3.4L Ticking/tapping Noise

[plcfcng]

Go to page 238 of the owners manual you find this about motor oil for the 5vz-fe. 10w-30 can be used but extreme cold weather may make starting difficult. If you want to narrow down the location of the noise use a stethoscope or a solid metal like bar, pipe or pry bar put your ear against it and move it around to find out where the noise is coming from. As far as leaving the oil in if it were me I would not have a problem driving it with the heavier oil. It can buy you some time to decide what to do, if the oil makes it quieter than good if it does not the gap maybe to large if it's a valve lash issue to help quite down. If it does quite you still have a lash issue. The only way to know for sure if the gap is excessive is to measure the gap.
:blabla:






SAE 5W- 30 is the best choice for your
vehicle, for good fuel economy and
good starting in cold weather.
If you use SAE 10W- 30 engine oil in
extremely low temperatures, the engine
may become difficult to start, so SAE
5W- 30 engine oil is recommended.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I will check spark plugs once I get a non-rainy day where I'm home during daylight. After more driving and pondering, I'm thinking that's not it though. Spark plugs loose sound more tractor like and get significantly louder with higher load. This one does not sound quite like that. I'm thinking that's not it but I'll check. I also grabbed a stethoscope to check around. Valve ticking may still be it but I'm just surprised with how it came on. It had always ticked a little bit but got significantly louder very quickly. I wouldn't have expected tightening valves to behave like that but I could be wrong. I'm also not the kind of guy to fill it with heavier weight oil or marvel mystery to make the noise go away. I want to be able to drive the truck without worrying about it breaking. I won't rule out injectors but I really don't know what they'd sound like. If it were injectors or something in the fuel system, need I worry about a cylinder running lean? Wouldn't a CEL throw for that?

I'm thinking cracked manifold may be more likely than I had expected, especially with what Bad Luck described above. I guess the good news there is that it's not mission critical but will get really annoying over time. The PO did tip me off about an exhaust leak that had been patched or something after I had already signed the paperwork for this thing. Maybe it's finally showing after my 4 year tenure. How bad of a job is it to replace a manifold on these things? I've heard something about the cross-pipe being really difficult because it routes over the trans and needs to drop the trans to get out. Is either of the manifolds in the same category as that?

I called my mechanic today but didn't answer. He may be off still for New Years. I've taken my s2000 in there a few times and the guy knows his stuff, is honest, and does good work. Problem is he isn't always quick to turn things around as most his business is second cars. With this as my daily, it poses a bit of a challenge. I just don't want to take it to a run-of-the-mill shop to do a diagnosis like this. They seem more apt to replacing stuff til the problem goes away as opposed to actually diagnosing the problem. Also, I don't trust a chain store or gas station repair place to change a flex plate/exhaust manifold/valve adjust.

That's good to note about the exhaust leak. It may very well be it. In regards to the injector/FPR tick, it's not a malfuctioning injector or FPR that would cause the noise, just age. It's an annoyance if you do have a loud injector but it works just fine and would not need to be replaced.

It seems though you and I are alike and that when you get one of these little issues it's not going to be ignored. Every time I get a new noise in my engine or a new rattle I see if I can fix it. More often than not it can be without too much work. Although, replacing an exhaust manifold while still in the engine bay isn't child's play. Need the right sockets & extensions or that gets very frustrating! Takes all of 5 minutes if the engine is out though.

 

[kolelt]

5vzfe is kinda known for a “Toyota Tap noise”. If your oil and coolant are clean. No smoke or misfire. I wouldn’t worry. Again, if you google “Toyota tap noise.” Lots is topics on it.

 

[plcfcng]

When looking for a exhaust leak using a piece of heater hose or any other hose works great.:drum:

 

[Jubsz]

Grabbed a stethoscope and did some prodding. Significantly more noise, including ticking from the passenger side VC. Placing the stethoscope on the fuel rail also made more noise and some of the tick was present. I'm having a hard time isolating it, and having never listened to a fuel rail before, I can't tell if that's it. From the VC and head casting itself, I can hear significantly more ticking from the passenger side than driver side. I am feeling like valvetrain is my answer but am not completely sure.

The ground was wet so I didn't get under and listen for my flex plate. I did talk to my mechanic and am planning to take it in on Monday. I'm trying to track down a valve cover to use, since I should have that replaced while the valve covers are off. I realized the 99+ valve covers are apparently different than the older ones. Is it just the fin design or are the internals and/or some of the holes/mounting points on the outside different? Does it makes sense that valve ticking would get louder as the engine warms up?

 

[Sarki]

I'm trying to track down a valve cover to use, since I should have that replaced while the valve covers are off. I realized the 99+ valve covers are apparently different than the older ones. Is it just the fin design or are the internals and/or some of the holes/mounting points on the outside different? Does it makes sense that valve ticking would get louder as the engine warms up?

I would go with OEM Toyota valve cover gaskets. No need to replace the valve cover itself unless cracked, just the gasket once you remove the valve cover to adjust the lifters/shims.
As the engine warms up and reaches normal operating temperature the oil becomes a bit thinner than when you first start the engine and the oil is cold. Not unusual for the valve train and specifically the lifters to get a bit noisier once the oil is hot.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I would still try changing the oil to a high quality synthetic (better wear properties & helps reduce valve train noise) or switching to 10W-30. That way you'll know for sure if it's a noise valve/shim or fuel related.

I forgot to mention, try running an injector cleaner like Royal Purple's Max Atomizer through the gas tank. It's helped my injectors quiet down in the past and smooth the idle out. Can do that instead of an oil change to isolate if it's fuel related or not. Costs $8.

 

[VernySanders]

It seems like you've moved past the notion of it being a manifold like I mentioned on page one however one general thing I would bring up Is soapy water and some manifold puddy. Jb weld makes a patch kit that works well, plenty of products out there for that issue. Soapy water on a cold manifold obviously not a hot one that's up to temp will blow bubbles where the air escapes

 

[Jubsz]

Mechanic diagnosed it as fuel injector tick. Truck will be getting some much needed love such as timing belt, water pump, a new valve cover (old one cracked), VC gaskets, new plugs.

S2000 has been brought out of hibernation for the week, at least. Wearing snow tires, snow possible in Tuesday's forecast. I'm hoping the snow and salt trucks stay away for at least another week.

 

[brillo_76]

Mechanic diagnosed it as fuel injector tick. Truck will be getting some much needed love such as timing belt, water pump, a new valve cover (old one cracked), VC gaskets, new plugs.



S2000 has been brought out of hibernation for the week, at least. Wearing snow tires, snow possible in Tuesday's forecast. I'm hoping the snow and salt trucks stay away for at least another week.

Oh the valve cover itself is cracked. That would make it alot louder. I thought it was a valve tapping more then injector.

Bummer having to pull the ather ride out of hibernation.

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[plcfcng]

I'm with Brillo if it is a loud tick I think it's more likelly a valve lash issue. I won't be surprised to hear you mechanic say something like, "I fixed the injector tick but there's still another noise" or " the injector noise was covering the other noise". I really hope your mechanic is right.:dancin:

 

[Jubsz]

I'm with Brillo if it is a loud tick I think it's more likelly a valve lash issue. I won't be surprised to hear you mechanic say something like, "I fixed the injector tick but there's still another noise" or " the injector noise was covering the other noise". I really hope your mechanic is right.:dancin:

I do too but he sounded pretty confident. I don't trust too many mechanics but this guy has been good to me and knows his stuff. He's highly referred in the NSX and S2000 crowds and has NSX engines spread all over his shop. Also a fun guy to talk to about SCCA racing and mountain biking.

I understand nothing is certain until it is but it's in good hands. I will also ask that he check the valve lash while the covers are off.

 

[brillo_76]

I do too but he sounded pretty confident. I don't trust too many mechanics but this guy has been good to me and knows his stuff. He's highly referred in the NSX and S2000 crowds and has NSX engines spread all over his shop. Also a fun guy to talk to about SCCA racing and mountain biking.



I understand nothing is certain until it is but it's in good hands. I will also ask that he check the valve lash while the covers are off.

I would definitely check that valve lash as that to me sounds like a valve. As injectors mostly dont have that whap sound they just tick. Being that valve cover cracked open is probably when your sound got louder. But I could be wrong. We shall see keep us posted.

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[Jubsz]

Y'all scaring me a bit. Mainly because the cylinder bank making the noise is the passenger side. Driver side VC is cracked. I don't believe the pass is but I haven't had the intake off to see the whole thing. Mechanic seemed pretty busy today so I hope he warmed it up enough. Noise is minimal to none when engine is cool. We'll see what happens I guess.

 

[Sarki]

Joining Brillo & plcfncg and sticking with valve lash as the culprit.
Increased noise once the oil is hot certainly points in that direction.
Either way hopefully you’re on your way to a quiet and well running 4TR since I hate the thought of the road salt on the belly of that S2000!
Best of luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[plcfcng]

I have done 3 head gasket jobs while I don't know the service records on them before I got them they all needed a valve adjustment. Because of your mileage you will most likely be out of spec. My feelings are to budget for the valve adjustment this may add a couple of extra hours on the bill and the cost of shims. Glad you have someone that is familiar with this type of adjustment it is a bit involved. Let us know how it turns out. :jump::jump:

 

[gamefreakgc]

I think it's been said before, but neither the injector tick or a valve lash being too tight is a "must fix" sort of thing. It will drive just fine with no risk of damage if you don't repair.

Now the cracked valve cover is an issue, in that it's causing a vacuum leak. Will mess up your gas mileage & cause a rough idle.

 

[brillo_76]

Now the cracked valve cover is an issue, in that it's causing a vacuum leak. Will mess up your gas mileage & cause a rough idle.

I agree with Jared on this one. Valve cover critical. The fuel injectors and valve flash are secondary issues.

Why did a valve cover crack is I am wondering at this point.



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[Sarki]

If replacing the valve cover and gaskets it would most definitely be a good opportunity to check the valve lash, especially given the fact OP mentioned the noise has grown noticeably louder over past several weeks.
Unless of course no funds for the additional process.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I agree with Jared on this one. Valve cover critical. The fuel injectors and valve flash are secondary issues.

Why did a valve cover crack is I am wondering at this point.



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Only one thing can crack a valve cover, that's user error in overtightening the bolts. Some people misread the FSM which says somewhere around 40 in/lbs and torque it to 40 ft/lbs. Boom, cracked valve cover. Normally the bolt will strip first though (done that one...).

Either that or the cylinder head blew up and send the camshaft into the cover lol!