3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

[fourfive]

Thought I would chime in here because I have not seen much info on the 3" body lift for the 99-02's - especially the transfer case shifter.

I just finished the RB lift in my '99 Limited 4WD.

The first thing is that after doing many body lifts in other pickups including some Tacomas - the 3rd gen 4runner is absolutely the easiest job by far.

I had the whole truck back together in under 3hrs.

The one thing that I had to do after the fact was modify the transfer case shifter - it was too short and could not engage 4hi which of course meant you could also no engage 4lo.

My truck has the 4WD/AWD button on the side of the shifter too ( of course that worked fine).

What I had to do was remove the shifter which meant I needed to remove the auto shifter plate and stick to gain access.

I then removed the top half of the stick in a vice by twisting and pulling with pair of vice grips. I then welded a 3" extension on (a 7/16" bolt with the head cut off) then I just popped the top part back on. I welded it at an angle that had it leaning very slightly forward to avoid hitting the console when pulling the shifter back to 4hi which was the issue after the body lift - probably spent an hour doing that and that was the only real issue.

Appreciate the info on your experiences with the 3inch body lift. 4crawler has some very good info but always nice to hear individual experiences (problems, useful tips, etc). Not sure if you had any pics of the process or were planning to do any further write ups but would be cool to have a consolidated thread for body lifts b/c I've come across a lot of good info on BLs (varying in heights) but many of them were scattered throughout the forum which didn't make for the easiest read when trying to look into other 3rd gen'ers experiences...guess I'll go ahead and nominate you to start the official body lifts thread since you have more experience than me with it :thumb3: ...& if thats already been done then guess we can disregard that last comment.

Was wondering if you were planning on doing the 3 inch drivetrain lift to get the flat underbelly? (don't think I remember coming across any 3 inch body lifts where someone did the drivetrain lift aside from 4crawler)

If you removed the plastic piece on the rear bumper to access the spare tire, were you able to lower the spare with the factory supplied tool?

 

[angus]

Appreciate the info on your experiences with the 3inch body lift. 4crawler has some very good info but always nice to hear individual experiences (problems, useful tips, etc). Not sure if you had any pics of the process or were planning to do any further write ups but would be cool to have a consolidated thread for body lifts b/c I've come across a lot of good info on BLs (varying in heights) but many of them were scattered throughout the forum which didn't make for the easiest read when trying to look into other 3rd gen'ers experiences...guess I'll go ahead and nominate you to start the official body lifts thread since you have more experience than me with it :thumb3: ...& if thats already been done then guess we can disregard that last comment.

Was wondering if you were planning on doing the 3 inch drivetrain lift to get the flat underbelly? (don't think I remember coming across any 3 inch body lifts where someone did the drivetrain lift aside from 4crawler)

If you removed the plastic piece on the rear bumper to access the spare tire, were you able to lower the spare with the factory supplied tool?

I may get some pics together and post them, not sure if anyone else had posted an "official BL" thread yet - this forum is HUGE! I too looked for info on the BL and found almost everything - except the info on the shifter - but I sure had to search and search for it scattered around like you said.

I probably won't do a drivetrain lift, Right now I am going to be lowering my suspension because with my "99 tall" springs, the 3" spacer lift, I used gave me 3.75" lift in front which is too TALL - I don't like the CV angles or BJ angles.

I have a set of Tundra 5100 bilstein's that I will put in so I can get closer to 2.5" lift with the BL.

For my spare, I just removed the spare and the "winch" - when I go offroad I will carry the spare in back.

 

[D Farms]

I may get some pics together and post them, not sure if anyone else had posted an "official BL" thread yet - this forum is HUGE! I too looked for info on the BL and found almost everything - except the info on the shifter - but I sure had to search and search for it scattered around like you said.

I probably won't do a drivetrain lift, Right now I am going to be lowering my suspension because with my "99 tall" springs, the 3" spacer lift, I used gave me 3.75" lift in front which is too TALL - I don't like the CV angles or BJ angles.

I have a set of Tundra 5100 bilstein's that I will put in so I can get closer to 2.5" lift with the BL.

For my spare, I just removed the spare and the "winch" - when I go offroad I will carry the spare in back.

the tundra springs are stock height at the lowest setting.

heres some stuff you should put in the thread:

there are three types of lifts: body, suspension, and tire. tire lifts lift all the weight of the vehicle, suspension lifts are typically 90-70%, and body lifts are significantly less because only the body is lifted and the rest remains at the same height. therefore body lifts give the more lift while raising the center of gravity less. however a tire lift will give the most ground clearance since it raises everything. a suspension lift often gives you more wheel travel and raises everything except the solid axle or spindles. another often forgotten modification for more clearance is the bump stop. an extended bump stop will give you more clearance in a full flex situation, while sacrificing wheel travel. however with larger tires extended bump stops are required.

body lifts are the cheapest and least invasive lifts.
suspension lifts can be the most expensive but are often less than big tires, and also change the way the vehicle handles
bigger tires make getting over obstacles better and usually require a suspension lift or body lift, and are therefore usually a lot more money.

 

[angus]

the tundra springs are stock height at the lowest setting.

heres some stuff you should put in the thread:

there are three types of lifts: body, suspension, and tire. tire lifts lift all the weight of the vehicle, suspension lifts are typically 90-70%, and body lifts are significantly less because only the body is lifted and the rest remains at the same height. therefore body lifts give the more lift while raising the center of gravity less. however a tire lift will give the most ground clearance since it raises everything. a suspension lift often gives you more wheel travel and raises everything except the solid axle or spindles. another often forgotten modification for more clearance is the bump stop. an extended bump stop will give you more clearance in a full flex situation, while sacrificing wheel travel. however with larger tires extended bump stops are required.

body lifts are the cheapest and least invasive lifts.
suspension lifts can be the most expensive but are often less than big tires, and also change the way the vehicle handles
bigger tires make getting over obstacles better and usually require a suspension lift or body lift, and are therefore usually a lot more money.

Actually I have 99 tall springs and the tundra 5100 shocks, I plan to try out the different settings and see what I come up with - I want to end up with about 2.5" suspension and 3" BL for a total lift of 5.5".

I'd like to keep the suspension angles (ball joints, CV's etc.) at a level where I don't have to worry about things too much - plus at my 3.75" that I got out of the spacers, I could not get more than 1.3 degrees of caster and 0 degrees camber, I'd like to see 2+ degrees and .5 neg camber or so.

We shall see how the suspension goes once I install the 5100's.

As far as adding the info on other lifts, I think I'll keep the thread clean and only add the body lift info since it has been difficult to find the info on them - it seems there are a lot of threads on suspension lifts.

The info on the tundra shocks with 99 tall springs should be useful though.

 

[D Farms]

also rake makes caster negative.

 

[fourfive]

For my spare, I just removed the spare and the "winch" - when I go offroad I will carry the spare in back.

Do you keep your spare in the back for daily driving as well?

 

[angus]

Do you keep your spare in the back for daily driving as well?

Nope. Almost every car I own has no spare, some came that way, others I pulled the spare - I only take a spare if going on a road trip - otherwise I stick around town and can easily get a lift to grab a spare if I need it.

 

[T4R-noob]

ome 851 gives the rear 6'' of lift with no extra weight, will adjustable links be necessary for the extra lift (upper/lower links and panhard bar)? :bump:

 

[angus]

ome 851 gives the rear 6'' of lift with no extra weight, will adjustable links be necessary for the extra lift (upper/lower links and panhard bar)? :bump:

I would think so! While you might "get away" with it - it certainly won't be right.

 

[ragedyman]

98 runner shocks for 2-3" lift

I have a 98 runner and intend on a 2-3" lift probly ome springs. My ? is... do the stock size bilsteins have enough travel?

 

[Brique]

I have a 98 runner and intend on a 2-3" lift probly ome springs. My ? is... do the stock size bilsteins have enough travel?

My understanding is you'll want to get tundra bilsteins to have good travel match, although someone with first-hand knowledge may correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[scrapper]

Im a New member and new to lifting and everything suspension. Why would the lift be so much higher in the back? it also still looks level. i would understand maybe that much lift for the front to compensate for the weight of the engine.

I have the same question. Yet, I don't argue it since I found it to be true - my recent lift is just a tad higher in the front four days after the install. I don't know if things settle in properly over time but Monday I'm going to see what (if anything) I need to do to lift the ass a tad. I have no clue why. With the engine and my 6'3" 220 ass riding up front I'd expect just the opposite.

 

[FON4Runner]

Hey guys, new here and and just got my 98 4runner last week, and my problem is the rear shocks are blown I need to replace them asap but I will be getting lift springs in the next 6 months or so. Which is a good shock to get ....I got thru 11/31pages before I gave upon reading , eyes started to burn...lol

Thanks in advance

 

[Brique]

Hey guys, new here and and just got my 98 4runner last week, and my problem is the rear shocks are blown I need to replace them asap but I will be getting lift springs in the next 6 months or so. Which is a good shock to get ....I got thru 11/31pages before I gave upon reading , eyes started to burn...lol

Thanks in advance

Depends on what springs you're going to get. If it were me, I'd get oem tokico land cruiser shocks if I'm getting lc coils for the rear, or tundra Bilsteins if I'm planning on ome springs. The reasoning is matching a firmer shock (tokico) with a softer spring (lc coils) and vice versa.

 

[FON4Runner]

Thanks... I'm not planning on changing the coils just yet, hopefully they are still firm enough, was planning on changing all four shocks.... I was thinking of the 5100's so I could leave it stock, then maybe get some fj coils for the rear and then I could crank up the front shocks... If I'm right that should work,


and if I'm buying stock tundra shocks shouldn't I be able to get them at advance or auto zone?

 

[Brique]

I'm not aware that Bilstein 5100s are available at your local auto parts store. If you go with tundra 5100s in back, they'll need new bushings pressed in to fit our trucks. Not a big deal, but be aware of that. Wheelers off-road sells the Bilstein rears with the bushings already swapped for you and their price is pretty competitive.

 

[Peevedkitten]

Looking at different kits

Hello everyone, I really appreciate all the info in this thread. I read it front to back today and will probably read it several more times. I hope I'm not bringing it to far back from the dead.

I'm in the process of picking up a 3rd Gen 4runner and planning the build into an offroad/camping machine. My vehicle will not be a daily driver and will be used for 3 main purposes. I will be doing a lot of off roading in extremely rock/mountainous terrain, I will be camping with my wife either while offroading or going to music festivals and I will be taking this on fishing trips where I will be towing my trailer.

My trailer weighs under 1000 lbs. fully loaded and will probably be in the 500 lbs. range most of the time. We have plans to build a platform in the back to accommodate a bed platform with a roll out stove and storage underneath. The truck will be equipped with a front bumper and winch (probably the ARB Tacoma) as well as a rear bumper with tire carrier and gas carrier not to mention armor.

I'm looking to do a 3.5"-5" lift and am looking at kits from Toytec and Sonoransteel. I've got a fair budget and subscribe to the philosophy of buy once cry once.

For Sonoran these are the 2 options I'm looking at:
1996-2002 - System 1.2 Rebuildable 2.0 - $1,424.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
1996-2002 - System 1.2 Rebuildable 2.5 / Ext. Reservoir - $2,500.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

From Toytec I'm looking at the Ultimate Lift kit with the red 650lb. coils up front and the Toyota Superflex 024RBC 3.75" rear springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks.
Ultimate Lift Kit for '96-'02 4Runner

Questions:

1. Do I need to look at aftermarket control arms if I do a lift over 3"?
2. If I'm going over 3" are there larger Diff spacers I should be looking at to minimize CV wear?
3. Should I look at heavier duty CV's like the Lotus heavy duties or should I just buy some spare 'Yota CV joints/boots and carry them with me?
4. If anyone has done a Sonoran kit is the "extended" brake line an extender or an actual extended line?
5. It sounds like with the Sonoran kits I'll have a bit of rake, I think the idea there is that it should settle out when I load it with gear etc. Am I right in my understanding of how that should work?
6. (Oooh a tire question! nobody EVER asks these...) Will I need a body lift to fit 35" tires with a 3" lift? I don't mind rolling my fenders, this thing doesn't have to be pretty either.
7. Do I need to find an off road shop to have my alignments and suspension set up done? I want to do the installation myself to save some $$$ but this is my first build and I don't know a ton about dialing the suspension in.

 

[shootmymime]

Hello everyone, I really appreciate all the info in this thread. I read it front to back today and will probably read it several more times. I hope I'm not bringing it to far back from the dead.

I'm in the process of picking up a 3rd Gen 4runner and planning the build into an offroad/camping machine. My vehicle will not be a daily driver and will be used for 3 main purposes. I will be doing a lot of off roading in extremely rock/mountainous terrain, I will be camping with my wife either while offroading or going to music festivals and I will be taking this on fishing trips where I will be towing my trailer.

My trailer weighs under 1000 lbs. fully loaded and will probably be in the 500 lbs. range most of the time. We have plans to build a platform in the back to accommodate a bed platform with a roll out stove and storage underneath. The truck will be equipped with a front bumper and winch (probably the ARB Tacoma) as well as a rear bumper with tire carrier and gas carrier not to mention armor.

I'm looking to do a 3.5"-5" lift and am looking at kits from Toytec and Sonoransteel. I've got a fair budget and subscribe to the philosophy of buy once cry once.

For Sonoran these are the 2 options I'm looking at:
1996-2002 - System 1.2 Rebuildable 2.0 - $1,424.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts
1996-2002 - System 1.2 Rebuildable 2.5 / Ext. Reservoir - $2,500.00 : Sonoran Steel, Sonoran Steel Custom Metal Fabrication L.L.C. Custom Toyota Truck Parts

From Toytec I'm looking at the Ultimate Lift kit with the red 650lb. coils up front and the Toyota Superflex 024RBC 3.75" rear springs and Bilstein 5100 shocks.
Ultimate Lift Kit for '96-'02 4Runner

Questions:

1. Do I need to look at aftermarket control arms if I do a lift over 3"?
2. If I'm going over 3" are there larger Diff spacers I should be looking at to minimize CV wear?
3. Should I look at heavier duty CV's like the Lotus heavy duties or should I just buy some spare 'Yota CV joints/boots and carry them with me?
4. If anyone has done a Sonoran kit is the "extended" brake line an extender or an actual extended line?
5. It sounds like with the Sonoran kits I'll have a bit of rake, I think the idea there is that it should settle out when I load it with gear etc. Am I right in my understanding of how that should work?
6. (Oooh a tire question! nobody EVER asks these...) Will I need a body lift to fit 35" tires with a 3" lift? I don't mind rolling my fenders, this thing doesn't have to be pretty either.
7. Do I need to find an off road shop to have my alignments and suspension set up done? I want to do the installation myself to save some $$$ but this is my first build and I don't know a ton about dialing the suspension in.

Welcome.

Looks like your planning on dropping some coin pretty quick. I think you will enjoy piecing together a lift (get better components) for your money.

I don't think the cool over kits you mentioned are worth their money. Look into some Fox, King or sway a way coil overs that have a larger internal piston. Plus they are rebuild able in your garage.

Have you looking into upgrading the front brakes? Look into tundra brake upgrade.

For your questions.

1. for going over 3" you will need aftermarket control arms. The upper ball joint maxes out. But beyond 3" Is not normally what people do here for reliability reasons.

2?

3. For axles, just know that you are going to blow out your boots when ever you lift it. So for budget that. From the playing I've done (not hard rock crawling). The parts store axles have done me well. Life time warranty is nice.

4. Extended brake lines are fancy but not needed. Unless you have some brake fade or wanting to go to stainless braided. I'd say not really worth it. Or unless the factory ones are cracked bad.

5. I'm unsure about SS rear rake. But yes things settle when you load them. Remember that the whole truck will need a few weeks to settle after and adjustments are made.

6. Body lifts. (This is the main reason I'm commenting). To fit 35, it has been done with no body lift I believe. (Rockdog green 3rd gen) he spent a heck of a long time hammering and trimming tho.
So I manufacture body lifts for our trucks. 1/2" up to 2" To fit 35 most guys will do a 1.5" or a 2". That require no trimming to make the tires clear.
Take a look at my 3rd gen body lift thread in the classified suspension section.

7. You can do the suspension yourself. Alignment. Basically it needs to be done at a shop. Picking a shop can be difficult because your truck is lifted. But if you go with upper control arms and close or over 3" lift they should have a problem.

 

[Brique]

I just installed sonoran steel 7.2 and I'm very happy I bought the kit as opposed to piecing it together. I had planned to piece it together, as shootmymime suggests, and that's a valid route. After digging into what all comes with the ss kit, and the changes he's made to refine it over the years, I really think I got a better result than if I had picked out each individual part myself. That said, I don't have the experience and skill that some other folks here do.

My suggestion is to call Steve at sonoran and consult with him directly on your build. He was really generous with his time when I called and he gave me a lot of wisdom, not only on the suspension, but also on other aspects of my build plan.

 

[Peevedkitten]

Thank you both for your input. I definitely intend to do the Tundra brake upgrade as probably the first thing I do. Going is good but stopping is better. If I'm going over the "normal" 3" lift am I able to still use the 80 series LC coils in the rear? I believe I'll need more wraps to get more lift out of them. Are you of the opinion i can build my own kit cheaper or that I can get more bang for my buck that way?

As for the kit as a whole, I really like that it's all put together like that. It saves me from having to hunt and find every little thing. However I have around a year and a half to plan, buy and build my rig so I have the time to do my research. I figured if I'm dropping the cash for this kind of thing I want to get my money's worth out of it.

I will definitely look at your build and check it out. I've been reading a lot of build threads and trying to get ideas as to what I need to do.