O.B.A.K
New member
Hey all, finally got around to getting some posts built up on here for privileges, so thus starts the 2nd gen build thread for Killbox. Side note - why is the 2nd gen forum these days full of crickets? Did everyone buy new runners and forget the nostalgia? Anyways:
Specs:
1995 sr5 4runner 4x4
Sierra Beige Metallic, tan cloth interior
3.0 3vze, 5speed r150 transmission
4.56 factory gears, OEM Toyota tow package
I lucked into this 4runner that had been sitting in a buddy's yard for six years. He had picked it up due to its immaculate nature, knowing that someday he would build it into a super clean daily. I convinced him to pawn it off on me for $2000 with a locked up 3.0 and plenty of filth. I wanted this build to be simple, fairly cheap, and to extend the lifespan of the motor and chassis with tasteful modifications that would give me more peace of mind on extended trips and off-road.
Modifications/upgrades:
AC delete
Auto hub delete (Aisin manual hubs)
Cat delete (lc engineering)
Chrome delete
EGR delete (lc engineering)
Auto antenna delete (broken anyways)
4 crawler offroad 1.5" BJ spacer/rear coil spacer, sway bar drop, rear proportioning valve spacer, 1" diff drop
Moog stock size rear coils
KYB red +2 F shocks
KYB red R shocks
Trailgear weldable shock mounts
F/R sway bar end links
OEM cat back exhaust (rusted out)
New front rotors/pads/calipers
New CV axles L/R
New FR wheel bearing
New tie rod ends
New BJ U/L
Marlin Crawler short shift kit
Yakima rack system
BFG 33x10.5x15 on steelies
Ebay seat covers with Molle attachments
Wrap crossover manifold with heat wrap
Vision X 9004 bulbs
Vision X 4.5" LED fog lamps/amazon light bar wired to OEM Toyota fog switch
Red LED map lights, LED cargo lamp, LED reverse bulbs
Synthetic gear lube F/R diffs, Tcase, Trans
Diff breathers
Replaced rear wiper blade
Bosch Icon wipers
Future plans:
4x4 labs rear bumper (with no attachments)
ARB bull bar front bumper
Rocky road super sliders
Safari snorkel with dust collector
x5 31x10.5x15 Toyo MT's on SR5 aluminum rims
Yukon grizzly locker (rear)
Total chaos caddy idler arm
Maintenance:
All 3 remaining wheel bearings
OEM u-joints X3
Pinion kit for locker install
Camping:
Leaning towards the Tepui Autana Ruggedized Sky model in expedition orange
Tepui luxury mattress, double boot bag, Autana weather hood
I like Tepui because there are a few dealers up here in Alaska for them, and can possibly purchase through REI and utilize the membership bonuses + free shipping
I have the Yakima round bar system in place now on the OEM tracks, but with the tent it would be pretty high off the top of the truck, so looking at Off-road unlimited defender factory roof mounts with a custom aluminum frame the dimensions of the tent mounts to keep things low, also maybe tied in with the existing Yakima racks above the doors for some sort of a basket/rack to be able to utilize that storage space as well.
Motor build:
Started out by ripping out the frozen block, dropping transmission, and emptying all fluids out of the cases, which all looked fairly good besides the engine oil which was the consistency of molasses. After guts were out rolled it outside for a proper and thorough pressure wash, which was fantastic for both the truck and my OCD.
Block had grenaded so it was trash, found a donor long block from a 90 runner and scavenged some Yakima track racks off it and the motor. Tore that motor down to the block, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned. The PO had used RTV on everything, and it had infiltrated all the internals. Wonder it ran. They even used it on the HG.
Sent off original heads for resurfacing, came back clean and flat, as well as resurfacing of crankshaft in a few spots. Didn't bore out the block as I wanted to keep things stock, just done right. Fresh rings, bearings, seals throughout. New head studs, high-quality HG, OEM water pump/oil pump/timing belt/plugs/wires/distributor/Knock sensor & pigtail etc. Basically everything new except the heavy bones. Wrapped crossover exhaust with heatwrap, and deleted the oil cooler (Alaska) in favor for a dual filter setup as seen in pictures to follow. I know alot of people frown on the 3.0 build, but the truck came with basically everything I needed to rebuild with OEM parts (previous Toyota parts tech & graduated 3.0 junkie), minus a hydraulic tensioner and a few other small bits.
While that was happening, we installed the spacer lift, new front CVs, tie rods, BJ's x4, front shocks, and removed the ADD and swapped on Aisin hubs, also loosening the torsions as the PO had them cranked so stiff you couldn't cycle the suspension.
The rear treatment consisted of ditching old springs, shocks, shock mounts in favor of new OEM height springs with spacer-lift, and relocated shock mounts to run stock height shocks.
Motor went back in smoothly, started up nicely but ended up fighting the dreaded 52 code (KS), as well as code 14 and 21 (ignition & o2). Relocated knock sensor to the side of the intake manifold where the egr had been deleted from, replaced ignition control module with new/used unit, fresh Denso 02 sensor and a new fuel filter for good measure fixed all my code issues. Still wasn't right, dug around and found the PCV valve we had replaced and had never hooked up again, made a huge difference, but still not there. Advanced timing to between 11-13, woke the motor up! All codes cleared and running great, she's due for her 1000 mile oil change in about 800 miles. Running Mobil 1 full synthetic with OEM toyota filter(s).
Cheers
Specs:
1995 sr5 4runner 4x4
Sierra Beige Metallic, tan cloth interior
3.0 3vze, 5speed r150 transmission
4.56 factory gears, OEM Toyota tow package
I lucked into this 4runner that had been sitting in a buddy's yard for six years. He had picked it up due to its immaculate nature, knowing that someday he would build it into a super clean daily. I convinced him to pawn it off on me for $2000 with a locked up 3.0 and plenty of filth. I wanted this build to be simple, fairly cheap, and to extend the lifespan of the motor and chassis with tasteful modifications that would give me more peace of mind on extended trips and off-road.
Modifications/upgrades:
AC delete
Auto hub delete (Aisin manual hubs)
Cat delete (lc engineering)
Chrome delete
EGR delete (lc engineering)
Auto antenna delete (broken anyways)
4 crawler offroad 1.5" BJ spacer/rear coil spacer, sway bar drop, rear proportioning valve spacer, 1" diff drop
Moog stock size rear coils
KYB red +2 F shocks
KYB red R shocks
Trailgear weldable shock mounts
F/R sway bar end links
OEM cat back exhaust (rusted out)
New front rotors/pads/calipers
New CV axles L/R
New FR wheel bearing
New tie rod ends
New BJ U/L
Marlin Crawler short shift kit
Yakima rack system
BFG 33x10.5x15 on steelies
Ebay seat covers with Molle attachments
Wrap crossover manifold with heat wrap
Vision X 9004 bulbs
Vision X 4.5" LED fog lamps/amazon light bar wired to OEM Toyota fog switch
Red LED map lights, LED cargo lamp, LED reverse bulbs
Synthetic gear lube F/R diffs, Tcase, Trans
Diff breathers
Replaced rear wiper blade
Bosch Icon wipers
Future plans:
4x4 labs rear bumper (with no attachments)
ARB bull bar front bumper
Rocky road super sliders
Safari snorkel with dust collector
x5 31x10.5x15 Toyo MT's on SR5 aluminum rims
Yukon grizzly locker (rear)
Total chaos caddy idler arm
Maintenance:
All 3 remaining wheel bearings
OEM u-joints X3
Pinion kit for locker install
Camping:
Leaning towards the Tepui Autana Ruggedized Sky model in expedition orange
Tepui luxury mattress, double boot bag, Autana weather hood
I like Tepui because there are a few dealers up here in Alaska for them, and can possibly purchase through REI and utilize the membership bonuses + free shipping
I have the Yakima round bar system in place now on the OEM tracks, but with the tent it would be pretty high off the top of the truck, so looking at Off-road unlimited defender factory roof mounts with a custom aluminum frame the dimensions of the tent mounts to keep things low, also maybe tied in with the existing Yakima racks above the doors for some sort of a basket/rack to be able to utilize that storage space as well.
Motor build:
Started out by ripping out the frozen block, dropping transmission, and emptying all fluids out of the cases, which all looked fairly good besides the engine oil which was the consistency of molasses. After guts were out rolled it outside for a proper and thorough pressure wash, which was fantastic for both the truck and my OCD.
Block had grenaded so it was trash, found a donor long block from a 90 runner and scavenged some Yakima track racks off it and the motor. Tore that motor down to the block, cleaned, cleaned and cleaned. The PO had used RTV on everything, and it had infiltrated all the internals. Wonder it ran. They even used it on the HG.
Sent off original heads for resurfacing, came back clean and flat, as well as resurfacing of crankshaft in a few spots. Didn't bore out the block as I wanted to keep things stock, just done right. Fresh rings, bearings, seals throughout. New head studs, high-quality HG, OEM water pump/oil pump/timing belt/plugs/wires/distributor/Knock sensor & pigtail etc. Basically everything new except the heavy bones. Wrapped crossover exhaust with heatwrap, and deleted the oil cooler (Alaska) in favor for a dual filter setup as seen in pictures to follow. I know alot of people frown on the 3.0 build, but the truck came with basically everything I needed to rebuild with OEM parts (previous Toyota parts tech & graduated 3.0 junkie), minus a hydraulic tensioner and a few other small bits.
While that was happening, we installed the spacer lift, new front CVs, tie rods, BJ's x4, front shocks, and removed the ADD and swapped on Aisin hubs, also loosening the torsions as the PO had them cranked so stiff you couldn't cycle the suspension.
The rear treatment consisted of ditching old springs, shocks, shock mounts in favor of new OEM height springs with spacer-lift, and relocated shock mounts to run stock height shocks.
Motor went back in smoothly, started up nicely but ended up fighting the dreaded 52 code (KS), as well as code 14 and 21 (ignition & o2). Relocated knock sensor to the side of the intake manifold where the egr had been deleted from, replaced ignition control module with new/used unit, fresh Denso 02 sensor and a new fuel filter for good measure fixed all my code issues. Still wasn't right, dug around and found the PCV valve we had replaced and had never hooked up again, made a huge difference, but still not there. Advanced timing to between 11-13, woke the motor up! All codes cleared and running great, she's due for her 1000 mile oil change in about 800 miles. Running Mobil 1 full synthetic with OEM toyota filter(s).
Cheers
