285 rubbing question

[atalarico]

Hey all!

Picked up some used Duratrac 285s from Craigslist and just got them mounted up. Since they're used they seem to clear everything except my UCA arms and maybe my swaybar?

I do not have spacers installed but have a brand new set of Spidertraxx in the box still and if I'd prefer to run without them if I can. Can this stuff be resolved with a caster adjustment that I read about somewhere on here?

Let me know what you all think!

 

[Bumbo]

Probably going to need those spacers, or new rims...

 

[Runn4est]

Caster is the front to back placement in the wheel well. You're gonna need those spacers. Be diligent about install and you'll have no issues.

Clean the hubs well, place the spacer on. Torque to the recommended values -- do NOT over torque! It is not any better than under torquing. Check them every rotation, or sooner if it worries you.

I've had spacers for going on 20k miles and haven't had a single lug loosen, as confirmed with my torque wrench.

 

[atalarico]

Caster is the front to back placement in the wheel well. You're gonna need those spacers. Be diligent about install and you'll have no issues.

Clean the hubs well, place the spacer on. Torque to the recommended values -- do NOT over torque! It is not any better than under torquing. Check them every rotation, or sooner if it worries you.

I've had spacers for going on 20k miles and haven't had a single lug loosen, as confirmed with my torque wrench.

Ahhh dang! Ok! I thought I got away with murder not having to trim anything and maybe only needing a simple alignment. I knew it wouldn't be that easy. I've watched a few install videos on the spacer installs and feel comfortable with it. I have a cordless impact, torque wrench, and OCD levels of patience.

I mean putting them on is basically just red loctite (included), starting the bolts (curved side inward) by hand, tighten a bit in star pattern to get it centered, and then torque to recommended values in star patter...twice.

Do I have that right? After that I'm sure I'll need an alignment, eh? I went from 265/65's with no spacers. Unless you guys think I won't!

Also, I have to install all four spacers even if the back doesn't rub, right?

 

[Runn4est]

Ahhh dang! Ok! I thought I got away with murder not having to trim anything and maybe only needing a simple alignment. I knew it wouldn't be that easy. I've watched a few install videos on the spacer installs and feel comfortable with it. I have a cordless impact, torque wrench, and OCD levels of patience.

I mean putting them on is basically just red loctite (included), starting the bolts (curved side inward) by hand, tighten a bit in star pattern to get it centered, and then torque to recommended values in star patter...twice.

Do I have that right? After that I'm sure I'll need an alignment, eh? I went from 265/65's with no spacers. Unless you guys think I won't!

Also, I have to install all four spacers even if the back doesn't rub, right?

Your install steps sound good, just also make sure the hub surface is clean of debris and rust and as smooth as you can get it. And personally, I would get an alignment.

You don't need to run the spacers in the back. I think a lot of people only run one set.

 

[Rodtheviking]

You might have to install longer studs on the front for use with the spacers, I did. I the near future they are coming off for a set of 5th gen wheels that will fit with out the scary spacers.

 

[atalarico]

Ideally I’ll be getting wheels in the future. Do the 5th gens have enough backspacing for 285s?!

Also, anyone care to double check my work?

Is that hub surface clean enough or should I keep scrubbing with the steel wool and brake cleaner?

Also, stud length look ok?

 

[atalarico]

Welp, spacers on, fender moved forward, spare deflated. How do my clearances look (keeping in mind I will be wheeling this, albeit not crazy rock crawling or anything).

spare clearing the panhard bar. Good right?

 

[Monkey Wrench]

Looking good! The best way to check is to flex it out in a parking lot of on a mellow trail. That way you’ll know if you need the cab mount chop or anything else.

Keep an eye out for some FJ cruiser or 5th gen trail edition wheels. They stick out 15mm more than your wheels and they are 1/2” wider so they work well with 285s and don’t need spacers.

 

[atalarico]

Looking good! The best way to check is to flex it out in a parking lot of on a mellow trail. That way you’ll know if you need the cab mount chop or anything else.

Keep an eye out for some FJ cruiser or 5th gen trail edition wheels. They stick out 15mm more than your wheels and they are 1/2” wider so they work well with 285s and don’t need spacers.

Thanks man! Going to head out to a mellow trail tomorrow to test it out.

I see the TE wheels come up pretty regularly here on CL for like $4-500 with tires still on them sometimes. I'll put it on the list below replacing these eBay uniball UCAs and getting my DT headers installed.

 

[Monkey Wrench]

CL is where I found mine for $500, a little pricey but they were taken off a brand new TRD OR before the guy took delivery. Overall I’m happy with the wheels, especially with how the valve stem is protected by the rim. 285s are going on after my 255/80 st maxx wear out this fall.

 

[atalarico]

So I'm taking it in for an alignment today at a place that I've been going to for a few years that specializes in off-road and race applications. Should I request anything special? I don't know yet whether or not I have body mount rubbing (that's what she...) because I haven't wheeled it yet, but judging by the picture above should I maybe have my caster set forward a degree or two to be on the safe side?

Thanks!

Also, it drives pretty well right now but I can tell a proper alignment will help. I haven't felt any vibration issues at highway speeds or anything. I need about another 50 miles before I check the torque on the spacers, but yeah...kind of pumped.

 

[Rodtheviking]

So I'm taking it in for an alignment today at a place that I've been going to for a few years that specializes in off-road and race applications. Should I request anything special? I don't know yet whether or not I have body mount rubbing (that's what she...) because I haven't wheeled it yet, but judging by the picture above should I maybe have my caster set forward a degree or two to be on the safe side?

Thanks!

Also, it drives pretty well right now but I can tell a proper alignment will help. I haven't felt any vibration issues at highway speeds or anything. I need about another 50 miles before I check the torque on the spacers, but yeah...kind of pumped.

They might not touch it with spacers on, FYI. My local shop wouldn't, had to remove them for alignment. And thats what my studs looked like too, I bought some Matrix rear studs off RockAuto and got some ET lugs from All Pro Off Road and some red loctite.

https://www.allprooffroad.com/shop/extended-thread-lug-nuts/

 

[Billynath1988]

you should be fine on the street. if you leave the pavement thats going to rub.

 

[atalarico]

you should be fine on the street. if you leave the pavement thats going to rub.

This is primarily a trail rig, so that will be a problem. Should I have them bump the caster forward then? If so, how much is recommended?

 

[ZOMBRNR]

You're going to need a body mount chop ASAP if you don't want to destroy those nice Duratrac's. Ask me how I know, lol.

 

[atalarico]

You're going to need a body mount chop ASAP if you don't want to destroy those nice Duratrac's. Ask me how I know, lol.

Damn. I guess I'll have to take up my friend's offer to help me with it then. He has some decent welding and fab experience so it will be neat to learn, I just didn't want to have to do it and was naively hoping slamming the caster forward would help me avoid it.

I mean...it hasn't rubbed yet going over steep bumps or driveway curbs! I'm hopeless...

 

[ZOMBRNR]

Damn. I guess I'll have to take up my friend's offer to help me with it then. He has some decent welding and fab experience so it will be neat to learn, I just didn't want to have to do it and was naively hoping slamming the caster forward would help me avoid it.

I mean...it hasn't rubbed yet going over steep bumps or driveway curbs! I'm hopeless...

When you're under full compression, and steering wheel locked, you're going to rub it bad. I'm running 275/65/18's and rubbed for 4 years before I finally did it, and regret not doing it right away.

 

[Billynath1988]

This is primarily a trail rig, so that will be a problem. Should I have them bump the caster forward then? If so, how much is recommended?

based on your pictures.. your going to need do some trimming. those wheel spacers should get you cleared of your uca's no problem.. but your going to rub either on the body mount or inner fender... or both.. cut trim and chop.. Or do less cutting and get a small body lift installed. I have 285/75's and wheel it.. check my thread for some pics of how I trimmed up the wheel wells if you want ideas.

 

[atalarico]

based on your pictures.. your going to need do some trimming. those wheel spacers should get you cleared of your uca's no problem.. but your going to rub either on the body mount or inner fender... or both.. cut trim and chop.. Or do less cutting and get a small body lift installed. I have 285/75's and wheel it.. check my thread for some pics of how I trimmed up the wheel wells if you want ideas.

Yeah, they clear the UCA arms just fine now (need to repaint the bare spots now). I pushed the fender liners as far forward as I could. Haven't trimmed the bumper corner, but I haven't hit it yet either.

I'm going to put some chalk on these parts and see how/where rubbing is happening. Kind of hard to know what/how much to cut when you don't know how much is rubbing. I'm a fan of the less is more approach.