2.7 Mods.....

[ralatkins]

it's been a long time since i've posted anything, but I am finally in a position to do some work on my 97 runner. it is a 2.7 ltr, 5 speed manual with 99 tall springs, rancho shocks, bridgestone duelers and the deckplate mod.

I am wanting to squeeze a little more power out of my little four banger. any suggestions besides headers and exhaust (they are on the way, LC engineering with magnaflow cat and exhaust). all help will be appreciated.

 

[MDST]

If you don't want to put a SC, there are some good things that you can put:

2RZ/3RZ 8-Port Intake Performance Package

Unichip Automotive Performance

I have those in my Prado 3RZ ( and headers, Muffler Magnaflow straight-through, FIPK K&N ). I did not want to put a SC so I wanted to try something different and I'm very happy with them.

Cheers

 

[ralatkins]

If you don't want to put a SC, there are some good things that you can put:

2RZ/3RZ 8-Port Intake Performance Package


I have those in my Prado 3RZ ( and headers, Muffler Magnaflow straight-through, FIPK K&N ). I did not want to put a SC so I wanted to try something different and I'm very happy with them.

Cheers

noticeable difference with that lc kit?

 

[MDST]

noticeable difference with that lc kit?

My dyno results with FIPK K&N, headers, Muffler, LC intake performance package ( no inyectors because it was not necessary ), Unichip Q:


RWHP
Before 97 RWHp
After 122 RWHp
Gain 25 RWHp

Steering Wheel
Before 144,6 Hp
After 183 Hp
Gain 38,4 Hp

Torque
Before 167 ft.lb.
After 225 ft.lb.
Gain 58 ft.lb.

Best of all: The maximum torque reaches at 1500rpm and still up to 4000 RPM. Then slowly begins to fall from 5000 RPM.

Like all motors, the more they run the lower the Hp numbers get. My 3RZ have 41250 miles. 150 Hp stock minus drivetrain loss would be about 115 RWHp. Should be that way but I don't know why my 3RZ have that before RWHp numbers ( if someone could tell me what might be happening I would appreciate. My tires are 235/85/16 ). The amount of torque now is quite remarkable!!

For me, the change is very noticiable!

I hope this helps! Cheers

 

[Mf Baker]

My dyno results with FIPK K&N, headers, Muffler, LC intake performance package ( no inyectors because it was not necessary ), Unichip Q:


RWHP
Before 97 RWHp
After 122 RWHp
Gain 25 RWHp

Steering Wheel
Before 144,6 Hp
After 183 Hp
Gain 38,4 Hp

Torque
Before 167 ft.lb.
After 225 ft.lb.
Gain 58 ft.lb.

Best of all: The maximum torque reaches at 1500rpm and still up to 4000 RPM. Then slowly begins to fall from 5000 RPM.

Like all motors, the more they run the lower the Hp numbers get. My 3RZ have 41250 miles. 150 Hp stock minus drivetrain loss would be about 115 RWHp. Should be that way but I don't know why my 3RZ have that before RWHp numbers ( if someone could tell me what might be happening I would appreciate. My tires are 235/85/16 ). The amount of torque now is quite remarkable!!

For me, the change is very noticiable!

I hope this helps! Cheers

thats a nice setup and nice numbers. did you do any headwork to help maximize the intake and headers? also how thick of a head gasket are you running? with a mild cam and some head work i bet you could see a good bit more power, and reliably.

im not sure of the stock tb size, but for those kinds of mods 4mm is not that much. i bet you would benefit from a larger aftermarket tb, you should be running a 70mm+ for sure with that setup. at that point you might find you could benefit from the extra injectors. :frog:


you are making me want to switch to a 4 cyl man. with $4k into that you could have as much power as the sc v6, lol! what kind of mpg do you get with your current setup?

 

[maxspeed96ct]

My dyno results with FIPK K&N, headers, Muffler, LC intake performance package ( no inyectors because it was not necessary ), Unichip Q:


RWHP
Before 97 RWHp
After 122 RWHp
Gain 25 RWHp

Steering Wheel
Before 144,6 Hp
After 183 Hp
Gain 38,4 Hp

Torque
Before 167 ft.lb.
After 225 ft.lb.
Gain 58 ft.lb.

Best of all: The maximum torque reaches at 1500rpm and still up to 4000 RPM. Then slowly begins to fall from 5000 RPM.

Like all motors, the more they run the lower the Hp numbers get. My 3RZ have 41250 miles. 150 Hp stock minus drivetrain loss would be about 115 RWHp. Should be that way but I don't know why my 3RZ have that before RWHp numbers ( if someone could tell me what might be happening I would appreciate. My tires are 235/85/16 ). The amount of torque now is quite remarkable!!

For me, the change is very noticiable!

I hope this helps! Cheers

awsome numbers, wish I could do the same with my 4runner. Headers might be in my near future but that intake manifold is alot of money.
Is there a site that sells it for less?

also what other options do we have besides the unichip ?

Apexi safc or vafc is alot cheaper and should balance out a/f the same way.
Could it work ?

 

[MDST]

thats a nice setup and nice numbers. did you do any headwork to help maximize the intake and headers? also how thick of a head gasket are you running? with a mild cam and some head work i bet you could see a good bit more power, and reliably.

im not sure of the stock tb size, but for those kinds of mods 4mm is not that much. i bet you would benefit from a larger aftermarket tb, you should be running a 70mm+ for sure with that setup. at that point you might find you could benefit from the extra injectors. :frog:


you are making me want to switch to a 4 cyl man. with $4k into that you could have as much power as the sc v6, lol! what kind of mpg do you get with your current setup?

Thank you MF!!

No, I have not done any head work but I'm gonna take your advice to do that in the future. I don't remember the thick of the head gasket. I'll tell you later!

Mmm I thought the same about the tb, but I couldn't find a larger one.

With $4K?? What kind of things you say for more power?? That's a lot of money!

That's the beauty of inline engines ( 3RZ, 1FZ, etc ). You can make good extra engine mods.

Most people think, it is throwing money doing this kind of mods. I don't think so at all and I want to see how far I can go without having to put a turbo or sc.

I never worry about MPG for economy purposes because gasoline here in my country is very very cheap. Also my truck have a 90L gas tank.

Cheers

 

[MDST]

awsome numbers, wish I could do the same with my 4runner. Headers might be in my near future but that intake manifold is alot of money.
Is there a site that sells it for less?

also what other options do we have besides the unichip ?

Apexi safc or vafc is alot cheaper and should balance out a/f the same way.
Could it work ?

The headers worth it for sure. Go get them! LC have good ones.

I don't know who sells for less that kind of products. I maybe believe Paradise Racing but I'm sure they are more expensive.

Any of these piggyback should serve. Here is another option:

PerfectPower

Cheers

 

[Mf Baker]

Thank you MF!!

No, I have not done any head work but I'm gonna take your advice to do that in the future. I don't remember the thick of the head gasket. I'll tell you later!

Mmm I thought the same about the tb, but I couldn't find a larger one.

With $4K?? What kind of things you say for more power?? That's a lot of money!

That's the beauty of inline engines ( 3RZ, 1FZ, etc ). You can make good extra engine mods.

Most people think, it is throwing money doing this kind of mods. I don't think so at all and I want to see how far I can go without having to put a turbo or sc.

I never worry about MPG for economy purposes because gasoline here in my country is very very cheap. Also my truck have a 90L gas tank.

Cheers

yeah, the headwork will open up a lot of power i bet. even just a minor port is gonna be noticable. also depending on your header, if its 1.5 inch runners you might even want to go up to 1.75 runners eventually, maybe even 2 depending how much more flow you give it.

yeah, the tb you are gonna have to run an aftermarket most likely. sort of a hassle at first, but sorth it. i looked at some dynos of honda h22 2.2 litre engines, and people are having good gains on an n/a 2.2 by going up to a 70mm+ tb, seeing as you have a 2.7 with mods i would say you want like a 75mm tb at least. you might be able to research and find one from a new toyota, but an aftermarket might be easier.

haha, when i said $4k i meant that with $4-5k into this engine you can be making similar power to the v6, and likely have better mpg. intake kit, head work, headers, intake, larger tb, ecu, and a cam should be right in there somewhere. considering the numbers already and the room you still have to work with this engine is putting the 5vz to shame, lol!

i think its a great use of money. well done!

where do you live???

 

[ralatkins]

all of that information helps a ton! now i KNOW what i'll be doing to mine. looking for a spare 2.7 ltr now so i can get started on a rebuild, then the mods can start.

a new cam sounds like a must as well. i was thinking about a slight bore as well.

this has got me spending money...... lol. oh well.....

 

[MDST]

yeah, the headwork will open up a lot of power i bet. even just a minor port is gonna be noticable. also depending on your header, if its 1.5 inch runners you might even want to go up to 1.75 runners eventually, maybe even 2 depending how much more flow you give it.

yeah, the tb you are gonna have to run an aftermarket most likely. sort of a hassle at first, but sorth it. i looked at some dynos of honda h22 2.2 litre engines, and people are having good gains on an n/a 2.2 by going up to a 70mm+ tb, seeing as you have a 2.7 with mods i would say you want like a 75mm tb at least. you might be able to research and find one from a new toyota, but an aftermarket might be easier.

haha, when i said $4k i meant that with $4-5k into this engine you can be making similar power to the v6, and likely have better mpg. intake kit, head work, headers, intake, larger tb, ecu, and a cam should be right in there somewhere. considering the numbers already and the room you still have to work with this engine is putting the 5vz to shame, lol!

i think its a great use of money. well done!

where do you live???

Hello Mf!! I'm from Venezuela.

I will investigate to make the headwork first. Headwork can be done in a day?

I'm thinking about the delete balance shaft mod. Some people have good gains deleting balance shafts and avoid a failure that occurs in the bearings.

Will see!! Cheers and thank you for your really good advices!!

 

[MDST]

all of that information helps a ton! now i KNOW what i'll be doing to mine. looking for a spare 2.7 ltr now so i can get started on a rebuild, then the mods can start.

a new cam sounds like a must as well. i was thinking about a slight bore as well.

this has got me spending money...... lol. oh well.....

A new thread will be nice for that rebuild :hungry:

 

[ralatkins]

A new thread will be nice for that rebuild :hungry:

i will most certainly do that. it will be a long process, working on it as funds allow but i am excited and the saving has begun!

 

[Mf Baker]

Hello Mf!! I'm from Venezuela.

I will investigate to make the headwork first. Headwork can be done in a day?

I'm thinking about the delete balance shaft mod. Some people have good gains deleting balance shafts and avoid a failure that occurs in the bearings.

Will see!! Cheers and thank you for your really good advices!!

oh, sweet! beautiful place!

ummmm, it could be done in one day, but its not the kind of thing you want to rush either. if a knowledgeable experienced person started in the morning im sure they could have it back together and running by days end if thats all they worked on. you would still need to tune it for optimal performance as well, but the cool thing about porting a head (not getting into boring or pistons) is that you can see gains even with a 100% stock ecu with no problems. i used to work at a shop where we did this and i can tell you that the extra flow even on an engine with only intake and headers is noticable, even more so with your setup.

good info on the balance shaft delete. i'll add that to the list im making. :jump:

are you running any drivetrain upgrades? auto or manual? do you have 4x4? and did you swap in a tank or did they come with larger tanks there?







so, i just researched really quickly, and man this is quite a sweet setup really. this engine rocks and the gains out of it are huge and affordable. i dont blame you for not going s/c, for the same price you can do a more comrehansive n/a build and be making better numbers than with the measly 4psi you get out of the s/c. i just priced out some stuff real quick, and for $3k or less you can have: intake, larger tb, ported intake, injectors, ecu system, header, cams and adjustable gears, short shifter and dual radiator fans. depending labor and such, you could drop another $1500-2000 for head work, valve shim upgrade, unichip in car display with egt reader, install and tuning, and i think for 5k you could be turning out over 300 wtq, which is probably more than i am putting down to the wheels right now with my s/c v6!!!! granted the s/c v6 is gonna make higher hp numbers, but im guessing the 4cyl will still get better milage, use regular instead of premo gas, have less issues, etc. and you sould always add a larger turbo for the top end, one that doesnt spool til, about 400rpms or so, and since you already have the lower end it would add in the higher end hp that you need.

but the beauty of the na setup is that you dont have to worry about pistons or compression, to add a turbo for long term use, especially a high psi one, you get into a lot more money and headache.







in short, thanks for the inspiration!!!!! :zoom:

 

[Mf Baker]

ok, as for the tb i cant find the exact size on the 3rz, but i believe its 60mm or less!!!! yikes!!!

the issue is that you have to be able to bore out the intake mani where it meets the tb to the same size. i dont have that mani so i cant say if there is enough room to go up to a 75+mm tb or not, but i'm guessing there is. im also not sure about the whole intake mani flow either, but im guessing its pretty good. you may max out the runners in that upper part of the plenum though since it doesnt look like you can grind the entire runner through that curve. however, making a custom upper plenum would not be very hard, it could be either a box style or tube style and acheive more flow likely, but clearence would be the issues, which is why they samdwhiched it in there like that in the first place, lol!

but its still gonna help. if its adds power to a 2.2 n/a, its def gonna help a 2.7 n/a. and its gonna help mostly on that upper end HP number, i was surprised to see such high torque numbers and not all that much on the hp. id's say 99% for sure that is because its choking at higher rpms due to a tiny tb. thats probably part of why you havent needed the injectors. also, what elevation do you live at???

 

[MDST]

oh, sweet! beautiful place!

ummmm, it could be done in one day, but its not the kind of thing you want to rush either. if a knowledgeable experienced person started in the morning im sure they could have it back together and running by days end if thats all they worked on. you would still need to tune it for optimal performance as well, but the cool thing about porting a head (not getting into boring or pistons) is that you can see gains even with a 100% stock ecu with no problems. i used to work at a shop where we did this and i can tell you that the extra flow even on an engine with only intake and headers is noticable, even more so with your setup.

good info on the balance shaft delete. i'll add that to the list im making. :jump:

are you running any drivetrain upgrades? auto or manual? do you have 4x4? and did you swap in a tank or did they come with larger tanks there?







so, i just researched really quickly, and man this is quite a sweet setup really. this engine rocks and the gains out of it are huge and affordable. i dont blame you for not going s/c, for the same price you can do a more comrehansive n/a build and be making better numbers than with the measly 4psi you get out of the s/c. i just priced out some stuff real quick, and for $3k or less you can have: intake, larger tb, ported intake, injectors, ecu system, header, cams and adjustable gears, short shifter and dual radiator fans. depending labor and such, you could drop another $1500-2000 for head work, valve shim upgrade, unichip in car display with egt reader, install and tuning, and i think for 5k you could be turning out over 300 wtq, which is probably more than i am putting down to the wheels right now with my s/c v6!!!! granted the s/c v6 is gonna make higher hp numbers, but im guessing the 4cyl will still get better milage, use regular instead of premo gas, have less issues, etc. and you sould always add a larger turbo for the top end, one that doesnt spool til, about 400rpms or so, and since you already have the lower end it would add in the higher end hp that you need.

but the beauty of the na setup is that you dont have to worry about pistons or compression, to add a turbo for long term use, especially a high psi one, you get into a lot more money and headache.







in short, thanks for the inspiration!!!!! :zoom:

Mmm I'm gonna search the best here to make the headwork. I hope get lucky!

Link for the balance shaft delete kit:

Balance Shaft Removal Kit - 3RZ

None drivetrain upgrades yet and don't know where to start. Mi truck is manual 4x4 and gas tank is the standart one ( came from factory ). The engine, tranny and transfer are practically the same to the first gen 2.7 Tacoma.

For the use of our trucks, torque is the most important thing. A turbo or sc, the gains are immediate without having to do other things but as you say, could eventually lead to some problems. As I said earlier, I wanna see where I can get without having to put a turbo or sc.

Put those numbers that you say without forced induction, would be great and different! Will see!

And yes ( I forgot ), I have a LC short shifter. Is not too short as the race cars use but it is shorter than the standart one and it works great.

Cheers

 

[MDST]

ok, as for the tb i cant find the exact size on the 3rz, but i believe its 60mm or less!!!! yikes!!!

the issue is that you have to be able to bore out the intake mani where it meets the tb to the same size. i dont have that mani so i cant say if there is enough room to go up to a 75+mm tb or not, but i'm guessing there is. im also not sure about the whole intake mani flow either, but im guessing its pretty good. you may max out the runners in that upper part of the plenum though since it doesnt look like you can grind the entire runner through that curve. however, making a custom upper plenum would not be very hard, it could be either a box style or tube style and acheive more flow likely, but clearence would be the issues, which is why they samdwhiched it in there like that in the first place, lol!

but its still gonna help. if its adds power to a 2.2 n/a, its def gonna help a 2.7 n/a. and its gonna help mostly on that upper end HP number, i was surprised to see such high torque numbers and not all that much on the hp. id's say 99% for sure that is because its choking at higher rpms due to a tiny tb. thats probably part of why you havent needed the injectors. also, what elevation do you live at???

When the time comes, I have to see how far I can increase the tb, but first I think will be the headwork. I've seen some good cams out there but don't know what would be the one for me.

Some people have told me the injectors for the 1FZ FE produce gains in 3RZ engine. Don't know if it's true.

Now I have more air into the engine, but I never increase the exhaust line and I think it also helps for more torque. Maybe I'm wrong.

I live 800-1000 meters above sea level.

Cheers