1988 3.0 Replacement - Gonna Give It a Try!!

D

Don Slater

New member
Good Afternoon Everyone -

I am fairly new to the forum and am looking for a little help.

I bought a 1988 4Runner 3.0 for my son to use as his first car. Well, that is the good news, he bad news is that cylinder 5 is bad and we have diagnosed that it is likely a valve. So, we have decided to source a rebuilt 3.0 and swap the engine out especially since we do not know the history of the engine and the odometer is 322k - not likely all on this engine, but much of it judging by condition.

So, that brings me to a silly question - we have been researching steps to remove and install e inline and have not been able to find a 'great' thread with simple step by step process to follow. We are not completely mechanically incompetent, just would like to find a simple process to follow so that we are certain we get all the steps right in the proper order. Can anybody point me in the right direction of a post that has already covered this or ??

The manual is fine, but we prefer more of a 'layman's' language step by step.

Can you help??

Best - Don
 
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wow no small order

take everything off as you come to it
take pictures
label stuff
draw it
make a list of needs as you go.
dont get derailed.
assembly is reverse order.
next ?
 
Don Slater said:
Good Afternoon Everyone -

I am fairly new to the forum and am looking for a little help.

I bought a 1988 4Runner 3.0 for my son to use as his first car. Well, that is the good news, he bad news is that cylinder 5 is bad and we have diagnosed that it is likely a valve. So, we have decided to source a rebuilt 3.0 and swap the engine out especially since we do not know the history of the engine and the odometer is 322k - not likely all on this engine, but much of it judging by condition.

So, that brings me to a silly question - we have been researching steps to remove and install e inline and have not been able to find a 'great' thread with simple step by step process to follow. We are not completely mechanically incompetent, just would like to find a simple process to follow so that we are certain we get all the steps right in the proper order. Can anybody point me in the right direction of a post that has already covered this or ??

The manual is fine, but we prefer more of a 'layman's' language step by step.

Can you help??

Best - Don
Click to expand...

This won't be specific to the 3.0 because I've never pulled one, but the process generally goes like this:

Drain the engine oil and radiator coolant.
Pull the accessory belts, and remove the engine fan and shroud.
Remove the radiator (gives you room to work).
Disconnect the engine harness at the ECU and pull the cables up through the grommet.
Disconnect the fuel line.
Remove the AC pump and set it aside (don't disconnect the hoses, just unbolt it from the block).
Remove the PS pump and set it aside.
Search out and disconnect any other vacuum hose or harness connections between the engine and the body - brake booster hose, connection to the ignition coil, etc.
Unbolt the exhaust manifold.
Unbolt the engine mounts.
Unbolt the engine from the bellhousing.
Hook up your hoist and support the motors weight, then yank it off the transmission (this may take a little effort, which is why you pulled the radiator earlier).
Once you're free of the trans, lift the motor slowly, watching underneath and on all sides for any connections you forgot.

Chilton and Haynes manuals have decent step by step directions that will be much more specific. The FSM is very good for things like this too, unless you don't know the names of the engine bay components, which is where the Chilton with the pictures comes in ;). Take lots of pictures as you go that you can refer back to when you go to put it back together. Get a roll of masking tape to tag each harness and vacuum connection that you remove so you know what goes where, and put bolts and nuts back where they go, or put them in sandwich bags with labels.

Go slow. If this is your first time pulling a motor, you and your boy are going to feel confused and disoriented, so don't rush it. Expect the process of pulling the old motor and installing the new one to take a couple days or more.
 
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pretty close to the list I give my grunts to work from when pulling engines for swap, the only thing you need to pay attention to is the ac idle up vac lines near fuse block. People always have issues hooking them back up correctly because there are a few. Pull the PS pump with the motor and put new fluid in and inspect pump seal for wear and leaks, also I wouldn't bother pulling belts. Do all that crap while it's on the stand much easier
 
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gtgt_bangbang said:
take everything off as you come to it
take pictures
label stuff
draw it
make a list of needs as you go.
dont get derailed.
assembly is reverse order.
next ?
Click to expand...

Couldn't agree more, especially the labels. You can't possibly take too many notes and pics are also a big plus when you go routing hoses and wires.
As previously stated, take your time, think about what you're doing. You'll be fine.

Oh and, don't forget to DC and remove that battery!
 
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