3.slow performance

gigerunner

New member
I hear this term far too much but definitely agree with it. I think I am doing ok with right around 18 mpg and 230,000 on my t4r. I'm not crystal clear on the maintenance history, but I like to keep my vehicle running like a top. I have only had my truck since July but as I have been keeping it up it seems to be getting better and better then when I got it. I plan on freshening everything up and figured might as well upgrade where I can. I have always liked NGK plugs but like to try new stuff out, I have read lots of mixed reviews on the E3 plugs. What do you guys think of those? I will start the ignition system first.
 
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I personally like to stick to NGK plugs, some may have different opinions though. And while i dont have a 3.0 right now, im pretty confident that 18 mpgs is AWESOME for that motor
BTW do you know when the head gaskets were done, as well as timing belt. Those would be my first concerns besides "normal" maintenance like front,rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid etc
 
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I had receipts from the timing belt, water pump and head gaskets. I don't have it in front of me but I think it was near the 200k mark
 
"3.0" and "performance" isn't really gonna get you anywhere. 150hp motor when it was new. You might be able to get 10 more out of it with significant financial commitment.

Assuming it's not 2WD, 18mpg sounds great for that motor. My stock 22re averaged that with 50/50 city/highway driving. If it were me i'd just stick with NGK plugs.

The most common 3.0 performance modification is taking the motor out, getting on classifieds, buying a 5VZ-FE 3.4L, and swapping it in.
 
I like to stick with factory parts when I can.

As far as performance goes, headers will free up a bit of power and move the exhaust away from the head thus preventing the headgasket from going again.
 
i have put 14k miles on my 92 3.0 gas since putting in a jdm engine and have been getting 17 to 19 mpg fairly well loaded down this fall using it for hunting trips. even slept in it one weekend. it is a 5 speed but power hasn't been a problem it is a pain having to roll down the back window down to open the back.
 
I will go with NGK pugs and wires why mess with success. I only use chevron 89 if that makes a difference. Years ago when I had a baja bug I noticed chevron gas took the longest to turn my in line fuel filter black.

Headers would be nice but that will surely have to wait till after the holiday's.
 
I was getting 20mpg when commuting on a highway, but going from 6700' up to 8900' and then down to 4500' one way. But I normally topped out at 60 (and likely averaged 50) going up the hill. Later it dropped to 19mpg, likely when I started driving up the hill and around the corners a bit more aggressively with the 5 speed.

Stock type Fram air filters are cheap, so make sure yours is clean. Plugs are cheap, and it's sometimes good to put a fresh cap and rotor on, though I'm not sure if I have in the past 60k. I put the fancy platinum plugs in mine since they were on sale when buying them, but copper should do just fine.

I don't know if my aftermarket high-flow cat and muffler helped. I only replaced them as needed (stock cat was stolen, and muffler rusted out).

For both acceleration and mpg, get rid of any extra weight you're lugging around for no reason (do you really need the 50lbs high lift jack when on a freeway commuting). It could help a bit to use 0W-30 synthetic. If you're more worried about mpg than acceleration, accelerate slower and reduce that top speed a little.

Of course road tires would help too, but where's the fun in that. But you can keep them inflated or even over inflate just a bit in dry road conditions.

Aside from going up a steep hill at altitude, especially when loaded down (actually did ok with a 1100 lbs of rock going up and over 8900'), my 4runner does pretty well. But when switching out from a V6 acura to a v6 4runner many years ago, I knew I wasn't going to win any 0-60 contests.
 
I usually drive very conservatively on the frwy 60 usually. I do take off slow, I do drive an auto and let up on the gas around town allowing for it to upshift and keep the rpm's down. I havent really jumped on the pipe yet and opened it up. maybe after i get plugs, wires, cap, rotor(upon inspection of course). The only extra I regularly haul is my XC race moutain bike which is a whooping 20lbs. I just replaced my air filter as mine looked like it had driven through a coal mine. I put on a washable filter not oiled unless im heading out for a dusty weekend, I don't mine cleaning it when I change the oil.
 
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Plugs and wires done. I have many leaks on my intake.
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I am considering removing the silencers but keeping the stock air box. Any cons to a cold air intake on these motors. I remember long ago hearing that on honda's with these same silencers when removed fell on there face in the mid range. This would be a problem as that is where I drive my truck at 90% of the time 2500 rpm on the freeway. I have had good results with cold air on american trucks but they did not have the silencers.
 
I am considering removing the silencers but keeping the stock air box. Any cons to a cold air intake on these motors. I remember long ago hearing that on honda's with these same silencers when removed fell on there face in the mid range. This would be a problem as that is where I drive my truck at 90% of the time 2500 rpm on the freeway. I have had good results with cold air on american trucks but they did not have the silencers.

i was ondering the same thing. i have purchased a k&n, we'll see how it goes
 

You beat me to it, these exact links came to mind.
Cold airs are a sort of scam in my opinion ( and im def not alone on this one). So OP, dont buy the k&n , get oem( or close to it). K&n invested a good amount of time and money to develop the product...but toyota invested MUCH more to come up with their design
 

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