2000 4 Runner rear window

[farm_dog12]

I have a 2000 4 Runner and the rear window, rear wiper, rear defrost all will not work. I have read posts about making sure the window lock is not active and make sure the wiper is in it's correct place and make sure the window is all they way up. I cannot get the window to move at all. I put the key in the lock and tried it that way and nothing. I wouldn't think it is a motor if they all don't work. Is there a way to manually reset something? Any help is greatly appreciated!!


Thanks,

Josh Deal

 

[RonMAIDEN]

There may be a fuse for the whole backend so check that first.

 

[farm_dog12]

Does anyone know for sure if their is a fuse the the whole back of the vehicle? We did check under the dash fuse panel and under the hood. Everything checked out ok.... Any one else have a solution????

 

[steezemcqueen]

check the fuse box under the hood. there is a fuse labeled MPX-B. if that is blown, it can take out the whole rear hatch. if its not that, then the wires that run in between the hatch and the body are likely broken from the movement of the hatch opening and closing for the past 10 years. same thing happened to my old 2000.

 

[TheDurk]

What Monster said. Here is link to wiring diagram. Linky

This is how I would do it:

After checking fuses, I would verify that the Backdoor ECU is receiving power as per page 5:

Current always flows through the POWER fuse to TERMINAL 3 of the body ECU and TERMINAL 1 of the back door ECU. With the ignition SW turned on, the WIPER fuse to TERMINAL 9 of the body ECU, the ECU-IG fuse to TERMINAL 10 of the body ECU and TERMINAL 3 of the back door ECU.

This means opening up the inside cover of the liftgate. If full-time power is present at terminal 1 and ignition power at Terminal 3, then you need to check the black/white ground circuit for continuity and ground connection, including the switch that tells the system window is closed. Then check the lock switch in front door for ground--it should be grounded on all wires when in operating position. You could also do this first after fuses--it's less likely a problem, but easier to do. Terminal 8 on main Body ECU should also be good for ground.

If you haven't found a fault by this point, start looking for a back-door ECU to swap in. That's about all I can see that would wipe out the whole rear, except a bizarre fault in the main Body ECU.

 

[skorpion]

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[Schmidtty86]

check the fuse box under the hood. there is a fuse labeled MPX-B. if that is blown, it can take out the whole rear hatch. if its not that, then the wires that run in between the hatch and the body are likely broken from the movement of the hatch opening and closing for the past 10 years. same thing happened to my old 2000.

Pulled back that wire loom in my 2001 and found the blue power wire cut. Spliced it back in and boom. Window goes up and down as intended!
Thanks!