3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide
- Thread starter 4-Ripcord
- Start date
poleclimber63
Member
97'...
One of my co-workers just bought a 1997 4runner .... as CofB stated:
Originally Posted by ChildrenOfBodom View Post
Some early base model 3rd gens (ULTRA base, super duper base model) didn't come with lots of stuff. Some of them didn't come with tint, power windows or locks, rear wipers, additional outlets, A/C etc, etc.
Some didn't even come with the defroster on the rear window at all. No AM antenna in the right cargo window, either. Bottom of the bottom.
... this 4Runner is stripped! It came with 4wd, rear defroster, radio! NO A/C, PWs, locks, tilt, tint, basic seats, no acc 12v plug, roof rack etc. What it has is: rear wiper, 2.7L, 5spd, 4wd and 15" wheels.... which makes it look like a baby 4Runner next to mine! The great part of the deal, for my workmate, is that it has 70K miles, and was factory undercoated, and has NO Rust! He has most all service records! The only thing he's needed to do, was remove the fruity 'splash' decals on the sides.... I may have a buyer for my 2nd set of 16" wheels!
One of my co-workers just bought a 1997 4runner .... as CofB stated:
Originally Posted by ChildrenOfBodom View Post
Some early base model 3rd gens (ULTRA base, super duper base model) didn't come with lots of stuff. Some of them didn't come with tint, power windows or locks, rear wipers, additional outlets, A/C etc, etc.
Some didn't even come with the defroster on the rear window at all. No AM antenna in the right cargo window, either. Bottom of the bottom.
... this 4Runner is stripped! It came with 4wd, rear defroster, radio! NO A/C, PWs, locks, tilt, tint, basic seats, no acc 12v plug, roof rack etc. What it has is: rear wiper, 2.7L, 5spd, 4wd and 15" wheels.... which makes it look like a baby 4Runner next to mine! The great part of the deal, for my workmate, is that it has 70K miles, and was factory undercoated, and has NO Rust! He has most all service records! The only thing he's needed to do, was remove the fruity 'splash' decals on the sides.... I may have a buyer for my 2nd set of 16" wheels!
ICD
New member
pdx650
Member
For poleclimber63
I tried replying to your message you sent me, but my text was 3,519 characters too long. So I am adding it here. Hope you don't mind.
I do have the base model '97 'Runner. I have A/C, auto. trans, power locks, mirrors, A.D.D. front diff. (Automatic Differential lock) with the standard 'J' transfer case shifter, no locking rear diff'. That was an option, but the owner didn't opt for it.
The 2.7 3RZ-FE.... hmmm. Let me see. Since I'm on a budget and my wife thinks it is a money pit, I've not been able to do a lot with it. Standard maintenance. The engine has a timing chain, which is inherently better than the timing belt for the 3.4 liter. I'm having issues at 195K+ miles on the Idle Air Control Valve (P0505) fault code. The valve costs upwards of $265 just for the part (not to include labor to replace). It is relatively easy to get to with some time. I was able to remove the throttle body (which it is connected to under neath it as it is installed on the vehicle). There are four gorilla-tight brass screws mounting the idle air control valve to the throttle body and I was not able to separate them to continue on with more work. I have the oddly shaped rubber gasket downstairs that is sandwiched between the two waiting for installation. And I had to buy another gasket for the throttle body as it is mounted to the intake runners. The old one broke as I was taking the throttle body off the intake runners.
The engine is under-powered. Mine has the automatic transmission. So, I am not aware of it's performance with the manual trans. I know that the 4th automatic gear is slightly taller than the fifth gear on the manual trans. So, I get better fuel mileage with my 'Runner than your friend will.
I towed a 1,500 lb U-Haul trailer from eastern Virginia to the middle of Montana in early June with it. Granted, I was not breaking sound barrier speeds. I kept it, as best I could have, around 70-ish MPH on cruise control. I was crawling (30 mph) up through points in the Appalachian mountains. I'm glad I installed the remote trans. cooler and auto meter trans. cooler temp. gauge. I topped out at 210-220 degrees trans. fluid temp. at that point, but that didn't last for long.
When I reached the 'Bad Lands' of North Dakota, I was about overheating, but not for too long. I think I need a new radiator. The heater has always had issues with not putting out heat into the cabin interior. I flushed out the radiator, but still made no difference.
For the weight to power ratio....meh...it's okay. I'm not putting a supercharger on it, but I could if I got squirrelly. They are available for that engine. I could go the route of turbo diesel, too, but that costs more than the supercharger. I live at about 3,500 feet elevation. I think I get 17-21 mpg.
I have never had to crack open the valve cover or any major components for maintenance. No leaks underneath for anything. I'm lucky there. The engine oil filter is in a ****ty location. Getting to it is better done underneath while standing up if your pal can get to a lift bay, like I can, and with a band wrench to remove. The filter is a fram 3614 and it is the same my other car, a 2005 ford focus zx3, uses.
Strange.
Fortunate, there is a decent amount of space, inside the engine bay, to do some things for alterations/modifications.
I want to remove the radiator fan and install an electric one (or two) to increase some horsepower, but I don't think it will add anything noticeable. Still, it might help with fuel economy, too.
Wish I could add more to the knowledge base for your friend, but I cannot. Sorry.
I tried replying to your message you sent me, but my text was 3,519 characters too long. So I am adding it here. Hope you don't mind.
I do have the base model '97 'Runner. I have A/C, auto. trans, power locks, mirrors, A.D.D. front diff. (Automatic Differential lock) with the standard 'J' transfer case shifter, no locking rear diff'. That was an option, but the owner didn't opt for it.
The 2.7 3RZ-FE.... hmmm. Let me see. Since I'm on a budget and my wife thinks it is a money pit, I've not been able to do a lot with it. Standard maintenance. The engine has a timing chain, which is inherently better than the timing belt for the 3.4 liter. I'm having issues at 195K+ miles on the Idle Air Control Valve (P0505) fault code. The valve costs upwards of $265 just for the part (not to include labor to replace). It is relatively easy to get to with some time. I was able to remove the throttle body (which it is connected to under neath it as it is installed on the vehicle). There are four gorilla-tight brass screws mounting the idle air control valve to the throttle body and I was not able to separate them to continue on with more work. I have the oddly shaped rubber gasket downstairs that is sandwiched between the two waiting for installation. And I had to buy another gasket for the throttle body as it is mounted to the intake runners. The old one broke as I was taking the throttle body off the intake runners.
The engine is under-powered. Mine has the automatic transmission. So, I am not aware of it's performance with the manual trans. I know that the 4th automatic gear is slightly taller than the fifth gear on the manual trans. So, I get better fuel mileage with my 'Runner than your friend will.
I towed a 1,500 lb U-Haul trailer from eastern Virginia to the middle of Montana in early June with it. Granted, I was not breaking sound barrier speeds. I kept it, as best I could have, around 70-ish MPH on cruise control. I was crawling (30 mph) up through points in the Appalachian mountains. I'm glad I installed the remote trans. cooler and auto meter trans. cooler temp. gauge. I topped out at 210-220 degrees trans. fluid temp. at that point, but that didn't last for long.
When I reached the 'Bad Lands' of North Dakota, I was about overheating, but not for too long. I think I need a new radiator. The heater has always had issues with not putting out heat into the cabin interior. I flushed out the radiator, but still made no difference.
For the weight to power ratio....meh...it's okay. I'm not putting a supercharger on it, but I could if I got squirrelly. They are available for that engine. I could go the route of turbo diesel, too, but that costs more than the supercharger. I live at about 3,500 feet elevation. I think I get 17-21 mpg.
I have never had to crack open the valve cover or any major components for maintenance. No leaks underneath for anything. I'm lucky there. The engine oil filter is in a ****ty location. Getting to it is better done underneath while standing up if your pal can get to a lift bay, like I can, and with a band wrench to remove. The filter is a fram 3614 and it is the same my other car, a 2005 ford focus zx3, uses.
Strange. Fortunate, there is a decent amount of space, inside the engine bay, to do some things for alterations/modifications.
I want to remove the radiator fan and install an electric one (or two) to increase some horsepower, but I don't think it will add anything noticeable. Still, it might help with fuel economy, too.
Wish I could add more to the knowledge base for your friend, but I cannot. Sorry.
Hey guys. New to the forum and am looking at a third gen 4runner for a daily driver. I have Z06 that I've decided to remove from daily driving duty and I'm thinking of putting a T4R in the stable.
I'm looking at three different cars here in dallas.
1) 2002. Has 119k miles, sport edition, offered up by a Toyota dealership but I'm unsure of the maintenance records as the Carfax doesn't go into any detail. Will ask dealer if timing belt has been changed. The car is sunfire red and looks to be in great shape! Dealer is asking 9,800. Carfax shown below
Cars for Sale: 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 in Dallas, TX 75228: Sport Utility Details - 337175365 - AutoTrader.com
CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
2) 2002. Has 169,300 miles, black, sport edition. The Carfax shows that this car has been maintained perfectly; it's a one owner and this owner took it to a Toyota dealer that reported every maintenance record to Carfax. Oil changes were every 3-5k miles and the timing belt was changed at the correct time. Offered by the same dealer as above and they are asking 7,700. Carfax shown below
Cars for Sale: 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 in Dallas, TX 75228: Sport Utility Details - 337352319 - AutoTrader.com
CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
3) 2000. Offered by an individual, silver, limited edition with 4 wheel drive. 159k miles and is an original owner. Unsure of maintenance but will inquire more. Stated the timing belt was replaced in 2005. I saw the car yesterday and it's in good shape, however there is a dent in the rear bumper (small and not bothersome, can be seen in the pictures), some paint is peeling off the fender flares, the suspension is rather noisy/squeeky (Ive driven 2 other T4R and they weren't that way) and the antenna doesnt go all the way up or down. Tires are brand new. He is asking 7,250. EDIT: Just received the vin and ran a carfax and there was structural damage to the car when the first owner had it. This car is out
Cars for Sale: 2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited in Plano, TX 75023: Sport Utility Details - 337530757 - AutoTrader.com
My question is, should high miles worry me with these trucks? Option 2 would be perfect as I love knowing it has been maintained in proper intervals but I've never bought a car with high miles before. Hell, my 2002 Z06 has 23k miles on it and its in perfect shape! Options 1 and 2 are 2 wheel drive and the car will not be taken off road. It will be my daily driver, as such the lower mile car looks appealing. I will install a new radiator in all of the above as to avoid the strawberry milkshake.
As for pricing, I don't plan on paying the prices listed. I was thinking of offering 8.5k for option 1, 7k for option 2, and 6.7 for option three. Is this in line? Am I crazy for not wanting the 4wd T4R?
Thanks for the help. I've read the forum in detail and love how these things just seemingly love the high miles.
I'm looking at three different cars here in dallas.
1) 2002. Has 119k miles, sport edition, offered up by a Toyota dealership but I'm unsure of the maintenance records as the Carfax doesn't go into any detail. Will ask dealer if timing belt has been changed. The car is sunfire red and looks to be in great shape! Dealer is asking 9,800. Carfax shown below
Cars for Sale: 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 in Dallas, TX 75228: Sport Utility Details - 337175365 - AutoTrader.com
CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
2) 2002. Has 169,300 miles, black, sport edition. The Carfax shows that this car has been maintained perfectly; it's a one owner and this owner took it to a Toyota dealer that reported every maintenance record to Carfax. Oil changes were every 3-5k miles and the timing belt was changed at the correct time. Offered by the same dealer as above and they are asking 7,700. Carfax shown below
Cars for Sale: 2002 Toyota 4Runner SR5 in Dallas, TX 75228: Sport Utility Details - 337352319 - AutoTrader.com
CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 2002 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
3) 2000. Offered by an individual, silver, limited edition with 4 wheel drive. 159k miles and is an original owner. Unsure of maintenance but will inquire more. Stated the timing belt was replaced in 2005. I saw the car yesterday and it's in good shape, however there is a dent in the rear bumper (small and not bothersome, can be seen in the pictures), some paint is peeling off the fender flares, the suspension is rather noisy/squeeky (Ive driven 2 other T4R and they weren't that way) and the antenna doesnt go all the way up or down. Tires are brand new. He is asking 7,250. EDIT: Just received the vin and ran a carfax and there was structural damage to the car when the first owner had it. This car is out
Cars for Sale: 2000 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Limited in Plano, TX 75023: Sport Utility Details - 337530757 - AutoTrader.com
My question is, should high miles worry me with these trucks? Option 2 would be perfect as I love knowing it has been maintained in proper intervals but I've never bought a car with high miles before. Hell, my 2002 Z06 has 23k miles on it and its in perfect shape! Options 1 and 2 are 2 wheel drive and the car will not be taken off road. It will be my daily driver, as such the lower mile car looks appealing. I will install a new radiator in all of the above as to avoid the strawberry milkshake.
As for pricing, I don't plan on paying the prices listed. I was thinking of offering 8.5k for option 1, 7k for option 2, and 6.7 for option three. Is this in line? Am I crazy for not wanting the 4wd T4R?
Thanks for the help. I've read the forum in detail and love how these things just seemingly love the high miles.
Last edited:
poleclimber63
Member
Thanks
Thanks for the reply! Sorry it took so long. I've since had a chance to discuss what his opinion is of the performance and he says it has more gutts than his old Subaru. He has been quite surprised, it is not really powerful but it is enough, as long as towing isn't a basic requirement (he has no plan on towing). He has had zero issues and has in fact, done some Winter off roading and has been very impressed. I plan on selling him my 16 " 's in the Spring and some minor body work, oops from the previous owner. He loves this truck compared to the Subaru he had before.
Thanks for the reply! Sorry it took so long. I've since had a chance to discuss what his opinion is of the performance and he says it has more gutts than his old Subaru. He has been quite surprised, it is not really powerful but it is enough, as long as towing isn't a basic requirement (he has no plan on towing). He has had zero issues and has in fact, done some Winter off roading and has been very impressed. I plan on selling him my 16 " 's in the Spring and some minor body work, oops from the previous owner. He loves this truck compared to the Subaru he had before.
I tried replying to your message you sent me, but my text was 3,519 characters too long. So I am adding it here. Hope you don't mind.
I do have the base model '97 'Runner. I have A/C, auto. trans, power locks, mirrors, A.D.D. front diff. (Automatic Differential lock) with the standard 'J' transfer case shifter, no locking rear diff'. That was an option, but the owner didn't opt for it.
The 2.7 3RZ-FE.... hmmm. Let me see. Since I'm on a budget and my wife thinks it is a money pit, I've not been able to do a lot with it. Standard maintenance. The engine has a timing chain, which is inherently better than the timing belt for the 3.4 liter. I'm having issues at 195K+ miles on the Idle Air Control Valve (P0505) fault code. The valve costs upwards of $265 just for the part (not to include labor to replace). It is relatively easy to get to with some time. I was able to remove the throttle body (which it is connected to under neath it as it is installed on the vehicle). There are four gorilla-tight brass screws mounting the idle air control valve to the throttle body and I was not able to separate them to continue on with more work. I have the oddly shaped rubber gasket downstairs that is sandwiched between the two waiting for installation. And I had to buy another gasket for the throttle body as it is mounted to the intake runners. The old one broke as I was taking the throttle body off the intake runners.
The engine is under-powered. Mine has the automatic transmission. So, I am not aware of it's performance with the manual trans. I know that the 4th automatic gear is slightly taller than the fifth gear on the manual trans. So, I get better fuel mileage with my 'Runner than your friend will.
I towed a 1,500 lb U-Haul trailer from eastern Virginia to the middle of Montana in early June with it. Granted, I was not breaking sound barrier speeds. I kept it, as best I could have, around 70-ish MPH on cruise control. I was crawling (30 mph) up through points in the Appalachian mountains. I'm glad I installed the remote trans. cooler and auto meter trans. cooler temp. gauge. I topped out at 210-220 degrees trans. fluid temp. at that point, but that didn't last for long.
When I reached the 'Bad Lands' of North Dakota, I was about overheating, but not for too long. I think I need a new radiator. The heater has always had issues with not putting out heat into the cabin interior. I flushed out the radiator, but still made no difference.
For the weight to power ratio....meh...it's okay. I'm not putting a supercharger on it, but I could if I got squirrelly. They are available for that engine. I could go the route of turbo diesel, too, but that costs more than the supercharger. I live at about 3,500 feet elevation. I think I get 17-21 mpg.
I have never had to crack open the valve cover or any major components for maintenance. No leaks underneath for anything. I'm lucky there. The engine oil filter is in a ****ty location. Getting to it is better done underneath while standing up if your pal can get to a lift bay, like I can, and with a band wrench to remove. The filter is a fram 3614 and it is the same my other car, a 2005 ford focus zx3, uses.
Fortunate, there is a decent amount of space, inside the engine bay, to do some things for alterations/modifications.
I want to remove the radiator fan and install an electric one (or two) to increase some horsepower, but I don't think it will add anything noticeable. Still, it might help with fuel economy, too.
Wish I could add more to the knowledge base for your friend, but I cannot. Sorry.
poleclimber63
Member
2...
If these are your only choices, I'm with Ripcord, 2. Maintenance is critical, this definitely offsets the 50k and they're asking significantly less$.... 4x4 is the only thing we see here in Canada. I did run into someone a couple of years ago, but he imported his 2x4 from the USA. As I have a 98, the only time I need to use 4x4 is now (we have 18" of snow), when I go off road, and when I drag the boat out of the Lake on a steep boat launch. I love the 4x4 and really only have the 4runner for that reason (and because I love Toyota!). However, you're in Texas (hot??) and have no plans to go off road. You therefore will have a truck which will last forever if you keep it maintained! Good luck and welcome to the 4runner world!
If these are your only choices, I'm with Ripcord, 2. Maintenance is critical, this definitely offsets the 50k and they're asking significantly less$.... 4x4 is the only thing we see here in Canada. I did run into someone a couple of years ago, but he imported his 2x4 from the USA. As I have a 98, the only time I need to use 4x4 is now (we have 18" of snow), when I go off road, and when I drag the boat out of the Lake on a steep boat launch. I love the 4x4 and really only have the 4runner for that reason (and because I love Toyota!). However, you're in Texas (hot??) and have no plans to go off road. You therefore will have a truck which will last forever if you keep it maintained! Good luck and welcome to the 4runner world!
^ These are my options for now. I can't find a local 4wd car that is in good shape (ie: no accidents, clean title, etc). Most cars down here are 2wd. I could travel for a 4wd T4R but that seems strange for a car that's less than 9 grand. I did travel for my Z06 though bc it was exactly what I wanted.
What are peoples thought about the linked:
2001 Toyota 4Runner
Higher miles, but owned in a family since new (son bought it from his dad in 2006) and has records of all major maintenance items. Checking on carfax, but the price seems right and is 4wd
2001 Toyota 4Runner
Higher miles, but owned in a family since new (son bought it from his dad in 2006) and has records of all major maintenance items. Checking on carfax, but the price seems right and is 4wd
downpour11
New member
Definitely go look at that one
Will do! What should I look for when it comes to the functionality of the 4wd? Never owned one so I don't have the slightest clue to tell if it is workign properly or not. :shrug:
downpour11
New member
You can test it on pavement, in a parking lot or something. You can shift into 4hi while driving to test that but to shift into 4lo you'll want to stop the truck, put it in neutral, then shift into 4lo, then put it in drive. You'll see the 4wd lights on the dash light up. Drive verrry slowly if your on pavement. You'll feel it working.
Great! That's some great info. I did receive some more info on one other T4R Im looking at:
98 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4WD
And here is the response I received:
Here is a link to the carfax.
CARFAX Vehicle History Report for this 1998 TOYOTA 4RUNNER SR5
The timing belt was last changed (with the water pump and pulleys) at 130K so it is good until 220K.
The oil has never went past 3500 miles since I have had the vehicle (always Valvoline) usually within a few miles of 3000.
I just had the tranmission flushed. The brakes have new fluid also - just recently did the upgrade on the disk brakes to 199mm Tundra calipers/rotors.
I have a new radiator to install at which time the block should be flushed. (Just have not had the time to do it) The current radiator is fine but there is an inherent problem with the transmission cooler part of the radiator. If you do a search of "strawberry milkshake 3rd Gen 4Runner" you will get information on this. The new radiator is to eliminate this from happening. I have a gallon of the expensive Toyota coolant to go with it.
I know the mileage concerns some people but 300K is realistic as long as they are maintained. I bought a 2000 4Rnnner - that is why I am selling it. If I had it to do over I would have been the 98.
I think once you see it you will appreaciate how well it has been taken care of.
There is a pellet gun wound in the front finder which needs to be taken care of.
poleclimber63
Member
look...
I'd look at the first one, the 2nd one looks in better shape but has more miles... feet on the ground! Whatever you do, get them mechanically checked as well as scanned for codes etc (OBD2). The 2nd one is exactly the same as mine, right down to the colour! If the guy has done the brake upgrade, he's most likely taken care of it and even installed a front tube bumper. From the pics, looks to be in better shape... hard to tell, again, take a look!
I'd look at the first one, the 2nd one looks in better shape but has more miles... feet on the ground! Whatever you do, get them mechanically checked as well as scanned for codes etc (OBD2). The 2nd one is exactly the same as mine, right down to the colour! If the guy has done the brake upgrade, he's most likely taken care of it and even installed a front tube bumper. From the pics, looks to be in better shape... hard to tell, again, take a look!
Looked at this car today. There were about 10 hail marks on the hood, the steering wheel was in bad shape, the A/C button didn't work, 2 of the 4 fender flares were scraped against something, but it drove really well. If the "skin" of it was in as good fo condition as it drove, I would have given him the cash. I might explore the 190k mile car as he seems like an enthusiast.
poleclimber63
Member
rear seal...
Yes, pretty much everyone thats had a 3rd gen for any length of time has done the seals. Mine went 6 months into ownership. Check out this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html
If you get this done in a shop expect to pay $800-1200. Some guys change just the seals and not the bearings--- the bill then will be $200-300. The thing is, if the seals leak, the diff oil flows through the bearings possibly "washing" out the grease... either way, you must replace the rear brake pads if they get ANY oil on them, as you will have issues ie. freezing rear emergency brakes when parked (PITA) and bumping noises when you take your foot off the brake... been there, done that!
This is a great bargaining chip!
Yes, pretty much everyone thats had a 3rd gen for any length of time has done the seals. Mine went 6 months into ownership. Check out this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...e-information-replacement-thread-3rd-gen.html
If you get this done in a shop expect to pay $800-1200. Some guys change just the seals and not the bearings--- the bill then will be $200-300. The thing is, if the seals leak, the diff oil flows through the bearings possibly "washing" out the grease... either way, you must replace the rear brake pads if they get ANY oil on them, as you will have issues ie. freezing rear emergency brakes when parked (PITA) and bumping noises when you take your foot off the brake... been there, done that!
This is a great bargaining chip!
Great! Thanks for this info. I started reading the thread you linked. The guy with the 98 is asking 6500, which I think is entirely too high, esp with 190k miles. I'm thinking anything over 4.8k is too much....thoughts?
