30,000 Mile Service - Anti Corrosive Pads?

[blaniac22]

I'm sitting at about 28K miles on my 2007 4Runner SR5 V6 (2WD). I looked over the maintenance guide at Toyota Parts and Service and it really looks pretty easy. A basic oil change, filter changes, and inspections. The only real addition in my case is the spark plugs.....easy enough. I'm sure I can do this myself.

Today I received a flyer from the dealer offering the 30K service for $199. It includes oil and filter change, tire rotation, cabin/air filter replacement, battery test (just had mine replaced under warranty), replace anti-corrosive pads, add washer solvent, inspect brake linings, perform factory recommended inspections, road test and reset the maintenance indicator. Of course, you go in for this then they nail you with the $100 Spark plug change...

However, what stood out to me was the anti-corrosive pads. I was going to call and ask what they were referring to, but they are closed right now. The only thing I can think of is the pads on the battery....can they be anything else? I can't think of any other "pad" on the vehicle except the brakes...and I'm sure they'd charge extra if those needed replacing.

 

[eskimochaos]

I'm sitting at about 28K miles on my 2007 4Runner SR5 V6 (2WD). I looked over the maintenance guide at Toyota Parts and Service and it really looks pretty easy. A basic oil change, filter changes, and inspections. The only real addition in my case is the spark plugs.....easy enough.

Today I received a flyer from the dealer offering the 30K service for $199. It includes oil and filter change, tire rotation, cabin/air filter replacement, battery test (just had mine replaced under warranty), replace anti-corrosive pads, add washer solvent, inspect brake linings, perform factory recommended inspections, road test and reset the maintenance indicator. Of course, you go in for this then they nail you with the $100 Spark plug change...

However, what stood out to me was the anti-corrosive pads. I was going to call and ask what they were referring to, but they are closed right now. The only thing I can think of is the pads on the battery....can they be anything else? I can't think of any other "pad" on the vehicle except the brakes...and I'm sure they'd charge extra if those needed replacing.

200 is way overpriced for what they just listed. Do an oil change, perhaps rear diff fluid change as I assume you run in 2wd most of the time, you can make your own cabin filter with HVAC filters, and do the plugs. Dunno what anti corrosive pads are but its most likely a way for the dealer to make money.

You live in Texas lol, theres no snow/salt there anyway.

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Anti-corrosive pads are probably the felts for the battery terminals. A rear axle fluid change, as Eskimo suggested, is a good idea too.
:cheers:

 

[blaniac22]

200 is way overpriced for what they just listed. Do an oil change, perhaps rear diff fluid change as I assume you run in 2wd most of the time, you can make your own cabin filter with HVAC filters, and do the plugs. Dunno what anti corrosive pads are but its most likely a way for the dealer to make money.

You live in Texas lol, theres no snow/salt there anyway.

Definitely overpriced - I'm doing what I need to myself.

Be careful on the no snow/salt. It does snow in places...just drove through it myself a few weeks back going through El Paso. Now, it's not Colorado Mountain snow...but still.:biggrin2:

And yes - since it's a 2WD - that's what I run in....:jk:

 

[blaniac22]

Anti-corrosive pads are probably the felts for the battery terminals. A rear axle fluid change, as Eskimo suggested, is a good idea too.
:cheers:

Thanks to you and Eskimo - I hadn't really thought about doing the axle fluid yet. But maybe a good time to do it while I'm in that mode. Any suggestions? Good idea to go synthetic?

 

[eskimochaos]

Thanks to you and Eskimo - I hadn't really thought about doing the axle fluid yet. But maybe a good time to do it while I'm in that mode. Any suggestions? Good idea to go synthetic?

Go M1 75w-90 should be good for 60k.

 

[blaniac22]

Go M1 75w-90 should be good for 60k.

Thanks! I'll add it to the list.

Where at in North Jersey? I lived in Bound Brook and Flemington (both closer to central Jersey) growing up before moving to PA (near Stroudsburg).

 

[eskimochaos]

Thanks! I'll add it to the list.

Where at in North Jersey? I lived in Bound Brook and Flemington (both closer to central Jersey) growing up before moving to PA (near Stroudsburg).

Westfield, go to school in Bethlehem PA.

I believe its just about 3 quarts btw.

 

[blaniac22]

Westfield, go to school in Bethlehem PA.

I believe its just about 3 quarts btw.

Thanks!

The only thing I can say about school and Bethlehem is I've been to Stabler Arena at Lehigh a bunch of times...thanks again!

 

[CJ3Flyr]

Go M1 75w-90 should be good for 60k.

Yep, if you don't tow even up to 90k would be ok. When they are new (during break-in) axles pollute the oil pretty bad with metal shavings. Changing axle fluids early on is always good. If you get one change in early chances are you'll have no issues for a very long time.

Same is true for the front axle and the t-case. M1 is good there too.

EDIT: Ooops, it's 2wd... Never mind my front axle/t-case comment:bash:

 

[eskimochaos]

Thanks!

The only thing I can say about school and Bethlehem is I've been to Stabler Arena at Lehigh a bunch of times...thanks again!

Thats where I go. Im a Junior Mechanical Engineer.