GBagwell
New member
Learned a ton here so giving back a bit. Wanted to share just a couple tips from the timing belt replacement I just completed. There are already full write ups. Which covers the majority of the process And I used a couple YouTube videos that combined were great resources.
One was “The Car Care Nut” , a Toyota Tech. Clear and concise and has the best tip related to the camshaft “T’s”
How Well Made are Toyota Timing Belts? Let's Check an OVERDUE One! | DIY V8 Timing Belt - YouTube
Then “Timmy the Toolman” has a 2 part series, good and I appreciated the torque specs.
Toyota/Lexus 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (Part 1) - YouTube
But even Timmy had some issues with the cam timing with the belt, chasing resources and a best process.
-
The best tips, supported by photos;
A. Pull the spark plugs. If you’re doing a belt, likely a good time to replace the plugs and it will make it easy to turn the crank by hand.
B. Get the Crank pulley holder tool off of Amazon. The one you attach a 1/2 inch breaker bar to. It will make it so much easier to torque on the crank bolt. You will be saving $1K plus in labor charges you can swing the few dolors to get this specialty tool.
C. Have a harmonic balancer puller on hand, likely needed
BEST Tips.
1. Use the “T” Mark’s to align your cams to, they won’t jump from this position.
Granted the “dot” on the crank will have rotated around past the little timing alignment “nub” but that is fine.
This is the position you want to set the cams prior to removing the old belt
2. Now that you have the cams in position at the T and the belt off. When you go to install the belt you will likely need to counter rotate the crank one tooth to get the belt installed with the arrow at the dot.
3. Use large paper clips/clamps to hold the belt in position on the cams with the arrows aligned with the notches. This keeps the belt where you want it while you work on getting the belt on the rest of the pulleys, particularly correctly on the crank.
4. Use a mirror to help ensure that you are getting the belt where you want it on the crank gear.
5. Now that the belt is on, before activating the tension, turn the crank clockwise just a bit (1 tooth’s worth) to take up the slack you created to get it installed. I would double check that all belt arrows now line up with the dot and the notches.
6. Again before the tension, go ahead and rotate the crank clockwise a full 360 of the cams, this time come to a stop at the vertical lines TDC. At this time the crank should align with the “Nub”. If it doesn't the cams are not properly timed.
Don’t worry at this time about the arrows on the belt, they won’t come up again for awhile.
If all checks, out, go ahead and pull the pin, to put on the tension. Now - Go ahead and rotate 360 again, to Top Dead Center on the cams, and verify the crank is in time by aligning to the nub, hole under tension.
If both cams are in the proper position and the crank is too, with the tension on, then you should be golden.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks all,
One was “The Car Care Nut” , a Toyota Tech. Clear and concise and has the best tip related to the camshaft “T’s”
How Well Made are Toyota Timing Belts? Let's Check an OVERDUE One! | DIY V8 Timing Belt - YouTube
Then “Timmy the Toolman” has a 2 part series, good and I appreciated the torque specs.
Toyota/Lexus 2UZ-FE 4.7 Liter V8 Timing Belt Replacement (Part 1) - YouTube
But even Timmy had some issues with the cam timing with the belt, chasing resources and a best process.
-
The best tips, supported by photos;
A. Pull the spark plugs. If you’re doing a belt, likely a good time to replace the plugs and it will make it easy to turn the crank by hand.
B. Get the Crank pulley holder tool off of Amazon. The one you attach a 1/2 inch breaker bar to. It will make it so much easier to torque on the crank bolt. You will be saving $1K plus in labor charges you can swing the few dolors to get this specialty tool.
C. Have a harmonic balancer puller on hand, likely needed
BEST Tips.
1. Use the “T” Mark’s to align your cams to, they won’t jump from this position.
Granted the “dot” on the crank will have rotated around past the little timing alignment “nub” but that is fine.
This is the position you want to set the cams prior to removing the old belt
2. Now that you have the cams in position at the T and the belt off. When you go to install the belt you will likely need to counter rotate the crank one tooth to get the belt installed with the arrow at the dot.
3. Use large paper clips/clamps to hold the belt in position on the cams with the arrows aligned with the notches. This keeps the belt where you want it while you work on getting the belt on the rest of the pulleys, particularly correctly on the crank.
4. Use a mirror to help ensure that you are getting the belt where you want it on the crank gear.
5. Now that the belt is on, before activating the tension, turn the crank clockwise just a bit (1 tooth’s worth) to take up the slack you created to get it installed. I would double check that all belt arrows now line up with the dot and the notches.
6. Again before the tension, go ahead and rotate the crank clockwise a full 360 of the cams, this time come to a stop at the vertical lines TDC. At this time the crank should align with the “Nub”. If it doesn't the cams are not properly timed.
Don’t worry at this time about the arrows on the belt, they won’t come up again for awhile.
If all checks, out, go ahead and pull the pin, to put on the tension. Now - Go ahead and rotate 360 again, to Top Dead Center on the cams, and verify the crank is in time by aligning to the nub, hole under tension.
If both cams are in the proper position and the crank is too, with the tension on, then you should be golden.
Hope this helps someone.
Thanks all,
