3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

[octanejunkie]

$2K seems fair, but...

Any maintenance records?

Does 4WD work?

Any codes or pending codes? OBDII
- if all tests are flashing he just reset it and that's a red flag

If no codes checks out, I'd offer maybe $1800 cash and settle at $2K. Show him the cash. That always helps.
-dont get robbed, meet in a public place and let him show you the pink slip before you flash the cash

Tell him the interior is gonna cost you $1,000 to bring up to snuff and get him to meet you half way

Just my opinion/advice

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Supersonic]

My thought is if it runs and drives and no rust, $2k + whatever he settles on even full asking price is something reasonable. Posting the wrong info on "Drivetype: RWD" makes one wonder why? Is he selling for another family member, does he have a title, is he a car flipper? But that really isn't a deal breaker, though the post has been up for 8 days.

Second look. Seat covers and the paper floor mat with boots also say this is likely some kind of middle man transaction, I'd have to be confident about any possible title issues. If your able to do more inspections and car fax, go ahead and be an informed buyer, and maybe even a couple more of days of back and forth you could get your price.

Third and final thought, is the radiator been put in after the strawberry milkshake manifested? Ball Joints? There's no rust, I'd really like that, but seeing the trailer hitch makes me think, look harder. Seals, any sign of axle, transfer, transmission, or engine seals leaking? OBD2, any codes or history codes? CV joints/boots? Good luck, from my arm chair it's a good project and even better if it runs and drives and you can use it as you go.

Is this what you really want and do you have the resources to overcome the shortcomings, seen and unseen? That's the question to understand.

 

[4ranna]

So I ran the carfax and an interesting story appeared! Firstly, no accidents or damage.

Turns out - this T4R was leased new in 98 in Mobile AL, then taken in 99 to live in Pensacola, FL.

In 02 a new owner was registered back in AL for a year, likely the same person buying out the lease. Same owner took it to VA in 03 where it lived until 09, when it moved back to AL again. 4 years later it moved again to VA (in 2013) where it lived for a year before being sold to the next owner.

Owner 3 kept it in VA till last September and continued servicing it at the same shop. I'm thinking either it was kept in the family or was sold very locally! This goes some way to explaining the amazing condition of the frame, it spent half its life in AL and FL. Also, since 1998 its only been serviced at 3 different shops, 1 Toyota dealer in FL, 1 Toyota Dealer in AL and 1 shop in VA.

Finally in September it was likely traded in and in October it was sold at auction.

Recent Services listed:
(Sep-17 198k) Wipers replaced, Axle seals replaced
(Feb-17 193k) Brake fluid flush
(Jan-16 185k) passed VA inspection after failing once
(Aug-15 181k) Serviced
(Nov-14 178k) Serviced
(Jun-14 176k) Trans fluid changed
(Apr-14 175k) wipers replaced


Red Flags

Big gap in servicing reported between 68k and 168k miles. Although it moved to AL in this time and registration was renewed each year per AL state law.

The owner's story doesn't tie back with the Carfax. He said he's had it for about a year but the paper floor mat and yellow tag on the key suggest otherwise

No timing belt service info in the carfax and no service paperwork from the seller. He only has the title. I will phone the shop that worked on it tomorrow and try and get some info if possible.

 

[4ranna]

$2K seems fair, but...

Any maintenance records?

Does 4WD work?

Any codes or pending codes? OBDII
- if all tests are flashing he just reset it and that's a red flag

If no codes checks out, I'd offer maybe $1800 cash and settle at $2K. Show him the cash. That always helps.
-dont get robbed, meet in a public place and let him show you the pink slip before you flash the cash

Tell him the interior is gonna cost you $1,000 to bring up to snuff and get him to meet you half way

No records at all except for what I've just pulled from carfax...but a surprisingly comprehensive record on there!

I'll check the 4WD and codes on when I go back to view it properly. Totally agree on the interior cost, plus the windshield and tyres will be another $800

My thought is if it runs and drives and no rust, $2k + whatever he settles on even full asking price is something reasonable. Posting the wrong info on "Drivetype: RWD" makes one wonder why? Is he selling for another family member, does he have a title, is he a car flipper? But that really isn't a deal breaker, though the post has been up for 8 days.

Second look. Seat covers and the paper floor mat with boots also say this is likely some kind of middle man transaction, I'd have to be confident about any possible title issues. If your able to do more inspections and car fax, go ahead and be an informed buyer, and maybe even a couple more of days of back and forth you could get your price.

Third and final thought, is the radiator been put in after the strawberry milkshake manifested? Ball Joints? There's no rust, I'd really like that, but seeing the trailer hitch makes me think, look harder. Seals, any sign of axle, transfer, transmission, or engine seals leaking? OBD2, any codes or history codes? CV joints/boots? Good luck, from my arm chair it's a good project and even better if it runs and drives and you can use it as you go.

Is this what you really want and do you have the resources to overcome the shortcomings, seen and unseen? That's the question to understand.

Maybe the RWD was mislabled on the ad if he copied the info from somewhere because he knew it was 4WD when I viewed, though he still thinks its an SR5. Might well be a car flipper or someone who works for one and wasn't being upfront. As I mentioned, carfax said it was sold at auction a couple months ago and the tag on the key and paper floor mat all seem to agree! Great spot Supersonic! He said he has a clear title which I'll look at when I go back. I also ran the VIN on the NICB and it came back clear which is great.

I will definitely look harder and in more detail when I return to see it. I'm going to call the servicing dealership in VA and try to get more info, especially on the timing belt. Is it worth buying an OBD2 reader before I go? Or at this point just check if any lights are on after the test drive?

Lastly he seemed to be firm at $2.2k but I'll see what I can do...

 

[octanejunkie]

Of course he's firm, look at how often the wiper blades we're changed :hatsoff:

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[2ndhandyotaman]

I've looked at quite a few of these locally ( baltimore ) and this one looks familiar. If it's the one that I'm thinking of, the "owner" was just another curbside (curbstoner) car flipper that didn't have his name on the title, just some dealership transfer documents.

Ask to see the title to verify that he's the actual owner.

Never mind, I KNOW that I've looked at this one. Young black guy selling it, in an apartment building off of Reisterstown Rd? Just RUN away from this one. The night that I looked at it, when he started it the lifters were clacking very loudly. I pulled the dips tick and it was at least 2 qts low. I let it idle for about 10 minutes, waiting for some heat to come out of the vents, it never happened, so we jump in to go for a short drive. I didn't make it out of the side road before the temp gauge pegged and the motor was pinging so badly it sounded like marbles were bouncing around in the crank case. I took it back to its parking spot and shut it off. I pop the hood and the kid grabs a gallon of water from his car and starts filling the radiator and said something to the effect of " I forgot to fill it before you got here ".

That statement was bad enough, but he was pouring straight water into the rad when it was only 36° and it was going below freezing that night. I snapped a pic of the license plate ( no front tag) and asked a cop buddy if it was registered to that vehicle. He checked and told me 'nope '.

Everytime that I see his ad on CL, I flag it. There's also an ad on Cars.com for the same vehicle. I'm not telling you what to do, I just wanted to let you know what I experienced with this runner. I too was impressed at how clean the body and frame were, I just refuse to support another lying car flipper/ dealer. Make these fookers take their turd vehicles back to the the auction that they came from.

 

[4ranna]

I've looked at quite a few of these locally ( baltimore ) and this one looks familiar. If it's the one that I'm thinking of, the "owner" was just another curbside (curbstoner) car flipper that didn't have his name on the title, just some dealership transfer documents.

Ask to see the title to verify that he's the actual owner.

Never mind, I KNOW that I've looked at this one. Young black guy selling it, in an apartment building off of Reisterstown Rd? Just RUN away from this one. The night that I looked at it, when he started it the lifters were clacking very loudly. I pulled the dips tick and it was at least 2 qts low. I let it idle for about 10 minutes, waiting for some heat to come out of the vents, it never happened, so we jump in to go for a short drive. I didn't make it out of the side road before the temp gauge pegged and the motor was pinging so badly it sounded like marbles were bouncing around in the crank case. I took it back to its parking spot and shut it off. I pop the hood and the kid grabs a gallon of water from his car and starts filling the radiator and said something to the effect of " I forgot to fill it before you got here ".

That statement was bad enough, but he was pouring straight water into the rad when it was only 36° and it was going below freezing that night. I snapped a pic of the license plate ( no front tag) and asked a cop buddy if it was registered to that vehicle. He checked and told me 'nope '.

Everytime that I see his ad on CL, I flag it. There's also an ad on Cars.com for the same vehicle. I'm not telling you what to do, I just wanted to let you know what I experienced with this runner. I too was impressed at how clean the body and frame were, I just refuse to support another lying car flipper/ dealer. Make these fookers take their turd vehicles back to the the auction that they came from.

This is exactly why I was singing the praises of this forum earlier. You're a legend - I will run far away!

It's such a shame because the car had such good potential, especially from the body condition and the carfax! Ah well, I'll keep looking but thanks again bud!!!

Have you found your T4R yet?

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

That runner does have potential, but not at the asking price. ( just my opinion, but if people would stop overpaying just because its a 4runner, prices would come down to a reasonable point for the ones that need so much work. It's as bad as the people who pay 10K for a wrangler with 250K on the odo and a fully rotted out frame !)

I'm still looking myself. I turned down that one in Dover, PA with the salvage certificate. I had too many friends tell me to stay away from a salvage certificate. A physical title that's branded wouldn't be as bad, but avoid the certificates. I'll listen to their wisdom this time. The guy had another '99 4runner SR5 base that ran decent, just had way too much rust. I tapped the inner rocker panels with my flashlight and it just rained rust crumbs.

I looked at one more today from CL, a '98. The owner has had it for 5 years, the frame was spotless and the overall body was not bad, but the windshield frame area was rotted away on the passenger side. It would be eligible for Historic tags in a few weeks, but the rot holes would just bother me personally.
Best of luck to you on your search as well. :thumb:

 

[4ranna]

Honestly the way you described the mechanical issues and then the mismatched tags turned me off more than anything, i'm not mechanically minded enough and can't take that risk. There is a solid truck under there though, especially if the interior were brought up to scratch.

I've seen the one with the windshield frame rust on CL but looking closer at the pics of the rust really turned me off - I feared the worst for the rest of the truck. Glad you agree!

That's interesting about the historic tags - is there any benefit to these anymore? It used to get you out of inspections if I'm correct? (Kinda new to MD so not totally sure!) but I heard that no longer applies anymore?

Best of luck to you on your search as well.

Thanks bud! I'm going to see one in Laurel tomorrow - it's a bit pricier and the owner is dealer who knows nothing about it. Only had 2 owners and I have a feeling the last one was a real 4Runner enthusiast looking at some of the upgrades etc. Will report back!

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

Honestly the way you described the mechanical issues and then the mismatched tags turned me off more than anything, i'm not mechanically minded enough and can't take that risk. There is a solid truck under there though, especially if the interior were brought up to scratch.

I've seen the one with the windshield frame rust on CL but looking closer at the pics of the rust really turned me off - I feared the worst for the rest of the truck. Glad you agree!

That's interesting about the historic tags - is there any benefit to these anymore? It used to get you out of inspections if I'm correct? (Kinda new to MD so not totally sure!) but I heard that no longer applies anymore?



Thanks bud! I'm going to see one in Laurel tomorrow - it's a bit pricier and the owner is dealer who knows nothing about it. Only had 2 owners and I have a feeling the last one was a real 4Runner enthusiast looking at some of the upgrades etc. Will report back!

Historic tags are for vehicles 20 years and older. You don't have to get a state inspection and they are emissions exempt, but they are NOT for DD usage. Weekends/holidays and occasional use, 3K miles per year I think. A state trooper friend tells me that very soon, the MVA will require that a person has a registered DD before they will be allowed to get historic plates for an older vehicle. Police are also now allowed to stop and issue repair orders for anything that would fail a state inspection or that needs immediate repairs for safe road operation on a vehicle with Historic plates.

The 'runner in Laurel, I looked at that one as well. I was able to push holes through the inner rocker panels with my finger, the rear bumper was pushed into the body and has been rusting for a while. The seller kept telling me how "spotless and rust free" the truck was. After I told him thatI shouldn't be able to push my finger through sheet metal on a 'rust free' vehicle, he got ignorant and told me that maybe I should drive to the Toyota dealership and get something new, but since I was looking at an old truck that meant that I didn't have any money to buy something new. class act, that seller.

 

[Supersonic]

Is it worth buying an OBD2 reader before I go?

Lastly he seemed to be firm at $2.2k but I'll see what I can do...

Yes. P0306, cylinder misfire 6th cylinder, you'll want to know, needs new catalytic converter, you'd want to know. There's some good inexpensive code readers out there, Autel seems to offer a lot, but there's others too.

And know having some insider information, I'd say 'if' you want an in-depth project, offer $400 to $600, knowing worst case scenario is a new motor and transmission. Tell him that it is a project that will get expensive and you know it has been advertised before and you'll get him out from under it if he has a clear title. I'd do this part in person being your already familiar with him, and have the cash, that might just be enough, but leave him with your number if you have to, I'd bet he calls back after thinking it over.

I can see spending ~$4k or less and having a good vehicle, but consider the time too, and I may not have any idea what gets this one up to snuff, but it does not have the rust which is the best (maybe only) selling point.

 

[4ranna]

Yes. P0306, cylinder misfire 6th cylinder, you'll want to know, needs new catalytic converter, you'd want to know. There's some good inexpensive code readers out there, Autel seems to offer a lot, but there's others too.

And know having some insider information, I'd say 'if' you want an in-depth project, offer $400 to $600, knowing worst case scenario is a new motor and transmission. Tell him that it is a project that will get expensive and you know it has been advertised before and you'll get him out from under it if he has a clear title. I'd do this part in person being your already familiar with him, and have the cash, that might just be enough, but leave him with your number if you have to, I'd bet he calls back after thinking it over.

I can see spending ~$4k or less and having a good vehicle, but consider the time too, and I may not have any idea what gets this one up to snuff, but it does not have the rust which is the best (maybe only) selling point.

Thanks man! I think I'll stick with the decision to run from that T4R - I don't have the time right now to take on a project and want something a little more sorted. The one in Laurel - did we see the same one? I like it a lot. The frame had more rust than the one in Reistertown but it looked to be surface; the inner rocker panels seemed fine too? I pulled all the service records from Toyota Owners and it's documented back to 2000, continuously Toyota serviced. Good clean Carfax too. ALSO - it had the TRD 4th Gen supercharger and I THINK the URD 7th Kit installed too. I'm going to get it PPI'd but may pull the trigger on this one...

Also - good to know about the historic tags. Wouldn't suit me as I'd need to drive it more often than that, but I have an FD3 RX7 on historics and there's no way that is a DD

 

[2ndhandyotaman]

The one that I looked at was located off of Olive Branch Way. I never looked under the hood, I just saw the rear axle was crusty, the frame had some surface crust along every weld and then I found the rot in the rear of the DS inner rocker panel. I didn't go any farther than that. Very possibly a different one from the one that you looked at. Best of luck with the search. PPI is a great idea, or even a state inspection because the cost is probably about the same.

 

[Jrblanke]

Awesome guide! I used it to help me know what to look for when searching for my 1st 4runner. I ended up with a 1997 SR5 w/ 5 speed manual.

Is there a way to acquire a copy the original window sticker or original dealer invoice?

 

[Noonan11]

Buy a 4Runner?

Hello, I’m new to this site and actually Gen3 4Runners. A friend of mine has a 99 4R at his house that he can’t get started and has offered it to me for a really low price. Anyways, I worked on it a little bit several months ago and couldn’t figure out the issue. The truck cranks but won’t start. No spark on the plugs. I pulled the fuel line as it goes to the injector rail, turned it and fuel shot everywhere, so I’m thinking the fuel pump is not the issue. It’s almostlike something is disabled the motor so there’s no spark or fuel actually going into the engine. I pulled the ECU and it looked fine, battery wires look fine, fuses look fine, even replaced the ignition control module. The truck has been sitting for a long time so I’m wondering if this sounds like an immobilizer key failure or something. Seems like something small is causing it since it ran fine before It sat for for a few months (other than needing a tuneup).Any ideas? Going to try and get it towed to a dealership but not wanting to blow a ton of money on this one.

 

[rosswindows]

The power outlet was on all 97+ 4runners. The rear storage has two built-in strap downs in it and came empty, so don’t be surprised when you find it empty.

I'm not sure the part about the power outlet is correct. I have a '97 Limited, original interior trim panels and it does not have a power outlet in the back.

 

[4-Ripcord]

Interesting, must have been a 98' change like the steering wheel. Thanks for noticing

 

[Rcarp]

Also have a 97 limited. No power outlet.

 

[Mark_BC]

Yes, I have a 97 and a 98, and only the 98 has the power outlet. Very handy for a rear dashcam.

 

[Wywy99]

Can anyone explain the point of having a body lift and suspension lift? The 2000 4runner I am looking at has a 2 1/2 inch Old Man Emu suspension lift
1 1/2 inch Toytec body lift.