amp setups:
Speaker 4 channel getting ready:
Comparing ZERO to FOUR
**Note: Those hairy beast arms are not my own but they're in fact my best friends**
Battery to firewall grommet with the JL Fusebox:
4 Gauge wire in clips on driver side floor:
Speaker amp ready:
When I did this, I covered the vent with almn foil inside the vent in layers around it then covered the vent in foil itself. The sub amp under the driver side was small enough to fit under the seat and on top of the vent. So no covering was needed there.
To be continued in next post..reached the image limit!
opcorn:
