3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

I'd still take it over a $600-$800 car payment for anything remotely close to reliability and capabilities of these rigs.

I work with guys that pay up to $1000 per month for a new truck.

Even if I could afford that, there's no way I'd willingly cough up that dough.

Budget for the common maintenance issues documented on this forum, and the 3rd gen will last another 20 years I'm sure.
 
Hello!!!

I'm looking for lower balljoints replacement on my 2001 LandCruiser-90 which sharing all parts except body itself with 4Runner-2001...

I'm happy owner of this car for last ~10 years and replaced several ballpoint's vendors. The last one was MOOG which survived x3 times more then anybody else including genuine Toyota parts.

But... last years i see multiple complains regarding reduced quality of MOOG parts, and looking for alternative...

I seen good feedbacks regarding MEVOTECH TTX, but looks like they have only upper ballpoints for 4runner 2001.... any other recommendations ?
 
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I'd still take it over a $600-$800 car payment for anything remotely close to reliability and capabilities of these rigs.

I work with guys that pay up to $1000 per month for a new truck.

Even if I could afford that, there's no way I'd willingly cough up that dough.

Budget for the common maintenance issues documented on this forum, and the 3rd gen will last another 20 years I'm sure.


$1000 bucks, that’s it? I know several guys with 1400$ payments…… frickin lunacy is what it is.

The worst part is that it seems with all of the new iron, doesn’t matter if it’s car, truck, diesel or gas, you seem to have to have a good relationship with your dealership service manager. Even my late model tundra has had to go in for several dumb things the last two years. Good luck with the newer diesels, it’s check engine lights galore. My neighbors 15 power stroke, and my brothers 19 power stroke both have issues. The new rams are getting a recall on the cp4 right now….that’s awesome.

My perception is skewed though. I’ve been broke before, (which sucked immensely I might add) so now after years of angst and financial ptsd I live basically debt free and go have fun and experiences with my money while everyone I know had new rides and no money to go anywhere.

Sure, I’m going to spend my entire weekend grease balling it to refresh, reseal the front and top of my 5vz. Still much much much cheaper than the the alternative, which isn’t even as good.

I had a moment of weakness that lasted about 5 minutes this week. I thought to myself what the hell am I doing, I don’t have time for projects/rebuilds like this, jumped on the jeep website and priced out a new Rubicon extreme, all options on cloth seats was like $65,000…… hahaha…… well…… found a local 13’ rubicon also, 230k miles and $24k dollars……….what the flying…………F that! Back to sinking 5k into a 2k 4runner and mobbing 55mph through public lands it is!
 
Hello!!!

I'm looking for lower balljoints replacement on my 2001 LandCruiser-90 which sharing all parts except body itself with 4Runner-2001...

I'm happy owner of this car for last ~10 years and replaced several ballpoint's vendors. The last one was MOOG which survived x3 times more then anybody else including genuine Toyota parts.

But... last years i see multiple complains regarding reduced quality of MOOG parts, and looking for alternative...

I seen good feedbacks regarding MEVOTECH TTX, but looks like they have only upper ballpoints for 4runner 2001.... any other recommendations ?


Toyota ball joints. Period. Unless you’re going to a long travel set up, there just isn’t any point in going after market here.
 
Lift question

I just bought a 2000 4-runner looking to put a small lift but dont want to effect the smooth ride i was thinking going with the 2.5 lift coil for the front and 2” lift coil in the back. What are your thoughts on that? And would i need to replace the stock shocks if i done that? Im new to all this so anything would help thanks!
 
I just bought a 2000 4-runner looking to put a small lift but dont want to effect the smooth ride i was thinking going with the 2.5 lift coil for the front and 2” lift coil in the back. What are your thoughts on that? And would i need to replace the stock shocks if i done that? Im new to all this so anything would help thanks!

This is a nice place to start some research: Absalom's Cookie Cutter 4runner Builds - New and Updated!

You would need new shocks if you were doing a lift. New bushings would go a long way in improving ride quality.

Sounds like you might want something kinda similar to what I did? ~1.5"/2" lift, new bushings, etc. There's a link to my build thread in my signature.
 
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Thanks for the help im wanting a small cheap lift but want a good ride still haha

Understood. But I have to mention as far as budgets go, that before any lift, you should seriously consider replacing your lower ball joints (and LBJ bolts) with OEM parts, and replace your radiator (or bypass with external ATF cooler) if you have an automatic. Also, you can expect your CV joint boots to tear and need rebuilding/replacing as soon as you do a lift. So just keep these items in mind when planning/budgeting your lift.

IMO, the lift prerequisites:
1. OEM Lower Ball Joints and bolts
2. If automatic transmission, then new Radiator (or bypass with external ATF cooler)
3. New or rebooted CV axles

Also, I always recommend going through this thread before making any big plans: 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum

Best of luck!
 
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Ok will do i know al the ball joints and tire rods and radiator was actually just replaced so hopefully i wont have to do all that but ill look into it. Thanks for the help. Also whats a good inexpensive winch bumper to buy for one. Ive had an arb and loved it but dont really wanta spend 1500$ at the moment haha
 
Ok will do i know al the ball joints and tire rods and radiator was actually just replaced so hopefully i wont have to do all that but ill look into it. Thanks for the help. Also whats a good inexpensive winch bumper to buy for one. Ive had an arb and loved it but dont really wanta spend 1500$ at the moment haha

Good AND inexpensive?! I'll probably settle for pretty good and pretty expensive since welding isn't an option for me currently.......sigh.

I'd say look for a BF sale starting tomorrow and use Affirm or PP Pay-in-4 to lessen the blow if money is an issue. For me, and especially this time of year - IT'S AN ISSUE.
 
I sent you a pm, but curious how you are liking this combo

1st time for pm notification to show @ login don't know why.

Yes it worth the extra over 5100's if you got it not a night/day difference it a good setup before jumping into King Icon price.
Added 3/8" top hat spacer 3/4" lift to eliminate a every now and then tire scrub. Spring perch setting 4 & 3 preload sweet spot for my bumper and winch.
Rear OME 890 & 5160's sweet spot is 100 lb +- extra weight if factory bumper. 880 lb of Sakrete 2-3" tire-flair clearance road fine.
Swaybars limit the travel available - Swaybar Q/D's.
 
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So how do i increase load capacity without lifting?

im looking to haul a small trailer and some other gear via a roof rack and the cargo hold. but i dont want to lift my truck. been looking at this kit...

Bilstein/OME Stage 2 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia

but its saying it will lift the truck by 3 inches, which i do not want.

I'm currently sitting on the factory suspension, 265\75r16 coopers.

1997 sr5 4x4 automatic 3.4L
 
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im looking to haul a small trailer and some other gear via a roof rack and the cargo hold. but i dont want to lift my truck. been looking at this kit...

Bilstein/OME Stage 2 Lift Kit - 3rd Gen 4Runner (1996-02) - YotaMafia

but its saying it will lift the truck by 3 inches, which i do not want.

I'm currently sitting on the factory suspension, 265\75r16 coopers.

1997 sr5 4x4 automatic 3.4L

How much extra weight are you lookin to haul exactly and how often? If I recall we're good for 5000lbs max, basically the weight of another 4Runner on a trailer with a little wiggle room. Though on a 20 year old, naturally aspirated V6 it might be a little slow going these days
 
I would say at max 6000 pounds. I plan on using my T4R to haul light cars on occasion.

Im planning a full motor rebuild to help with the speed while hauling. But as of now im working on the suspension.

Currently if i put 300lbs in the back it sits fully compressed. So im not sure what its supposed to be really.
 
I would say at max 6000 pounds. I plan on using my T4R to haul light cars on occasion.

Im planning a full motor rebuild to help with the speed while hauling. But as of now im working on the suspension.

Currently if i put 300lbs in the back it sits fully compressed. So im not sure what its supposed to be really.

Towing rating for our 4Runner's is 5000lbs. The majority of the trailer hitch receivers (the part attached to the vehicle frame) will be rated for 5000lbs gross trailer weight and 500 lbs tongue weight. You would probably benefit greatly from adding some rear spring helper air bags that you can inflate under load. Otherwise you will need a very stiff or very tall rear spring in order to not be on the rear bump stops when you're loaded down. If you have an automatic I would also highly recommend adding a transmission fluid cooler either inline or bypassing the transmission cooler in the radiator.
 
I would say at max 6000 pounds. I plan on using my T4R to haul light cars on occasion.

Im planning a full motor rebuild to help with the speed while hauling. But as of now im working on the suspension.

Currently if i put 300lbs in the back it sits fully compressed. So im not sure what its supposed to be really.

Pulling 6000# is one thing. Stopping is another, and certainly more important. Go through your brakes 100% and maybe consider the Tundra brake upgrade.

Also, these:Airlift 1000 air bags
 
I would go the full nine and look into replacing the master/booster as well while you're at it.
Fully floating the axles would probably be smart too, with a regearing to match.
Air bags will definitely be your friend but in terms of coils I'm thinking you'll left with having to chop some heavy duty linear-rate ones to size as I'm not aware of anyone that makes HD, zero lift springs - nor would I exactly expect anyone to. But I've been wrong more than once on here.
Keeping it at stock height is really gonna be a challenge for you here so I would think about giving a little wiggle room. Another idea would be to swap over a 2-link axle, presumably from another Toyota. You may or may not get some helpful trackwidth doing this too.
Really your better bet would be investing in a toy hauler or even just a basic full sized truck but I assume that's not entirely an option, otherwise you'd do it and save the time and effort. Unless this is all just a cool project :thumb3:
 
I would HIGHLY advise anyone wanting to mod and enjoy their 4runner to DO ALL THE MAINTENANCE FIRST before lifting it or wheeling it. These trucks are awesome, look awesome and can do great things, but not when they break.
Keep them maintained and serviced and they will go to 500K

@mstud, is this not a sticky anymore?
 
Pulling 6000# is one thing. Stopping is another, and certainly more important. Go through your brakes 100% and maybe consider the Tundra brake upgrade.

Also, these:Airlift 1000 air bags


Tow 6k…….. with a 3rd gen….wat?……..

Trigger warning, This is going to sound super preachy. I’m late to the thread party, but Just hear me out. I’ve done a lot of towing for my own business, for play, and as a professional truck driver in my past life.

Sounds like you need the right tool for the job. An in town putt putt is one thing, but if your actually doing a real tow, I think your setting yourself up for failure, in a bad way.

The top tow rating is what 5k lbs? Your going to have a tandem trailer with forward position axles to keep the tongue weight in check. Boats fit in that category too from the rear bias. But a transporter? Your going to have a real challenge not blowing past the 500lb mark on tongue weight. Timbrens or air bags can solve your ride height issue, but I doubt the wheel bearings live very long. You may even need an anti sway hitch to tame how unstable it might get. As light at 3rd gens are it’s going to feel like a rodeo with any real speed.

RVs aren’t the same as a flat deck car hauler, not even close, but for my 8-9k lb rv setup i run a 1 ton pickup, air bags, the biggest equalizer hitch you can buy without getting weird about it, and a Hellwig sway bar. Maybe it’s over kill, but it’s comfortable to drive, and extremely in control. I don’t have to play super trucker anymore. Did plenty of that in the past.

I say this as an unrestricted CDL holder and a guy who used to run a 129k permit, I t’s not the moving it that’s the problem. The 4runner isn’t heavy enough for that job, nor is the suspension calibration even in the kinda sorta category for stability. It’s just the wrong tool. 4Runners are awesome, but they have limits.

Keep the 4runner for whatever. Get an appropriate sized vehicle for the towing task. You don’t even have to spend a lot of money. Old 90s and early 2000 suburbans are a dime a dozen for cheap and would do the job your wanting so much better. That’s not even getting into transmissions and if that rear axle can live. Plus the right vehicle will do it safely. The ratings honestly are there for a reason.
 

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