2" Lift + 2" Body Lift

A

asanelli

New member
So i have searched several times and cant find a specific answer to these questions.

Is it possible to do a 2" lift and 2" body lift and run 32.7s or 33s and not have to cut anything?

Since i will effectively have a 4" lift. Or will the body mount still need to be cut since the overall diameter is growing without the distance changing?

What are the possible downsides of a body lift?

Overall am i ahead anything running 2" lift and 2" body lift if i want to 32.7s or 33s?


Thanks
 
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asanelli said:
So i have searched several times and cant find a specific answer to these questions.

Is it possible to do a 2" lift and 2" body lift and run 32.7s or 33s and not have to cut anything?

Since i will effectively have a 4" lift. Or will the body mount still need to be cut since the overall diameter is growing without the distance changing?

What are the possible downsides of a body lift?

Overall am i ahead anything running 2" lift and 2" body lift if i want to 32.7s or 33s?


Thanks
Click to expand...

Hi there bud! running the set up you mentioned you'll most likely need to trim your inner fender liners to prevent rubbing. As for the body mount chop....there is no other way to know until you install and mount everything....but you should be close. Each T4R is slightly different even with the exact same lift. A difference of as little as 1/4 inch will make tons of variables in different vehicles. Ive got OME885 and bilstein 5100 and a 2 inch body lift I clear the 33's with no body mount chop with extra room to spare. Not much but ive got some wiggle room if I chose to go taller tires. keep us posted! Aloha HH
 
I'm running 33s on a 3/2 Toytect lift, no body lift. The only thing I've trimmed is the bottom of the front bumper inside the wells. Just used a grinder. Can't even tell anything was done.
 
Elan_ said:
I'm running 33s on a 3/2 Toytect lift, no body lift. The only thing I've trimmed is the bottom of the front bumper inside the wells. Just used a grinder. Can't even tell anything was done.
Click to expand...

are you able to flex it?

can you post a few pictures?

so effectively a 1" body lift with a 2" lift would likely work? can it "flex or tuck",
though?
 
A body lift is actually in some ways more beneficial than a suspension lift.

For the front tires, a suspension lift won't change your tire rub compared to stock when flexing (it might help on the street though). A BL will actually space your body higher from your wheels and help you when you flex.

In the rear, depending on if you rub on the inside or the top of the wheel wells, a BL can help where a suspension lift wouldn't. Although most of the time its the inside of the wheel wells due to the solid axle angle.

Depends on your tire size if a BL helps how much you rub.

There is no downside to a BL. If it is in place of a suspension lift though, (alone or paired with spacers), your wont have any more suspension travel vs stock if you care about that...
 
Why only 2" of Suspension Lift? Most of the lift kits you can purchase typically give closer to 3" of suspension lift. 2" Body lift for 33's might be a bit much.

Depending on the wheel and tire combination, type of front bumper you're using (Aftermarket Front Bumpers remove much of what would need to be trimmed typically), and rough Caster Setting; you could fit 33's easily.

I was running 285/70R17 Nitto Terra Grapplers on my 4th gen before and I hardly rubbed in the front except on tight turns (I had my 33's on the factory Sport Wheels so the wider tire affected scrub angle from where it was mounted on the hub), though on heavy flex the rear would grumble a bit as it was stuffed into the fender well. Though that's something that could be addressed by using slightly taller spacer blocks for the bump stops in the rear.

Currently I'm running 35X12.5R17's on 9" wide rims with a -12 Offset. I'm still running the same 2.5" Diameter Radflo Coilover Lift Kit for about 3" of suspension lift and a 1.5" Body Lift and am making the 35's work. But that took a lot of trimming, hammering, body mount chop, and such to make them work without rubbing a lot; though I imagine had the Toyo RTs come in 34's I would have not had to do nearly as much work as I did so far to fit the 35's.

I would skim over my build thread and a few others who run/ran 33's to get an idea of what you're looking to accomplish. :)
 
It is my understanding that at 3 inches you need to get UCAs which are pricey.

The original thought was to run 2 inches with a body lift and not need to get UCAs
 
Body lift does nothing to stop you needing to do the body mount chop. Suspension will relieve that issue but it will take quite a bit to not trim it. I have a 2.5" body lift and ~4" of suspension lift with 35" tires. I still had to chop body mount down, flatten pinch welds, remove most of inner fender liner, trim bumpers, etc. The 6" drop bracket lift will give you enough to clear 33's and possibly 35's without cutting though.
 
t-man said:
Body lift does nothing to stop you needing to do the body mount chop. Suspension will relieve that issue but it will take quite a bit to not trim it. I have a 2.5" body lift and ~4" of suspension lift with 35" tires. I still had to chop body mount down, flatten pinch welds, remove most of inner fender liner, trim bumpers, etc. The 6" drop bracket lift will give you enough to clear 33's and possibly 35's without cutting though.
Click to expand...

That is true, you're going to find that the choice in wheel, tire size, and suspension set-up is more critical in reducing the need to cut the body mount.

For example, with my 33's and my Caster set at 4° I didn't have any real issues with the tires rubbing the body mount (though I had to get rid of the front mudflaps and as I mentioned due to the stock wheels I had rubbing on the frame at full lock). But when I went to my 35's I had to chop the body mount, flatten the pinch welds and set the caster around 5° so the tires wouldn't rub on the remaining portion of the body mount when the suspension is compressed and the wheel is turned.
 
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