2008 4Runner Parking Brake Warning Light & ABS Light Flicker Simultaneously

[sant6236]

I believe the below highlighted portion is the skid control ECU. Toyota calls it 47217-35010 "Control Module/Solenoid." List price is $1,654.55. Through McGeorge its $1,090.80.

Could get an entire assembly on Ebay for $325 used....might be rolling the dice though

 

[sant6236]

I tested the brake fluid level sensor switch both above min and below min.

I dont think its the switch..the resistance measured where it should at both levels.

Furthermore, the fact both lights flicker when I brake the wheels loose too leads me to believe it's the skid control and abs ECU.

 

[AuSeeker]

So frustrating...these things shouldn't be this complicated but they engineer them to be. I agree with nearly all you have said. I will test the switch. Remember though, the Toyota Master tech tested the resevoir sensor and when refilling the reservoir the brake warning light did NOT go back off, which indicated its malfunctioning which also aligns with the code its throwing and the description. The million dollar question is WHY DOES THE ABS LIGHT FLICKER TOO!?

Where is the skid control ECU located or what is the part#?

I tested the brake fluid level sensor switch both above min and below min.

I dont think its the switch..the resistance measured where it should at both levels.

Furthermore, the fact both lights flicker when I brake the wheels loose too leads me to believe it's the skid control and abs ECU.

I don't believe that the Tech actually tested the fluid level sensor and your test seems to prove that, he simply plugged in his Tech Stream tool and saw it said there was an problem with the fluid level sensor/curcuit but didn't do any further testing as described in the troubleshooting document to determine if it was indeed the sensor or the ECU, and since both Brake warning light and ABS light are the symptoms further testing is needed to determine what really is at fault, BUT as mentioned Toytoa dealers usually just replace the entire master cylinder to cover all the bases and gets the job done, it gets them to the next job faster hince more money.

I'm willing to bet if it was the Tech's vehicle he would do further testing and just replace the part causing the issue since it would be less money out of his pocket, but since it's a customer's the more vehicles he works on the more money in his pocket because most of those Techs if not all work on commision/percentage of job cost, they don't make as much money trouble shooting as they do replacing parts.

If it were my truck I would gamble on the ebay unit you found..IF you can confirm the ECU has the same part number as your's does and they offer at least some kind of return policy if it's defective, I do believe there at least 2 different part numbers for these ECUs depending on the year model and possibly other factors on some models with special features, I think the rest of the master cylinder is tthe same on all year 4th Gen models.

Also if you have the entire assembly you can just use the ECU to put on yours and if it solves the issue your good to go, but there are other parts that sometimes fail on these units that you will have if you need them in the future, such as the electric pump motor, the accumulator, etc., or you could sell these other parts to forum members that may need them.

If the ECU fixes your issue I might even be interested in the rest of the assembly if you don't want to keep it for future parts, since I plan on keeping my T4R forever unless the engine dies and I might even rebuilt it if that happens, but I like to have various parts and components on hand that I know may need repalcing at some point since I do all my own work on my vehicles.

Edit: Forgot to add that yes I do think that the "Control Module" is the "ABS" and "Skid" ECU.

 

[sant6236]

I don't believe that the Tech actually tested the fluid level sensor and your test seems to prove that, he simply plugged in his Tech Stream tool and saw it said there was an problem with the fluid level sensor/curcuit but didn't do any further testing as described in the troubleshooting document to determine if it was indeed the sensor or the ECU, and since both Brake warning light and ABS light are the symptoms further testing is needed to determine what really is at fault, BUT as mentioned Toytoa dealers usually just replace the entire master cylinder to cover all the bases and gets the job done, it gets them to the next job faster hince more money.

I'm willing to bet if it was the Tech's vehicle he would do further testing and just replace the part causing the issue since it would be less money out of his pocket, but since it's a customer's the more vehicles he works on the more money in his pocket because most of those Techs if not all work on commision/percentage of job cost, they don't make as much money trouble shooting as they do replacing parts.

If it were my truck I would gamble on the ebay unit you found..IF you can confirm the ECU has the same part number as your's does and they offer at least some kind of return policy if it's defective, I do believe there at least 2 different part numbers for these ECUs depending on the year model and possibly other factors on some models with special features, I think the rest of the master cylinder is tthe same on all year 4th Gen models.

Also if you have the entire assembly you can just use the ECU to put on yours and if it solves the issue your good to go, but there are other parts that sometimes fail on these units that you will have if you need them in the future, such as the electric pump motor, the accumulator, etc., or you could sell these other parts to forum members that may need them.

If the ECU fixes your issue I might even be interested in the rest of the assembly if you don't want to keep it for future parts, since I plan on keeping my T4R forever unless the engine dies and I might even rebuilt it if that happens, but I like to have various parts and components on hand that I know may need repalcing at some point since I do all my own work on my vehicles.

Edit: Forgot to add that yes I do think that the "Control Module" is the "ABS" and "Skid" ECU.

Do you know how to replace the skid control/ABs ECU and what it entails? There is ome bizarre looking hardware that holds it onto the MC...and I believe requires a "zero point calibration?" What is that?

 

[AuSeeker]

Do you know how to replace the skid control/ABs ECU and what it entails? There is ome bizarre looking hardware that holds it onto the MC...and I believe requires a "zero point calibration?" What is that?

Unfortunately I haven't R&R the ABS ECU, but I seem to remember someone posting that they did but I can't seem to find a topic on it searching the forum, doing the Zero Point calibration can easily be done using a paperclip and there are a few topics describing how to do it on the forum.

When replacing a part I have never replaced before I search for all the info I can, which is much easier now-a-days with the internet, using that info and my many years of mechanical experience I work my way through getting it done.

You can most likely find some info on how it's done via a Toyota full shop manual and or Youtube.

 

[AuSeeker]

I did a little Youtube searching for R&R of the Abs ECU, while I didn't find one for our 4th Gen T4Rs, I did find one for a Camry, which is a bit different since the ABS pump and ECU aren't attached to the master cylinder..BUT the ECU
and removing it sorta looks very similar to me but not looking at our's ECU in front of me so I could be wrong on how similar the R&R will be, but it does give a good idea of how it attaches which I don't think would be much different than how ours would attach, IMHO.

YouTube

Now that being said and posted he doesn't state anything about a Zero Point calibration nor does he show that it solved any issues that the Camry had.

 

[sant6236]

If you haven't ordered a new switch yet, first try and get some electronic spray cleaner to pentetrate into the switch while repeatedly manualy pressing and releasing the switch which may clean whatever is causing it to make contact and lighting the brake light, removing the switch will help get more cleaner into it.

I tried the CRC cleaner on both the harness and connector sides of the brake fluid level sensor &abs/skid control ecu. No change.

 

[sant6236]

I did a little Youtube searching for R&R of the Abs ECU, while I didn't find one for our 4th Gen T4Rs, I did find one for a Camry, which is a bit different since the ABS pump and ECU aren't attached to the master cylinder..BUT the ECU
and removing it sorta looks very similar to me but not looking at our's ECU in front of me so I could be wrong on how similar the R&R will be, but it does give a good idea of how it attaches which I don't think would be much different than how ours would attach, IMHO.

YouTube

Now that being said and posted he doesn't state anything about a Zero Point calibration nor does he show that it solved any issues that the Camry had.

Thanks for this...interesting. Might be worth a shot buying the entire MC with the ECU on Ebay. As of now, it really doesn't make sense for me to do anything, as I have zero symptoms aside from the lights flickering simultaneously and intermittently. If it fails, I wont have ABS or traction control...(I think) and I can make a decision from there. Thoughts?

 

[AuSeeker]

Thanks for this...interesting. Might be worth a shot buying the entire MC with the ECU on Ebay. As of now, it really doesn't make sense for me to do anything, as I have zero symptoms aside from the lights flickering simultaneously and intermittently. If it fails, I wont have ABS or traction control...(I think) and I can make a decision from there. Thoughts?

As long as you're not having any issues with your brakes then holding couldn't hurt...BUT you may want to try and do the Zero Point calibration, it can hurt anything and you never know it could possibly solve your issues even if it's temporary, what the calibration does is put everything back to the orignial starting point for the ECU.

 

[sant6236]

As long as you're not having any issues with your brakes then holding couldn't hurt...BUT you may want to try and do the Zero Point calibration, it can hurt anything and you never know it could possibly solve your issues even if it's temporary, what the calibration does is put everything back to the orignial starting point for the ECU.

I'm a little reluctant to perform ZPC given I have the DAC and would require an additional step 5.

I dont want more lights coming on...ha!

 

[sant6236]

An additional symptom now accompanies the ABS and Brake Light simultaneous flicker. The RPM's on the Tach will Bog down approx. 1000 RPM after the initial engine start up (approx. 50 seconds after engine starts). Has been happening intermittently ONLY in the morning as it goes through its engine warmup cycle. The rest of the day is fine, but lights will still flicker intermittently when brake pedal is applied. What the hell is this!?

 

[sant6236]

I had a local auto repair shop officially diagnose the problem. It's the ABS/Skid Control module, AKA., ABS solenoid...just like we thought. Cost $436 to officially diagnose and $1,066 for part from Mcgeorge. Will cost $100-$200 to install. Alot of $$, but better than being raped at the dealer for $3,500 for entire MC assembly or trading in and buying a new car and getting raped 10 times over.

Fyi..I bought the master cylinder, with reservoir & ABS solenoid together as it was cheaper than just buying the abs solenoid alone. if anyone is interested in a brand new oem master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir with integrated sensor, let me know. Will fit 2006-2009 4Runner.

 

[sant6236]

this ended up being a bad ground that was producing all of my symptoms. the ground was in engine bay on the driver side near the battery. The bolt that was securing the ground was cross threaded...

 

[Dr. Taha]

this ended up being a bad ground that was producing all of my symptoms. the ground was in engine bay on the driver side near the battery. The bolt that was securing the ground was cross threaded...

Could you please show the side with a photo, & how you fix it?

 

[AuSeeker]

Could you please show the side with a photo, & how you fix it?

The person you're quoting/asking this question hasn't been on the forum for over 3 years so he probably isn't going to see your post nor answer

It seems he referring too the ground connection from the battery to the fender, the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender wasn't tight enough because it was crossed threaded.

If your issue is similar , i.e. a bad connection, you need to remove the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender then clean the contact area on the cable eyelet and the contact area on the fender and then reattach the cable.

 

[Dr. Taha]

The person you're quoting/asking this question hasn't been on the forum for over 3 years so he probably isn't going to see your post nor answer

It seems he referring too the ground connection from the battery to the fender, the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender wasn't tight enough because it was crossed threaded.

If your issue is similar , i.e. a bad connection, you need to remove the bolt attaching the ground cable to the fender then clean the contact area on the cable eyelet and the contact area on the fender and then reattach the cable.

Thank you sir, i will try it and get back to you.