Proud new 4runner owner. Bought a 1997, 4cyl, 5 spd, 4x4, 212k from a friend, who had cared for it. The month before I bought it it had a stuck valve, so an indy shop fixed the valve and adjusted the others (I don't know the exact details since I didn't own it). Ever since (according to the previous owner) it has warm start problems. If the engine is warm, and it sits 15+ minutes, it will take about 6 or 7 turns of the starter to start it. Normally it starts after 1-2 turns. Maybe these two things (the valve repair and the warm start) aren't related. It always starts, but it puts strain on the starter. It has new wires, coils, and has recently had seafoam through it. Any suggestions? Is it possible fuel is vaporizing ... or leaking? (we are in Denver area). Thanks. RIck
1997 warm start problems
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I'd give the valve clearances another look. By your own words someone's been in there; was the surgery done correctly? All sutures done? All sponges accounted for?
On the 4-cylinder checking clearances is relatively easy to do, compared with the V6. Furthermore, checking the clearances, as opposed to actually adjusting them, requires no special tools.
A valve - and it'll probably be an exhaust valve - at 0 clearance would cause the problem you've seen. Starts OK cold because it has compression, but is difficult to start when hot because now the valve has a slight bit of negative clearance and thus drops compression. (And this is why the 4-cylinder 3RZ has a reputation, deserved or not, of burning valves.)
Alternatively, do a compression check cold and another hot and see if the numbers decrease. This is easier than pulling the valve cover.
On the 4-cylinder checking clearances is relatively easy to do, compared with the V6. Furthermore, checking the clearances, as opposed to actually adjusting them, requires no special tools.
A valve - and it'll probably be an exhaust valve - at 0 clearance would cause the problem you've seen. Starts OK cold because it has compression, but is difficult to start when hot because now the valve has a slight bit of negative clearance and thus drops compression. (And this is why the 4-cylinder 3RZ has a reputation, deserved or not, of burning valves.)
Alternatively, do a compression check cold and another hot and see if the numbers decrease. This is easier than pulling the valve cover.
stir_fry_boy
New member
Check the IAC valve. Maybe plugged up
Thanks for the help. Work demands has slowed my ability to make progress on it, but we are after it. It is now throwing a P0303 code for a misfiring 3rd cylinder. The shop replaced both 3rd cylinder exhaust valves.
I saw the work order for the valve job from the shop and I was a little surprised to see that there was no machine shop charge. I am a newbie at this. If a shop replaced 2 exhaust valves would there be a machine shop charge? Would they true the head? Test the other valves? Or just put the new valves in? In a standard valve job would they test compression after the work to be sure everything is OK?
We are bringing it in tonight and the shop is going to look at it. I'm just trying to get educated as to what standard protocol would look like in a job like this. Thanks. Rick
I saw the work order for the valve job from the shop and I was a little surprised to see that there was no machine shop charge. I am a newbie at this. If a shop replaced 2 exhaust valves would there be a machine shop charge? Would they true the head? Test the other valves? Or just put the new valves in? In a standard valve job would they test compression after the work to be sure everything is OK?
We are bringing it in tonight and the shop is going to look at it. I'm just trying to get educated as to what standard protocol would look like in a job like this. Thanks. Rick
Misfiring 3rd I swap the plugs and wire and see if it fixes #3. If no I would look into that injectors and valve. Try to start with the easiest and cheapest parts and work your way up.
davidch was right. After I posted it started to throw a P0303 code for a misfire in the third cylinder, which was the one that had the bad exhaust valves that prompted the repair.
we brought it to the shop. they said the clearance was too small on one of the new exhaust valves. it now idles much better, and it isn't (as of yet) throwing a "check engine" code.
however, the warm start isn't a ton better. It might be one or two revolutions of the starter better, but it isn't like when it is cold. I'll drive it and see how things go. I'll also try to clean the IAC. welcome to other ideas. thanks! rick
we brought it to the shop. they said the clearance was too small on one of the new exhaust valves. it now idles much better, and it isn't (as of yet) throwing a "check engine" code.
however, the warm start isn't a ton better. It might be one or two revolutions of the starter better, but it isn't like when it is cold. I'll drive it and see how things go. I'll also try to clean the IAC. welcome to other ideas. thanks! rick
St Runner
Member
I would check fuel pressure and your ground. My 99 tacoma 4cyl 5speed had long starts but when both hot and cold. I followed a thread on TTORA where he ran extra #6 wire to the frame and then to the ground bolt on the bottom of the engine and my starting time was cut in half. A couple of ways to check your ground; if you normally take 7 turns before it fires, crank it for 4 and let of the key. If it fires as soon as you let off the starter it is probably your ground The other way to check is find a hill and bump start it in second gear, then stop and crank start it. if it fires as soon as you drop the clutch but still takes a while when you crank it you should upgrade your ground, besides it is a lot easier than trying to replace the fuel filter on a 3RZ!