2002 4Runner brake bleeding

MadCityRich

New member
Just finished bleeding the brakes for the second time after replacing my old Tundra calipers with re-manufactured ones and the associated pads and rotors. I went from the 199mm (E) to the 231 (L) calipers.

This was the second set of 199mm calipers that had seized up on me. Hopefully the 231mm units will do better.

I thought I'd share my bleeding experience as clear directions are hard to come by for the 2001 and 2002 4Runners with hydraulic boosters. Here is my process:

1) I installed Speed Bleeders. I'd had trouble in the past messing around with my Motive bleeder and just didn't want to repeat it. I like the Motive for every other vehicle I own and have used it on BMWs, Subarus, and Fords. Just not the 4Runner.

2) With the key "off" I pumped the brakes about 40 times until it got hard to press. This clears the hydraulic unit of pressure.

3) With the key "on" I pumped about 20 times until the warning beep sounded. Pressure built back up. Topped up the reservoir.

4) Starting with right rear I opened up the Speed Bleeder after attaching my bleeding hose and catch can (I highly recommend the Motive bleeding bottles - they make it nice). Then I went back to the cab and held down the brake pedal. Just let it sit with my foot on it. The hydraulic unit kicked on and I could hear fluid flowing. I made sure to not let the reservoir go below Min. I would periodically add a bit of fluid and moved about one small bottle of brake fluid through. Closed up the bleeder, topped up the reservoir and repeated this for the left rear.

5) Keeping the key in the "on" position, I moved to the right front caliper. For the front, the system did not flow the fluid. I pumped about 15 to 20 times before checking and topping up the reservoir. Repeated this about 4 or 5 times. Then I closed up the bleeder and went to the left front caliper and repeated.

6) With all the bleeders closed up, I did about 20 pumps to get the pressure warning to sound. Let it come up the pressure, checked the reservoir and repeated.

This process really firmed up my pedal. The first time I bled, I pumped the pedal for the rear brakes. I don't know if it made a difference, but just holding the pedal down seemed to work. Maybe it was just the second bleeding that was needed. I don't know. Between the two bleeding sessions I used two large bottles of brake fluid and two small bottles. I really hope all the old fluid is out.

This is the third set of calipers I've installed on the 4Runner and the first time I felt I really bled them right. Other times I'd get the dealer to finish the job. I don't see the need this time around. :clap2:

Other items of note:
The 231mm calipers fit just fine under my Konig CS wheels (they should). What was nice to find was that they also fit under my stock wheels. I use those for spares. No rubbing. I've got the limited version "bottle cap" wheels. Your mileage may vary.

My LX450 wheels will not work without significant wheel trimming. I did this trimming for the 199mm calipers and it was fine, but never use these wheels anymore anyway. I'm not in the mood for further trimming of the wheels. I can only say that it will take a good bit more trimming for them to work with the 231mm calipers.

Hopefully this is useful for the group.

MadCityRich
2002 Ltd
231mm TBU
Konig CS
SS 7.1 lift
Shrockworks front bumper
 
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Yes, brake bedding is key. This process should always be followed after doing pads/rotors.

I'll also add that I replaced the front caliper hard brake lines that connect the caliper to the rubber line. It was about $18 total for both of them at the dealer. At 185k miles and two prior replacements and associated corrosion, these needed replacing. It's a cheap and easy R&R.

MadCityRich
 
I don't recall the vendor or rebuilder. I bought my recent set from Rockauto. They are Centric brand.

I spoke with my local dealer parts department. The caliper seizing is not that uncommon for the Tundra brakes. The guy said it was almost always the inner lower cylinder, which was my exact issue (I was getting caliper pins at the time, hoping that was the issue). Likely a combination of a design issue and road salt. I dunno.

MadCityRich
 
I don't recall the vendor or rebuilder. I bought my recent set from Rockauto. They are Centric brand.

I spoke with my local dealer parts department. The caliper seizing is not that uncommon for the Tundra brakes. The guy said it was almost always the inner lower cylinder, which was my exact issue (I was getting caliper pins at the time, hoping that was the issue). Likely a combination of a design issue and road salt. I dunno.

MadCityRich

I'm on my second set of pads on my napa eclipse calipers and still smooth as butter. I've had issues with seized calipers on almost all aftermarket calipers I've bought on other cars.
 
We did it similar but not the same. With the key in the "On" position to power the brake booster, I had Sean pump the brakes a few times and hold pressure. Starting at the right rear wheel (furthest from the master cylinder), I bled a little brake fluid and stopped. Had Sean pump the brakes again, held pressure, bled it again, and repeated this until clean brake fluid came out. I then moved to the left rear, did the same procedure, and then moved to the right front and finished with the left front.

If you get air in the system by changing calipers, is it necessary to do it like you did starting with the 40 pumps with the key off and following with the 20 pumps with the key on?
 

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