2000 4Runner Limited 4 wheel drive system operation

You can hit that button at pretty much any normal speed. I've noticed the more often you engage it, the faster it responds. It suspect it might need some forward or reverse motion to engage. I'm always rolling when I push it. It's designed to work at highway speeds if you encounter conditions that may warrant it. I always reduce speed out of some unfounded caution until I feel the 'clunk'.

Do you still have the card in the plastic pouch on the driver's visor? I think that has a guide. The Owner's Manual covers it as well beginning on page 109. The whole scheme is a bit confusing at first if you're used to other 4X systems.

nothing wrong with bumping an old thread.


You can push the 4WD button either in motion (speed limit 62mph for 2000) or while stopped.

You can push the 4wd button or pull the transfer case shift selector to 4hi locked up to 60 mph or while stopped, but I've found that 4wd will not engage until I start moving in order to allow gears to sync up in the ADD and transfer case.

Ok thanks guys!
 
The H4L and L4L stand For 4H Lock and 4L Lock these modes will turn the Lights on the dash on and engage the Center Diff TransferCase Lock without pushing the 4wd button on or off the h2 and h4 on the shifter is all wheel drive AWD when you push the 4wd button when you depress the 4wd button your back in 2 wheel drive when you push the RR Diff Button that locks the Rear tires together you will hear if you turn slitley on asphalt tire squaking because the tires in rear are not turning at different speeds during turning rear RR diff should only be used offroad like crawling or need more traction on dirt... hope this information helps

Lee - thanks a lot for the tips. Do you have any insight on the all wheel drive mode vs. 4HL mode ?
 
The H4L and L4L stand For 4H Lock and 4L Lock these modes will turn the Lights on the dash on and engage the Center Diff TransferCase Lock without pushing the 4wd button on or off the h2 and h4 on the shifter is all wheel drive AWD when you push the 4wd button when you depress the 4wd button your back in 2 wheel drive when you push the RR Diff Button that locks the Rear tires together you will hear if you turn slitley on asphalt tire squaking because the tires in rear are not turning at different speeds during turning rear RR diff should only be used offroad like crawling or need more traction on dirt... hope this information helps
Good info. Hopefully between now and 2005 when Shralpy posted that, he managed to figure that out.
 
nothing wrong with bumping an old thread.


You can push the 4WD button either in motion (speed limit 62mph for 2000) or while stopped.


Hey Hilux, I'm a brand new member to this particular forum. I can't post any threads to ask a question I can't find an answer for in the search function so I'll ask you since you seem real knowedgeable. I bought a 4Runner back in June and I'm just now getting time to do proper maintenance on it. It is a 2WD and I am not liking the level of service I am finding (277K miles, several loose spark plugs burned up in exhaust gas, valve cover spark plug seals weren't properly installed, 2 stripped out really-old NGK spark plugs with helicoil inserts stuck on the plugs, 4 Autolite Spark Plugs, 2 of the coils came out welded stuck on the spark plugs, VC bolt grommets were never changed with VC gaskets and were practically melt-welded onto the VC's, non-professionally installed lights around the wheels, different LED lights in the headlamps), so I'm going to replace all of the fluids everywhere. I'm surprised with the way the spark plug situation was that it had any power at all and wasn't misfiring like crazy (it did a few times before I replaced the coils 3 months ago). It's been amazingly robust given the level of shade-tree mechanic'ry that was done to it. My Cherokee wouldn't have ran as well as this Toyota did in those conditions.

I can not find any sort of answer on what is the proper fluid for a 2WD rear axle. Is it the same as the 4WD, 80W-90? I don't know how robust these 4Runner axles are against slight changes in fluid, but my Cherokee had a Currie Enterprises rear axle with a locker and if you put any sort of synthetic in there it would destroy the diff, it could only take standard petroleum gear oils (it had to do with excessive heat that the synthetics produced for their axles, and I had to have the axle rebuilt for more than I bought it for 7 years later - I don't remember what fluids we put in there in 2014 when my dad was helping me but he's a synthetic zealot and I have no doubt that's probably what went in there).

Thanks for the help
 
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Hey Hilux, I'm a brand new member to this particular forum. I can't post any threads to ask a question I can't find an answer for in the search function so I'll ask you since you seem real knowedgeable. I bought a 4Runner back in June and I'm just now getting time to do proper maintenance on it. It is a 2WD and I am not liking the level of service I am finding (277K miles, several loose spark plugs burned up in exhaust gas, valve cover spark plug seals weren't properly installed, 2 stripped out really-old NGK spark plugs with helicoil inserts stuck on the plugs, 4 Autolite Spark Plugs, 2 of the coils came out welded stuck on the spark plugs, VC bolt grommets were never changed with VC gaskets and were practically melt-welded onto the VC's, non-professionally installed lights around the wheels, different LED lights in the headlamps), so I'm going to replace all of the fluids everywhere. I'm surprised with the way the spark plug situation was that it had any power at all and wasn't misfiring like crazy (it did a few times before I replaced the coils 3 months ago). It's been amazingly robust given the level of shade-tree mechanic'ry that was done to it. My Cherokee wouldn't have ran as well as this Toyota did in those conditions.

I can not find any sort of answer on what is the proper fluid for a 2WD rear axle. Is it the same as the 4WD, 80W-90? I don't know how robust these 4Runner axles are against slight changes in fluid, but my Cherokee had a Currie Enterprises rear axle with a locker and if you put any sort of synthetic in there it would destroy the diff, it could only take standard petroleum gear oils (it had to do with excessive heat that the synthetics produced for their axles, and I had to have the axle rebuilt for more than I bought it for 7 years later - I don't remember what fluids we put in there in 2014 when my dad was helping me but he's a synthetic zealot and I have no doubt that's probably what went in there).

Thanks for the help

Welcome to the forum [MENTION=769777]WayneIndustries[/MENTION] - 3rd Gen 4Runners are not fickle about rear diff gear oil. Find the recommended variety (pretty sure it's 75-90) and choose either traditional or synthetic. You can't break it unless it's run dry. There are loads of gear oil threads on here - use the Google search toolbar at the top of this page and scroll down to the 3rd Gen 4Runner forum-specific results for info/threads. Obviously, make sure the fill plug can be removed before you drain!
 
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Thanks for the info InfiniteBlockades. I ended up finding it also on PhoRunner's channel when he was doing a rear diff fluid change, he had a snapshot of the FSM. I'm guessing 2WD's aren't very common? I searched for 2WD and 0 results came back. I'm probably going to get this converted to a 4WD in the distant future. Right now it's my work horse as I travel from state to state for work.

Just upgraded the alternator to a 240 AMP from Tucson Alternator and did the big 3 after we finished piecing all of the valve cover portions back together. Found cracked hose and yet somehow this thing didn't have a vacuum leak. I tested all around the engine with carb cleaner to no avail.
 
Thanks for the info InfiniteBlockades. I ended up finding it also on PhoRunner's channel when he was doing a rear diff fluid change, he had a snapshot of the FSM. I'm guessing 2WD's aren't very common? I searched for 2WD and 0 results came back. I'm probably going to get this converted to a 4WD in the distant future. Right now it's my work horse as I travel from state to state for work.

Just upgraded the alternator to a 240 AMP from Tucson Alternator and did the big 3 after we finished piecing all of the valve cover portions back together. Found cracked hose and yet somehow this thing didn't have a vacuum leak. I tested all around the engine with carb cleaner to no avail.
Also try RWD... but yeah, not too common on the forums. Plenty of them sold in southern states, but those aren't owned by enthusiasts so much.

Rear diff is the same between 2WD and 4WD (other than ratios). Open, no concern about specific fluid. If you get vibrations, the whole prop shaft may have to get replaced (not just u-joints), and it is a different design from the 4WD.

Check my thread linked in my signature for my 2wd to 4wd swap.

-Charlie
 
Also try RWD... but yeah, not too common on the forums. Plenty of them sold in southern states, but those aren't owned by enthusiasts so much.

Rear diff is the same between 2WD and 4WD (other than ratios). Open, no concern about specific fluid. If you get vibrations, the whole prop shaft may have to get replaced (not just u-joints), and it is a different design from the 4WD.

Check my thread linked in my signature for my 2wd to 4wd swap.

-Charlie

Perfect, I'm going to convert this to 4WD like I did my first Cherokee I bought that was also 2WD. .. in a distant future.
 

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