'04 4Runner Engine won't rev after battery died

[Heerefishyfish]

So first let me say that I

 

[CJ3Flyr]

So first let me say that I

 

[Heerefishyfish]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the quick response.

Just to clarify, when you say disconnect the battery, do you mean disconnect it from the car, or disconnect the jumper cables to the Pilot?

I've had the jumper cables off for a while now, so I just want to make sure we're on the same page.

Thanks!

 

[banker1]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for the quick response.

Just to clarify, when you say disconnect the battery, do you mean disconnect it from the car, or disconnect the jumper cables to the Pilot?

I've had the jumper cables off for a while now, so I just want to make sure we're on the same page.

Thanks!

Disconnect it from the car, unhook the negative wire and leave it off for a minute or two, then reconnect. I assume you've let the car idle long enough for the battery to recharge a bit (enough for a restart).

As mentioned above, restart the car do not touch the gas and it should be back in working order. Follow the directions above to reset the windows.

Good luck.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Disconnect it from the car, unhook the negative wire and leave it off for a minute or two, then reconnect. I assume you've let the car idle long enough for the battery to recharge a bit (enough for a restart).

As mentioned above, restart the car do not touch the gas and it should be back in working order. Follow the directions above to reset the windows.

Good luck.

x2 :iagree: That's what I meant. I have never read a time spec for the T4R. I know some vehicles need up to 8 minutes to reset (older Fords). I might wait a little longer than a minute or two just 'cause I don't know for sure. banker1 may very well be 100% correct, a minute or two may be fine.

 

[banker1]

x2 :iagree: That's what I meant. I have never read a time spec for the T4R. I know some vehicles need up to 8 minutes to reset (older Fords). I might wait a little longer than a minute or two just 'cause I don't know for sure. banker1 may very well be 100% correct, a minute or two may be fine.

I disconnected my battery once to load a hybrid 5.1/ 6.1 Nav disk and a minute or two was all it took for me (had to reset the radio presets, time, windows). As CJ3Flyr mentioned, it might not hurt to leave the battery disconnected longer if you're trying to reset the internal computer. What's an extra few minutes in the grand scheme of things anyway right?

 

[CJ3Flyr]

I disconnected my battery once to load a hybrid 5.1/ 6.1 Nav disk and a minute or two was all it took for me (had to reset the radio presets, time, windows). As CJ3Flyr mentioned, it might not hurt to leave the battery disconnected longer if you're trying to reset the internal computer. What's an extra few minutes in the grand scheme of things anyway right?

Absolutely, :iagree: on presets, windows etc... Older Fords (or was it Chryslers?) would retain the ECM and transmission memory for some longer period of time. The radio, clock etc would lose it instantly.

I don't know if the ECM on the T4R behaves like that or not... Oh well, either way Heerefishyfish should be a happy camper in just a few minutes

:cheers:

 

[Heerefishyfish]

Thanks for all the responses guys. Battery is disconnected now.

I'll let you know how it turns out.

 

[Heerefishyfish]

So, I tried the method of unhooking the negative cable and letting the car sit. I actually forgot about the battery, and it sat for a good 20 minutes.

When I turned the car back on... no luck - the accelerator won't do its job and the auto power windows won't automatically roll down.

Have I missed a step somewhere along the way?

 

[jrrossiman]

I experienced the same thing this last weekend when the weather dropped down below 30f. I took the battery out and had it load tested. Fine (they say) When I attempted to jumpstart it because it was in fact dead, it ran really rough- like half power. I replaced the battery and it works great. I was told that if the battery in fact had a bad cell.. electronics may be affected.

It works good now- I still don't know why when they load tested the battery, it was good. ??????????

Hope you have the same type of luck as I.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

So, I tried the method of unhooking the negative cable and letting the car sit. I actually forgot about the battery, and it sat for a good 20 minutes.

When I turned the car back on... no luck - the accelerator won't do its job and the auto power windows won't automatically roll down.

Have I missed a step somewhere along the way?

Again, forget about the windows, that's no big deal.

On the throttle: I have no idea. A faulty battery may be the culprit. Perhaps you are going through what jrrossiman had... That may be the best advice so far.

If you have someone with and OBD-II code reader get them to pull a code, note it and then clear it. Try it and see if clearing the code does it; that's the only other thing I can suggest.

If that fails then have it flatbedded to the stealer I guess.

I hate it for you Happy New Years though. Hopefully this will be you're entire dose of car troubles for 2009

:cheers:

 

[kimboy]

Is the battery still showing a blue color as indicated by the label on the top?

 

[Mike07SE]

The simple minute or two of the cables disconnected may not be enough for the ECU to reset. When you take you're cables OFF, touch the positive and negative cable's together for a few seconds to drain any residual power in the system and let it stand for ten minutes. Before hooking back up to the battery, touch the cables again for a few seconds. If non of this works in being able to reset the ECU, it's something more involved where you'll have to get a hold of the dealer and see if they have to do any re-initializing of the system.

 

[borgzman]

The simple minute or two of the cables disconnected may not be enough for the ECU to reset. When you take you're cables OFF, touch the positive and negative cable's together for a few seconds to drain any residual power in the system and let it stand for ten minutes. Before hooking back up to the battery, touch the cables again for a few seconds. If non of this works in being able to reset the ECU, it's something more involved where you'll have to get a hold of the dealer and see if they have to do any re-initializing of the system.

Yes, "discharge" those PCB mounted condensers/capacitors that may be acting like a batt enough to power up a sytem clock. I remember I have to discharge a cellphone board first, before doing a flash. It solves many software and system memory problems. It may have similarity to the ECU

also, relays(if there is) don't discharge that easy by just disconnecting the cables, you need to short ckt..

Edit: don't have experience doing that in cars but its basic when doing a complete reset..digital components don't require high current to stay in a "state of confusion"

 

[04 sc V8]

I know that some older GM vehicles go into battery correction mode when the ECU sees less than 10 volts. This lets the vehicle start but won't operate properly to protect the ECU. If the battery doesnt have enough current to start the vehicle on it's own maybe the ECU is sensing this and doing something similar. I would try a known good battery and see if the problem continues.