3.4L white smoke on start up. Intake manifold gasket?

subitoy

New member
My 3.4L start having some white smoke at cold start up. Recently my engine start to really shake and running rough at start up to the point that it can't idle by itself and needs higher rpm to run for the first 30 seconds. I have minimal coolant loss and white smoke lingers for a while so it's not just a steam. I did block test several times and there is no exhaust coming to cooling system. Seems like the leak at the intake. Not common for 3.4L and I could not find any threads on replacing intake manifold gaskets. Was wondering if anyone has any idea on what other tests to do and how to proceed.
Thank you for your help!
 
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Head gasket(s)/cracked head(s). White smoke out the tailpipe means you're burning up coolant so it's leaking into the combustion chamber. You'll be doing the intake manifold gasket in the process, but your symptoms are almost surely HG or bad head.
 
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Thank you for reply. I'm confused.
I thought that block test will rule out head gasket or cracked head. If leak is from combustion chamber then high pressure will push gases into coolant and I would have exhaust gases in my coolant. I did block test several times and it did not detect any exhaust gases in my cooling system.
Head Gasket or Combustion Leak Test Procedure (Gasoline Engines Only)

I have purchased block test kit to see if I have issues in my HG, block, or head. Am I missing something?

Since I have negative block test I thought that coolant getting before combustion chamber which would be intake. Is that possible?
 
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Thank you for reply. I'm confused.
I thought that block test will rule out head gasket or cracked head. If leak is from combustion chamber then high pressure will push gases into coolant and I would have exhaust gases in my coolant. I did block test several times and it did not detect any exhaust gases in my cooling system.
Head Gasket or Combustion Leak Test Procedure (Gasoline Engines Only)

I have purchased block test kit to see if I have issues in my HG, block, or head. Am I missing something?

Since I have negative block test I thought that coolant getting before combustion chamber which would be intake. Is that possible?

The block test can determine a HG/cracked head if there is presence of exhaust gases in the cooling system, but unfortunately just because you didn't find any exhaust gases doesn't mean that you can rule it out. I had 2 cracked heads and my truck passed a compression test, a block test, a leak down test, and a cooling system pressure test. The reason why was because the leak/crack would seal up after a few seconds after start up and then it was undetectable. It wasn't until several months later when it was missing all the time that it started failing the tests.

A negative block test doesn't confirm that coolant is getting lost before the combustion chamber. The white smoke out your tail pipe on start up on the other hand, does tell you that coolant is being burned up in the combustion chamber. It's nasty, but gulp a mouthful of exhaust and if it tastes sweet at all or smells like coolant, you'll know.

Sorry for the downer news, but that's why I really doubt it's just an intake manifold leak. Chances are if it was, you'd see coolant leaking when it's idling or a puddle under the truck after being parked overnight. Intake manifold gaskets don't usually seal up after 30 seconds, but my cracked heads did that for over a year so I know that's possible. I'd start mine up, it would miss and stumble for 10-30 seconds, I'd rev it up, it would heat up, seal up, and it would smooth out and drive fine until the next time I started it up. I was missing about 1/2 of my coolant reservoir tank every 1-2 weeks. After a while it just never smoothed out anymore, it just continued to miss and at that point I had the engine rebuilt.

Although it's probably not going to help IMO, you can see if it's an intake manifold leak by getting a small bottle of propane and opening it up a little so it's leaking out. Go around the intake and all the vacuum lines with the bottle (while the engine is running) and if it sucks in the propane, the idle will change and you know you got a leak.

Another thing you can do is pull the spark plugs (inspect them in the process) and then leave them out overnight. In the morning, look down the holes with a flashlight and see if there is coolant in any of the cylinders. Then you know it's HG/cracked head(s). If that doesn't help you determine anything, I'd do a compression test and a leak-down if necessary after that. But as a I said earlier, even those test don't always determine anything as mine had 2 cracked heads and no tests were conclusive.
 
Thank you so much for clearing things up. I was trying hard to rule out HG because I can do pretty much everything by myself before that point. I just don't see myself taking heads out. On the other side if I could arrange for another vehicle to get to and from work I might go for it.
 
Whether you pull the heads or you have a shop do it, have them resurfaced and inspected for cracks. I would also recommend having the block inspected and resurfaced if necessary. Even if it's just a bad HG, resurfacing is mandatory IMO. A lot of people skimp and just throw new HGs and they leak again after another year or 2.

After I cracked my heads I started to notice that this isn't that uncommon on the 3.4 after ~200K and there are a few others on here that have had their heads crack too.. How many miles are on yours?
 
Thank you so much for clearing things up. I was trying hard to rule out HG because I can do pretty much everything by myself before that point. I just don't see myself taking heads out. On the other side if I could arrange for another vehicle to get to and from work I might go for it.

I just did mine. Its not a bad job if your a decent wrench. I should have done a how to. I still might I have a fair bit of pics.. Let me know if you have ant specific questions.
 
I have about 150K. As I war reading all the posts and complications that DIY can bring I'm getting cold feet. By the time I spend for OEM gasket kit, water pump, timing belt, might as well radiator, I'll be down close to $700-$800 and if I do something wrong then I'll have to pay on top of that for someone to redo it.
Locally I found rebuilt engine for $2000.
Rebuilt 96-00 Toyota 4Runner V6 5VZE 3.4L Engine [tacoma5vze] - $2,000.00 : Kar King Auto, Engines and Transmissions Specialist
Just not sure which way to go...
 
I have about 150K. As I war reading all the posts and complications that DIY can bring I'm getting cold feet. By the time I spend for OEM gasket kit, water pump, timing belt, might as well radiator, I'll be down close to $700-$800 and if I do something wrong then I'll have to pay on top of that for someone to redo it.
Locally I found rebuilt engine for $2000.
Rebuilt 96-00 Toyota 4Runner V6 5VZE 3.4L Engine [tacoma5vze] - $2,000.00 : Kar King Auto, Engines and Transmissions Specialist
Just not sure which way to go...

That's the question..
1) Do the HGs only and hope the heads aren't cracked and the bottom is still in good shape..
2) Completely rebuild yours..
3) Buy a new/rebuilt motor..
4) Buy a low mileage used motor.

A rebuilt motor for $2K isn't a bad price at all. If you plan to have someone install it, expect to pay ~$800-1000 at a shop.

I personally would rebuild the whole thing as opposed to just doing the HGs and hoping the heads and the rest of the engine are in good shape. That's the safer route to go IMO. The cost of rebuilding yours is going to be in the same price range as the rebuilt motor you linked to so that doesn't really matter too much. I would go with whatever/whoever has the best warranty. I got a 1 year warranty with my rebuild.

You can find used <100K motors for ~$1000-1400 (plus the cost to install). That is the cheapest way to go. Used is always a chance because you don't know what the history of that engine is, but if it comes with a good warranty that might be the best option for you.

Before you do anything though, confirm that it is a HG or cracked head - even if that means you have to bring it to a mechanic. 150K is on the low side for these kinds of issues on a 3.4. I can offer advice from my armchair, but without seeing it in person, I can't tell you 100% that that's what it is. But I'm pretty sure.
 
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I bet you have a puddle in #3 cyl. Ask me how I know. Mine ran well after the 30sec. smoke show. My block test passed initially but then a week later it failed. My heads checked out well but after putting the engine back together the problem still existed. Ended up the deck (block) had a large pitted area where the HG sits. I just finished tossing in a JY motor. Now I have 2 fresh heads for the future. Pull the heads yourself if you can arrange a ride to work. Its a great learning experience. It looks scary at first but once you have the lines and accessory stuff out of the way its a breeze.
 
Thats not bad at all for a rebuilt motor. If you can swing it that might be the way to go. I would make sure that builder has a good reputation.
 
I pulled all spark plugs and took them to local mechanic for an opinion. He said that most likely cylinder #6 since it looks the cleanest. It would be exciting if I'll do it myself. I'll have to call local dealership to find out what machine shop they use and then get all the parts before I start.
Should I go with this kit?
04112-62071 - OEM Toyota GASKET KIT, ENGINE V
Or this one?
Amazon.com: Ishino Cylinder Head Gasket Set: Automotive

Then I might replace timing belt with all accessories:
Timing Belt Kit Toyota 4 Runner 3.4L V6 5VZFE 96-02 | eBay


Or this one...
Amazon.com: Timing Belt Kit Toyota 4 Runner 1996 to 2002 3.4L 5VZFE V6: Automotive

Then radiator:
1996 - 2002 Toyota 4Runner KOYO Radiator A1998 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001

By the time I'm done I'll be close to $1000 just in parts. But at least I know they are quality and as long as I will not mess up I'll be really happy. The other option is for a local mechanic to do the job and me buying all the parts.
 
I'd go with the Toyota gasket kit. Did a little searching before I bought mine. Seems like the there were issues on certain HGs. If you can do it yourself then you can send the heads out to be checked and rebuilt. It cost me 400 (both heads) to do everything that includes r&r the valve stem seals and set the valve lash.
 
:)

Not trying to jump on your thread but you might find this helpful. I went through a cracked head ordeal recently. It was not cheap to fix but I am happy I did and kept the truck.


Here is the thread on my head issues from beginning to end:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/88502-head-gasket-fail-199-840-now-what.html


ALSO, I see you are in the inland Empire. Where about exactly? Perhaps one of us can recommend an honest Toyota shop. I am in San Diego.


:surfer:
 
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Thank you for all replies and link to that thread. I was dreading that it might me more then just HG and I had some spare time today and did compression test. The engine was cool, did not want to burn myself.

Here are the results:
DSC02325.jpg~original


DSC02327.jpg~original


92873946.gif~original


Cylinder 3 and 4 are not doing so good. If that would of been due to coolant leak it should of been clean, but those spark plugs look dirty.
Those spark plugs have only few hundred miles on them. I've been using synthetic oil with 5-6k between changes, engine does not burn oil, gives me 21mpg on freeway, 17mpg in a city.

What do you think the problem is?

P.S. I'm in San Bernardino, CA in case anyone knows good shop in the area.
 
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To update, both of my heads are off and both have cracks and burned valves. What should I do now? Re-builder in my area suggested to go with theses ones ($750 a pair) Japan Engines

I guess other option is used engine. Any suggestions? Main block will need to have new pistons also.
 
So if the bottom end needs to be reringed,then I would look for a used engine.

If not, and nothing is warped, then buy the heads and reassemble.
 
I have two new heads by JE.

What shop / city?

My cracked head woes are detailed in a link within my build thread. I cant paste it easily from my phone.

I decided to go with the 2 JE heads based on a recommendation from a Toyota mechanic in San Diego.

I fully believed my engine's bottom end was solid since it ran perfect until the crack caused it start missing in CYL#3.

Price of replacing both heads with JE, Toyota gaskets, misc parts and labor: $2700 + tax.

If you have doubt about the botten end then perhaps an engine swap would be better. The only downside is the truck could be OOC for months.
 

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