231mm / 199mm Tundra Brake Upgrade ABS Function Survey

[fourfive]

Feel free to suggest changes ...[additions]... to this poll.

Would be interesting to also see a comparison of...

1. ABS issues experienced on stock brakes?

2. Those with TBA 231mm, were ABS issues experienced with stock brakes? If so, did the frequency of ABS issues become worse or better?

3. Those with TBA 199mm, were ABS issues experienced with stock brakes? If so, did the frequency of ABS issues become worse or better?


Curious about the above 3 because I've heard about ABS issues on 3rd gens but never paid attention regarding the owners brake set up. Knock on wood but so far on stock oem brakes, I haven't had any weird ABS issues the handful of times I had to do hard braking in various good or bad weather conditions.

 

[Yoter]

Thank you to everyone who has contributed their experience so far!
This is a good start to understanding the effects of the 13WL calipers on the ABS system.

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] Really good points about the stock brake issues because our 4Runner are definitely prone to ABS issues regardless of modification. I don't know how to edit the poll? I probably has to be done by a moderator. I will try and add the options that can be selected in addition to the existing options for pre TBU ABS problems.

 

[lext4r]

I'm looking forward to hopefully having a definitive answer to the ABS/TBU question. I've toyed with doing this upgrade but the potential to have ABS issues seriously worries me.

 

[OU4x4]

i'm in an '01 and so far on dry pavement i've had no issues, behaves as stock
in the snow however the abs comes on more frequently. nothing crazy or weird sliding just the pulsing and longer stopping times.
should be expected though since we're putting stronger brakes on our rigs. right?

 

[Snowden]

199mm TBU

To be fair I live in California and other than some occasional off road use my Runner doesn't experience significant weather (at least not since I did the upgrade about 2 years ago - we've been in a severe drought with no real winters to speak of). But I do actually recall an odd one time ABS 'event' in the snow up in Tahoe several years ago back when I was still running the original stock set up.

Since doing the upgrade it has been a remarkable difference over stock. No more warped rotors and shaking steering wheel when stopping thus far. And the stopping power, especially when towing, was immediately noticeable upon upgrading. I went with 199mm option because I felt it was more about getting the thicker rotors as much as the larger calipers and I had read that the 231mm calipers had clearance issues with some wheels, especially the factory spare. I have since changed my wheels to the Tacoma Snowflakes and my spare is now also a Snowflake so that doesn't matter as much now. But I'm very happy at least knowing I have the 199mm TBU. I pc'd my new calipers in red for some eye candy and to match the red coilovers of my Toytech Lift. Works cool, looks cool IMHO...

One footnote. As some posts elsewhere did comment, expect the brake pedal to depress a bit further before contact after the upgrade. The mechanics can do a better job of explaining why this is but I did find this to be true and I am well use to it by now without a second thought.

:reddance:

 

[GhostRing]

Despite a few gallons of bleeding the brakes, I still can't get a firm pedal, nor lock up the tires. Everything in the brake system has been replaced, less the booster and the ABS unit. My next step is to remove ABS entirely, and am considering a different type of MC. 2000 with 231's.

my '98 with 231's has similar issue...
Sort of mushy pedal (ABS on or off - currently driving with it off) despite
a very comprehensive bleed. My rears still need a bit of attention though.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

my '98 with 231's has similar issue...
Sort of mushy pedal (ABS on or off - currently driving with it off) despite
a very comprehensive bleed. My rears still need a bit of attention though.

If your rears need attention that might be the reason for the mushy pedal. A quick test to check the distance between your shoe to drum(thus causing a low pedal) is to pull up your e brake. If it comes up all the way then you probably need to adjust your rear brakes. My e brake comes up about half way

 

[Snowden]

E-brake

If your rears need attention that might be the reason for the mushy pedal. A quick test to check the distance between your shoe to drum(thus causing a low pedal) is to pull up your e brake. If it comes up all the way then you probably need to adjust your rear brakes. My e brake comes up about half way

Sorry but I don't follow this logic? The e-brake cable itself can just be stretched and has no bearing on the rear brake pad condition IMO... A common problem especially if you wheel rocks because you use the e-brake to hold the rig allot. Or am I missing something here?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Sorry but I don't follow this logic? The e-brake cable itself can just be stretched and has no bearing on the rear brake pad condition IMO... A common problem especially if you wheel rocks because you use the e-brake to hold the rig allot. Or am I missing something here?

The e brake can can tell approximately how far the distance between the shoe and the drum. If you turn the adjustment wheel and widen the distance and pull your ebrake handle then you have to pull it back further to contact the drum. Vice versa when you turn the wheel to tighten up the distance. Then you don't have to pull the ebrake as far up to make contact with the drum. Mind you, your bell cranks have to be properly adjusted but I've consistently seen this on my truck and other vehicles I've had with drum brakes. Make sense?

EDIT: we are not talking about shoe condition only distance between shoe and drum

 

[JohnMc]

'99 with 231mm Tundra swap here. No issues that I've noticed with the brakes, but although I've had the brake swap on for 3 or 4 years, I haven't really had that many panic braking situations. AFAIK they are working correctly, I have gone full on braking a time or two and not *heard* squealing tires, but that was in a straight line. On ice, they act fairly squirelly, but mostly just not letting the brakes do much at all, not locking the fronts.

 

[Myrunr2010]

Well Yoter, I'm glad you put a poll together. I have a lot more confidence in going with the 231s than the 199s I was considering after reading SS's webpage about it.

 

[Cburson]

Trd fj beadstyle 16

Does anyone know if the 231 calibers will fit with the fj trd beadstyle 16” wheels or the 199 calibers

 

[redstar]

I've actually had both the 199mm and 231mm brakes on my '01. The 199mm for almost 2 years and the 231mm for 4 years. Cant say I've had braking issues at all since switching from stock.

 

[kolelt]

I know this has been covered million of times. But there is a good kit on amazon for tundra upgrade. I just don’t remember the brand/name ! Also I’m on market for quality rotors and pads.

 

[NicNac]

I know this an old thread but I'm really interested in the results as I was getting ready to do the upgrade myself. I have a 97 with stock brakes and this past winter my front end did lock up and send me into a curb on an ice sheet of a road. Honestly just chalked it down to my crappy tires didn't consider that it could've been the ABS.

 

[Krommeweg]

If your rears need attention that might be the reason for the mushy pedal. A quick test to check the distance between your shoe to drum(thus causing a low pedal) is to pull up your e brake. If it comes up all the way then you probably need to adjust your rear brakes. My e brake comes up about half way

I have found this to be correct as well. Adjusting the rears after installing strong front brakes made my rig very stable and easy to drive.

(Except the tired stock suspension dips its nose every time I touch the brakes. More of a slight annoyance than an issue. Old dampers, tired springs.)

I have a '99 with the 199mm 13WE (StopTech, not OEM...) and regularly travel on gravel roads, severe grades, sand, shallow water, etc. The brake upgrade was done in April of this year, so I haven't really put them through a full winter yet.

I have felt the ABS engage on snowy roads, but I have never felt like it prevented me from stopping any quicker, or lead to a loss of control. I use 10 ply studded tires in the winter.

I have only locked up the fronts once. This was with stock brakes. Descending a 9% grade while towing, on absolutely smooth sheet ice, at about 35 - 40mph. On "summer" AT light truck tires. I barely pulsed the brakes and downshifted into 2nd. (my mistake...) After losing traction in a split second, the rig was sliding freely down the hill. All that stopped us was the snow bank on the opposite side of the road. Everything happened so fast, I'm not sure the ABS even engaged.

If you're ever in Alaska, I would recommend not towing on the Glen highway in January. Even if you're smarter than me, and you have appropriate tires.

... just my $0.02

 

[Arv]

I know this an old thread but I'm really interested in the results as I was getting ready to do the upgrade myself. I have a 97 with stock brakes and this past winter my front end did lock up and send me into a curb on an ice sheet of a road. Honestly just chalked it down to my crappy tires didn't consider that it could've been the ABS.

Did you even find out what the results were? What did you end up with and what kit? I'm getting ready to do mine too on a 00 sport. Best not to get cross drilled from what I've read so far. Thanks.

 

[Drubthop]

Late I know,

231mm w/ABS Light, slotted cryotech rotors, hawk tow pads, mushy pedal, but stops once pedal is depressed 1/2-2/3rds travel.

I have had it to several Toyota DLrs, the only way to get the ABS to work, Toyota, is to remove ABS pin @ CC module, then no Cruise Control.

 

[Devbot]

Was gonna make the switch soon after my lift, and after seeing the poll I'm curious as to why someone would choose the 231mm over the 199mm? Especially considering it needs a little fitment

 

[Arv]

Was gonna make the switch soon after my lift, and after seeing the poll I'm curious as to why someone would choose the 231mm over the 199mm? Especially considering it needs a little fitment

Bigger is better you know? However I went the conservative route and just put on my 199s. Still working on my rear axle leak so I haven't driven it yet.

Late I know,

231mm w/ABS Light, slotted cryotech rotors, hawk tow pads, mushy pedal, but stops once pedal is depressed 1/2-2/3rds travel.

I have had it to several Toyota DLrs, the only way to get the ABS to work, Toyota, is to remove ABS pin @ CC module, then no Cruise Control.

Wow.