1990 silver bullet runner

So i have been reading aroung and decide to get my first runner. I purchased a 1990 silver 3.sl0w. I found it 30 min after he put it on criags list and called right away. I looked at it after work and fell in love. I had been saving for a while so i bought her up. I am the 4th owner. Shes rust free and her frame is in great condition. I picked her up for a little pricey 3700. The only thing that is wrong is the the check engine light is on and the 4wd light is on even in 2wd. The engine is throwing a code 52 so im going to replace sensor and harness. as for the 4wd light idk. I almost forgot but I bought it with a borla race exhaust and its loud.I picked her up with 178630 miles.Everything other than that works perfect even cigarette lighter.I have had it for about a month and a half and i love it!!!!! so far i haven't done anything serious but i plan to in the future. Yesterday i bought another runner. shes gold and doesnt run. The gold runner has factory rear tire swing and Toyota original front bumper. I got her for 300$ I will be putting all the parts on my silver runner. also the interior is pretty damn good.
So far these are the parts I have put in the truck.


Fluids:
power steering
brake
clutch
front and back diff
tranny fluid
and radiator flush.

Parts
all belts
Spectrum radiator
o2 sensor
cold air intake
driver side and passenger cv
front and back brakes
front rotors
Thermostat.
power steering pump
wheel bearings
fixed exhaust leak
Knock sensor
o2 sensor(again)
Bilstein struts(front)
4wd t case switch(Didn't fix anything XD)
Shifter seat & cap
E-Brake cable(Broke but easy replacement)
Body Work:
I patched up the rust from under the bumper but pretty much the same time period I backed into a small tree on trail and a concrete pole so the rust is gone but the dents are not
 

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So I bought a junked gold runner and it has a rear tube bumber so i will take off my rear bumper tonight
 

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So my once rust free runner is no longer rust free. I took off the bumper and there is a little bit of rust where the bumpers covering. The gold runner has rust free panels so I will have to cut them off it and put them on the silver runner. I don't know how to do body work but I will learn as I go. Have to wait till next paycheck to get everything I need.
 

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Thank you!! Does any of you know if a ps pump from a 1991 3.0 will fit in my 1990 3.0. I have a 1991 as a donor car. would it be a direct fit?

If they're the same engine then yes. FYI, be careful when removing the return hose, they like to disintegrate.

There should be a two wire switch on the front differential, it's right next to the actuator. I would start there. Another possibility is that the actuator for the front diff is stuck on. let me know what you find, I have both volumes of the factory service from toyota, complete with all wiring diagrams.
 
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What should I do about the rust??I don't think im going to take it off the gold runner, because I think im going to fix it up. I was thinking about just cutting it out and welding a piece of sheet metal over it.The bumper would cover it up anyways.Has anyone done that before? also I got a little crazy when crawling and slid into a rock therefore breaking my light and denting up my rear qp. #Shouldofhadoffraodtires
 
What should I do about the rust??I don't think im going to take it off the gold runner, because I think im going to fix it up. I was thinking about just cutting it out and welding a piece of sheet metal over it.The bumper would cover it up anyways.Has anyone done that before? also I got a little crazy when crawling and slid into a rock therefore breaking my light and denting up my rear qp. #Shouldofhadoffraodtires

I'd kill the rust and maybe weld a panel there. Cover it in some bedliner spray and you should be fine.
 
As for the dent, do you think it would be easy to unbend or should I take it to a body shop?

I mean depends on how much you know and how much you wanna do. That dent is pretty creased. The bumper would cover most of it. At the very least, I'd just scuff the paint and spray bed liner on to prevent rust. Unless you are running tube bumpers, that should mostly be covered.

I whacked above the taillight real bad and I wish I knew how to cut/weld a panel out because thats what I should've done.

IMG_1173 by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

Still doesn't really look 'right'
 
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Honest I think im going to try to pull it out. It wont look good but at least it wont be dented inward. At least your panel isn't dented anymore. I don't think it looks to bad. Its actually pretty good.
 
How long did it take to replace the CV joints? Both of my outer boots recently cracked and are leaking, but there's no damage yet. I'm thinking of just putting on new "weld together" boots off of rock auto for $21 each. I'm at 176k.

When you replaced the O2 sensor, did it change things much? On other cars (long ago, but similar years) I have had the check engine light come on when it needed replacement. With the mileage I think I probably should replace it, but I have enough other things on my list right now that the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing runs through my head.
 
How long did it take to replace the CV joints? Both of my outer boots recently cracked and are leaking, but there's no damage yet. I'm thinking of just putting on new "weld together" boots off of rock auto for $21 each. I'm at 176k.

When you replaced the O2 sensor, did it change things much? On other cars (long ago, but similar years) I have had the check engine light come on when it needed replacement. With the mileage I think I probably should replace it, but I have enough other things on my list right now that the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" thing runs through my head.


Honestly the only reason I Bought brand new CV's was so I would have an extra pair. I took the old ones and rebuilt them and now they are good as new, and I have an extra pair for the trail. As for how long it took, it took about an hour a piece. Its honestly pretty easy if you do it the right way.
When ever I replaced the O2 sensor I didn't really notice a difference. Probably because my knock sensor is bad and my timing is retarded(Due to safe Mode) but im betting youll get better MPG though. Im not sure If it will give a code honestly. Mine was all rusted and looked like sh*** so I just replaced it. Mine probably wasn't broken but that's alright.
 
I picked up the sheet metal today. I will work on it when I get off. By the end of the weekend I will have a rust free runner.:banana: and maybe a rear tire swing:cheers:
 
I picked up the sheet metal today. I will work on it when I get off. By the end of the weekend I will have a rust free runner.:banana: and maybe a rear tire swing:cheers:

Was your truck originally from somewhere NOT New Mexico? Or somewhere rainy in NM (lol)? I've had mine in Texas, Tennessee, and Arkansas with plenty of rain, driving, and what have you, and mine doesn't seem to have a lick of rust in any of the typical areas.
 
Was your truck originally from somewhere NOT New Mexico? Or somewhere rainy in NM (lol)? I've had mine in Texas, Tennessee, and Arkansas with plenty of rain, driving, and what have you, and mine doesn't seem to have a lick of rust in any of the typical areas.


You know I cant remember the towns its been in. I do know that its always Been in New Mexico though. Usually cars from here don't rust to bad its pretty dry. I don't get why it rusted there but no where else its kinda weird.. I just got done wire wheeling both sides... Ig the person before be had rust right above the bumper and put Bndo and paint and left it...Ig its my problem now...:high5:
 
So me and my step dad started it on Friday. We cut out the rust, cleaned the inside of the quarter panel, and primed the inside of panel. The tricky part was making the body lines. I was originally going to put a flat piece of metal there but my step dad convivced me that it would look better if we formed it. We got everything tacked up and we were going to finish it the next day. I got sick and was un able to finish it. I will have to wait until my stepdad is ready again then it will be done. this is what it looks like as of now.
 

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Im finally done with the rear qp and they look alright. Nothing professional but the rust is gone. Right after I was done with the rust I accidentally back into a small pole denting in the whole lower part of the back latch. So we welded a little piece of metal to it and ratchet the dent out, doesn't look good but the widow rolls down. Also I replaced my knock sensor and pigtail. It was a pain in the a**. But in the process I found out that my timing belt tensioner was seized and would not move and that I needed a new belt and idler bearing. But when we first took the timing cover off the idler bearing spun freely. It had no tension. We didn't think anything of it till we buttoned it back up and tried to start it and it was making a thump and backfiring. We took the timing cover off and though out the process of changing my knock sensor the timing slipped and was now a quarter turn off of its mark and that's when we ran into the seized bearing. lucky the tensioner on my spare runner was working so we swapped it in while we wait on parts. we re buttoned her up and she started right up. The only bad thing is that I now have a code 21. Not sure what code that is but ill find out... almost forgot I got a new 4wd sensor switch so now my 4wd light isn't on anymore. two dash lights done just the check engine to worry about now.
 

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