1st Oil Change...what a bust!

[Casper]

i guess ill stick with my old standby M1 then.

 

[Boaz]

i guess ill stick with my old standby M1 then.

Now we are getting somewhere...... now about this Amsoil.....

 

[Casper]

well..if amsoil is going to run me about the same as mobil1 or about a dollar more per quart...ill use it. Although ill be changing it at 3-5K mile intervals.

 

[Koz]

well..if amsoil is going to run me about the same as mobil1 or about a dollar more per quart...ill use it. Although ill be changing it at 3-5K mile intervals.

You can safely run Amsoil synthetic 10K miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. Don't waste your time and money.

Koz

 

[Casper]

Im sure that you can do it...in fact i have known people to do it. Although I dont see it as throwing money away...I change my oil in the m5 every 3K and changed the oil in the m3 every 10K and that oil went for 10/quart.

The m5 needs it though, as I dont take chances one bit with an engine that has that much money invested just into the buildup of it.

If amsoil goes for about $5.xx a quart....5K miles sounds like a great interval for me.



Now the fun begins on researching swapping diff fluids and brake fluids...

 

[Boaz]

Im sure that you can do it...in fact i have known people to do it. Although I dont see it as throwing money away...I change my oil in the m5 every 3K and changed the oil in the m3 every 10K and that oil went for 10/quart.

The m5 needs it though, as I dont take chances one bit with an engine that has that much money invested just into the buildup of it.

If amsoil goes for about $5.xx a quart....5K miles sounds like a great interval for me.



Now the fun begins on researching swapping diff fluids and brake fluids...

I am running amsoil fluids in everything on my 4runner except the tranny.
your brake fluid isnt old enought to be changed yet.

BTW, 5k intervals is total overkill but its not crazy either. I will post up my UOA with 5k on my Amsoil. I currently have 3k on my amsoil right now, so I need another month or so of driving before take a sample. I am also doing an experiment with my K and N drop in. I did a oil analysis with 5k on the stock air filter and now I am doing 5k on the K and N, just to see the differnce in dirt particles in my oil. I feel like tossing the K and N right now, but I want to PROVE my theory on K and N filters.

I plan on samling oil again at 10k to compare it to my base line. If it looks good I will change the oil filter and push it to 15K.

only time and miles will tell.

 

[Koz]

I am running amsoil fluids in everything on my 4runner except the tranny.
your brake fluid isnt old enought to be changed yet.

BTW, 5k intervals is total overkill but its not crazy either. I will post up my UOA with 5k on my Amsoil. I currently have 3k on my amsoil right now, so I need another month or so of driving before take a sample. I am also doing an experiment with my K and N drop in. I did a oil analysis with 5k on the stock air filter and now I am doing 5k on the K and N, just to see the differnce in dirt particles in my oil. I feel like tossing the K and N right now, but I want to PROVE my theory on K and N filters.

I plan on samling oil again at 10k to compare it to my base line. If it looks good I will change the oil filter and push it to 15K.

only time and miles will tell.

I'm running the TRD drop-in air filter, much better quality then K&N. Will see how well it works with next sample.

Why do you want to toss the K&N?

Koz

Koz

 

[Boaz]

my hunch is the K and N is letting alot of dirt in my engine. I will compare when I get the UOA done. The Stock filter was brand new in my first UOA, the K and N was used but not used for long like 6-8k. The k and N has never been cleaned since it was new. I hope that the Silicon content will let me know if the K and N is filtering the fine particle out. IMO there is zero performance difference with the K and N drop in filter. I like the way my stock air filter sounds at WOT during a shift. It had a audible growl when the trans shifted at WOT. Now the K and N sounds some what louder at WOT but when it shifts the "growl" is less audible. Now we all know that growl is the intake/throttle body sucking air, and the K and N sounds weak compared to the Stock.... maybe its just me or my truck, but I notice no gains in power or mileage. If the silicon levels are close I will keep it and use it. But if it is letting lots of crap in the engine, I will toss it and stick with stock. I plan on keepin ole blue for a long time and dont want to F up the engine with the K and N. But of course I will post up results when I get the UOA performed. Should be around the end of July when I pull the sample.

 

[Casper]

good lordy, you all and oil anal's....Ive never been on board where so many people have them done.

As for the brakes, im going to swap (down the road a bit..like 5K miles total) the brake fluid for some ATE Typ200 (dot 5) and run some stainless steel lines to stiffen the pedal a bit. The shorter the pedal travel and the harder the pedal, the better i like em. Im used to the BMW's brakes and the 4r's feel alot like that but I still have always swapped out fluid for something more upgraded...

hence my search for oil, and diff fluid and all

 

[Koz]

good lordy, you all and oil anal's....Ive never been on board where so many people have them done.

As for the brakes, im going to swap (down the road a bit..like 5K miles total) the brake fluid for some ATE Typ200 (dot 5) and run some stainless steel lines to stiffen the pedal a bit. The shorter the pedal travel and the harder the pedal, the better i like em. Im used to the BMW's brakes and the 4r's feel alot like that but I still have always swapped out fluid for something more upgraded...

hence my search for oil, and diff fluid and all

Do yourself a favor and DO NOT use DOT 5 brake fluid. DOT 3 and DOT 4 are glycol-based fluids, and DOT 5 is silicon-based. Silicone brake fluid it is not compatible with regular brake fluid. It could deteriorate seals in the brake system that that are not designed for silicone. Silicone brake fluid is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. Silicone brake fluid is NOT recommended for most vehicle equipped with antilock brakes, STAY AWAY! Use the recommended OEM brake fluid rating!

Koz

 

[Casper]

I screwed up and typed 5 when i should have typed 4... ATE Typ 200 is a dot 4 not a 5. That was my typing error.

 

[TRD04RUNNER]

The k and N has never been cleaned since it was new.

That is not TRUE jake I clean and re oil it when I sold it to you. even know it was not that dirt. I cant Waite to see your next oil analysis with the k&N drop in. and for RP oil what the heck kind of oil is that?? the 3 best oil out their I would use is:

(1) Mobil 1 (easy to get)
(2) Amsoil
(3) Redline


noting else!

RP oil is it really purple?

 

[Boaz]

Oh you did clean it? Ok,... I will note that in the results..

Jake