2014 catalytic converter theft

You can reflash the ECU to delete the O2 sensor readings and delete the CATs to pass ODBII inspection. I've done this on several vehicles. No big deal.

Edit: this was in response to the comment about having a hard time with the CATs and the engine. The CATs sole purpose is for emissions. Replacing them with straight pipes increase performance especially with a tune.
 
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ScoMey what nbrhd? Keep it in the garage. The 2 insurance quotes I've gotten are $1600 parts and labor and $1200 parts and labor. I can buy the parts (new cat and gaskets) online for about $850. I also could have it welded of course, but I'm an engineer that deals with welding and welds always seem t crack after time when in a hot environment.
 
ScoMey what nbrhd? Keep it in the garage. The 2 insurance quotes I've gotten are $1600 parts and labor and $1200 parts and labor. I can buy the parts (new cat and gaskets) online for about $850. I also could have it welded of course, but I'm an engineer that deals with welding and welds always seem t crack after time when in a hot environment.

Find a piece of 3" steel pipe. Cut in half. Weld the crack shut and grind flat. Weld steel pipe over that crack on all sides if possible. Or tack the top and bottom and weld the sides down. That ***** won't fail. Besides, think about all the hand crafted performance exhausts that have high head exposed to them daily.... it won't fail dude.
 
ScoMey what nbrhd? Keep it in the garage. The 2 insurance quotes I've gotten are $1600 parts and labor and $1200 parts and labor. I can buy the parts (new cat and gaskets) online for about $850. I also could have it welded of course, but I'm an engineer that deals with welding and welds always seem t crack after time when in a hot environment.

Is that not a weld right beside where they tried to cut it? It's an exhaust pipe not a critical structural member. It won't crack but hey, do what you want.
 
ScoMey what nbrhd? Keep it in the garage. The 2 insurance quotes I've gotten are $1600 parts and labor and $1200 parts and labor. I can buy the parts (new cat and gaskets) online for about $850. I also could have it welded of course, but I'm an engineer that deals with welding and welds always seem t crack after time when in a hot environment.

I don't understand, every exhaust I have ever seen is welded together... Any weld can fail, but a non stress seam like that? No way as long as the proper rod/wire is used.
 
ScoMey what nbrhd? Keep it in the garage. The 2 insurance quotes I've gotten are $1600 parts and labor and $1200 parts and labor. I can buy the parts (new cat and gaskets) online for about $850. I also could have it welded of course, but I'm an engineer that deals with welding and welds always seem t crack after time when in a hot environment.

Payne-Phalen, north of Wheelock Parkway, and just west of Arcade. Statistically a low crime area for St. Paul... except for car theft. I keep it in the garage at night, and anytime I'm not around. Hate that, but it's life in the big city...
 
I don't understand, every exhaust I have ever seen is welded together... Any weld can fail, but a non stress seam like that? No way as long as the proper rod/wire is used.

You must only see custom exhausts. Every FACTORY exhaust I've ever seen has always been clamped. I've had a couple of custom exhausts and yes those get welded.
 
You must only see custom exhausts. Every FACTORY exhaust I've ever seen has always been clamped. I've had a couple of custom exhausts and yes those get welded.

All toyota exhausts I've ever seen are both welded sections and then various flange connections. But there will always be welds on them.

I think by clamp you mean bolted flanges. But if not, I've never seen a clamp on a Toyota exhaust if you're talking about clamps like cheap aftermarket mufflers use that are basically large pipe clamps. If you see those, it's not a factory exhaust.
 
You must only see custom exhausts. Every FACTORY exhaust I've ever seen has always been clamped. I've had a couple of custom exhausts and yes those get welded.


Look under your truck. Everything except the assembly joints are welded including the muffler on the 4Runner. Even the OPs pic shows the welds for the cat. The assembly joints also don't use clamps but are bolted together with seals. I've haven't owned a car made in the last 20 years that used clamped sections from the factory.
 
Yes the exhaust is a welded assy from the factory/OEM supplier. The parts are welded in a controlled environment, most likely by robots or automated machine, with plenty of QC. Only point I was making was that I don't trust some dude at exhaust pros or whatever and they can't match original weld quality. I would prob be just fine , I'm just picky. More importantly keep an eye on you 4runner, especially in Minneapolis/st paul area right now.
 
Yes the exhaust is a welded assy from the factory/OEM supplier. The parts are welded in a controlled environment, most likely by robots or automated machine, with plenty of QC. Only point I was making was that I don't trust some dude at exhaust pros or whatever and they can't match original weld quality. I would prob be just fine , I'm just picky. More importantly keep an eye on you 4runner, especially in Minneapolis/st paul area right now.

Your just on the wrong side of the river :lmao:
 
I had cat stolen from my 95 Tacoma 4x4 four years ago. Not fun at all. After installing a new converter I ended up with adding custom made shell/skid plate which completely covers this "precious piece of equipment" from thieves.

After I got 2012 4Runner I found that there are two converters exposed with no protection at all. I was not happy with that at all. I was looking for some similar protection I had in my Tacoma and the closest I could get was OR-FAB Skid Plate / Cat Theft 05-14 Toyota Tacoma 6 Lug Trucks ONLY. OR-FAB did not have such skid for 4Runner and they could not confirm it will fit but I decided to give it a try. I measured both frames under the transmission and it was close enough.

I got the skid of ebay for $156.60 no tax, free UPS shipping. I ordered it on August 15, the skid arrived 5 days later. Not bad at all. The box was huge

4runner_skid_01.jpg


Inside the skid was well packed and protected from "UPS guy" with foil and sprayed-on foam.

4runner_skid_02.jpg


Now trying the skid on my 4Runner I found that it is not direct fit, but quite close.

1. Brackets holding cross-member under the transmission in my 4Runner are kind of sticking out (hanging lower than cross-member) so I had to trim the sides of the skid by exactly 1 inch. Super easy with angular grinder and metal cutting wheel.

4runner_skid_03.jpg


2. Original holes for mounting a skid to a cross-member under the transmission do not have corresponding holes in my 4Runner. However there are two M8 threaded holes on my 4Runner on each side of cross-member. I decided to use these holes form skid mounting. I drilled two additional 8.5mm holes in OR-FAB skid plate. No big deal either.

4runner_skid_04.jpg


These are all modifications for skid I had to do. Modified OR-FAB skid plate shown on the picture below.

4runner_skid_05.jpg


And now it is mounted under the car.

4runner_skid_07.jpg


For this picture I used some M8 bolts I have laying around, but they are replaced with stainless steel button cap bolts with hex key.

The front mounting holes in my 4Runner are exactly in the same spot as in Tacoma frame. I just followed OR-FAB instruction.

4runner_skid_06.jpg


But there is a "gotcha" - factory front skid plate in 4Runner is different than in Tacoma. In Tacoma the center of front cross-member is exposed, so OR-FAB skid fits perfectly. In 4Runner the entire cross-member is covered with skid plate and there is an extension plate bolted to it.

That portion of factory skid plate is not needed anymore so I cut off both brackets used to mount the extension. Additionally one of the holes in cross-member that OR-FAB skid is using it is used for hook sticking up of factory skid plate. It was also cut off.

Now the OR-FAB skid front mounting screws are covered with stock skid plate.

4runner_skid_09.jpg


4runner_skid_10.jpg


It is possible to use most outer holes in transmission cross-member using original OR-FAB hardware but I would have to shorten bars which are welded to OR-FAB nuts and use my own over-sized washers under the bolt as holes in skid plate are quite big. On this picture you can see why I had to cut off corners from OR-FAB skid plate

4runner_skid_08.jpg


Now both converters are not visible and not accessible to vandals - from the bottom and from both sides.

4runner_skid_11.jpg


In order to get to them a thieve will have to have two different hex keys and 12mm socket required to remove two skid plates (total 8 bolts). I believe they will find it to difficult and not worth the trouble. I hope I'm right.

The only inconvenience of having that skid is that it has to be removed for greasing front shaft - oh boy, a little bit more work every 5k service.
 
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My 1997 4runner cat was sawed off last year while at the Firestone dealer in River Falls, WI; who would want a 17 year old cat? The lowlife of the metro invaded rural and scenic, WI?

Perhaps lowering by 3" vs. lifting by 3" would be a deterrent?
 

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