1biker’s ’97 SR5 Timeline and Journey

1biker

New member
This won’t be a “Build Thread” in the typical sense, but more of a way to document a journey, both in terms of the vehicle and where the vehicle takes us. I don't really have an end goal for this truck. It will be an evolution.

I purchased this 1997 SR5, 4x4, V6, Auto on March 20, 2017 with 72,403 miles. This truck was completely stock outside of a Sony Mini-disc deck and CD changer and aftermarket security system. I am the third owner of this PNW T4R. First owner owned the vehicle from new until late-2016 where it was traded in on a newer Inifiniti at a local high end used dealer. Second owner was the General Manager of said dealership. He purchased the vehicle from the dealership to give to his daughter for her first vehicle, with one contingency, she had to get good grades to get the 4Runner. Luckily for me, she didn't and he posted it on Craigslist.

When I purchased the vehicle I was looking for a new/used vehicle to support our outdoor lifestyle, lots of mountain biking, skiing, camping and hiking. I wasn't specifically looking for a T4R. Friends had owned them throughout the years and I always loved the look of the 3rd Gen's. I knew what they were incredibly reliable and a solid platform for whatever you wanted them to be. A friend of mine was helping me look for vehicles when he stumbled across the ad. As soon as I saw it, I knew that a 3rd Gen was the perfect next vehicle, and this one was a rare, very low mileage, unmolested and clean example. She was mine, let the infatuation and spending begin!

This forum has been an incredible community to be a part of. Makes owning this great truck even better! Thank you all!

As bought:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32840000098/in/dateposted-public/" title="As Bought"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7876/32840000098_3ab7781aa8_z.jpg" width="640" height="423" alt="As Bought"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>


Current:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/44693699234/in/dateposted-public/" title="20181018_170657"><img src="https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1944/44693699234_37c2d50eee_b.jpg" width="1024" height="576" alt="20181018_170657"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

List of Mods, all completed by myself:

72,500mi - WeatherTech Floormats and Hood Defector
72,800mi - 199mm TBU upgrade with Stainless Steel Brake Lines
72,800mi - B&M External Transmission Radiator added
77,041mi - Riverside Seat Foams replaced - OEM
79,215mi - Rigid Industries Foglights
79,905mi - Rear Cargo Auxiliary Dome Lights added
79,951mi - White LEDs added to Front Dome Lights so they light up when doors open, Added Red LEDs behind Front Dome Switches for easy locating with dark cabin
80,656mi - Installed Blue Sea Auxiliary Fuse Box, USB Power at Center Console, 12V and USB Power ran to Rear Cargo, relocated Rear Window Switch to Dash
81,005mi - Alpine Headunit and Amp, ScanGauge2
81,835mi - SRQ Fab HID Headlights and Corner Markers


List of Maintenance, all completed by myself:

Brakes, Suspension, Tires and Driveline:

72,354mi - Bridgestone Duelers 265/70R16
72,800mi - 199mm TBU upgrade. RockAuto, should have gone OEM, Calipers rusted instantly.
72,858mi - Front and Rear Diff, Transfer Case and AT Fluid changed.
73,058mi - Front Shocks and Mounts replaced - all OEM. Power Steering Fluid Changed.
73,198mi - Rear Shocks and Mounts replaced - all OEM.
73,198mi - Driveline U-Joints and Slip Yokes greased
73,938mi - Front Sway Bar and Steering Rack Bushings replaced. Energy Suspension blacks
74,532mi - Huge Job! Rear Axle Seals, Bearings and all necessary seals - all OEM. Rear Shoes Replaced - all OEM. Added Stainless Steel Brake Line. Rear Sway Bar Bushings replaced - Energy Suspension blacks. Rear Diff breather and Fluid changed. OTRE and LBJs replaced - all OEM.
79,983mi - Front Sway Bar Links replaced - OEM. Steering Rack Bearing, Spring, Cap and Locknut replaced - all OEM.
84,094mi - UBJs replaced - OEM

Engine Mechanical:

72,858mi - New Spark Plugs, Plug Wires and Fuel Filter - all OEM. Throttle body and MAF cleaned.
73,938mi - Huge Job! Timing Belt and Valve Cover Seals. Timing Belt, Water Pump, Thermostat, Idler Pulley, Tensioner, Tensioner Pulley, Oil Dipstick O-Ring, Crank and Cam Seals, Valve Cover Gaskets, Spark Plug tube seals, Cam Plugs and Half Moons, Upper and Lower Intake manifold Gaskets, Upper and Lower Radiator hoses, Oil Cooler O-Ring and Washer, Oil Cooler coolant lines, PS, ALT and AC Belts replaced - all OEM. Coolant flushed - Toyota Red.
75,534mi - Up and Downstream 02 Sensors replaced - Denso.
77,041mi - Radiator and Alternator replaced - both OEM.

Huge shout out to all the members here that make their trucks their own, do their own wrenching and share their experiences. I really want to thank @mtbtim for all his videos and how-to's, habanero for her all writes ups and mods and BigFishAllDay for detailing all his adventures. Large amounts of time and care goes into their postings, thanks to them for setting incredible examples!
 
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Small Mods

Magnet Mod
Hate your key fob swinging around? I simply attached a Neodymiuim magnet behind the lower cover in the area of the fob. The battery in my fob is attracted to the magnet and no longer flops around. Simple, cheap and effective.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662285692/in/dateposted-public/" title="key_fob"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/46662285692_5c645d6074_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="key_fob"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Backlight Front Map Light Switches
Added Red LEDs that are tied to Ignition On (always lite) behind Front Map Light Switches. No more hunting for the switches in the dark.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714908371/in/dateposted-public/" title="Backlit Dome Switches"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7802/46714908371_6cc36821e0_z.jpg" width="640" height="312" alt="Backlit Dome Switches"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Rear Cargo Lights
Added two LED Lights into the Rear Cargo Panel, these lights are on their own Switch but are tied to the function of the stock Cargo Dome Light operation. I had to try numerous models of lights to find the right set that I could sneak just right into the existing cutouts in the body sheetmetal, without any modifications :cool:.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662285852/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cargo Lights2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4880/46662285852_3607933522_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="Cargo Lights2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907891/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cargo Lights1"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4807/46714907891_3607933522_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Cargo Lights1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Auxiliary Fuse Box under Driver's Seat
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32840000028/in/dateposted-public/" title="Blue Sea"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/32840000028_c23e452fb6_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Blue Sea"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Center Console Switches: USB Power added, Rear Window moved to Dash
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907741/in/dateposted-public/" title="CenterConsole"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4830/46714907741_c67ddcb484_z.jpg" width="640" height="420" alt="CenterConsole"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Rear Cargo Power
West Marine USB and12V Combo Power Socket
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907351/in/dateposted-public/" title="Rear Cargo Power"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7821/46714907351_1e48203a98_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="Rear Cargo Power"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Obligatory ScanGaugeII
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662284952/in/dateposted-public/" title="ScanGauge"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4816/46662284952_8ff5be0c10_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="ScanGauge"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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that's a very good list of work and maintenance done. looks very clean. nicely done. keep up the good work.
 
that's a very good list of work and maintenance done. looks very clean. nicely done. keep up the good work.

Thanks! I've been stalking your thread for the past month or so, appears we are doing a lot of the same items! Next up for me is Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings and UBJs. Did you remove your Spindle Assy from the vehicle when pressing out the original UBJ or just rotated it enough to get necessary clearance to press it out?

Congrats on the valve cover job. That was a satisfying job for me. Found the valve train on mine to be a little sludgier/varnishy than I was hoping for though. Oh well, nothing some long trips, frequent oil changes and quality oil won't fix over time. Your's looks great!
 
Did you remove your Spindle Assy from the vehicle when pressing out the original UBJ or just rotated it enough to get necessary clearance to press it out?

thanks man, appreciate the shoutout!

so the quick story with my UBJ is as follows: I got the old one out while the spindle was attached via the CV axle and LBJ. (old UBJ came out very easily). spent 3 hrs trying to press the new one in with the service kit rented from Autozone. I just couldnt get the new UBJ lined up straight as the press was slightly bent (problem with renting well used equipment) . I ended up putting the old UBJ back in and going to a local shop and had them do it. they had an amazing small hydraulic press that self-aligned and pressed it in like butter, all while the spindle was still on the truck.

do you have any info on your rear cargo lights? I like that alot
 
they had an amazing small hydraulic press that self-aligned and pressed it in like butter, all while the spindle was still on the truck.

do you have any info on your rear cargo lights? I like that alot

That sounds like a nice tool to have...in my dreams! Since I'm going to be doing the whole enchilada I've been thinking just remove the Spindle Assy and use my hydraulic press on the UBJ but then again that means I need to remove the axle nut and muck with the CV. Haven't touched those so it's at least an opportunity to get familiar those and their design/construction. Decisions.

Regarding the lights, here are the ones I bought. I modified a couple spade terminals and tapped on to the Dome Light "leads" that exist as part of the Dome Light circuit, the sheetmetal "traces" are nearly identical width to the Spades. The hot lead goes into a 2.5A fuse then into the two-pole Switch and then to the lights. I am pleased with the mod and will eventually go back and improve the execution/connection. My Front Map Lights are wired in the same manner. All my interior dome circuit lights are LED so the current demands are very low, I had no concerns about tapping into the Dome Lights in the manner I did.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907801/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cargo Lights5"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7907/46714907801_3607933522_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Cargo Lights5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32839999778/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cargo Lights4"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4850/32839999778_4a6dee0f03_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="Cargo Lights4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907831/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cargo Lights3"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7828/46714907831_61a90f4b55_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="Cargo Lights3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Digging this build and the clean and functional mods. Never seen the dome lights done in LEDS before and definately want to try this on my rig. Looking forward to seeing where this one goes!
 
... I need to remove the axle nut and muck with the CV. Haven't touched those so it's at least an opportunity to get familiar those and their design/construction.

do this! great learning experience, and you will save yourself SOOO much hassle.

thanks for the link, pictures would be awesome! I plan on doing this.
 
Added pictures to the original post. Let me know if you have any questions. The light output is huge. I original didn't have them on their own Switch, just straight tied into the Dome Circuit. They were too bright to see every time a door was opened, so I put them on their own Switch.
 
Added pictures to the original post. Let me know if you have any questions. The light output is huge. I original didn't have them on their own Switch, just straight tied into the Dome Circuit. They were too bright to see every time a door was opened, so I put them on their own Switch.

ya man those are great! thanks. im on the prowl for LEDs that arent quite as bright
 
Thanks for the kind comments guys.

@infamousrnr - My mods are centering around being functional for how I currently use the vehicle. I would love to go crazy with bumpers and a lift etc (because they look sick!) but at the moment I wouldn't be using them, so they would just kill my mpgs and wallet. I'm getting the itch to build a cargo solution, I have some cool ideas I haven't seen on other peoples builds, like hidden pullout/popout tables or tool storage. Probably wait until summer for that project though.
 
Any chance of more detailed info on the map light switch back lighting. I dig those!

Little back story first. When I installed my Auxiliary Fuse Panel I ran a hot lead up to the rear view mirror area to power my V1 radar detector, future auto dimming mirror and for backlighting the Map Light Switches. My Auxiliary Fuse Panel is tied to ignition on. Thats why the Map Light Switches are always on, I didn't tie them to headlight or dimmer etc, unnecessary complication IMO.

These are the LEDs I used, one single Red for backlighting the Map Lights, two White each side in the Map Lights (barely visible as the yellow circle just beyond the Map Light Bulb in the 1st pic) that are tied to my dome circuit, in the same manner I detailed earlier for the Rear Cargo Lights. Pretty basic wiring from that point on. As you can see in the pics I used a piece of wax paper to act as a pseudo diffuser as the single Red LED is very bright and was too much when driving in the dark. Without having that additional hot lead present you would have to tap into sunroof power etc. Let me know if you have any other questions.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714908291/in/dateposted-public/" title="Backlit Dome Switches2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4896/46714908291_608247f057_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Backlit Dome Switches2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714908191/in/dateposted-public/" title="Backlit Dome Switches3"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4819/46714908191_c23e452fb6_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Backlit Dome Switches3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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As others have said, nice job so far! Love the color and really low mileage combo.

Also, good idea on running a hot wire up to the map light area. Finding a nearby switched 12v source was the hardest part for me when I installed a rearview mirror with homelink/compass/temperature.
 
UBJs and Hatch Struts

Did the UBJs yesterday. I decided to remove the entire Spindle and use my press instead of using the C-Clamp/Press technique. Ultimately it was more work to remove the Spindles but I'm glad I did as the old UBJs went out hard and the new ones went in hard. Probably would still be fighting with them now if I went the other route. After some road testing they have improved my slight steering wheel shake, bonus!
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/45799636775/in/dateposted-public/" title="UBJ"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/45799636775_bb138b5f90_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="UBJ"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Also replaced my aging Hatch Struts with StrongArm 6815 Struts. Install went without a hiccup and no more lifting the Hatch the last bit or bonking my head. Not sure why I waited so long on these.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662284782/in/dateposted-public/" title="StrongArm"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4866/46662284782_2e455f5a17_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="StrongArm"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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Installed SwissLink Box and Tie Down

Yesterday I picked up a medium size SwissLink Aluminum Box and installed a cable tie down to keep it restrained incase of an accident. Since buying the T4R I have had a fabric trunk tote thingy in the back to hold tools, recovery gear, shackle, shopping bags etc. I couldn't store the heavier items in the RH cargo spot because it would cause the panel to squeak like a madman so these small heavy items were not contained in any manner, hello projectile! Finally got around to changing that, just had to devise a way to hold the box down for safety and security. I wanted to be able to remove the box quickly, have it be lockable to the truck and have the hold down be easy to remove or out of the way entirely to not impede cargo space.

I lack metal working tools so I had to get creative. A Simpson Strong Tie holdown strap was used to span between the front cargo holdown points. Initially I purchased some galv steel gate hinges as I thought those would work well to hold the box down and also fold out of the way. I couldn't get the spacing to work out to use them without drilling a hole in the floor, and that wasn't going to happen! No holes being drilled in my truck! After sifting through my stash of misc hardware I came up with the cable tie down idea.

Holdown Strap attached at existing fastening locations:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714908081/in/dateposted-public/" title="BoxTieDown1"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/46714908081_506b516664_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="BoxTieDown1"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Cable is looped in cargo area, goes through carpet and then through holes in the holdout strap:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32840000008/in/dateposted-public/" title="BoxTieDown2"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7891/32840000008_17a948e9e8_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="BoxTieDown2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Cable Clamps:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714908001/in/dateposted-public/" title="BoxTieDown3"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4869/46714908001_cb301e2350_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="BoxTieDown3"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Inside of box, added the attachment locations and doublers:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32839999848/in/dateposted-public/" title="BoxTieDown5"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4892/32839999848_edf746cf1d_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="BoxTieDown5"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

End Result:
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32839999928/in/dateposted-public/" title="BoxTieDown4"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4916/32839999928_3c64d654e2_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="BoxTieDown4"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

With the box removed, the cable easily slips under mat and out of the way. All boxes checked!
 
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New Cat and Cupholder

When I bought the truck there was a rattle somewhere in the exhaust. Sounded like a heat shield or a rock stuck somewhere, thought it would be easy to find. Slowly I tracked it down to the catalytic converter, sadly within it. Truck has ran great and there was no codes, mileage was in the 18-21mpg range. Nothing indicating the cat was going bad.

Since the temps have increased and I'm enjoying windows down cruising the rattle has really got on my nerves. Enough was enough, time to replace the cat and get the truck sounding like it should. I ended up going with a Magnaflow bolt in unit after much searching and deliberating. OEM was just too costly in this case. After pulling the original cat I'm a bit bummed to find it in great condition, element is intact and even in color, only problem was something that rattles internally. Moved forward with the replacement anyway.

Once again my electric impact gun paid for itself. My truck is damn near corrosion free, everywhere, but yet again, same with every exhaust project on every older car, the fasteners are almost welded on! I bought replacement bolts, nuts and studs incase things stripped or backed out. Luckily the studs stayed put and were in great shape, just used the new nuts and bolts. Truck sounds a bit throatier now, hopefully I will see a small mpg bump too. See how long it lasts...

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/32839999758/in/dateposted-public/" title="Cat"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4876/32839999758_98b8123057_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Cat"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Also installed my BH3D Rear Cupholder, another rattle source eliminated!

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662285132/in/dateposted-public/" title="Rear Cup Holder"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4907/46662285132_63e5405807_z.jpg" width="360" height="640" alt="Rear Cup Holder"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The wife and I met up with some friends for a night of camping out at Scenic Beach. Great weekend for a drive and a campfire. As always the T4R looking good out in the woods.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46662284882/in/dateposted-public/" title="Scenic Beach2"><img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4888/46662284882_8ff5be0c10_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Scenic Beach2"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/166420868@N08/46714907241/in/dateposted-public/" title="Scenic Beach"><img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7875/46714907241_8ff5be0c10_z.jpg" width="640" height="360" alt="Scenic Beach"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
 
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