04 4Runner no crank

Johnny04

New member
I have a 2004 4Runner Limited V8. When I went to start it there was no crank. The battery appears to be fine as everything else works (ie: stereo, headlights, etc.). I tried jumping it twice too, just in case, and got nothing. I also tried shifting it into different gears then back to Park to make sure it was indeed in Park.

Is there anything that this could be besides a bad starter? Perhaps a bad fuse? Or anything little that would be an easy check and fix before replacing the starter?

Thanks for your help,
Johnny
 
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I have a 2004 4Runner Limited V8. When I went to start it there was no crank. The battery appears to be fine as everything else works (ie: stereo, headlights, etc.). I tried jumping it twice too, just in case, and got nothing. I also tried shifting it into different gears then back to Park to make sure it was indeed in Park.

Is there anything that this could be besides a bad starter? Perhaps a bad fuse? Or anything little that would be an easy check and fix before replacing the starter?

Thanks for your help,
Johnny
 
I have a 2004 4Runner Limited V8. When I went to start it there was no crank. The battery appears to be fine as everything else works (ie: stereo, headlights, etc.). I tried jumping it twice too, just in case, and got nothing. I also tried shifting it into different gears then back to Park to make sure it was indeed in Park.

Is there anything that this could be besides a bad starter? Perhaps a bad fuse? Or anything little that would be an easy check and fix before replacing the starter?

Thanks for your help,
Johnny
 
How many miles, at 90k it is preventative to replace the starter contacts on the V8. Furthermore, timing belt, water pump should be replace proactively as they are common to fail after that point.

I can almost guarantee that it is starter contacts....keep us posted.
 
Mine only has 50K miles on it. I'm pretty novice when it comes to this, especially on more modern vehicles...Any more advice on what I should check before throwing in the towel and getting a tow?

Thanks,
Johnny
 
Johnny04 said:
I have a 2004 4Runner Limited V8. When I went to start it there was no crank. The battery appears to be fine as everything else works (ie: stereo, headlights, etc.). I tried jumping it twice too, just in case, and got nothing. I also tried shifting it into different gears then back to Park to make sure it was indeed in Park.

Is there anything that this could be besides a bad starter? Perhaps a bad fuse? Or anything little that would be an easy check and fix before replacing the starter?

Thanks for your help,
Johnny
The first place I would look is the battery cables.
 
How long was the jumper cables hooked up for? If it's a weak battery, sometimes the accessories can run but it doesn't have enough amps to turn the engine over. On one of my old cars with a weak battery, the lights and everything else will work but the engine will not turn over. Even when attempting to jump it, it doesn't start right away. I have to rev the booster car to about 1500RPMs for a couple minutes before the other car will start.

I suggest getting a battery load test done first.
 
Re: Multiple Threads Merged

jharris2 said:

lol

Anyways, check your battery again for corrosions or maybe cables are loose.

If not then:

- When you switch the ignition ON before starting the car the "Check engine" light supposed to come ON indicating that engine computer is powered. If you won't see the "Check engine" light when you turn the ignition ON, it's possible that there is no power coming to the engine computer. It might be a broken wire or faulty relay or burnt fuse, etc.

- If you don't hear the cranking sound when you're trying to start your car, means that starter doesn't work - something could be wrong with the starter, starter wires, relay, or the battery is dead.

- On most newer vehicles with fuel injection, when you switch ignition ON the engine computer runs a fuel pump for a few seconds to pump initial gas pressure. You can hear it from the gas tank area - it's like a buzzing sound. It's not very loud and the gas pump works only for a second or two after switching the ignition ON, so you may need someone's assistance checking this. If there is no buzzing sound, something might be wrong with the fuel pump or its electrical circuit - bring your vehicle to the garage or a dealer.

- If you drove over a puddle, just before your vehicle died, the water could shorten the ignition wires. Switch the ignition off, open the hood and check the spark plugs wires, distributor and spark plug caps. They shouldn't be wet.

If they are wet, turn the ignition off. With the ignition off, dry the ignition wires, distributor and spark plug caps with a clean rag or tissue. Now try to start engine with fully pressed accelerator pedal because your engine may be flooded with gas.
 
Mike's focus on the battery and cables is where I'd start too.

What's important to understand is that corroded terminals or a bad battery can allow enough power to flow to run the radio, headlights, dash lights etc and not start the engine. Unless you are using expensive, heavy pro-grade jumper cables they may not help.

When you crank do the dash lights go out or very dim? Turn on the reading light and watch that. It should dim some but not much. If they go out I'd stay focused on battery/cables.

If you have adequate battery/power the contacts in the starter or neutral safety switch would be next on my list.

Good luck!


:cheers:
 
Yes... for a 2004, its just there in the battery and cables.

I always have this Rechargeable "Portable Power" or Jumpstarter in my vehicle. Like this: http://www.autozone.com/R,1221023/store,/shopping/accessoryProductDetail.htm
At first, my purpose was just to charge GPS and cellphones or MP3 players while leaving your vehicle parked. When the same thing happen, won't start, no crank, interior lights and stereo still ok. I just opened the hood and do the connection with the "jumpstarter" then swoosh!!..hear the sound of the V8:)

If you still have the Panasonic battery, that could be dead by this time. Get a battery with same or higher Cold Cranking Amps as the one installed. If you will let Toyota replace your batt, demand for the Tundra/LC batt with higher CCA for $5 difference in price. They will usually install the Truestart batt.
 
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2004 4- runner no crank - battery ok

I have had this 'NO CRANK" condition occur many times. upon returning to the truck after a period of time or overnight the starting system seems to have reset. First the battery and charging system test good. All cable connections are clean and secure. My first thought was a bad neutral safety switch, since the symptom was very similar. Yet by letting the car sit, normal restart occurred eventually.
This was confusing until I noted the status for the immobilizer system icon while this symptom was occurring. Specifically, with the key removed the icon was NOT flashing. This basically indicates the immobilizer system is not currently activated. By insuring that the immobilizer indicating light is on, system is normal, the key is out of the ignition, the engine should start normally. The NO CRANK condition exists only when the key is turned to start when the icon was NOT flashing prior to inserting the key into the ignition.
To set the immobilizer system, turn the ignition key to the lock position and remove it. The indicator light will start flashing when the key is removed. The system is CANCELED when any door or hood is open or unlocked. If in doubt reset the system - insert key and return to locked and out position.
This has solved the problem for my 4-runner no crank condition, hope this helps.
 
similar problem on different car

So this might not be relevant but i figured it might help so I'm going to say it. I had a 99 camaro that had a problem like this. The battery was fine, The starter was fine, but the ignition switch / part you stick your key into was bad. I was able to start the car if i tried putting the key in, try to crank, take it out,...Repeat. after like 20 tries the car would start.

Just a suggestion though. If you determine that the starter is fine, id look at the ignition switch next.

:cheers:
 
Was this issue ever solved? I'm experiencing the same issue on an 06' V6 4Runner and I've verified the following

Battery at 13V
All ACC, IG1, IG2, ST signals being sent to ECU
At Starter Relay I'm seeing 13V Battery on Pin 5, and 6.50V at Pin 1 from ECU when cranking (ALLDATA says 6V+ is good signal from ECU)

Ground wire OHM checked good
Positive cable checked good

Pulled entire harness from battery to starter, scuffed connections, OHM checked good

Replaced starter and relay still nothing....

Any input would be greatly appreciated as I feel I'm missing something obvious here.

All lights, radio, locks, ac, fuel pump works just no crank

When key is cranked to start position lights to not dim, relay doesn't click, and vehicle does not start....
 
Was this issue ever solved? I'm experiencing the same issue on an 06' V6 4Runner and I've verified the following

Battery at 13V
All ACC, IG1, IG2, ST signals being sent to ECU
At Starter Relay I'm seeing 13V Battery on Pin 5, and 6.50V at Pin 1 from ECU when cranking (ALLDATA says 6V+ is good signal from ECU)

Ground wire OHM checked good
Positive cable checked good

Pulled entire harness from battery to starter, scuffed connections, OHM checked good

Replaced starter and relay still nothing....

Any input would be greatly appreciated as I feel I'm missing something obvious here.

All lights, radio, locks, ac, fuel pump works just no crank

When key is cranked to start position lights to not dim, relay doesn't click, and vehicle does not start....


Mmmm...I would check exactly what the comment above you states....as another option since everything else you say is fine.

And when you say ground wire...are you talking about the 5-6" one from battery to panel?
 
starting problems

Hi,
I am a new member and can't post new threads, and as I have a similar problem I have decided to post it here. I hope that's ok, as it is URGENT!

About a year ago I have bought a car in Chile to travel around south america for a while. The car is 2004 Toyota 4runner V6 with automatic transmission, 365.000 km.

For the last week or so I am experiencing a problem with starting the car. Usually in the day the car starts just fine, ok sometimes it happens that it hesitates for a second or two, but it always starts. After I drive it, 15 minutes or 4 hours doesn't matter, I park it. Then after I get back to the car, it again doesn't matter for how long it has been sitting, sometimes it doesnt start. I put the key in, turn it and all the lights go on as normal, but then it doesn't start. It doesn't even make a sound, no click, nothing. The key just turns silently in the ignition. It always starts after few minutes, after I have played with fuses and relays for a while, but don't know if this really helped or not. It also always starts the next day. Once when it didn't work we have tried to jump start it connected with cables to another car but it did not start, so I guess it could not be the battery. The car has never died while running.
The battery is about two years old, and in those two years, the car did around 100.000 km. I did not have it checked, but everything else works fine – lights, radio, headights...
I have checked all the fuses, and could not find any blown. But I have discovered, that according to the drawing on the fuse box, some of the fuses don't correspond to the right power: DR\LOK is 15A (instead 20), EFI 15A(20), ETCS 20A(10) A\F HEATER 20A(15).
I also don't know if the black marks on the contact side of STA relay are normal – see picture.
The starter was rebuild 30.000 km ago, so I guess this should not be the issue either.
I did have a check engine light about 1500 km ago. After a scanner check I have changed spark plugs and everything was ok.
Now I am currently in Bolivia, and that's the urgent part ;) A local guy came to check the car with a scanner (it was a small, cheap looking scanner) and could not connect to the car's computer. Afterwards he said I should go to the bigger garage to get it checked by a proper scanner so they can check the ECU, but that it would be expensive (160 $). Amongst the probable causes he listed (without checking the car at all): ECU (800 $), some senzors or some wires.
I did not pay attention to the car imobillizer system, how it acts when this happens. It does have aftermarket alarm installed, but just for the function of remote control nothing else.
When I switch ignition to ON, the check engine light does come on, I also think I can hear the fuel pump working at the start.

But as I am in a country where you can't really trust local mechanics I am in a need of help. Where and how to start with the diagnosis, so I don't start throwing parts in to car which could be expensive and hard to get here, or with visiting to many local mecanics.
I must also mention that the environment here for the last 2-3 months is really dry – no rain. And the problem started to appear after spending time for the last month more or less in a desert, really dry, sandy and windy. Some of the time at a very high altitude – 4000 to 5000m (13.000 to 16.400 feet). Don't know if this has anything to do with it.
Oh, and of course I am not really a car guy ;( .

Because of my current location the situation is urgent and I would really appreciate your help. Thank you so much!

gUtcR
 
Could really use some advice my 4th Gen is doing this

My alternator went so I replaced it. Now I turn the key and get nothing all the lights are on with plenty of electrical power there's just no crank no start. The fuel pump makes no sound however I know the pump is good. Any advice would be appreciated
 
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My 4 runner is a little rusty, going to be doing some body work on it this spring. I am looking at other 4 runners to buy pieces and parts from. I am just wondering between what years i should be look...

Please advice guyz
 
I would replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. If it's bad it wont allow the computer to signal the injectors to push fuel. After 700.00 chasing what the mechanics told me, I figured it out and it only cost 22.00 and 5 minutes with a wrench.
 

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