Jakeepoo3
New member
Just throwing ideas! These types of projects get my mind flowing on point, I enjoy following. It's basically the same setup just way more capacity and takes less space. Next time they'll probably be half the price anyways
Charging and power storage project for my 99 4runner
- Thread starter octanejunkie
- Start date
Just throwing ideas! These types of projects get my mind flowing on point, I enjoy following. It's basically the same setup just way more capacity and takes less space. Next time they'll probably be half the price anyways
Brian.
Member
Renogy has a 200ah for $800 right now... they're not exactly a no-name company.
And if you're a real deal hunter, you can buy a 500ah on Aliexpress for ~$800.
My 100ah was $500 shipped to my door in 2018 so THAT is my litmus. Looks like 100ah is down in the $200 range now. Of course, I'm good with taking chances and get to reap some benefits (and junk some absolute trash... haven't had to pay for any of that yet though).
No, but think I listed out all the systems parts over on IFS, getting things ready to move over to a diff 4runner, I have been running flooded wet cell batteries for the "house side" so I could just beat them up (i.e. not take proper care of said) and replace cheaply but trying to mount the house batteries on the inside of the rear sleeping area now. Haven't looked into the lithium for a while and wouldn't mind the lower weight and not having to worry about the venting like the wet cells. Probably just go AGM as the tech needs a few more yrs it seems but mite take a chance like [MENTION=315156]Brian.[/MENTION], my Victron solar controller Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartSolar MPPT 100V 30 amp 12/24-Volt Solar Charge Controller (Bluetooth) : Everything Else is able to charge lithium already.
I'll have to read up on some of the links u provided
octanejunkie
Elite Member
An email exchange with the folks at Redarc and it seems their 200A isolator will also possibly work
Smart Start SBI 12V 200A
– REDARC
Putting a schematic together to validate all the segments and materials needed
Smart Start SBI 12V 200A
– REDARC
Putting a schematic together to validate all the segments and materials needed
RAD4Runner
Senior Member
I just use a Voltage Sensitive Isolator Relay
That simpler RedArc system should work on your 3rd -gen. DC-to-DC charger is really only needed IF you are running solar OR if you are running other than lead-acid (AGM is still lead-acid) chemistry, OR if you have "smart" alternator like the late-2000's trucks have.
I have a simple setup on my simple truck: Dual-Battery System With Voltage Sensitive Relay - YotaTech Forums
I just use a Voltage Sensitive Isolator Relay similar to that RedArc you show above. (primarily used in audio installs and looks like a knock-off of the RedArc). Connects house battery to alternator when charging voltage has reached certain level. Disconnects when ignition is off and cranking battery voltage drops below certain point (12.7V, IIRC).
The wiring between cranking and house batteries are rated only for 50 amps so if I have to jump-start with the house battery, I would have to do it the old-fashioned way - jumper cables. I just don't feel safe running cranking amps through the isolator.
I'm confident that you know that you should wire your winch directly to your house battery, not through your isolator.
That simpler RedArc system should work on your 3rd -gen. DC-to-DC charger is really only needed IF you are running solar OR if you are running other than lead-acid (AGM is still lead-acid) chemistry, OR if you have "smart" alternator like the late-2000's trucks have.
I have a simple setup on my simple truck: Dual-Battery System With Voltage Sensitive Relay - YotaTech Forums
I just use a Voltage Sensitive Isolator Relay similar to that RedArc you show above. (primarily used in audio installs and looks like a knock-off of the RedArc). Connects house battery to alternator when charging voltage has reached certain level. Disconnects when ignition is off and cranking battery voltage drops below certain point (12.7V, IIRC).
The wiring between cranking and house batteries are rated only for 50 amps so if I have to jump-start with the house battery, I would have to do it the old-fashioned way - jumper cables. I just don't feel safe running cranking amps through the isolator.
I'm confident that you know that you should wire your winch directly to your house battery, not through your isolator.
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RAD4Runner
Senior Member
I believe that Redarc relay has a manual bypass switch option where you energize the relay to connect the cranking and house batteries. Therefore, IF you pick the relay, wiring and fuses to handle cranking amps, you could simply turn the bypass on and jump-start with 2 batteries combined.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Just took a look at your thread on YT, can't wait to read it! Thanks so much
Here's my current wiring plan, the next step is to temp it out on the truck to double check all lengths against the gauges I plan to run
All critical load fuses are ANL blade type
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Yes, they outline this feature, they call it Smart Start Assist, in the manual using a momentary switch and status LED light to indicate when the relay is combining the path between the two batteries
I also like that the SBI has an LED alert system with 2 error flashing sequences to alert to wiring, voltage or system issues
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Made some decisions
REDARC SBI212 is ordered!
I decided not to go with the D (dual charge) version and keep it simple. I can always add solar as a secondary charge for my house battery and not worry about charging the start battery off solar
Decided against LiFePO4
Cost and concerns by several about mixing chemistries, so I sourced a lightweight AGM (18#) and triggered the purchase of a Braille B2618 - now I have 2 AGM batteries and no concerns about charging profiles
My schematic is posted above and based on my mock up of the wiring, the 2/0 run should be under 15 feet long, total length
Additionally, I pulled trigger on Blue Sea AGM fuses and holders
150 AMP between the alternator and start battery
200 AMP between the Isolator and each battery circuit
Once all the Redarc Isolator arrives I will finalize the installation areas/wire paths and battery hold downs in each location
REDARC SBI212 is ordered!
I decided not to go with the D (dual charge) version and keep it simple. I can always add solar as a secondary charge for my house battery and not worry about charging the start battery off solar
Decided against LiFePO4
Cost and concerns by several about mixing chemistries, so I sourced a lightweight AGM (18#) and triggered the purchase of a Braille B2618 - now I have 2 AGM batteries and no concerns about charging profiles
My schematic is posted above and based on my mock up of the wiring, the 2/0 run should be under 15 feet long, total length
Additionally, I pulled trigger on Blue Sea AGM fuses and holders
150 AMP between the alternator and start battery
200 AMP between the Isolator and each battery circuit
Once all the Redarc Isolator arrives I will finalize the installation areas/wire paths and battery hold downs in each location
Brian.
Member
Are you going to monitor State of Charge (SoC) in any way, or just wing it? It can be as simple as a voltmeter (though that works WAY better with a LiFePo4) or as complex as a meter that actually measures power use with a shunt:
M2 DC Multimeter with SoC - Blue Sea Systems
This was one area where going cheap was a complete failure. Mine is never accurate in regards to actual SoC, so I just watch the volts and know to charge if it drops below 13.0 (about 30% SoC for LiFePo4). There are other brands than Bluesea, so if that's the route you take, shop around.
octanejunkie
Elite Member
Redarc has a dual volt gauge, but I was looking at this Ironman gauge
12V Dual Battery Monitor Display
Neither do SoC, specifically
On the better-than-nothing side, there are plenty of these out there
Digital Voltmeter Rocker Style Dual Voltage Monitor
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Brian.
Member
Whew, that's an expensive voltmeter (ironman). I think I'd go cheap if just watching volts, not exactly a complex thing to measure. That was the main reason I went cheap with my SoC display ($20 irrc, like this Amazon.com: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt : Automotive ), I knew it'd work fine as a voltmeter too.
If you've got the money/desire, you could always do 2 of these: (edit, one will do 2 batteries apparently... new product to me, oops one is voltage only)
Amazon.com: Victron Energy SmartShunt 500 amp Battery Monitor (Bluetooth) : Automotive
and monitor on a phone/tablet.
2nd edit: Checked the reviews and was pointed here, this looks even better... almost tempting me to reconfigure my setup (can do 2 batteries, has onboard logging, etc...):
PowerMon - Bluetooth LE Advanced Battery Monitor / DC Power Meter with– Thornwave Labs
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Not looking to put more on my phone, I'd prefer something on the rig - space is a concern and a cheapo voltmeter is better than nothing
I like this Renogy 500A Battery Monitor, High and Low Voltage Programmable Alarm, https://a.co/d/hOQKp33, just wish it were dual battery capable
There are also plenty of cheapo volt/capacity meters out there in the $20-50 price range. For example
Battery Monitor, DROK 10-100V Digital Battery Capacity Tester, Percentage Level Voltage Temperature Switch Meter Gauge 12V 24V 36V 48V LCD Display Marine RV Battery Power Indicator Panel https://a.co/d/i80v1q0
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octanejunkie
Elite Member
Looking at shunt based voltage meter gauges to monitor both batteries (state of charge, current draw, voltage, etc) and am leaning towards this 350A round gauge
It is 2 1/16" and will fit in an A pillar gauge mount, either in an AutoMeter aingle
This one is black and will need to be painted to match the interior
Or a Lotek dual gauge pod already oak colored to match my interior, but requires removing the a pillar grab handle
Read a bunch of threads so far about the A pillar gauge pods, always looking for more real world feedback, like does it obstruct visibility while street driving?
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
It is 2 1/16" and will fit in an A pillar gauge mount, either in an AutoMeter aingle
This one is black and will need to be painted to match the interior
Or a Lotek dual gauge pod already oak colored to match my interior, but requires removing the a pillar grab handle
Read a bunch of threads so far about the A pillar gauge pods, always looking for more real world feedback, like does it obstruct visibility while street driving?
Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
