ABS control module question 2000 SR5 3.4 MT

[1bzdvl]

I've still got a P0500 that is plaguing me. I just had the combination meter rebuilt as I thought that was the issue. I wasn't getting signal from the cluster to the ECU. So I'm looking at replacing the ABS control module, even though the needles all move on the cluster. I have a 2000 SR5 3.4 MT. Is they're a specific year and transmission that I need to look for in a replacement? I've seen some say I need one from a 99-00, and I've seen some that suggest it doesn't matter.

Also:

My cruise control isn't functioning correctly. It won't set.

Is there any chance switching from 4.10 to 4.30 with the elocker swap and/or bigger wheels is having an impeding effect?

FML
Thank you in advance for any help.

 

[TucsonMike]

Can't help u on ABS module, but for cruise control, there's an adjustable switch that the clutch pedal contacts when its not depressed. See if the clutch is activating the switch when trying to activate cruise control. My 2000 manual was experiencing same issue. I usually make sure my pedal is fully retracted back when cruise control acts up and it takes care of it. Good luck

MikeM

 

[1bzdvl]

Can't help u on ABS module, but for cruise control, there's an adjustable switch that the clutch pedal contacts when its not depressed. See if the clutch is activating the switch when trying to activate cruise control. My 2000 manual was experiencing same issue. I usually make sure my pedal is fully retracted back when cruise control acts up and it takes care of it. Good luck

MikeM

I'll give it a look. Thank you!

 

[phattyduck]

I've still got a P0500 that is plaguing me. I just had the combination meter rebuilt as I thought that was the issue. I wasn't getting signal from the cluster to the ECU. So I'm looking at replacing the ABS control module, even though the needles all move on the cluster. I have a 2000 SR5 3.4 MT. Is they're a specific year and transmission that I need to look for in a replacement? I've seen some say I need one from a 99-00, and I've seen some that suggest it doesn't matter.

Also:

My cruise control isn't functioning correctly. It won't set.

Is there any chance switching from 4.10 to 4.30 with the elocker swap and/or bigger wheels is having an impeding effect?

FML
Thank you in advance for any help.

If the cluster is working, the ABS system is outputting a valid signal to the cluster.

For the ABS-equipped 3rd gen, this is now it goes:

wheel speed sensors -> ABS computer -> gauge cluster -> everything else (ECU, cruise computer, e-locker computer, 4WD computer, etc. - depending on options)

What are you using to control your e-locker? Did you install a stock e-locker ecu or are you just using a relay setup?

You need to be going at least 20 or 25mph for cruise control to set. If the cruise computer isn't receiving a valid speedo signal (just like the ECU...), then it won't set.

-Charlie

 

[1bzdvl]

If the cluster is working, the ABS system is outputting a valid signal to the cluster.

For the ABS-equipped 3rd gen, this is now it goes:

wheel speed sensors -> ABS computer -> gauge cluster -> everything else (ECU, cruise computer, e-locker computer, 4WD computer, etc. - depending on options)

What are you using to control your e-locker? Did you install a stock e-locker ecu or are you just using a relay setup?

You need to be going at least 20 or 25mph for cruise control to set. If the cruise computer isn't receiving a valid speedo signal (just like the ECU...), then it won't set.

-Charlie

Hey Charlie,

I'm using an ECU I sourced from a junker that I took locker parts from. I used the diagram provided by Timmy. Now that I think about it, that diagram was for a 98, and I recall finding out after some help from you that wiring isn't the same in my 2000 as it is on 98s. I need to double check that.

(EDIT: I don't see a pin location on the B connector of the combination meter for a rear diff lock on my digital FSM copy for a 98-02. I do see it's pin 5 on the B connector of the combination meter in my hard copy of the 2000 FSM.)

With regards to the cruise. I was going at freeway speed. Around 65 mph.

I've hit a threshold with my troubles, and have scheduled an appointment with a mechanic that has the proper tools to see what's going on.

 

[phattyduck]

Hey Charlie,

I'm using an ECU I sourced from a junker that I took locker parts from. I used the diagram provided by Timmy. Now that I think about it, that diagram was for a 98, and I recall finding out after some help from you that wiring isn't the same in my 2000 as it is on 98s. I need to double check that.

(EDIT: I don't see a pin location on the B connector for a rear diff lock on my digital FSM copy for a 98-02. I do see it's pin 5 on the B connector in my hard copy of the 2000 FSM.)

With regards to the cruise. I was going at freeway speed. Around 65 mph.

I've hit a threshold with my troubles, and have scheduled an appointment with a mechanic that has the proper tools to see what's going on.

There's one clear thing in that diagram above that you *really* need to check. Did you connect the speed sensor wire for the Diff Lock ECU to the dash harness in any way? Because the diagram there shows it connected to ground (which is fine - it allows you to engage the diff lock at any speed) - but if that is also then connected to the wire that is needed for the ECU, cruise control, etc. those other functions won't work.

-Charlie

 

[1bzdvl]

There's one clear thing in that diagram above that you *really* need to check. Did you connect the speed sensor wire for the Diff Lock ECU to the dash harness in any way? Because the diagram there shows it connected to ground (which is fine - it allows you to engage the diff lock at any speed) - but if that is also then connected to the wire that is needed for the ECU, cruise control, etc. those other functions won't work.

-Charlie

What I ended up doing was making a "new" plug from a sourced pigtail. The plug hanging down is the original plug. I removed the green/orange wire from the original, and added it to the fabricated pigtail. It is not grounded. I didn't want to have the locker connect at an unsafe speed. I did wire it to engage in 2/hi/low.

 

[1bzdvl]

There's one clear thing in that diagram above that you *really* need to check. Did you connect the speed sensor wire for the Diff Lock ECU to the dash harness in any way? Because the diagram there shows it connected to ground (which is fine - it allows you to engage the diff lock at any speed) - but if that is also then connected to the wire that is needed for the ECU, cruise control, etc. those other functions won't work.

-Charlie

Update... Your comment about that wire connection got me curious, so I unplugged the locker ECU and returned the truck back to stock. Low and behold, the ECU is reading speed again, and the CEL is gone. I've been tormented by this for so long, and that's all it took. Thank you sir. Now I have to find out what the issue is with my locker ECU wiring. After I get through emissions first of course.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!