1997 Sketchy SleepyDad build

[96RedRunner]

got a couple of hours to do me stuff, yes!
I'm not big on lic plate deco but I did try this and it seems like it will get rid of the lic plate rattle...

I like the way you do your thing always good stuff.
Plate Deco - try sticky back felt from Craft store cut to plate lasts till new plates come out no sub thump rattle
- ditch the deco, ha.

Plate bezel part of roof repaint project since paint gun be out.

 

[infamousRNR]

[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]

I just love reading through your build threads. your cheeky wit, pictures of part numbers and super-sicmods make it a nice light afternoon read.




.

 

[3bears]

I took some pictures and kind of tried to document what I did... however... I can't seem to find any of the in process shots.

<a href="https://imgur.com/0sa74Rn"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/0sa74Rnl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

my door cards and handles were terrible from the previous owner who let their dog climb all over the back and passenger. luckily they had seat covers so that part is still pretty mint in this truck.

I got some vinyl and 3/16" foam and went to town and stripped down the door cards and re-glued everything with black vinyl.

super happy with how it all turned out and it's a huge improvement over the 1/2 falling off dog urine scented old ones. I like the black, it goes well with the moon mist interior so we are going to keep going down the replace it with black as the need arises. ++the inside of the truck now has that contact cement smell on warm days.

<a href="https://imgur.com/IfNSikO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/IfNSikOl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/IUAmBkZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/IUAmBkZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/sYt60h6"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/sYt60h6l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

did you seperate the two halves.
reason I ask, is I have 2 door cards for my drivers. One is pretty broken at the bottom, one is bad on the top. was gonna grind off the little plastic "bruned " rivits, just not sure how to then re-attach
guess I could hot glue them
ideas ?

 

[sleepydad]

did you seperate the two halves.
reason I ask, is I have 2 door cards for my drivers. One is pretty broken at the bottom, one is bad on the top. was gonna grind off the little plastic "bruned " rivits, just not sure how to then re-attach
guess I could hot glue them
ideas ?

my cards are in good condition but I did use an old one to experiment on, good idea to have a whoops door card available to mess up on IMO.

yes I removed the upper and lower sections.

2 paths you can take.

I have tried both paths, both work ok.

path 1 pickup a cheap plastic welder/solder gun thing like this one... I used it... just fine. don't expect it to last a long time but for that price, meh.

Massca Plastic Welding Kit with Rods, Reinforcing Mesh, Hot Iron Stand, and Wire Brush, DIY Arts and Crafts or Professional Surface Repair, Portable Use, 80 Watt - - Amazon.com

you just get it hot and melt the plastic "bruned " rivits holding it on but don't melt too much because you need to re-melt those spots with the extra plastic from the welding kit.

when your done it will look like this

<a href="https://imgur.com/e6LzvuN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/e6LzvuNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

path 2

your going to have use your imagination sorry don't have picts, but if you grind down those little plastic "bruned " rivits just enough to get them to release the upper section, you can use a self tapping screw with a washer and it works pretty well. just have to be super careful not to drill thru to the other side and leave a hole in your door card. or hot glue would work it just might not hold all that great. the screw it down approached seemed to work just a tiny bit better.

 

[96RedRunner]

Fastener tab rightside center is broken on every card I've seen owned when I got them.

 

[3bears]

my cards are in good condition but I did use an old one to experiment on, good idea to have a whoops door card available to mess up on IMO.

yes I removed the upper and lower sections.

2 paths you can take.

I have tried both paths, both work ok.

path 1 pickup a cheap plastic welder/solder gun thing like this one... I used it... just fine. don't expect it to last a long time but for that price, meh.

Massca Plastic Welding Kit with Rods, Reinforcing Mesh, Hot Iron Stand, and Wire Brush, DIY Arts and Crafts or Professional Surface Repair, Portable Use, 80 Watt - - Amazon.com

you just get it hot and melt the plastic "bruned " rivits holding it on but don't melt too much because you need to re-melt those spots with the extra plastic from the welding kit.

when your done it will look like this

<a href="https://imgur.com/e6LzvuN"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/e6LzvuNl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

path 2

your going to have use your imagination sorry don't have picts, but if you grind down those little plastic "bruned " rivits just enough to get them to release the upper section, you can use a self tapping screw with a washer and it works pretty well. just have to be super careful not to drill thru to the other side and leave a hole in your door card. or hot glue would work it just might not hold all that great. the screw it down approached seemed to work just a tiny bit better.

gonna try method 2 as i am in a time crunch, and I do have a woops door to practice on. thnaks for the ideas

 

[JZiggy]

gonna try method 2 as i am in a time crunch, and I do have a woops door to practice on. thnaks for the ideas

Screws with widely spaced, deep threads will bite into that soft plastic much better than a sheet metal screw, BTW.

 

[96RedRunner]

Screws with widely spaced, deep threads will bite into that soft plastic much better than a sheet metal screw, BTW.

Helps against splitting if you drill pilot hole correct size for screw your using.

 

[3bears]

after cutting door panels apart...and picking up small screws....well.not gonna work well... they could work on the outer ones,,,not the inner near door handle and arm rest.I ordered the glue gun thing you referenced
thanks

 

[sleepydad]

after cutting door panels apart...and picking up small screws....well.not gonna work well... they could work on the outer ones,,,not the inner near door handle and arm rest.I ordered the glue gun thing you referenced
thanks

bummer well... update us when you get the plastic melting thingy. it works ok for the price.

interior upholstery is harder than it looks. at first I was expecting it to be easy and it turned out I had to really pay attention to the details otherwise it does not work out.

one other thing I just went thru - I had to re-apply some extra contact cement and fix a sag. I initially did the work in the winter time and once it got super summer roasting hot one spot needed more glue. not surprised because the vinyl with fabric backing seems to suck up some glue so make sure you apply plenty.

 

[3bears]

thanks...im not doing anything new...like new vinyl....just taking one door pannel that is busted on the bottom half and attaching to one door panel that is busted on the top half. So one good bottom panel attached to one good top panel... Up here ...could not find any door panels that were good

 

[sleepydad]

rcv axles are the best, ah yea not

have been working on a full floating rear for this truck, it's slow going.

when inserting the axles into the differential one axle slides into place perfectly. The other axle stops short and will not slide in to full engagement. once the trouble axle has been slid into place it is extremely difficult to remove.

the axles need to fully seat for everything to work correctly on the locking hub side.

I have a spare differential assembly so after removing both axles from the truck, I tried both axles on either side of my spare differential. Yes one axle regardless of side will not slide to full engagement.

left side will not slide in
<a href="https://imgur.com/yznZJpH"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/yznZJpHl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

remove and swap sides
right side will not slide in now
<a href="https://imgur.com/MIgNG3n"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/MIgNG3nl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/ePvE9UE"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ePvE9UEl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Not sure why it seems so common to get crap from so many automotive aftermarket suppliers. it would be so easy to just test fit those axles before you ship them? ah yea why would test fit something? lets ship it all over the world and cause everybody the most amount of pain possible. The profit margins on these things must be amazing if 1/2 of what you produce is bad from the start. I will have to see if I can get these made elsewhere, since it sounds like RCV is +6 months behind on orders. not only do they make crap but they can't make crap fast enough to keep up. #sad

 

[JZiggy]

Put a little Prussian blue on there and see where it’s hanging up. Maybe a bit of filing on the splines will do the trick.

 

[sleepydad]

Put a little Prussian blue on there and see where it’s hanging up. Maybe a bit of filing on the splines will do the trick.

I had another spare spider I kept just in case so I took that apart and we ran the splines thru a side gear a couple of times. This helped and I was able then to dead blow it into it's home. I'm sure as soon as we run a bit it will make it's witness mark and should slide in and out just fine.

I found it ironic they say this is a floating axle setup where can just remove the axle... I was like yea if you have to pound the axle in with a hammer? "floating" is not the word I would use. sigh.

so now I just need to fab up some break lines and of course swap out assemblies. I'm getting a closer to being able to flat tow.

 

[sleepydad]

Something Old, New, Borrowed and marked in Blue paint pen.

finally at long last... just need to do brake lines now. that should be easy right.


the something new part, yes that is what you think it is
<a href="https://imgur.com/wMDBbzw"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wMDBbzwl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/2S7jhG7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2S7jhG7l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/nYO9Ma1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nYO9Ma1l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

in all it's glory, just like factory fresh, even with link bar correction bracket.
<a href="https://imgur.com/kuqDfkU"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kuqDfkUl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[T4topher]

finally at long last... just need to do brake lines now. that should be easy right.


the something new part, yes that is what you think it is
<a href="https://imgur.com/wMDBbzw"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wMDBbzwl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/2S7jhG7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2S7jhG7l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/nYO9Ma1"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nYO9Ma1l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

in all it's glory, just like factory fresh, even with link bar correction bracket.
<a href="https://imgur.com/kuqDfkU"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kuqDfkUl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Lookin gud man!! Excited for you haha. I’ve heard pretty mixed reviews about RCV, lame you had to go through that with brand new parts..

 

[sleepydad]

480 miles into it and it's smooth like budder

having the lockouts on the back always makes me smile when I walk path this truck now. I needed to change the oil in this truck a couple hundred miles ago so this will work out well doing a 500 mile rear 3rd break-in fluid change at the same time. that is what I keep telling myself
<a href="https://imgur.com/Qi9AEFn"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Qi9AEFnl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

one last thing I need to get some flex lines maybe on the rear? maybe have not sure yet.
<a href="https://imgur.com/y7gxzTB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/y7gxzTBl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

but all in all the front range kit is really working well. I'm not so wild about loosing the rear ABS but choices have to be made.

 

[Rockdawg84]

. I'm not so wild about loosing the rear ABS but choices have to be made.

you don't have to loose the ABS but it is a bit of work. And you do loose the ability to pull the axle shafts without pulling the whole chunk.

See here

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3175220-post299.html

 

[sleepydad]

you don't have to loose the ABS but it is a bit of work. And you do loose the ability to pull the axle shafts without pulling the whole chunk.

See here

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3175220-post299.html

I know and I did considering doing it. I just don't have a lathe. also not sure but they changed the spindle seal and it pretty much takes 3/4 of the ABS sensor hole now so I'm not sure the tone ring is going to be close enough to work?

I need to figure something out because I have been sideways now 2x times and once it snows this truck is going to be un-drivable.

I used the IFS pickup V6 front 2x piston calipers and the land cruiser vented rotors so the rear brakes work like wayyyy to good now.

Brake Caliper and Rotor Combo, Standard | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

so... not sure what I'm going to do yet.

 

[sleepydad]

ARB 5mm to 6mm update and 90 deg fittings

I need to setup the rear locker on this truck and it had the old style bulkhead fitting with the 3.5mm copper.

I noticed a while back ARB is now offering a 90 deg fitting for their lockers with an updated 6mm black hose.

got the kit and OMG get out your dentistry tools
<a href="https://imgur.com/mQz4mpe"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/mQz4mpel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

they had a chance here to do it right but focked this part up.. sigh. you can't fit a socket or a full wrench turn on the banjo fitting. come on ARB even fiat gets this part correct. Did you hear that ARB your worse than FIAT, not even sure how somebody does that but you did.
<a href="https://imgur.com/DD1kRYx"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/DD1kRYxl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

also as expected you will have to deal with micro rock hard o-ring and mini brass washer that will disappear and yes I lost one o-ring. did I mention they are rock hard?
<a href="https://imgur.com/4JIxe56"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4JIxe56l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

but once your done and get over your amazement at how much of a pain the air part of the ARB lockers are... nah I'm not over it, the air part of the ARB lockers could be worse but not by much they did a terrific job at making it a one star deal. no complaints about the locker part just the air part.

<a href="https://imgur.com/8TszNIM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8TszNIMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>