24f AGM battery fitment question

[hinmo24t]

can anyone tell me whos dropped in a 24f agm with no modifications with shims, stretching or extending cables? just flooded info everywhere on it. looks like maybe the diehard one except people say its super heavy for an agm (then again they say its a redtop in a different cover)...but the red tops need a shim and cables barely fit i heard, have to stretch them extra.

i like the X2 24f version, not positive if thats a good fit with stock tray and cables?

im replacing an old 24f ac delco ive had it for 3ish years and it didnt start one time i left music on or something a bit too long. good battery. almost considered going with typical fresh walmart BJs interstate etc battery but i wheel and live in cold area, adding winch and small lightbar soon, and wouldnt mind the cleaner battery.

if you could chime in on if you need to trickle charge (special with agm?)
id almost consider going regular new 24f battery if my 2004 alternator i run thru water wont handle the charge of the agm and i have to charge it every few mos or so. i tend to have a lot of short commutes and wheel every week or two. read from honest source a regular battery and lightbar + winch used reasonably will be fine too.

dont want to run big heavy 27f or modify anything once again

thanks

 

[81runner]

Currently running duralast 24f AGM. Fits perfectly, no modification. What's you want to check though, is the charge coming from the alternator, if it's not around 13.6v minimum, that's not good for long term usage on AGM.

 

[hinmo24t]

[MENTION=217462]81runner[/MENTION] thanks and good point...worst case blow an alternator and out $600 at indi mechanic? Or kill battery that way...hmm

I kind of wonder for the amount of ppl w a winch or agm24 out there with tacoma or 4th or 5th gens you dont hear of alternator or real life charge issue too much. I do a lot of short trips like I said and its a daily tho

 

[81runner]

So what basically happens to the battery is similar to "memory" on an old re-chargable battery. You basically lose "x" amount of storage capacity because it isn't being used. Don't think most people would pick up on it until they really ask for more from the battery ie frozen and left headlights on...

The fix is incredibly simple, just replace the sense fuse to the alternator with a diode, and there you go, 13.2 tend charge is now 13.8 tend charge.

Do you plan to use the truck for camping or have accessories you plan on adding down the road?

 

[hinmo24t]

So what basically happens to the battery is similar to "memory" on an old re-chargable battery. You basically lose "x" amount of storage capacity because it isn't being used. Don't think most people would pick up on it until they really ask for more from the battery ie frozen and left headlights on...

The fix is incredibly simple, just replace the sense fuse to the alternator with a diode, and there you go, 13.2 tend charge is now 13.8 tend charge.

Do you plan to use the truck for camping or have accessories you plan on adding down the road?

thanks. i saw a thread about that diode. do you know a part # or if there are ANY associated electrical/alternator strains caused by it? 13.8 is still lower than max AGM voltage, but thats fine because they never go to 100%?

i do not plan to add a fridge or a ton of lights, no.

my winch, 22" lightbar, radar, and that is it.

looking for more suggestions on 24f agm that is a clean fit, not too stretched or modified tray/shim/clamp/cables/etc.

 

[riceandpho]

fit the biggest, 31 fits, 27f fits.

i run dual group 31 though with what i have.

some of the group 31 might have the negative post too high and itll hit the hood. some reason the northstar battery i have is like that, took that post off and used a bolt and change the wires with ring terminals, i have alot of those and used a hydraulic crimp. the other brand odyssey battery was a better fit, the negative post is just right.

 

[81runner]

fit the biggest, 31 fits, 27f fits.

i run dual group 31 though with what i have.

some of the group 31 might have the negative post too high and itll hit the hood. some reason the northstar battery i have is like that, took that post off and used a bolt and change the wires with ring terminals, i have alot of those and used a hydraulic crimp. the other brand odyssey battery was a better fit, the negative post is just right.

Do you have the pair side by side in the oem location or did you have to mount the second elsewhere? I'm looking into getting a pair of 31s under the hood

 

[81runner]

thanks. i saw a thread about that diode. do you know a part # or if there are ANY associated electrical/alternator strains caused by it? 13.8 is still lower than max AGM voltage, but thats fine because they never go to 100%?

i do not plan to add a fridge or a ton of lights, no.

my winch, 22" lightbar, radar, and that is it.

looking for more suggestions on 24f agm that is a clean fit, not too stretched or modified tray/shim/clamp/cables/etc.

Amazon.com: 25 x 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes: Automotive

What I used, and I have lots of spares.
No strain on the alternator, it just tricks the voltage regulator into pumping out .6v more than it normally does. So when engine starts, you'll get almost 14.8, but it will drop down as the battery comes up in charge. Strain on the alternator comes when you either exceed the amperage in demand that the alternator can put out (stock is 140), or you get a dead battery that takes out the alternator through an internal short. Second type is most common with standard flooded lead acid batteries, and very common when you use them off road. My first alternator went that way. I haven't heard of an agm failing this way, but then I'm not exactly a guru on the subject, just knowledgeable to a degree. So the winch doesn't run full time (I hope not lol) and the light bar depends on total wattage, but I doubt it's enough to pull the voltage down very far at all on a stock alternator. Radar is a cig lighter plug, so very small load. No other things running, no custom stereo or radio comms? Ejection seats for annoying passengers (I'm snowballing at this point)?

 

[hinmo24t]

Amazon.com: 25 x 1N4004 400V 1A Axial Lead Silicon Rectifier Diodes: Automotive

What I used, and I have lots of spares.
No strain on the alternator, it just tricks the voltage regulator into pumping out .6v more than it normally does. So when engine starts, you'll get almost 14.8, but it will drop down as the battery comes up in charge. Strain on the alternator comes when you either exceed the amperage in demand that the alternator can put out (stock is 140), or you get a dead battery that takes out the alternator through an internal short. Second type is most common with standard flooded lead acid batteries, and very common when you use them off road. My first alternator went that way. I haven't heard of an agm failing this way, but then I'm not exactly a guru on the subject, just knowledgeable to a degree. So the winch doesn't run full time (I hope not lol) and the light bar depends on total wattage, but I doubt it's enough to pull the voltage down very far at all on a stock alternator. Radar is a cig lighter plug, so very small load. No other things running, no custom stereo or radio comms? Ejection seats for annoying passengers (I'm snowballing at this point)?

youve been helpful, great info. isnt there an indicator if you put the diode in backwards too? it has to be the correct way? any tip on that? also, can i put the diode in then drive on current battery to place that will replace my battery (for core exchange and best price) or will it damage something? ill order one or a few of them

no custom stereo (bluetooth cig lighter for that as well)
no comms wired, just handhelds.

i will be smart about not shutting off vehicle if i find myself winching a lot, vehicle running during winching and whatnot. i carry a great tackLife jumper (keep this brand in mind for good value tools btw)

i am leaning AGM 24 with that diode as of now. wouldnt mind a few other fitment options aside from the one you referenced. i know agm are heavier but i wouldnt want an outlying heavy one like the diehards are i heard. going to look up the one you posted.

 

[metramm]

I have the 24F X2 in my 4runner. No issues with fitment. dropped straight in.

been in there for 2 years and I live near Chicago so COLD winters.

What sold me was the 5 year non-pro-rated warranty.

I dont have any extra load on it, all stock and it has been great.

Got it for $260 otd From batteries plus.

 

[hinmo24t]

fit the biggest, 31 fits, 27f fits.

i run dual group 31 though with what i have.

some of the group 31 might have the negative post too high and itll hit the hood. some reason the northstar battery i have is like that, took that post off and used a bolt and change the wires with ring terminals, i have alot of those and used a hydraulic crimp. the other brand odyssey battery was a better fit, the negative post is just right.

i respect your reputation and knowledge, but the underlying factor is i dont want to modify anything to fit the new battery. no contact with hood, terminals too high or far apart. just a perfect fit drop in 24 AGM. i can only think of the diehard and duracell referenced in this thread so far. i dont want a 27F because of the 30% (its over 25% i believe) extra weight. dont want a 31 that hits hood or has tight connection.
the odyssey (34 i think, some agms used those #s for their 24f size) might be a good fit but i heard of some pitfalls with those, or at least nothing to confiding in terms of fitment. i think those odyssey or red top even need the oem clamp to be proected with rubber because they need to sit offcenter with a terminal then .5" away from metal battery tiedown...no thanks

optima red tops need a shim and stretch cable (the ground and positive i think are super tight, with red top positioned off center of tray to begin with)

the X2 i posted about might be a good fit but i cant really confirm it as of now. edit, thanks [MENTION=136431]metramm[/MENTION]

thats a very slick battery ^
its a northstar relabelled and fits perfectly...hmm might be my battery. battery plus has them for $230 near me

 

[hinmo24t]

[MENTION=217462]81runner[/MENTION]

those diodes arent available on amazon anymore. im seeing people talking about soldering them as well? directional. before i go to shop to changeout battery or after, etc...

with my truck being a pretty basic model 2004, im guessing i dont have the bigger alternator for the AGM requirements. its a pia to actually view the label on stock alternator. not sure how to test it.


lol...might get a regular battery for $80 MaxxStart walmart and call it a day at this point.

reminds me of 'easy' tasks at work. careful what you wish for. hybrid bumper/winch = way more than that. light, wiring kit for light, battery, diodes, alternators, battery fitment, and im sure a few other surprised along the way
[MENTION=136431]metramm[/MENTION] you have a 2006 i see, maybe you have the bigger alternator (i think it has more to do with trim level rather than a year cutoff)

 

[81runner]

[MENTION=217462]81runner[/MENTION]

those diodes arent available on amazon anymore. im seeing people talking about soldering them as well? directional. before i go to shop to changeout battery or after, etc...

with my truck being a pretty basic model 2004, im guessing i dont have the bigger alternator for the AGM requirements. its a pia to actually view the label on stock alternator. not sure how to test it.


lol...might get a regular battery for $80 MaxxStart walmart and call it a day at this point.

reminds me of 'easy' tasks at work. careful what you wish for. hybrid bumper/winch = way more than that. light, wiring kit for light, battery, diodes, alternators, battery fitment, and im sure a few other surprised along the way

You can just look up a 1N4004 diode, they typically come in a ribbon of 5 or more. Cathode goes towards the firewall, it's the side of the diode with the stripe on it. I DID NOT solder, I folded the leads over and inserted them directly into the fuse buss with a small screwdriver. If there's an issue, the diode will pop like a fuse.
Lead acid batteries can handle up to 14.8v, so this mod won't hurt the vehicle with the existing battery.

The only issue with the alternator is in the AMPS it's capable of producing versus the load you plan to run, and you aren't running anything big so no issue. The voltage regulator comes preset for some reason to 13.2v. hence the diode. In older cars, it was totally normal to have an alternator pumping 14.4-14.8 all day long. AGM likes at least 13.6 to be happy.

 

[hinmo24t]

You can just look up a 1N4004 diode, they typically come in a ribbon of 5 or more. Cathode goes towards the firewall, it's the side of the diode with the stripe on it. I DID NOT solder, I folded the leads over and inserted them directly into the fuse buss with a small screwdriver. If there's an issue, the diode will pop like a fuse.
Lead acid batteries can handle up to 14.8v, so this mod won't hurt the vehicle with the existing battery.

The only issue with the alternator is in the AMPS it's capable of producing versus the load you plan to run, and you aren't running anything big so no issue. The voltage regulator comes preset for some reason to 13.2v. hence the diode. In older cars, it was totally normal to have an alternator pumping 14.4-14.8 all day long. AGM likes at least 13.6 to be happy.

you have been great. i have to take the diode and alternator accounting out of the equation now with the way my mind works. sounds like perhaps you were saying what i will be running wont affect the alternator but the battery could take a hit if i simply drop the agm in my truck. i wont trickle charge on routine, ever. especially if a special one is needed.

it sounds like i am still now rendered to just getting a fresh 24f traditional battery.

i like to hash things out like this, so your input was very appreciated and smart.


sometimes i wonder... cant put 33s on these trucks without with cutting part of the frame or body mounts, cant put a small agm battery in it without a bunch of considerations.

 

[metramm]

[MENTION=262051]hinmo24t[/MENTION],

Not sure if mine has a larger/higher amp alternator or not. I know its an OEM Toyota in there, I've never changed it.

Does anyone know if the Limited trim would come with a higher amp alternator? I wouldn't think it would except if it had the towing package which I do have the v8 hitch but not the transmission cooler from what I can tell.

 

[riceandpho]

Do you have the pair side by side in the oem location or did you have to mount the second elsewhere? I'm looking into getting a pair of 31s under the hood

one in oem location, my second one is in the trunk, its close to my sub amp that is in the storage area.

 

[riceandpho]

yes agm weighs more, but you need to think about the technology, sealed and you can mount anyway you like, i used to run the sears die hard platnums, no mods needed, they were a little bit shorter at the post, thats why the oddy fits better, you can go to batteryplus and get there x2, now northstar and oddy is one company, order online and use coupon code and do store pickup. i also think that the post area is a little different with my northstar. i was the lucky one to buy these battery in a group buy.

yes the 31m im using is high, maybe its due to how the terminals are, stud and post mount they use.

group 31 weight 75 pounds
group 27 weight 68 pounds
group 24 weight is 57 pounds,

i wouldnt care too much about weight, when you should be thinking of having a higher capacity.
i used to run oddy pc1700mjt, these were the size in the european cars, it was a little on the short as in height, but wide like group 31. i think i used a block of wood at the top to use stock battery hold down.

i respect your reputation and knowledge, but the underlying factor is i dont want to modify anything to fit the new battery. no contact with hood, terminals too high or far apart. just a perfect fit drop in 24 AGM. i can only think of the diehard and duracell referenced in this thread so far. i dont want a 27F because of the 30% (its over 25% i believe) extra weight. dont want a 31 that hits hood or has tight connection.
the odyssey (34 i think, some agms used those #s for their 24f size) might be a good fit but i heard of some pitfalls with those, or at least nothing to confiding in terms of fitment. i think those odyssey or red top even need the oem clamp to be proected with rubber because they need to sit offcenter with a terminal then .5" away from metal battery tiedown...no thanks

optima red tops need a shim and stretch cable (the ground and positive i think are super tight, with red top positioned off center of tray to begin with)

the X2 i posted about might be a good fit but i cant really confirm it as of now. edit, thanks [MENTION=136431]metramm[/MENTION]

thats a very slick battery ^
its a northstar relabelled and fits perfectly...hmm might be my battery. battery plus has them for $230 near me

 

[riceandpho]

heres a old pic. you might see a difference from the northstar and die hard / oddy

Large group 31 Battery with low voltage disconnect (any one else done this?)

 

[xtremewlr]

heres a old pic. you might see a difference from the northstar and die hard / oddy

Pic no worky.

 

[riceandpho]

Pic no worky.

forgot to link this older thread.
Large group 31 Battery with low voltage disconnect (any one else done this?)