2015 sr5 premium audio upgrade

[dshag]

Haven't been on the forums in a while and need some input. I read and researched as much info as I could but would like opinions.

I purchased the following...
Jl audio c2 3.5in for dash
Jl audio c2 6x9 3 way for front
Sound deadening material 18square ft @80 mil thick
Pioneer 8604 amp 4 channel x 100 watts @4 ohm
Metra 6x9 brackets
Metra factory speaker plugins
Knuconceptz 4 ga ofc amp install kit w 20ft 12 ga ofc speaker wire
Tspec 4 ga screw on terminal

What I'm still deciding on is...
Bass blockers for dash spkrs or a processor like kicker front row or audio control unit or just a clarion equalize

My understanding is I need something that sums the signal together from my factory head unit before it gets sent to the speakers again. I'd like to use the factory hu to power the dash speakers and hatch speakers and the amp for front and rear door. Factory wiring is parallel in the front, id like to rerun the wire just not sure how hard that would be.

I plan to just do the front speakers for now and see how that goes. I might have someone do some of it depending on how much time I have to work on it myself. I'm not planning on adding a sub as I have a 3rd row. Opinions are appreciated...

 

[keyser_soze]

Looks like a good plan. Have you thought about getting component speakers for the front instead of the 3.5" and 6x9" combo?

If you do go with the 3.5" the bass blockers would be a good idea.

Personally I would leave the rear and hatch speakers alone. They work fine as rear fill and with amplified fronts you wont hear them much anyways.

The sound processor would make a noticeable improvement in sound and you would be able customize the sound to your liking more than the factory settings. It will also add a lot to your budget and you will have to run wires for the rear speakers as well.

 

[sleazy_4runner]

The shop i took it to ran my 3.5 c2 off the factory stereo. 6.9 front door(ch1/2) & 6.5 rear door/trunk(ch3/4) and Ch5 bass. Also they used JL fix processor.

 

[rigtec]

"Haven't been on the forums in a while and need some input. I read and researched as much info as I could but would like opinions.

I purchased the following...
Jl audio c2 3.5in for dash
Jl audio c2 6x9 3 way for front
Sound deadening material 18square ft @80 mil thick
Pioneer 8604 amp 4 channel x 100 watts @4 ohm
Metra 6x9 brackets
Metra factory speaker plugins
Knuconceptz 4 ga ofc amp install kit w 20ft 12 ga ofc speaker wire
Tspec 4 ga screw on terminal

What I'm still deciding on is...
Bass blockers for dash spkrs or a processor like kicker front row or audio control unit or just a clarion equalize..."

Hi dshag,

As far as the dash tweeters, they come with their own properly assigned high pass filters; nothing else is needed there. Then you mentioned a sub... Use [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] subwoofer install thread; it's likely the best, most through install tutorial write-up on this forum (mounts underneath the driver/passenger seat): http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/92013-antman-s-thread-18.html#post989173 Let us know how you make out!

rig

 

[dshag]

Thanks for the feedback. Which dps/equalizer/crossover is the best way to go? The kicker front row doesn't have eq ability. Audio control eql? Dqdx? Something else?

I considered component speakers but prefer to keep to keep factory sizes and 6x9s should do a little more low end which I like since I don't plan on a sub.

 

[keyser_soze]

Thanks for the feedback. Which dps/equalizer/crossover is the best way to go? The kicker front row doesn't have eq ability. Audio control eql? Dqdx? Something else?

I considered component speakers but prefer to keep to keep factory sizes and 6x9s should do a little more low end which I like since I don't plan on a sub.

You really don't have to get a DSP. Mine sounded great before I got a DSP, but I got it for a great deal so I figured why not.

If you do decide to get a DSP get a good one. JBL MS8, Audison bit ten/ bit one etc... I wouldnt get get the audio control stuff. And keep in mind it will need to be tuned, if you dont plan on doing it yourself dont forget to add that to your budget.

Also some DSPs dont have a speaker level output. If it doesnt you will have to have an amp for all of the speakers you plan to use.

 

[77Bronc]

I am not sure of all of the details on the components that the OP listed, but I will add this.

I recently changed all of my speakers in my 2015 TP to Kicker brand with the exception of the dash speakers, those are still stock.

Made the OEM audio unit sound much better. If you look at the quality of the factory speakers, you can only laugh, what cheap build and materials were used.

The wiring system on the factory is strange, the rear hatch speakers seem to be wired in series with the rear door. Without the rear door speakers installed, the hatch will not work.

If i were to do this all over again I would pull all new wire to each speaker. I would use the separates in the front, tweeters in the dash, woofers in the door. I not sure where the cross over is on the OEM front speakers, but I am convinced the new Kickers (2 ways) in the door are not get along with the OEM dash speakers, I feel there is room for improvement.

Coaxial speakers in the rear door and possibly remove the hatch speakers and not install any there. I am not a fan of sub woofers, as if you install the best and right speaker, you don't need one. My opinion only.

The best sounding system I have ever installed in any vehicle was in my 2005 F150. I had a Pioneer ADV4000 head unit, DVD bypass switch so I could run the video without being in park. Infinity Kappas, 5 x 7s all the way around. Copious amounts of Dynamat in the doors and surround metal. No amp or sub and it sounded great. I had so many compliments on this system, people could not believe the sound was coming from 8 watts of power x 4.

Just my comments. I have been wanting to post this since i installed my speakers last month, and this was a good thread to do this. Good luck.

77

 

[Auntie Soshul]

Which dps/equalizer/crossover is the best way to go? The kicker front row doesn't have eq ability. Audio control eql? Dqdx? Something else?

Obviously, expect varying opinions, but I installed an AudioControl DQ-61 in my SR5, and it improved the sound quality 100%. There is a write-up of the install elsewhere on this forum.

 

[rigtec]

"Thanks for the feedback. Which dps/equalizer/crossover is the best way to go? The kicker front row doesn't have eq ability. Audio control eql? Dqdx? Something else?..."

I'm using the 'mini-DSP-in-a-box' 2x4. It's only 4 x 4 x 2 inches in size and is mounted under the driverseat where I have the amps. You do all of your sound setting on your laptop via a micro USB which plugs into your computer via USB 2.0. Your adjustments are made in 'Real time' so you'll hear the changes while you're making your adjustments! No internet needed; except for the initial software download which costs $10 dollars "one time". When you're done making your sound adjustments you just unplug the usb from your laptop and that's it; it'll stay the way you set it until you decide to tweak it again! Here's what the mini-DSP 2X4 looks like:

This device has two inputs (L & R channels from the hu) and four outputs, to feed two amps. The signal it receives comes from the HU and is processed. From there the signal is fed to the amps. The 'mini-DSP' costs $110 bucks and user friendly. There's a amplifier sequencer board that keeps things super quiet and prevents that power surge POP!!! when the system is turned on (costs about $10 bucks but is absolutely necessary to protect those speakers from that on/off thump). Here's my mini-DSP setup under the driverseat with the power amps:

Here's the data sheet: http://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/Product Brief-MiniDSP 2x4 Box.pdf and the user manual:http://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/miniDSP 2x4 and Kit - User Manual v2.1.pdf

I'm only using this processor for my subs but it's extremely flexible! Here's what a typical EQ screen looks like on mine:

It comes with an extensive cross-over network so no need to buy anything else to operate it! And the best thing is... it's size and cost!

Best to you, rig!

 

[dshag]

Got the dash speakers installed. Wasn't to bad and sounds better for sure. More mid bass and better highs. I was surprised how cheap the factory speakers are. Reminds me of cardboard. I'm debating on hooking up the amp a differently. I planned to do the door speakers to it and dash/hatch to the head unit. If I run it how its wired now in parallel then it would be 2ohms which my amp is rated at 150 watts rms so 75 each. At 4 ohms its 100 watts. Only concern would be the dash speakers peak are 75 watts and rms is 50 watts. Is it correct that it will be 150 watts even tho speakers are 4ohms each? I'm new to car audio