2000 SR5 Auto Swap to 2000 SR5 Manual

VernySanders

New member
Extremely long story short my flexplate and starter teeth have been damaged from misalignment somehow maybe a worn plunger bushing etc. ANYHOW lol I needed to pull the auto anyways and took it as a sign that now is the time to do my manual swap. I have everything needed from a 2000 SR5 Manual. This means ECU, Engine / Trans Harness, Driveshafts, Crossmember etc etc etc. My question is this, is it really going to be worth it to swap over the harness due to everything being the same year? For someone that has done this swap before, would it be far quicker to just simply wire in my new clutch?
 
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Extremely long story short my flexplate and starter teeth have been damaged from misalignment somehow maybe a worn plunger bushing etc. ANYHOW lol I needed to pull the auto anyways and took it as a sign that now is the time to do my manual swap. I have everything needed from a 2000 SR5 Manual. This means ECU, Engine / Trans Harness, Driveshafts, Crossmember etc etc etc. My question is this, is it really going to be worth it to swap over the harness due to everything being the same year? For someone that has done this swap before, would it be far quicker to just simply wire in my new clutch?

You'd have to pull off the intake manifold, but otherwise pulling the whole motor harness isn't that bad. I did so when pulling my motor.
 
Mine is a 97 but in my opinion swapping the entire harness was far easier than keeping the auto harness and repinning it. Wiring for me was the hardest part of the swap and using a manual harness eliminated the majority of the wiring
 
Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:

i-wZfmpbM-M.jpg


I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.
 
Its definitely easier in a 2000 than the earlier years. I changed out the engine harness in mine but mostly because the auto and manual plugs did not match and putting the harness in made it easier overall. I would take advantage of that diagram that Team_Jake posted and just wire in the clutch and reverse light
 
My question is this, is it really going to be worth it to swap over the harness due to everything being the same year?
In relation to keeping or scrapping the harness, just go for the new one, there's no reason to potentially invite future headaches if you don't have to. In relation to a swap in general, depends how much you like the car, really. Or wait a few years and import one
 
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You'd have to pull off the intake manifold, but otherwise pulling the whole motor harness isn't that bad. I did so when pulling my motor.

Pulling parts doesn't scare me at all! From what I have seen this harness I have is in pretty good shape, its good to hear that its not that hard though, it didnt seem to be, I do have a fair amount of experience working on my 3rd gen and familiarity of where that harness goes, the actual removal part of it was what was kind of concerning, were there any hangups you ran into?
 
Mine is a 97 but in my opinion swapping the entire harness was far easier than keeping the auto harness and repinning it. Wiring for me was the hardest part of the swap and using a manual harness eliminated the majority of the wiring

Okay, I appreciate the input Randy! Were there any hangups you ran into while swapping the harness?
 
Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:

i-wZfmpbM-M.jpg


I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.

This is the kind of feedback I was hoping for, I was under the assumption that because i'm doing a same year swap everything would be fairly similar. I don't have a diagram on my laptop yet, but i'm sure I can find one. I appreciate the help Jake!
 
Its definitely easier in a 2000 than the earlier years. I changed out the engine harness in mine but mostly because the auto and manual plugs did not match and putting the harness in made it easier overall. I would take advantage of that diagram that Team_Jake posted and just wire in the clutch and reverse light

Thankyou St. Runner! I appreciate that! I knew this swap was meant to be when I found all of the same year parts on facebook marketplace for dirt cheap after making the mental commitment and decision to do the manual swap. The darn thing fell into my hands LOL
 
In relation to keeping or scrapping the harness, just go for the new one, there's no reason to potentially invite future headaches if you don't have to. In relation to a swap in general, depends how much you like the car, really. Or wait a few years and import one

My loyalty lies with my 3rd gen for the rest of my life. I'm only 24 so I have many years left with this truck as long as it doesnt get in a fatal wreck. So getting a different truck isn't in my cards unless I just wanted a second third gen. I think my next vehicle will be a 1st gen tundra, weld a custom bed, use the bulletproof 4.7 to tow my 3rd gen to the dunes and back
 
Okay, I appreciate the input Randy! Were there any hangups you ran into while swapping the harness?

The biggest problem I had was two wires that run from a plug in the ecu to a plug in the body harness, for some reason I just couldn’t wrap my head around where those wires ran to. You may not have that issue being that yours is a 2000 so just look at your wiring diagram and make sure. Since your ecu plugs are the same between harnesses maybe it would be better to keep the auto harness?

The manual harness I got was in better shape than the auto harness so that was another benefit to doing the swap, and using it eliminated a significant amount of repinning and wiring which you may not run into with yours
 
The biggest problem I had was two wires that run from a plug in the ecu to a plug in the body harness, for some reason I just couldn’t wrap my head around where those wires ran to. You may not have that issue being that yours is a 2000 so just look at your wiring diagram and make sure. Since your ecu plugs are the same between harnesses maybe it would be better to keep the auto harness?

The manual harness I got was in better shape than the auto harness so that was another benefit to doing the swap, and using it eliminated a significant amount of repinning and wiring which you may not run into with yours

I'm with you on that line of thinking, for once I may have gotten lucky in life LOL
 
My loyalty lies with my 3rd gen for the rest of my life. I'm only 24 so I have many years left with this truck as long as it doesnt get in a fatal wreck. So getting a different truck isn't in my cards unless I just wanted a second third gen. I think my next vehicle will be a 1st gen tundra, weld a custom bed, use the bulletproof 4.7 to tow my 3rd gen to the dunes and back
Sound just like me, cheers to driving it into the ground. I've even been toying with the idea of importing a Surf in a few more years, myself :rockon:
 
Sound just like me, cheers to driving it into the ground. I've even been toying with the idea of importing a Surf in a few more years, myself :rockon:

The vehicle I would import for certain from Japan would be an 80 Series Land Cruiser. In my mind they look very close to a 3rd gen 4runner and most of them out there are diesel.

80series.jpg

At least when they look like this I think they resemble a larger 3rd gen.
 

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Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:

i-wZfmpbM-M.jpg


I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.

If I do this, should I just ziptie the unused connectors that used to plug into the auto?
 
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Run the connections for the clutch switch where the engine harness comes through the firewall. For the reverse all you need is the reverse light wire in the park/neutral switch run to the reverse switch on the 5 speed. I am not sure if it is a powered switch or just a ground switch so you might need the power wire also depending
 
Run the connections for the clutch switch where the engine harness comes through the firewall. For the reverse all you need is the reverse light wire in the park/neutral switch run to the reverse switch on the 5 speed. I am not sure if it is a powered switch or just a ground switch so you might need the power wire also depending

I appreciate it, im assuming that the clutch switch your referring too is one of the two connectors on the clutch pedal assembly themselves? Ive got two electrical connectors with two wires that go to them. Im going to need to reference the wiring diagrams before I really dig into this. If worst comes to worst ill just swap the harness. A couple days ago when I had dropped the trans it felt like a ton of extra work to swap the harness as well but now Im thinking its probably foolproof and will only take me a maximum of two hours
 

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