2005 V8, Timing Belt change + Cam Pos Sens Changed, Crank/No Start

[xavier847]

I just spent the last week after work chipping away to changing my Timing Belt and Water Pump, as well as my spark plugs and air filter. I got the AISIN Kit off Amazon and followed this YouTube video:

YouTube - Toyota 4.7 Timing Belt Part 1 (updated)

I got everything installed and buttoned up on Thursday and experienced a crank/no start scenario. I double check all my connections and no luck. I figured it would be the Camshaft Position Sensor as that was the only thing that I removed and handled electronically. I ordered a new Camshaft Position Sensor from my local dealer and just got done installing it. Still crank/no start scenario. I installed this BAFX OBD2 Sensor and get no codes pulled:

Amazon - BAFX OBD2

I'm a little low on gas, but it says I have 41 miles until empty. I don't think gas is a problem. It was running perfectly fine before the timing belt change and at this point I'm ready to throw in the towel and take it to a dealer if I can't find a reasonable solution.

 

[xavier847]

Here's pictures of the timing. It's ever so slightly rotated clockwise in these pictures but I can assure you that after rotating it back around to the dot on the block, as well as the "0" on the cover, that it lines up perfectly.

 

[xavier847]

There's no RPM when cranking...

I'm thinking the Crank Position Sensor is bad?

I had a bunch of Coolant spill on it while removing the water pump..

 

[weaves]

Did you install the crank trigger wheel?

 

[xavier847]

Did you install the crank trigger wheel?

Yes, and in the right orientation.

 

[xavier847]

I just pulled the Crankshaft Position Sensor and it tests fine at 2.06k Ohms.

 

[xavier847]

I just turned the 4R on without the Crankshaft Position Sensor and I still don't have a check engine light or a code being thrown on the OBD2.

The OBD2 reads off all the sensors just fine. It responds to me depressing the throttle and has readings on temperature.

 

[AuSeeker]

I just turned the 4R on without the Crankshaft Position Sensor and I still don't have a check engine light or a code being thrown on the OBD2.

The OBD2 reads off all the sensors just fine. It responds to me depressing the throttle and has readings on temperature.

Have you check all the fuses and relays?

 

[Direwolf82]

Have you check all the fuses and relays?

Smart man!!! Start simple and work your way to the big and expensive stuff.

 

[xavier847]

Have you check all the fuses and relays?

I've checked the ones that seemed to apply to the situation.

I guess I could just check them all

 

[xavier847]

Unplugged a spark plug coil and still no CEL or Codes...

 

[Direwolf82]

Battery voltage? I have seen ecu's act very funny with low voltage or a bad ground. Maybe after sitting for a week it decided to give up the ghost. Sounds funny but I drove my 4runner home and parked it, the next morning I had zero electrical system working. No lights even, an expensive battery later and I've been good for a few months now. Batteries can be fickle.
After work like that possibly look for pinched wires somewhere also.
Also, I could be wrong but I think most codes get thrown when the engine is running and not just cranking, it's that way with the domestics I know. Maybe someone else more Toyota savvy can confirm or deny that?

 

[weaves]

I just pulled the Crankshaft Position Sensor and it tests fine at 2.06k Ohms.

You really need to throw the cam and crank sensors on a scope to properly test them. You could hook up a multi-meter to the sensors, rotate the engine by hand and check to make sure they are outputting voltage (AC) as a tooth on the trigger wheel passes the sensor. It's unlikely they would go bad during a timing belt change so a faulty signal would probably be due to a damaged crank trigger wheel during removal/installation or broken wiring.

You also haven't mentioned if you tested for fuel or spark yet.

 

[xavier847]

The thing is that I don't even get a CEL during the initial check when I first turn on the vehicle. It's never turning on and I'm never getting codes.

I replaced the Cam Sensor because I jumped the gun and assumed that was the culprit without scanning for codes. Now that I have an OBD2 scanner, I realize that I'm not even able to get codes.

 

[xavier847]

You really need to throw the cam and crank sensors on a scope to properly test them. You could hook up a multi-meter to the sensors, rotate the engine by hand and check to make sure they are outputting voltage (AC) as a tooth on the trigger wheel passes the sensor. It's unlikely they would go bad during a timing belt change so a faulty signal would probably be due to a damaged crank trigger wheel during removal/installation or broken wiring.

You also haven't mentioned if you tested for fuel or spark yet.

I hear the Fuel Pump running just fine when I turn it on, it ran the longest the very first time after sitting and doesn't run unless I crank it.

I haven't checked for spark, but with brand new plugs I'm not worried, as the old plugs looked perfect as well.

My main concern now is why I don't get my CEL on the initial turning on of the vehicle. This is my biggest red flag, as it leads me to believe that my ECU isn't actuating.

 

[xavier847]

I bought this 2005 V8 4Runner Limited with the Air suspension deleted and the XREAS uninstalled. Is there something that people do to ECU or the CLE system to prevent it from throwing codes? I've had this 4R for less than a year.

 

[Direwolf82]

I hear the Fuel Pump running just fine when I turn it on, it ran the longest the very first time after sitting and doesn't run unless I crank it.

I haven't checked for spark, but with brand new plugs I'm not worried, as the old plugs looked perfect as well.

My main concern now is why I don't get my CEL on the initial turning on of the vehicle. This is my biggest red flag, as it leads me to believe that my ECU isn't actuating.

Have you confirmed these will actually throw a code under crank only situations? Most of the vehicles I'm familiar with do NOT throw codes under crank only situations for a variety of reasons.
You said no rpm at crank before. Does that mean it's slow cranking or not cranking over at all?
I will say again check your battery voltage.
And don't assume your new parts work correctly.
We all know the old saying, assume makes an a.. Out of you and me.
Edit: forgot this before. The fuel pump running doesn't mean the fuel is reaching the engine, clogged filter or a kinked line will prevent the flow asking other things. Only way to be positive is either checking pressure at the rail with a gauge, preferred, or crack a fuel line and check the spray, unless your very familiar with how different pressures will spray that will only verify you have fuel but not address pressure.

 

[xavier847]

Have you confirmed these will actually throw a code under crank only situations? Most of the vehicles I'm familiar with do NOT throw codes under crank only situations for a variety of reasons.
You said no rpm at crank before. Does that mean it's slow cranking or not cranking over at all?
I will say again check your battery voltage.
And don't assume your new parts work correctly.
We all know the old saying, assume makes an a.. Out of you and me.
Edit: forgot this before. The fuel pump running doesn't mean the fuel is reaching the engine, clogged filter or a kinked line will prevent the flow asking other things. Only way to be positive is either checking pressure at the rail with a gauge, preferred, or crack a fuel line and check the spray, unless your very familiar with how different pressures will spray that will only verify you have fuel but not address pressure.

It cranks strong, the battery is fine. The voltage was 11.9v. There's no RPM showing on the Tachometer when cranking.

My biggest concern is that the CEL is not coming on during the initial check when turning the car's power on.

 

[That_Titanium_4RNR]

[MENTION=66389]BlackWorksInc[/MENTION]

 

[hankd]

i've got a 2005 v8 sr5 and the check engine light does come on when i turn the truck on (before cranking). the light remains on during cranking then goes off after i start the car. just went outside and verified this.

the rpm gauge does not move while cranking.

if the ecu is dead the truck won't crank or read codes.

i don't know much about vehicles but i had an ecu nightmare earlier this year end ended up buying four of em on ebay before i got the problem fixed (got stuck in water offroading).