1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

So steady vacuum is 20 to 22hg then? Didn’t know that. What port/line are you using to test such?

manifold vacuum zone, vac gauge

once warmed up it should stick @ 20 IMO

I rechecked and FSM does say 17 so mabe I'm good, since no supercharger on this one, yet.
 
I will have to check that out.

That garage is sorely missing a lift in it. :lol:

if only I would have put in 4 more feet of headroom clearance when I built it? and not run that in floor heating, would love to drill some holes and go thru a tube, not.

I have an evil plan for next summer, I'm going to go grab another hoist so I can pull the frame and body apart. I think with 2x hoists, one on each side and using the center of the body with some sort of sketchy support it should work ok.

so.... I just did the evap delete. it works just fine and no codes. will run it for a while and see.

also via ODBII the PID for VAC says now I have 22 hg. I will have to dig out that gauge and test again.
 
No idea why but somebody decided to rip the drivers seat out at some point. probably because the bolt was rusted or maybe zombies? anyways, having a wobbly drivers seat is kind of annoying so I grabbed a M10 I think that was long enough to go all the way thru and secured it. Now I have a solid drivers seat. this truck has so much sketch in it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/Tz7kIJ3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Tz7kIJ3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/c52pJH4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/c52pJH4l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/vKAB8UP"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/vKAB8UPl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I'm 100% sure somebody did the same thing before but... bolt must have rusted off?
<a href="https://imgur.com/Iny0RoD"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Iny0RoDl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Nice work! I need this mod for my drivers seat...
 
frame replacement

OK!

seems like back when T4R was subject to the terror attacks or something I lost some post in this thread. :(

I need a new frame for this truck, got pretty lucky and found a CA truck that had moved to MN for just a year or so before it was salvaged so not much rust on it.

I can't really work on this part until spring of 2019 so... this is on hold but I can hopefully take care of the other parts I will need to get this frame swapped in.

<a href="https://imgur.com/JU3fS8f"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/JU3fS8fl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
rear axle restore

Everything I will be doing on this frame up restore on 1997 pinky will be coated with KBS DTM epoxy primer and then their top coat.

Why would I use that KBS coatings stuff.

#1 I don't have spray stuff and I don't have access to anyplace I could spray, unless I pony up the $ to have somebody else do it.
- conclusion -> brushing it on
#2 I wanted a direct to metal epoxy (DTM) because they claim better corrosion protection, so I drank this koolaid.

so far... I have done the axles, bearing cups, rear axle assembly and it's a biach to work with because painting these intricate little spaces takes a lot of time. impossible to not get runs but this the underside so I'm not really super freaked about brush marks and runs. what I want is solid corrosion protection and hopefully this will help. time will tell.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MLAAWK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BU9FIAM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

using this flow chart to apply

RustSeal Flow Chart - Basic Guidelines - Stop Rust

sandblast->rust seal->rust seal->black top


<a href="https://imgur.com/tkhB7Y2"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tkhB7Y2l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/cXF4FQ5"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cXF4FQ5l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/wEg77jg"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wEg77jgl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/IYg816U"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/IYg816Ul.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/F2ez7v8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/F2ez7v8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

super sexy PCK from
buy a PCK – jkeithwalters.com
<a href="https://imgur.com/kSDA52m"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kSDA52ml.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/U49w8eZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/U49w8eZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
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[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] don’t you have a compressor? The harbor freight spray guns are actually perfect for this kind of work. I’ve used them to spray frame coatings and such. They don’t have as much air consumption either unlike my devilbiss guns. Looks good regardless! And I wouldn’t really care if there were runs on anything on my undercarriage.
 
[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] don’t you have a compressor? The harbor freight spray guns are actually perfect for this kind of work. I’ve used them to spray frame coatings and such. They don’t have as much air consumption either unlike my devilbiss guns. Looks good regardless! And I wouldn’t really care if there were runs on anything on my undercarriage.

I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.

I wish I could get it looking factory but that is just not going to happen. e-coat is not in the budget. I'm thinking I need to setup a frame rotisserie out of a couple harbor freight engine stands. being able to spin things around makes life so much easier.

something like this... not sure yet but after I'm done with rear axles here I'm going to start collecting the pieces.
<a href="https://imgur.com/cweqM0f"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cweqM0fl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.

I wish I could get it looking factory but that is just not going to happen. e-coat is not in the budget. I'm thinking I need to setup a frame rotisserie out of a couple harbor freight engine stands. being able to spin things around makes life so much easier.

something like this... not sure yet but after I'm done with rear axles here I'm going to start collecting the pieces.
<a href="https://imgur.com/cweqM0f"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cweqM0fl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] is using some product from Eastwood to get on the inside of his frame, it has a 3’ hose attachment or something.
 
I think I have about 10 CFM @ 90 psi with my ganged up harbor freight 30 gal's. my blasting setup.

I don't have anyplace to spray that is heated. My wife might get angry if I setup a spray booth in the living room?

I'm going to need to do some kind of internal frame coating thing after I'm outside because there are still some places you just can't get with a brush or spray gun. the spring perch/sway bar bracket mount area and panhard bar mount have sealed areas.

That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.
 
[MENTION=175921]TonyB66[/MENTION] is using some product from Eastwood to get on the inside of his frame, it has a 3’ hose attachment or something.

Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...

From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.

NZY4QCv.jpg


Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood
 
My mat on the driverside has the exact same hole in it as yours!!! And the tire, i would say they or you got the goodie outta that one

I guess it's a pretty common spot for failure. I might cut the drivers side floor out of a salvage runner next summer but... not sure if I want to save this body because it's so far gone already. probably look for another body after I get the frame part re-done.
 
That’s perfect the HF guns require 6cfm at 40psi for the gravity feed gun and 2cfm at 40psi for the siphon feed gun. Heat is necessary though. Minimum of 60*. I think the E-coats are overrated. Just use the stuff you’re using(or for anyone reading this and bought a difference product just make sure you’re using a good quality epoxy primer then a compatible topcoat, most companies have products that go together). Products like por15 and chassis saver can be used in cold temps it just takes forever to dry. I also have a paint spray gun that has a long tube that’s like the Eastwood aerosol frame coating cans.

I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.

did you ever do those knuckles?
 
Indeed, looking at that box now actually; and moments ago used my air compressor to blow-out some dust and debris from the rear of the frame rails...

From the Eastwood website, 3 cans is sufficient for treating inside the frame rails. I had decided to get 4 to have some extra and use in other places. Then I realized with various discounts and free shipping specials, it was only a few bucks more to get 7 cans.

NZY4QCv.jpg


Ended-up being 12 dollars a can delivered. They have it on discount for $19/can.

Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle | Eastwood

cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.

please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.

"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright
 
I will try spraying this stuff but I can't do it until winter is over. it would take a dam long time to brush an entire frame. Like you said it takes forever for this moisture activated stuff to cure with the low humidity right now. they claim 3-6 hours and it's taking 16-18 hours right t now. HR in my shop was 17.... kicked on the humidifier and now I'm pushing 35 so that should help the cure time a bit.

did you ever do those knuckles?

Yep I did. I used chassis saver brand primer then sprayed their topcoat and they look basically brand new. I’m putting them on the truck in a couple weeks along with a lot of other goodies.
 
There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.
 
cool this was also my plan... once I get outside and get setup. I think I'm going to do the inside of the frame first then blast and coat the outside. just from a drips and runs perspective I can see already stuff runs out the holes and makes drips and runs. think doing the inside of the frame first makes sense.

please share your experience once you give it a try. it seems like by the time I'm done with these one off's I know what I should have done.

"Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it." - Steven Wright

If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...

I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...

Endoscoping the 3rd gen...

Really like having an endoscope!
 
If you were closer, I'd sell you 3 of those cans for $36 (my delivered cost)...

I won't be doing this until it warms-up. I have no pressing rust issues, as far as I can tell. Not sure you saw this thread...

Endoscoping the 3rd gen...

Really like having an endoscope!

I also have one of those amazon scopes, my wife got it for me last Xmas. She told me I always was complaining about getting into those tight spots to see the details. She then told me to wipe that sick smile off my face.

I also looked at roto rooter stuff for the pressure wash... not sure yet. I will post something once I get rolling. I have bare frame it should makes things easier.
 
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There's something irresistible about a rusty and patina-ridden craiglist 4Runner that is in the 3-digit range. Been there, done that. Not the best investment but I love it. Reminds me of my green truck, even has the same spot of rot creeping up on the rear fender flare.

this one also smells like it drove home from a bunch of late night collage parties. I'm pretty sure there is something dead someplace still hiding in it.

I really just wanted it for the engine... but then somehow it ended up becoming a frame up restore project. when it goes thru the car wash it looks really nice, except those gaping holes. For now keeping the dream alive.
 

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