15a fuse blowing... also won’t start.

Did you check the fusible links might be blown. you have to pull the fuse box out of the housing to replace those. In the middle of [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] video on you tube he shows how to pull the fuse box out.
YouTube

I replaced the 100 ALT fusible link yesterday. Still no change.

I'm going to change the ABS one tonight. But honestly, I don't know much about this stuff, so I'm not sure if this could be my problem if it is bad.
 
Wouldnt the rig start though if only the dome circuits were out?

I am wondering if the reverse polarity took out the ECM as to why it work start.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

Here's the thing, it ran after the possible cable switch. I drove it for several days. It wasn't until I drove it into my garage to tried to nail down this electrical issue with the lights / stereo / door locks that it wouldn't start. Worried I pulled something and can't track it down.
 
Sounds like it started for a while, then stopped after some debugging.

The diagrams don't have a unified drawing that shows what goes through wire harness connectors, or the debugging would be easier...

-Charlie

Yeah it ran for a while after the incident. Wasn't until I started going down this rabbit hole testing and unplugging that it wouldn't start.

I've been using this nifty resource for diagrams
96-02 Toyota 4Runner Factory Service Repair Manual
 
Oh, my old parts truck was a '97 V6 4WD and I have a few of the parts that may be bad on your truck in the garage and I otherwise have no use for them...

Turn signals not working could just be the flasher relay.

-Charlie
 
The 1A connector has on it:

1 - G-Y, RH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
2 - G-B, LH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
3 - empty
4 - G, 20A Wiper fuse power to power window relay
5 - B-W, LH rear door courtesy switch
6 - G, back window control switch illumination power
7 - empty
8 - B, power output to rear window defogger from defogger relay
9 - empty
10- empty

Which is odd, since none of those seem related to your current problem?

-Charlie

Maybe I'm wrong about which one it actually is. I'm pulling the one on the top left. In every diagram I've found, that's 1A. It's the one on the left just beneath the black thingamajig (ha!) Could be 1E? Not sure. Just going off these diagrams.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivio/1996%20to%202002%20Toyota%204Runner%20Repair%20and%20Wiring%20Manuals/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf

But in every diagram it appears to be sideways. Mine isn't.
 
put jumper cables on a dead battery in reverse,, PCM is a failure.

So for members following this screw up , you put the jumper cable on the engine block on both vehicles ... then put the positive cable on the battery positive terminal.

battery drain can be a dead battery. another cause can be a interior lamp stays on .use a clamp on current meter current should be less than 20 ma .. if its above 200MA then pull fuses to find out what circuit is the cause.

junk yard PCM is cheap but you must put the proper PCM for your model year and vehicle..

door locks have diodes so because the jumper cables were reversed then the diode will short out.
door locks have coils and the diode stops the spike surge when the lock operates..
ac compressor clutch has a diode also .. relays also have diodes across the relay coil.
this could be a very expensive mess..

that is why I clamp on the jumper ground cable to the engine block ..

Hopefully it's not busted. I have a feeling it's something one of you could knock out in an hour and I'm just not experienced enough to track it down.

I pull one plug behind the fuse box on the driver side, and the 15a Dome fuses won't blow. I believe it's 1A, but I could be wrong as the only diagram I can find is for a 2002 and I have a 97.
 
You are kind of conflating two problems if you have a parasitic drain thats one problem if you have a idea what it is disable that item or leg (pull the bulb or the fuse) This will stop the battery drain. As long as the item is not part of the running circuit cut it out and don't worry about it for now.

Then go back to my previous comment and determine if it is spark or fuel. If you don't you will be running in circles instead of narrowing the problem. If you have the manual there is a diagnosis tic flow chart to follow.

There are many reasons why a engine won't start but it starts. If it cranks and has compression then you look at fuel and spark (as said before)

If no fuel you look at pump, or the fuel injection system (but you don't know)

Spark ECM, Timing belt, crank sensor, ect (but you don't know)

:boom:
 
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You are kind of conflating two problems if you have a parasitic drain thats one problem if you have a idea what it is disable that item or leg (pull the bulb or the fuse) This will stop the battery drain. As long as the item is not part of the running circuit cut it out and don't worry about it for now.

Then go back to my previous comment and determine if it is spark or fuel. If you don't you will be running in circles instead of narrowing the problem. If you have the manual there is a diagnosis tic flow chart to follow.

There are many reasons why a engine won't start but it starts. If it cranks and has compression then you look at fuel and spark (as said before)

If no fuel you look at pump, or the fuel injection system (but you don't know)

Spark ECM, Timing belt, crank sensor, ect (but you don't know)

:boom:

Not sure about the parasitic drain. It was what I suspected before my brother borrowed the car. My truck sat for several weeks and wouldn't start. I got it jumped and it ran fine. He borrowed it and that's when I believe he crossed the cables.

It started fine after the incident but then I had all of the fuse issues. I drove it for several days just fine and then pulled it in the garage to see about the continuous Dome fuse blowing. Then all of a sudden it wouldn't start. I'll go back through your list tomorrow and try your tests as far as getting it started.
 
pull the spark plug wire on the driver side front cylinder being careful not to damage the wire. place a screw driver that fits inside and touches where the plug clips in and stays there even if you have to use a little electric tap to make sure it keeps contact. Now place any metal part of the screw driver with in 1/4 inch from any metal on the engine then have some one crank the engine over for 5 seconds at a time and see if there is if there is a spark that happens. If there is a spark good if not electrical is the problem.

You could also try taking off the air horn open the throttle plates by hand and take about 1/8 cup or less of gas ( a good splash ) and toss it in. Re attach the air horn and turn the engine over. If it runs for about 3 sec then the you are looking at a fuel problem like a bad fuel pump if it does not then the secondary electrical (spark plugs, coils , ECM computer maybe bad)

These two test can give you a place to start to start to see what part of the system has the problem.:banana:

Just re-read what you wrote. I know exactly what you're talking about. My uncle and I did the "gas" test before. But I believe we used starter fluid. And I changed the plugs and ignition coils within the last year, I can handle the spark test. Thanks for the tips.
 
Is your fuse panel like the one in the schematic you post?
If so your not pulling 1a. The drawing showing the connectors on the back is rolled over to the right. In the upper left corner of the back would be the power relay.

You need to detail exactly what you did to the vehicle after you pulled it into the garage. Step by step in detail.
Your posts are so all over the place it took folks 2 pages to realize you drove the rig after you suspect your brother damaged it. And it seems you have 2 threads going for the same issue.


This is what I gathered:
#1: You had to jump your rig to get it to start one day.
#2: You loaned your rig to your brother and he had to jump it as well.
#3: You got your rig back and lots of fuses were blown including the 100A ALT fusible link.
#4: You replaced the ALT link and other fuses and drove your rig for a few days.
#5: At some point presumably after #3 the 15A (dome?) fuse would blow instantly.
#6: You parked you rig in the garage and started pulling stuff apart.
#7: After step #6 the vehicle will not start.
#8: You have determined that pulling the upper left connector from the back of the fuse panel driver side dash stops the 15A (dome) fuse from blowing.

Questions:
At step 2 did your brother ever get the rig running?
At step 3 what exact fuses were blown and in what fuse boxes?
Can we assume these are the same fuses replaced in step 4?
Step 5 seems cut and dry, but you’ve stated “15 amp fuses”, plural. How many and what fuses currently blow provided the mystery connector is connected?
In step 6, please detail exactly what you did step by step.

We can help you, but you need to be clear and detailed. Try not to include speculation and assumption. Just tell us exactly what you know and exactly what the symptoms are. Don’t leave any details out. Something you regard as unimportant could be very important.
 
Maybe I'm wrong about which one it actually is. I'm pulling the one on the top left. In every diagram I've found, that's 1A. It's the one on the left just beneath the black thingamajig (ha!) Could be 1E? Not sure. Just going off these diagrams.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivio/1996%20to%202002%20Toyota%204Runner%20Repair%20and%20Wiring%20Manuals/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/ewdtmc2/ewdtmpdf/ewdsourc/2002/024runne/relayloc/relayloc.pdf

But in every diagram it appears to be sideways. Mine isn't.
The '97 wiring is COMPLETELY different from the '02 wiring. Ignore those diagrams...

edit: How many pins, how many wires and what colors are those wires on the connector you are removing?

-Charlie
 
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The '97 wiring is COMPLETELY different from the '02 wiring. Ignore those diagrams...

edit: How many pins, how many wires and what colors are those wires on the connector you are removing?

-Charlie

Here is the '97 Relay locations chapter. OP, please verify which plug you have been pulling and we'll go from there. PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you the whole thing.

My thought is the integration relay could suffer from a reverse jump attempt. It's an expensive little beast, so let's see if we can figure a way to rule it out.
 

Attachments

Here is the '97 Relay locations chapter. OP, please verify which plug you have been pulling and we'll go from there. PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you the whole thing.

My thought is the integration relay could suffer from a reverse jump attempt. It's an expensive little beast, so let's see if we can figure a way to rule it out.
He has the complete 1997 EWD. :) So now Charlie and TheDurk can help him find the causes. I think he doing excellent for not having a background in electrical that we have. Wiring diagrams can look like a foreign language at first until folks learn how to read them. :)

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
 
The 1A connector has on it:

1 - G-Y, RH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
2 - G-B, LH turn signal indicator power to gauge cluster
3 - empty
4 - G, 20A Wiper fuse power to power window relay
5 - B-W, LH rear door courtesy switch
6 - G, back window control switch illumination power
7 - empty
8 - B, power output to rear window defogger from defogger relay
9 - empty
10- empty

Which is odd, since none of those seem related to your current problem?

-Charlie

I was wrong. [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] sent me the full manual for my 97. It was actually 1J that I was pulling to stop the Dome fuse from blowing.
 
Here is the '97 Relay locations chapter. OP, please verify which plug you have been pulling and we'll go from there. PM me an e-mail address and I'll send you the whole thing.

My thought is the integration relay could suffer from a reverse jump attempt. It's an expensive little beast, so let's see if we can figure a way to rule it out.

Ah Hello [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]!

I was incorrect before. [MENTION=28842]Brillo[/MENTION]_67 sent me the full manual. I was actually pulling 1J to stop the Dome fuse from blowing. I was following your previous posts which included 2002 relay locations.
 

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