1997 SR 5 Aftermarket Key Fob/Doors Won't Lock

[EveningCommuter]

Hello!

I recently purchased an Aftermarket Key Fob (Link Below) from eBay. I followed all the instructions but cannot get it to work.

When I program the alarm for the key I get either one of two things. I get an endless alarm that I cannot get to stop unless I hold down the ECU button. Second is that the key fob seems programmed but when I pull the key from the ignition, close the door and try to open it, all I get is a long whine from the speaker for about 10 - 15 seconds.

Any way to fix this or am I missing a step?

ebay link: keyless remote entry car for FCC ID BAB237000-129 car key fob transmitter RS3000 | eBay


In addition to all the issues, when I am driving and I lock my driver side door, it forces all the locks in the car to open. It seems to me that the key fob is paired with the car but for some odd reason the locks are not engaging. I am going to disconnect the ECU later and see if that clears everything.

 

[wemslie97]

Couple things weird about that eBay ad. It says for Scion but they weren't manufactured for some time after 1997 I believe. The fcc number matches mine but the fob looks different. Mine was purchased on eBay for $70 2 years ago but it has a Toyota logo and looks more like the original. Also, I don't believe the RS-3000 was ever factory installed. Dealer or port only. I think dealer mostly. Sorry this doesn't help much but I suggest returning it. Only because the ad seems misleading.

 

[eddielasvegas]

I had a similar problem on my 2001 and for the life of me cannot add a second key fob.

A Toyota dealer told me the ECU can only store four (4) fobs and that might explain why it is not working.

The dealer said it can be zeroed out, but that'll cost about $200. I decided to live with one key fob for now as much as I'd like to have a second fob.

Good luck,


Eddie

 

[EveningCommuter]

Thing is I messaged the seller with my FCC ID and the model of the 4Runner, the reply was the key fob I purchased. I tried clearing the memory on the ECU but still no luck. I can get it to work at one point but the alarm goes off like crazy, my guess it goes into panic mode? I will try it later on today.

If anything I will just call up my local dealer and see how much an OEM fob is. I do not mind spending a bit to get an OEM fob and peace of mind that it is going to work every time.

 

[T4topher]

Thing is I messaged the seller with my FCC ID and the model of the 4Runner, the reply was the key fob I purchased. I tried clearing the memory on the ECU but still no luck. I can get it to work at one point but the alarm goes off like crazy, my guess it goes into panic mode? I will try it later on today.

If anything I will just call up my local dealer and see how much an OEM fob is. I do not mind spending a bit to get an OEM fob and peace of mind that it is going to work every time.

I got a used oem fob on eBay then got the AJT case (if your worried about how old it looks lol.) It was only 12$, works great.

 

[eddielasvegas]

How did you clear your ECU memory?

I thought only a dealer can do that.

Please keep us updated.


Eddie

Thing is I messaged the seller with my FCC ID and the model of the 4Runner, the reply was the key fob I purchased. I tried clearing the memory on the ECU but still no luck. I can get it to work at one point but the alarm goes off like crazy, my guess it goes into panic mode? I will try it later on today.

If anything I will just call up my local dealer and see how much an OEM fob is. I do not mind spending a bit to get an OEM fob and peace of mind that it is going to work every time.

 

[EveningCommuter]

Hey!

By clearing ECU Memory, I meant the feature that erases all codes.

 

[EveningCommuter]

Still can't get it to work.

I also can't lock my doors with the switch while driving.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=294709]EveningCommuter[/MENTION],
Is your controller under drivers seat?
System model number is on controller, RS3200 used 96-98, RS3000 99-2k
My 96 had the RS3200 which uses the FCC ID BAB237131-022 black case two button.
According to fleabay link they sold you/you bought the wrong FCC ID Fob.
Bought 96red in 2k no fob's got one from dealer around $80 programmed myself.

 

[EveningCommuter]

[MENTION=294709]EveningCommuter[/MENTION],
Is your controller under drivers seat?
System model number is on controller, RS3200 used 96-98, RS3000 99-2k
My 96 had the RS3200 which uses the FCC ID BAB237131-022 black case two button.
According to fleabay link they sold you/you bought the wrong FCC ID Fob.
Bought 96red in 2k no fob's got one from dealer around $80.

I will have to double check, if that is the case then I will buy the correct fob.

 

[wemslie97]

[MENTION=294709]EveningCommuter[/MENTION],
Is your controller under drivers seat?
System model number is on controller, RS3200 used 96-98, RS3000 99-2k
My 96 had the RS3200 which uses the FCC ID BAB237131-022 black case two button.
According to fleabay link they sold you/you bought the wrong FCC ID Fob.
Bought 96red in 2k no fob's got one from dealer around $80 programmed myself.

It's my understanding that this is backwards. The early models had the RS 3000 with the black fob two button remote. One of the buttons was for a second 4Runner and was useless otherwise.. The 99 and up models had the RS 3200 which had the gray remote fob with two buttons. The second button on that remote worked the rear window. The two systems may have been used at the same time I'm different vehicles. I'm not sure on that.

 

[96RedRunner]

It's my understanding that this is backwards. The early models had the RS 3000 with the black fob two button remote. One of the buttons was for a second 4Runner and was useless otherwise.. The 99 and up models had the RS 3200 which had the gray remote fob with two buttons. The second button on that remote worked the rear window. The two systems may have been used at the same time I'm different vehicles. I'm not sure on that.

You could be correct on the 3000 vs 3200, link I looked at earlier today is locked and pay, thats happening alot since forum crash.
The info I posted was from that site, just repeating what it said.
Actually if controller is under seat it's a VIP system port installed info on it.
The FCC ID I posted is what worked, research 18 yr ago lead me to it.
My 01 uses HYQ1512Y black 3 button red panic on back.
IIRC gray fob - camry for sure not 4runner I had.

 

[EveningCommuter]

I picked up the Black Fob last week. I get a chirp when I hit a button. I am going to unplug the ECU for a bit and try it again. I am also going to try and reseat the Power Lock connector that goes to the ECU. If that does not work either then I am going to return the Fob and go to the dealer. :/

 

[WWRD99]

In addition to all the issues, when I am driving and I lock my driver side door, it forces all the locks in the car to open.

My 97 did this too...for me to get it to stop unlocking the doors, I had to use the key in the drivers door lock, to lock and unlock the doors a few times...when I'd lock it, all the doors locked,,,then one turn only counterclockwise, the drivers door should unlock, second turn then the other three unlock...it took a few times doing this to get the system to not unlock all the doors at one turn...it's that key in the igntion closing the door so you don't lock your keys in the car safety hooplah...yes even when your driving,,,it doesn't know your driving.
I can't help with the remote thing but I do wonder if the lock/safety might be messing with the fob pid.

 

[eddielasvegas]

Thanks for the update.

Let us know how it goes.


Eddie

I picked up the Black Fob last week. I get a chirp when I hit a button. I am going to unplug the ECU for a bit and try it again. I am also going to try and reseat the Power Lock connector that goes to the ECU. If that does not work either then I am going to return the Fob and go to the dealer. :/

 

[EveningCommuter]

Just a quick update. I looked under the bottom left panel under the steering wheel and saw that the connector was modified. There were some cables being held together by electrical tape. I came to the conclusion that when I hit the top button of my remote the piezo chirp/whine goes off, it is a constant whine for about 10 seconds. Now if that is the case then piezo was rewired in place of the power locks. Anyway to fix this or could any Car Alarm/Stereo Place be able to fix this?

If I had a wiring diagram I would be able to re-crimp/rewire the harness but I have had no luck in finding one. I did however find a pin out but I do not know where it starts.

 

[heat]

Spend $20 for 2 days' access to manuals specific to your truck (so they say).

 

[EveningCommuter]

So they say haha.

Best thing I can do right now is try and color match with a wiring diagram I found.

Taken from Rav4World by @Sbagdon

Awesome, thanks! Looks like I figured out the loose wires on the first try:

parking lights (-) = "Tail Light Wire" (figure they really mean parking, so all 4 corners light up)
horn trigger (+) = "Horn Wire" (make lots of noise)
key sensor = "Key Unlock Warning Wire" ("set key to on", which is really column is unlocked)

Here's the three connectors to the '96 RS3000 ECU:

Loose Wires
Light Green - Parking Lights (+)
Green/Red - Horn Trigger (+)
Blue/Black - Key Sensor
Grey - Antenna
Red - Piezo (+)
Black - Piezo (-)

Left 10-block
1 - Blue/Yellow - Power Door Unlock (-)
2 - Blue/White - Power Door Lock (-)
3 - Red - Piezo (+) (?)
4 - Yellow - Glass Sensor (?)
5 - Blue/Black - Unlock Warning Switch
6 - N/C
7 - N/C
8 - N/C
9 - White/Black - Glass Sensor (-)
10 - Red - Glass Sensor (+)

Middle 10-block
1 - Black/White - Starter Relay (to)
2 - White/Black - Ground (-) shared
3 - Red/Yellow - Door Trigger (-) (Front Doors)
4 - Red/White - Door Trigger (-) (Rear Doors and Rear Hatch)
5 - Blue/Yellow - Interior Light (+)
6 - Black/White - Starter Ground (from)
7 - Light Green - Parking Lights (+)
8 - Green/Red - Horn Trigger (+)
9 - Brown - Status LED (+)
10 - Red/Blue - Power (+)

Right 4-block
1 - Gray - Antenna
2 - N/C
3 - N/C
4 - N/C

If I'm reading all of this correctly... if all you want is keyless-remote functionality (alarm functionality not a requirement), just junction in the brown & blue plugs, and manually ground the blue/black wire when you want to program the ecu. The rest of the leads are nice-to-haves, yet not required for keyless-remote-entry.

 

[EveningCommuter]

So that diagram is no help at all. I am just going to go to the dealer. :/

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=294709]EveningCommuter[/MENTION], You mentioned picking up black fob what FCC ID is on it?
There is more than one black 2 button fob with different ID's.
If you matched wire for wire with repairs, could still be fob ID.
Dealer is going to rape you on this.
RS3000 Toyota Vehicle Intrusion Protection
found this in some files I have.
Toyota customer service can also tell you by VIN what you have and need.