285 rubbing question

Yeah, they clear the UCA arms just fine now (need to repaint the bare spots now). I pushed the fender liners as far forward as I could. Haven't trimmed the bumper corner, but I haven't hit it yet either.

I'm going to put some chalk on these parts and see how/where rubbing is happening. Kind of hard to know what/how much to cut when you don't know how much is rubbing. I'm a fan of the less is more approach.


when you think you trimmed enough, trim more
 
Welp, it didn't matter anyway. Alignment place wouldn't do it because my LCA bushing is shot on the passenger side. Dammit.
 
The surface of your hubs where there is a shape that looks like a brake pad, throw a thin layer of anti seize on there.

You’re welcome in advance [emoji6]


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Probably is. order ONLY genuine OEM LCA's. unless you want to revisit this again soon.

Yeah, I had to deal with this in my 3rd gen and after I learned what a huuuuuge PITA these can be, I had a trusted Yota shop replace the bushings for $400 for the bad side and it was fine after (OEM bushings). The alignment shop *really* didn't want to do it so they gave me a super high quote of $750. I called the shop I trust and they quoted about $450 for 4th gen.

So, I'll probably go that route again unfortunately.
 
I had the rubbing issue with 285's for a year or two, it got worse with 315's. The solution was to do a body mount chop, completely remove the front bumper AND the rear bumper and cut the fender near the door, then get a 1.5" body lift and ALSO get 0 offset wheels. Now I don't rub when offroad.
 
OEM or Mevotech would be my two choices, budget depending of course.

I only do OEM with steering stuff. I cheaped out on ITREs, OTRs, and LBJs with my 3rd Gen and had to do them all again within 30k or something like that. I replaced them with all OEM about 7k miles before I totaled it. It still hurts to think about.
 
I only do OEM with steering stuff. I cheaped out on ITREs, OTRs, and LBJs with my 3rd Gen and had to do them all again within 30k or something like that. I replaced them with all OEM about 7k miles before I totaled it. It still hurts to think about.

ouch, yeah that sounds painful. genuine OEM is good for almost everything except suspension and tires.
 

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