37's on a 3.5'' lift?
- Thread starter newmexrunner
- Start date
Omg
:driving:
This literally made me ****ing cringe, the solid axle is so obvious, I have seen scotts runner in person and that things is so, so, so, so far from stock.
37's are basically impossible without a full tub job or SAS
:driving:
This literally made me ****ing cringe, the solid axle is so obvious, I have seen scotts runner in person and that things is so, so, so, so far from stock.
37's are basically impossible without a full tub job or SAS
I picked up some rims from a gentleman near me last week that has his 3rd gen on 37s. Running a fairly standard 3-4" lift. He did have to tub the entire wheel wells with lots of chopping and from what he told me he would never consider doing it again. He said found a great deal on 37s when looking at 35s and said screw it and started to fab things up. Is it possible? totally is. Worthwhile, that I can't answer hah.
Flemster
Member
It can be done and it has been done. Just look at [MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION] 's build.
Lift doesn't =clearance unless its body lift. Up travel of the suspension will be the same regardless of how tall your springs are. You can limit this with bigger bump stops but that is silly. It comes down to how much you want to cut your truck up. Firewall chop, clearance fenders, move wiper fluid reservoir, possibly push batter tray higher etc.
There are lots of great write-ups on fitting larger tires without jacking your body of the frame and to do it with 37's I believe a 1" body lift is required realistically.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/140899154@N02/27022062248/in/dateposted/" title="530A2512"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/27022062248_57a995e881_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="530A2512"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Lift doesn't =clearance unless its body lift. Up travel of the suspension will be the same regardless of how tall your springs are. You can limit this with bigger bump stops but that is silly. It comes down to how much you want to cut your truck up. Firewall chop, clearance fenders, move wiper fluid reservoir, possibly push batter tray higher etc.
There are lots of great write-ups on fitting larger tires without jacking your body of the frame and to do it with 37's I believe a 1" body lift is required realistically.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/140899154@N02/27022062248/in/dateposted/" title="530A2512"><img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/820/27022062248_57a995e881_b.jpg" width="1024" height="683" alt="530A2512"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
rkntoy
New member
So if it is basically impossible without a full tub or SAS, what would the percentage of success in accomplishing it be?
rkntoy
New member
My steering is holding up fine.
My issue is the mounting - but this is more of a issue having to do with wheeling it hard and not a tire size issue in my opinion.
And I have about 15,000 miles on my rig since the 37s went on with my ancient wheel bearings. So they aren't dead yet...
I’m just skeptical because most people max out at 35” tires for these trucks. And curious as to how well and longevity of our steering rack with such huge tire.
Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT) | Tacoma World
This isn’t related to our 4runner or our generation. But for them to say the factory steering rack is good up to 35” tires. Just raises my eye brow that’s all. With that said. That’s pretty badass and impressive to run 37” ties. ****ers are probably zHeavy!
Last edited:
rkntoy
New member
Steering rack is still original. And others can attest to the fact that I use my rig for more than going to the mall.
Marlin also told me that I would grenade my stock t-case if I wheeled with a 4.7 gearset in my reduction box......
thats awesome... love hearing ifs being able to handle big tires.
With a 1" body lift and a fire wall tub, I would say yes it's possible.
My previous truck was a tubbed 3rd gen 4runner on 35's with no body lift. Cleared at true full compression lock to lock. For more info, check out this article: website | Blog
My current truck is a Lexus GX470 on 35's with no lift whatsoever and now full aluminum armor. I didn't even have to do a full tub to clear them either - just a generous body mount chop and a hammer job on the fire wall. When I upgrade to a 150-series truck, I will probably just go straight to 37's honestly. This will likely require a body mount relocation but that isn't a huge deal either.
DSC_5390 by Brandon Faliszewski, on Flickr
My previous truck was a tubbed 3rd gen 4runner on 35's with no body lift. Cleared at true full compression lock to lock. For more info, check out this article: website | Blog
My current truck is a Lexus GX470 on 35's with no lift whatsoever and now full aluminum armor. I didn't even have to do a full tub to clear them either - just a generous body mount chop and a hammer job on the fire wall. When I upgrade to a 150-series truck, I will probably just go straight to 37's honestly. This will likely require a body mount relocation but that isn't a huge deal either.
DSC_5390 by Brandon Faliszewski, on Flickr
WhiteBoomer04
New member
Sigh. Some people here make comment without actually knowing. Opinions...like *******s...everyone has one lol.
I run 37's on my 4th gen. IT CAN BE DONE!
- 2.5+" suspension lift
- 1.5" body lift
- Cut back the wings on the Shrockworks bumper by 2"
- 1.5" wheel spacers
- Cut the fire wall at the footwell area and move it back 1.5" and reweld a new patch
- Cut and trim plastic front fender pieces
- Move rear axle back 1.5" with new links and adjustable panhard
- Cut and trim rear plastic fender pieces and rear bumper (approx 2") and sheet metal cut and grind an reseal
- 4.56 gears (sux but its what I had)
- 1/4" steering limiter on front lower arms
- 1/4" bumpstops on from lower arms
- 2.5" bumpstops on rear axle
- relocate body mount
Outcomes
(-) rides more rough on road
(+) wheels with less use of lockers off road
(-) gearing is wrong
(-) takes ages to work out just how much u need to cut out/off
(-) relatively expensive
(+) additional clearance is a bonus and climbs bigger obstacles easier
Never busted axles yet.
Bearing are due for a second replacement but I did that with 35's too.
I'm starting my solid axle swap and moving to 40's in March.
Here's my honest advice for anyone contemplating it...DON'T. It's not worth the smallish benefits.
Initially I did it because I was going to solid axles and my 35's were on their way out and I didn't want to end up buying another set of 35's. Now my build is going to 40's so I will sell the 37's and will be regearing to 5.39 with crawler case attached to my twin sticks conversion. Axles are F250 Dana 60 8 lug.
BTW - mines a daily driver, but I don't do more than 10 miles a day.
I run 37's on my 4th gen. IT CAN BE DONE!
- 2.5+" suspension lift
- 1.5" body lift
- Cut back the wings on the Shrockworks bumper by 2"
- 1.5" wheel spacers
- Cut the fire wall at the footwell area and move it back 1.5" and reweld a new patch
- Cut and trim plastic front fender pieces
- Move rear axle back 1.5" with new links and adjustable panhard
- Cut and trim rear plastic fender pieces and rear bumper (approx 2") and sheet metal cut and grind an reseal
- 4.56 gears (sux but its what I had)
- 1/4" steering limiter on front lower arms
- 1/4" bumpstops on from lower arms
- 2.5" bumpstops on rear axle
- relocate body mount
Outcomes
(-) rides more rough on road
(+) wheels with less use of lockers off road
(-) gearing is wrong
(-) takes ages to work out just how much u need to cut out/off
(-) relatively expensive
(+) additional clearance is a bonus and climbs bigger obstacles easier
Never busted axles yet.
Bearing are due for a second replacement but I did that with 35's too.
I'm starting my solid axle swap and moving to 40's in March.
Here's my honest advice for anyone contemplating it...DON'T. It's not worth the smallish benefits.
Initially I did it because I was going to solid axles and my 35's were on their way out and I didn't want to end up buying another set of 35's. Now my build is going to 40's so I will sell the 37's and will be regearing to 5.39 with crawler case attached to my twin sticks conversion. Axles are F250 Dana 60 8 lug.
BTW - mines a daily driver, but I don't do more than 10 miles a day.
I thought this thread was in the 3rd Gen 4Runner section? Did I miss something?
TCMach
New member
Thanks homie.
I'm somewhere in the 2-2.5" range for lift in the front after dropping my coilovers down, then a 1" BL. Its do-able, just gotta keep cutting. Probably the best picture showing ride height compared to [MENTION=78892]Fishwerks[/MENTION] on 33s with 3" and [MENTION=107971]derpiful[/MENTION] on 35s with around 2" I think
Untitled by Tyler Carvell, on Flickr
Fishwerks
New member
Thanks homie.
I'm somewhere in the 2-2.5" range for lift in the front after dropping my coilovers down, then a 1" BL. Its do-able, just gotta keep cutting. Probably the best picture showing ride height compared to [MENTION=78892]Fishwerks[/MENTION] on 33s with 3" and [MENTION=107971]derpiful[/MENTION] on 35s with around 2" I think
Why you gotta keep posting this photo man. Dammit.
Similar threads
