16x8 Pro Comp Steelies on 2001 SR5

[andyo]

Photo #1: Rub marks on the caliper after wheels were initially mounted then removed due to rubbing and vibration. I think the vibration was from using the stock lugs from Toyota and not standard lugs. Not 100% on that. I did have some standard lugs that I was able to scrounge up and they drastically reduced the vibration when I changed them out from the stock lugs. Only had 8 so I could only do one wheel.

Photo #2: Shows where the inside of the wheel was rubbing on the caliper. Maybe shaved off a 1/16" to an 1/8" from each D-window? Rubbed right at the center of the curve in the so the clear coat that I had applied to the entire wheel was removed at those spots. Sorry for the blurry photo.

Photo #3: Shows that there's virtually no space between the caliper and wheel. I don't think they're rubbing anymore b/c after a test drive around the block a few times neither the wheel or caliper had generated any heat from friction but were actually cool to the touch. I couldn't even slip a piece of paper between them if I tried that's how close they are.

Comments? Questions? Potential issues I'm not thinking of?

 

[andyo]

bump - anyone see any issues with the caliper/wheel clearance...or lack thereof?

 

[carp73]

I chose to go with the aluminum procomp wheels over the steelies after reading about a lot of people having clearance issues with the calipers. It seems from what I read a while back that the two options to fit the steel wheels are grind the caliper a little (don't grind the wheel) or use spacers. From what I saw it is a common issue with those wheels though

 

[carp73]

Here are a couple of photos I took over the weekend. I'll still need to get some standard lugs on the 2 rear and front driver's side.

I won't be driving it until that happens and then I have a professional look at it.

Any auto parts store should stock sets of standard (tapered) lug nuts in the m12x1.5 size you need

 

[andyo]

I got these wheels through my work, so I saved a ton of money compared to aluminum wheels. I also haven't found anything online about the calipers and wheels rubbing. Spacers unfortunately seem a little sketchy and won't pass safety insp. in PA from what I'm told.

 

[carp73]

I got these wheels through my work, so I saved a ton of money compared to aluminum wheels. I also haven't found anything online about the calipers and wheels rubbing. Spacers unfortunately seem a little sketchy and won't pass safety insp. in PA from what I'm told.

Nice I do like the look of the steel wheels. I found a couple threads on the issue back when I was doing research. Maybe they were on yotatech

 

[Friday88]

Photo #1: Rub marks on the caliper after wheels were initially mounted then removed due to rubbing and vibration. I think the vibration was from using the stock lugs from Toyota and not standard lugs. Not 100% on that. I did have some standard lugs that I was able to scrounge up and they drastically reduced the vibration when I changed them out from the stock lugs. Only had 8 so I could only do one wheel.

Photo #2: Shows where the inside of the wheel was rubbing on the caliper. Maybe shaved off a 1/16" to an 1/8" from each D-window? Rubbed right at the center of the curve in the so the clear coat that I had applied to the entire wheel was removed at those spots. Sorry for the blurry photo.

Photo #3: Shows that there's virtually no space between the caliper and wheel. I don't think they're rubbing anymore b/c after a test drive around the block a few times neither the wheel or caliper had generated any heat from friction but were actually cool to the touch. I couldn't even slip a piece of paper between them if I tried that's how close they are.

Comments? Questions? Potential issues I'm not thinking of?

My pro comp 52 rock crawler style wheels rubbed the exact same way. I ordered a set of 3/16" (.1875") aluminum spacers on amazon for $20 and it solved that problem. I don't think its safe to have a wheel rubbing on something like that, especially at higher speeds so consider putting a small spacer in there.

 

[Friday88]

This post from Friday88 earlier in this thread I've found to be pretty accurate for the 285 tire on the 8" wheel in relation to the fender flares:

Here is the full document if your interested. I just installed 285's on 8" Pro comp wheels with 4.25 backspacing and it looks pretty close. tough to really say because my panhard bar is pushing my rear axle right slightly, and my front wheels now have spacers behind them.


OME 881 with 1/2" spacer up front and OME Struts
landcruiser springs (7.5 wrap I think) in back with OME shocks
285/75/16 Falken All terrains
16x8 4.25 BS Pro Comp Series 52 Rock Crawler Wheels
Wheels rubber brakes so I'm using 3/16" Spacers

 

[andyo]

Looks great!

I actually took a regular old file to the outside of my calipers and some of the rubbing was fixed. The inside of the wheels shredded the edges of the D-windows but hey, whatever.

 

[andyo]

Also forgot to mention a major part, I have some rubbing on my running boards on tight turns so I'll need to dremel the corners a tiny bit. Still drivable.

 

[Friday88]

Also forgot to mention a major part, I have some rubbing on my running boards on tight turns so I'll need to dremel the corners a tiny bit. Still drivable.

Just get rid of them lol

 

[andyo]

Just upped to 1/4" spacers. No visual difference but a little more clearance to be safe.

 

[Jntrang]

I run 51 Series with 2mm spacer in the front. Runs great and no issue.

 

[kbiela]

Also forgot to mention a major part, I have some rubbing on my running boards on tight turns so I'll need to dremel the corners a tiny bit. Still drivable.

Looks great. Is this with the tundra brakes though? and if so what size did you go with?

 

[andyo]

Looks great. Is this with the tundra brakes though? and if so what size did you go with?

Thanks!

No, this is with the stock brake setup.