2015 Dash Speaker Upgrade -- Simple Solution (Non-JBL with Nav)

[DEERUNNER]

Often the simple solution is all that is needed. No cut, easily undone. But I will not be undoing this! The sound difference is really an amazing upgrade. Now I just need to add some wooferage.

Based it on the factory wiring diagram as featured here and in the factory wiring diagram:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/attac...83433-location-factory-amplifier-img301-1.jpg

The photo shows most of what is needed to know. Used 18 gauge wire. Striped and bent the ends, pushed them in nice and snug, matched polarity, taped the bundle together, added foam surrounding the speakers, done. The bent over wires complete the necessary parallel wiring circuit, then added extension wires for the new speakers. Had Polk DXi350 speakers left over from an upgrade in the FJ.

And looking down through the windshield.

Rock on!

 

[simple]

Very cool. Is it really that easy? What's that black thing hanging off the red speaker wire?

 

[marshal]

Looks like a capacitor

 

[manofsteele2003]

Very cool. Is it really that easy? What's that black thing hanging off the red speaker wire?

It's a bass blocker, filters out the signal that produces bass so you don't get the distortion in the small speakers.

 

[rigtec]

Often the simple solution is all that is needed. No cut, easily undone. But I will not be undoing this! The sound difference is really an amazing upgrade.

Hi DEERUNNER,

This is a 'great write up', and solution to an age old problem! I have two or three questions, (1) Did you need to modify the speaker mounting bracket to fit the 'Polk DXi350' in the dash? (2) What size HPF (uf/cut-off frequency) is that in the first photo; does that protect the woofer, the tweeter, or both? And (3) Does the tweeter have it's own built-in HPF? Once again... 'GREAT POST!'

Cheers!

 

[DEERUNNER]

Hi DEERUNNER,
This is a 'great write up', and solution to an age old problem! I have two or three questions, (1) Did you need to modify the speaker mounting bracket to fit the 'Polk DXi350' in the dash? (2) What size HPF (uf/cut-off frequency) is that in the first photo; does that protect the woofer, the tweeter, or both? And (3) Does the tweeter have it's own built-in HPF? Once again... 'GREAT POST!'
Cheers!

Thanks all. This works well and was simple to do. It is also a good solution for those that are not willing to cut any wires.
1. Did not use the OEM bracket so did not modify it. I did make a little bracket about 1.25-1.5" long with a hole on each end, one end for the speaker and one to attach to the 4R. I used thick plastic.
2. The capacitor rating is 200uF for abour 200Hz cutoff. That cap acts as a bass blocker and protects the woofer and the tweeter.
3. The Polk does have an additional cap to filter the tweeter. No idea what the rating is, could never read it as it is shrink wrapped.

 

[jasonv]

so actually not that simple. but thanks.

 

[simple]

:happens:

Thanks all. This works well and was simple to do. It is also a good solution for those that are not willing to cut any wires.
1. Did not use the OEM bracket so did not modify it. I did make a little bracket about 1.25-1.5" long with a hole on each end, one end for the speaker and one to attach to the 4R. I used thick plastic.
2. The capacitor rating is 200uF for abour 200Hz cutoff. That cap acts as a bass blocker and protects the woofer and the tweeter.
3. The Polk does have an additional cap to filter the tweeter. No idea what the rating is, could never read it as it is shrink wrapped.

Hmm. Does it actually require a capacitor? And could I do this with any speaker, or does the Polk set you up pretty well.

And why did you jump the outside wires to the inside?

 

[DEERUNNER]

:happens:
Hmm. Does it actually require a capacitor? And could I do this with any speaker, or does the Polk set you up pretty well.
And why did you jump the outside wires to the inside?

--All speakers, especially smaller speakers, benefit from some sort of crossover or frequency blocker. No need to send to it frequencies that the speaker cannot reproduce. At least not without massive amounts of distortion. Bass blockers are available from the usual vendors.
--The dash speaker and front door speakers are wired in parallel (not in-series Thanks, Rig.). The OEM speakers perform that function right at the speaker and its connector. Removal of the OEM speaker breaks that continuity. Adding the jumpers allows for the dash and door speakers to continue functioning. Have a look at the wiring diagram for clarity.

 

[rigtec]

"...--The dash speaker and front door speakers are wired in-series. The OEM speakers perform that function right at the speaker and its connector. Removal of the OEM speaker breaks that continuity. Adding the jumpers allows for the dash and door speakers to continue functioning. Have a look at the wiring diagram for clarity."

Hi DEERUNNER,

Don't mean to spoil the vibe on such an informative speaker thread, however... I did grab a look at the diagram that you've posted in the link but according to that schematic, and my own, Here's what I found. At first glance this would appear to be a 'typical' 'Series' wiring terminal adapter block with a 'built-in' hpf plug. However, further examination reveals that these two speakers (Dash to doors) are wired together in 'Parallel' (and not in series); I think that this is an important distinction.

Looking closely at the harness connector, the wires are arranged in such a way that even if you were to cut both wires at either one of the speakers, the remaining speaker would still operate independently of the other; this can't happen in a series wiring configuration. I've traced the wires to both speaker circuits (One in blue, one in pink) in the diagrams to make it easier to follow the wiring path; I've also inverted the print (deliberately) for a little better clarity of the parallel scheme; "See below":



The blue arrow in the photo below denotes the wiring position of the voice-coil (in RED) of the door speakers; this is how that white harness connector is able to feed the door speakers in a 'parallel' wiring configuration.



That said... I think (this could be wrong) that these front speakers may all be 4ohms; in which case, wiring them together IN PARALLEL would yield a combined total impedance of 2ohms (L & R front channels).

Best to you!

 

[DEERUNNER]

Thanks. Yes, parallel is correct (I do know the difference) and I did use the wrong terminology. All else is correct, the door speakers do go silent when the plug is removed, the parallel connection is made at the speaker/plug. The wires need to be connected together or use a jumper as I have done. Great diagram, nice having the wiring all on one page.

 

[rigtec]

Thanks. Yes, parallel is correct (I do know the difference) and I did use the wrong terminology..."

It's obvious that you understood the differences between the two schemes or you wouldn't have been able to make it work hahaha! But I thought it was important to point out the mis-wording for the benefit of those who may be learning to 'Spot and identify' the two different wiring arrangements... 'At-a-glance!'

Best!

 

[DEERUNNER]

I have received a couple of PMs with basically the same questions. Here are the common answers from those PMs. If anyone has any additional questions ask them here as a reply so all on T4Rorg can read. And lazy me can just answer them one time and right here. Thanks for the interest.

--Bass Blockers: many speakers of this size include an appropriate capacitor. Use it. If not, order from one of the usual vendors/sites. Any of them would work, 150-300=more mid/bass, depends if you want any mid bass at all, 600-800=less mids/no bass. I used 200Hz.
--Speaker Efficiency: Try to use a very efficient speaker. There is no way to adjust them to be louder or to balance them, so don't be disappointed with a speaker that is not loud enough: get a more efficient speaker. Mine seem to be just about the right loudness. I used 91dB speakers.
--Wiring: All wiring to the left of the OEM connector is added. The loops are to keep the circuit connected so that the front door speakers also keep working. The bass blocker cap is connect to the positive side of the harness and speaker. My solid core wire was a perfect, snug fit. I used 18g.
--Speaker Depth: I do not know what the maximum depth is. I do know that the Polk speaker I used did bottom out on the passenger side. Polk claims 1-5/8" depth.
--Speaker Grill: I did trim/remove the surrounding plastic from the bottom of the OEM grill. To avoid pressing on the surround, you also may need to do this.
--Speaker mounting: I placed foam completely around the speaker once it was installed. Keeps the out-of-phase sound from the rear of the speaker from smearing and cancelling the sound from the front of the speaker. This is important, especially if one has trimmed the rear of the speaker grill. Any old sort of foam will do, but get something that is not sensitive to UV or it will disintegrate.

 

[fernie]

I have seen in other posts that folks have re-used the blue factory harness / cross over that came with the original speakers as seen in this thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/195570-dash-speaker-replacement-help.html

Does your method of wiring it and using the bass blocker take the place of the factory harness / cross over while also keeping the circuit connected to the front door speakers?

 

[DEERUNNER]

I have seen in other posts that folks have re-used the blue factory harness / cross over that came with the original speakers as seen in this thread.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/195570-dash-speaker-replacement-help.html
Does your method of wiring it and using the bass blocker take the place of the factory harness / cross over while also keeping the circuit connected to the front door speakers?

--My technique fully preserves the factory speaker in case one wants to go back to stock. And does not use any part of it. No need to snap the blue section off and reuse it.
--Most 3.5" speakers already have a capacitor attached to them to act as a filter/crossover. That cap is usually integral to the speaker, glued or attached in some manner. It lets the highs through to the tweeter and allows the small woof to try and reproduce whatever it is sent.
--The bass blocker assures that no unwanted frequencies reach the speaker. i.e., low frequencies that the speaker could not reproduce anyway. All the lows would do is cause massive distortion.
--So, the crossover in this scenario is comprised of the bass blocker and the 3.5" speakers' own built-in capacitor.
--The yellow jumper wires take the place of the factory blue section, they keep the circuit properly connected.

 

[Piggy14]

Do you happen to know if the speakers are 91db @ 2.83V/1m or @ 1w/1m?

It's 1w.

 

[BlueTick_]

Installing JBL Subwoofer into non-JBL equiped TRDPro

I'm trying to find out how to install this 86150-0W120 Subwoofer that Limited Models already have installed. I've found the speaker but I'm not sure what interior panels I need to enclose and cover the woofer so it looks factory.

Can someone please help?

A link to the subwoofer:
86150-0W120 | Toyota OEM Parts |*WOOFER for 2015 Toyota 4Runner

This is what I want it to look like http://www.toyota.com/content/vehicle-landing/2015/4runner/features/img/desktop/technology-5.jpg

 

[rigtec]

Do you happen to know if the speakers are 91db @ 2.83V/1m or @ 1w/1m?

It's 1w.

Hi Piggy14,

To answer your question: 2.83V into an 8ohm load translates to 1w. 2.83V into a 4ohm load = 2 watts, and 2.83V into a 2ohm load = 4 watts. So you have to watch these marketing agency/manufacturers, who will sometimes advertise a driver as having a 90 dB sensitivity rating, but what they don't tell you is that, to get 90 dB's out of it (measured @1m) they had to feed it 4 watts; bolstering it's apparent capability (2.83V into 2ohms NOT the standardized 1w input); which is 4X the input to that of their competitors 'relatively similar' driver. So their 90 dB driver turns out to be 400% less sensitive than the competitor's comparably advertised speaker! ...Just something to watch out for!

Rgds

 

[simple]

I've done the above mentioned and really had no issues. But some other post gave me the idea and I had some free time today. To take the original connector off the original speaker just bend back the white plastic tabs with a knife and pry the blue connector away from the white. There' some glue there, but it comes off fairly easy.

To separate the connector, I opted to desolder the connection because there's not a lot of wire to play with, but you could snip it.

I don't know if the little black thing is a bass blocker, as you can see my original one pictured too. But I left the big white one off. The bass is stronger now, but I haven't had any muffling or distortion. If there is some, I'll add the old bass blocker back.

I just twisted the wires together so I could take them apart later if needed, and secured it with electrical tape. I like this solution quite a bit; thought I'd share.

 

[DEERUNNER]

I don't know if the little black thing is a bass blocker, as you can see my original one pictured too. But I left the big white one off. The bass is stronger now, but I haven't had any muffling or distortion. If there is some, I'll add the old bass blocker back.

--See Post #15 for more info and answer to your question.
--Yes, your solution has been done before, there are many threads where others have basically done as you have done.