3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

[jrm]

Another cool way to consider would be 99s /tokico shocks all round with ~1.0" lift, plenty of clearance for 265/75 16s and a comfortable ride. If you find the rear sagging over time you can add trim spacers.

 

[Speedy]

Hard to believe it's already been 9 years since I did the lift/tires/wheels.
Speedy's Lift Install with "How To" Video - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum and time to do it again I guess.

I want my 2002 to look like this, what do I need to make it happen sans bumper? Anyone here's ride by chance? Description says 3" Bilstein lift is all that's on it with no cutting or rubbing, same wheels as mine but those are ET -10 and mine are ET 0. Says the tires are 285/75R16.
1996 Toyota 4Runner Wheel Offset Slightly Aggressive Suspension Lift 3" | 1930973 | TrailBuilt Off-Road

I've had this truck so long I've forgotten a lot it seems :/ Current 265/75R16 Revo 2s served me well but are bald at 60K miles. Testing fitting a 285/75R16 at Discount Tire showed I'll kiss the back of the wheel well at the pinch weld and hit the fender flare on the corner up front. They recommended the Nitto Ridge Grapler for a replacement tire.

Current lift is the Tundra Bilstein 5100 and TRD Tundra coil up front. With the coil on the bottom shock perch I'm at 1.5" of lift now measuring from center of the wheel cap to the fender flare is 21.5" (the springs have obviously settled over the past 9 years and 60K miles). Rear sits 3/4" higher so just a hint of rake.

I thought I could just move the spring up one perch and get .66" (or .66" x 2?) more lift but looking at Toytec lift info they say using lift springs on anything other than bottom perch on a 5100 can cause damage? So then I need a different spring to get another inch or so lift?

What say you? What do I need to fit those 285/75R16 Nitto Ridge Grapplers? I don't wheel much if that matters, I just want it to look mean and like tinkering with it. 4.56 or 4.88 gears may be next we'll see how the supercharged power plant deals with the bigger meats.

 

[octanejunkie]

Hard to believe it's already been 9 years since I did the lift/tires/wheels.
Speedy's Lift Install with "How To" Video - Toyota 4Runner Forum - Largest 4Runner Forum and time to do it again I guess.

I want my 2002 to look like this, what do I need to make it happen sans bumper? Anyone here's ride by chance? Description says 3" Bilstein lift is all that's on it with no cutting or rubbing, same wheels as mine but those are ET -10 and mine are ET 0. Says the tires are 285/75R16.
1996 Toyota 4Runner Wheel Offset Slightly Aggressive Suspension Lift 3" | 1930973 | TrailBuilt Off-Road

I've had this truck so long I've forgotten a lot it seems :/ Current 265/75R16 Revo 2s served me well but are bald at 60K miles. Testing fitting a 285/75R16 at Discount Tire showed I'll kiss the back of the wheel well at the pinch weld and hit the fender flare on the corner up front. They recommended the Nitto Ridge Grapler for a replacement tire.

Current lift is the Tundra Bilstein 5100 and TRD Tundra coil up front. With the coil on the bottom shock perch I'm at 1.5" of lift now measuring from center of the wheel cap to the fender flare is 21.5" (the springs have obviously settled over the past 9 years and 60K miles). Rear sits 3/4" higher so just a hint of rake.

I thought I could just move the spring up one perch and get .66" (or .66" x 2?) more lift but looking at Toytec lift info they say using lift springs on anything other than bottom perch on a 5100 can cause damage? So then I need a different spring to get another inch or so lift?

What say you? What do I need to fit those 285/75R16 Nitto Ridge Grapplers? I don't wheel much if that matters, I just want it to look mean and like tinkering with it. 4.56 or 4.88 gears may be next we'll see how the supercharged power plant deals with the bigger meats.

Looks good, not my truck.

I have a very similar build linked in my sig. I have roughly 3" of lift (23.5 up front 24.5 rear fender to hub) on tundra billies with 620# Eibach coils (from Toytec) and 4xi bumpers front and rear. No rubbing or scrubbing on 33s

 

[Speedy]

Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] I just finished catching up on your build thread last week, congrats on the 5spd.

That gives me some idea although your setup is considerably more narrow than what I'm looking at. How do those load range E tires ride? That's my biggest concern, the setup now rides phenomenal. I had a 1997 Tacoma I put a 4" pro comp lift on with some 33x12.50 BFG MTs on 15x10 Centerline wheels and it rode terrible. Would literally jar the ashtray out on the highway but that coulda been the lift, who knows. That was almost 30 years ago and I'm sure things have come a long way.

Quiet thread, I expected more to chime in. Maybe these trucks are just getting too old anymore. I hate this part of the decision process. If you make a mistake on choices it's can be an expensive one and it feels like there are 100s of options and not much of a consensus.

I'm tempted to try simply moving the spring up one perch on the shock. I think [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] did that, I'll have to ping him. If it sucks I'm not opposed to snagging a nice coil over or something but don't wanna just throw money at it if I don't have to.

 

[Bad Luck]

Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] I just finished catching up on your build thread last week, congrats on the 5spd.

That gives me some idea although your setup is considerably more narrow than what I'm looking at. How do those load range E tires ride? That's my biggest concern, the setup now rides phenomenal. I had a 1997 Tacoma I put a 4" pro comp lift on with some 33x12.50 BFG MTs on 15x10 Centerline wheels and it rode terrible. Would literally jar the ashtray out on the highway but that coulda been the lift, who knows. That was almost 30 years ago and I'm sure things have come a long way.

Quiet thread, I expected more to chime in. Maybe these trucks are just getting too old anymore. I hate this part of the decision process. If you make a mistake on choices it's can be an expensive one and it feels like there are 100s of options and not much of a consensus.

I'm tempted to try simply moving the spring up one perch on the shock. I think [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] did that, I'll have to ping him. If it sucks I'm not opposed to snagging a nice coil over or something but don't wanna just throw money at it if I don't have to.

You can try moving it up a notch or a spacer between the frame and top hat mount would work too. Keep in mind there is a 2:1 gain ratio when adjusting the front suspension. My build progress is so slow I've just accepted that I'll cross that bridge when I get there lol

 

[Speedy]

Thanks for confirming my thought. So if it's .66" per notch then that's a 1.32" increase and would put me at 2.82" of lift. Almost 3" which most say is good for 285/75R16s on a 16x8 4.5" BS wheel. Worth a shot I guess before going further. I'd be just a tick higher in the front than the back, but doubt it'd be noticeable and I don't like the rake anyway.

 

[octanejunkie]

Thanks [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] I just finished catching up on your build thread last week, congrats on the 5spd.

That gives me some idea although your setup is considerably more narrow than what I'm looking at. How do those load range E tires ride? That's my biggest concern, the setup now rides phenomenal. I had a 1997 Tacoma I put a 4" pro comp lift on with some 33x12.50 BFG MTs on 15x10 Centerline wheels and it rode terrible. Would literally jar the ashtray out on the highway but that coulda been the lift, who knows. That was almost 30 years ago and I'm sure things have come a long way.

Quiet thread, I expected more to chime in. Maybe these trucks are just getting too old anymore. I hate this part of the decision process. If you make a mistake on choices it's can be an expensive one and it feels like there are 100s of options and not much of a consensus.

I'm tempted to try simply moving the spring up one perch on the shock. I think [MENTION=142122]96RedRunner[/MENTION] did that, I'll have to ping him. If it sucks I'm not opposed to snagging a nice coil over or something but don't wanna just throw money at it if I don't have to.

Thanks for the kind words, this forum has definitely taken a back seat to social media and other forms of group think/interaction. Sadly I don't see many well-informed owners out in the wild.

With it's current setup I think the truck rides nicely for what it is. I am on the second notch of my tundra billies, I don't think this has compromised either upwards or downwards travel or droop, much, if at all.

That being said, the suspension definitely needs to be tuned some and I will be replacing the front shocks and struts with Icon coilovers with adjustable reservoirs. I just added 2861 rear coils and are waiting for those to settle in before I revisit rear suspension. This truck is specifically being set up for off-road performance; road manners are secondary, for me.

The advice I often give folks is to figure out how you will use the vehicle, and what you want out of it before dumping money into it. You can't get 1 vehicle to do everything well, but if you understand what it can and cannot do you can maximize your experience.

Hope that helps.

 

[Speedy]

Well, I've had this thing 20 years. It's becoming a classic so it's off road days other than some camping trails/fire roads are at an end. Mine's primarily just a fun driver. I can't say "daily" any more since I've been working from home the last 3 years.

Were you able to confirm the perch settings on the 5100s? Everything I've found gives a straight measurement and doesn't "double" it. So perch 1 is well, 0, perch 2 is .66", etc. If that's the case I'll need to go to perch 3. I don't wanna have to disassemble these things twice if I can help it.

This is specific to the Tundra 5100s which I have.

Bilstein 5100 0-2.5" lift front, 0-2" rear shocks 00-'06 Toyota Tundra

 

[Speedy]

Think I answered my own question. Found a couple 10 year old threads where someone tried to figure this out and the answer was "it depends". Seems these trucks react differently depending on year/make/model.

Mine started off at 19.5" from hub center to middle bottom of the flare bone stock and is 21.5" now. I thought it had lost .5" due to settling but nope, just variance in mine vs others.

I'll do some noodling but I remember that strut being a big PITA to get reinstalled due to the added height. My lower ball joints are due so may be a good time to fool with it or just bite the bullet and get some nice adjustable coilovers like Icons so I can dial it in exactly.

My CV boots never leaked even with 9 years and 100K miles on them when I first put the lift on. They're 21 years old now and 155K miles, I bet they leak this time!

 

[Zhehan]

If you have the Tundra 5100's and the Tundra TRD Coils, putting the circlip on the 2nd perch will give you 2" of lift in the front. That's where mine have been for 13+ years, no sagging.

 

[Speedy]

If you have the Tundra 5100's and the Tundra TRD Coils, putting the circlip on the 2nd perch will give you 2" of lift in the front. That's where mine have been for 13+ years, no sagging.

On my 2002 SR5 auto 4x4 the Tundra 5100s and Tundra TRD Coils gave me 2" of lift on the first perch. Been like that for almost 10 years. I need another inch for 285/75R16s.

This sorta highlights the problem I think. Everyone seems to get different results. Not a ton, like .5" to 1" but when trying to fit tires that's make it or break it measurements.

 

[phattyduck]

This sorta highlights the problem I think. Everyone seems to get different results. Not a ton, like .5" to 1" but when trying to fit tires that's make it or break it measurements.

There's the stock height issue (varying stock heights for different years), there's the shock height question (D558 Tacoma vs. Tundra vs. 4Runner 5100s perches are cut at different heights), there's spring height differences ("TRD Tundra" has many different options), and theirs fender height differences (flare type will affect measurements).

Easy, eh?

-Charlie

 

[Speedy]

There's the stock height issue (varying stock heights for different years), there's the shock height question (D558 Tacoma vs. Tundra vs. 4Runner 5100s perches are cut at different heights), there's spring height differences ("TRD Tundra" has many different options), and theirs fender height differences (flare type will affect measurements).

Easy, eh?

-Charlie

And people saying the lift is double what the perch settings are as documented by Bilstein. From what I've read on the Tacoma forum that's not true. It's about .66" per perch.

Are there different options for TRD Tundra coils? I thought they were all 48131-AF090 and 48131-AF100.

 

[Bad Luck]

And people saying the lift is double what the perch settings are as documented by Bilstein. From what I've read on the Tacoma forum that's not true. It's about .66" per perch.

Are there different options for TRD Tundra coils? I thought they were all 48131-AF090 and 48131-AF100.

What I said was that any change made will have a 2:1 ratio effect. A 1/4" spacer in the front will lift the front 1/2". I have no idea what the distance between clip settings are for bilstein shocks. It's equally as likely that Bilstein listed what the net change will be rather than the clip setting distances.

TRD Tundra's have different coil numbers for extended cab and crew cab. I don't think they ever made a single cab TRD Tundra, but if they did I would expect that to be a different part number too.

 

[Zhehan]

On my 2002 SR5 auto 4x4 the Tundra 5100s and Tundra TRD Coils gave me 2" of lift on the first perch. Been like that for almost 10 years. I need another inch for 285/75R16s.

This sorta highlights the problem I think. Everyone seems to get different results. Not a ton, like .5" to 1" but when trying to fit tires that's make it or break it measurements.

As others have mentioned, your static, factory ride height was lower than other years. According to Steve Schaefer of Sonoran Steel, who pioneered this setup, the correct perch for those coils and the Bilstein 5100s he originally used, and it should be good for yours as well, is the 2nd perch. Your 4Runner will gain about 2.5" or so and be where you should be with that setup to fit 285s.

Hops this helps.

EDIT: While you're at it, you really should consider some UCAs to go with your lift. they make a huge, positive difference in ride quality and handling. I went with the JBA STD High Caster arms. $518/shipped.

 

[phattyduck]

And people saying the lift is double what the perch settings are as documented by Bilstein. From what I've read on the Tacoma forum that's not true. It's about .66" per perch.

Are there different options for TRD Tundra coils? I thought they were all 48131-AF090 and 48131-AF100.

Bilstein will be quoting wheel travel numbers. The snap ring locations are approximately half that distance apart due to motion ratio.

There is a 'default' TRD Tundra coil that is best for other applications (hopefully the PNs you quoted - I don't have notes on that), but there were lots of different OEM part numbers that people could have grabbed used. 4th gen / FJ / 5th gen front springs are another good 'low lift' spring option - about 1" lift and slightly stiffer than OEM, but not by much.

-Charlie

 

[Speedy]

What I said was that any change made will have a 2:1 ratio effect. A 1/4" spacer in the front will lift the front 1/2". I have no idea what the distance between clip settings are for bilstein shocks. It's equally as likely that Bilstein listed what the net change will be rather than the clip setting distances.

TRD Tundra's have different coil numbers for extended cab and crew cab. I don't think they ever made a single cab TRD Tundra, but if they did I would expect that to be a different part number too.

Unless the 4Runner is different from a Tacoma, I'm not sure that 2:1 ratio is correct for the shock perch changes. Best I can tell the distance between perches is about .5" and most here didn't take good measurements from what I can find but the Tacoma guys were pretty obsessive about it. They weren't doubling lift height on each perch. If it does indeed double, then I'll gain a full inch of lift by going up one perch which doesn't line up with Zehan's comment below either. Maybe putting a spacer up top is different as that does seem to be 2:1. If that lower shock bolt wasn't such a PITA I'd just test it to be honest. May end up having to do that anyway.

As others have mentioned, your static, factory ride height was lower than other years. According to Steve Schaefer of Sonoran Steel, who pioneered this setup, the correct perch for those coils and the Bilstein 5100s he originally used, and it should be good for yours as well, is the 2nd perch. Your 4Runner will gain about 2.5" or so and be where you should be with that setup to fit 285s.

Hops this helps.

EDIT: While you're at it, you really should consider some UCAs to go with your lift. they make a huge, positive difference in ride quality and handling. I went with the JBA STD High Caster arms. $518/shipped.

My static factory ride height (at 100K miles) was 19.5" front and 20" rear (I had to go watch my video to remember lol). It's now 21.5" front and 22.25" rear measured from center of hub to center of the wheel flare.

I "think" I'm gonna need an inch of lift to clear the 285s based on test fit at Discount Tire. Good to know I can bump to the 2nd perch with SS intending that. I can't remember why I put them on the bottom perch, maybe back then I only wanted 2" but I need more now. If 2nd perch gives me another .5" then the 3rd perch would have me right at 1" that I think I need. Just wonder if it'll ride harsh. Maybe not since it's a Tundra shock and coil designed to work together.

I'm going to look in to some UCAs. Thanks for the tip on that.

Bilstein will be quoting wheel travel numbers. The snap ring locations are approximately half that distance apart due to motion ratio.

There is a 'default' TRD Tundra coil that is best for other applications (hopefully the PNs you quoted - I don't have notes on that), but there were lots of different OEM part numbers that people could have grabbed used. 4th gen / FJ / 5th gen front springs are another good 'low lift' spring option - about 1" lift and slightly stiffer than OEM, but not by much.

-Charlie

This is the documentation for the Bilsteins that I've seen. Notice they say "front lift height"....not sure on the wheel travel deal?

Just trying to keep the info straight for future readers since I've been having to read all over the place for a couple days to get this. I vaguely remember doing this 10 years ago lol.

 

[Zhehan]

Unless the 4Runner is different from a Tacoma, I'm not sure that 2:1 ratio is correct for the shock perch changes. Best I can tell the distance between perches is about .5" and most here didn't take good measurements from what I can find but the Tacoma guys were pretty obsessive about it. They weren't doubling lift height on each perch. If it does indeed double, then I'll gain a full inch of lift by going up one perch which doesn't line up with Zehan's comment below either. Maybe putting a spacer up top is different as that does seem to be 2:1. If that lower shock bolt wasn't such a PITA I'd just test it to be honest. May end up having to do that anyway.



My static factory ride height (at 100K miles) was 19.5" front and 20" rear (I had to go watch my video to remember lol). It's now 21.5" front and 22.25" rear measured from center of hub to center of the wheel flare.

I "think" I'm gonna need an inch of lift to clear the 285s based on test fit at Discount Tire. Good to know I can bump to the 2nd perch with SS intending that. I can't remember why I put them on the bottom perch, maybe back then I only wanted 2" but I need more now. If 2nd perch gives me another .5" then the 3rd perch would have me right at 1" that I think I need. Just wonder if it'll ride harsh. Maybe not since it's a Tundra shock and coil designed to work together.

I'm going to look in to some UCAs. Thanks for the tip on that.



This is the documentation for the Bilsteins that I've seen. Notice they say "front lift height"....not sure on the wheel travel deal?

Just trying to keep the info straight for future readers since I've been having to read all over the place for a couple days to get this. I vaguely remember doing this 10 years ago lol.

I'm at 22.5" in front and I'm on the 2nd perch. The stated lift heights as described by Bilstein are for stock springs. I clear 285s. With the JBA UCAs, a proper alignment, some pinch weld pounding and wheel well lining trimming, there is no rubbing with my 16x8" wheels. I don't know how it would go with the stock wheels as I haven't had those in 20 years.

Don't add a top-out spacer to the Bilstein strut assembly. They are already 1" longer than stock. You'll destroy your CVs. There are quite a few people who have ran the TRD Tundra springs on the 3rd perch. You give up some down travel, but it's still better than it would be with a stock length strut. I can't comment on ride quality on the 3rd perch as I've never done it. I'd strongly suggest trying the 2nd perch first.

Hope this helps and good luck!

EDIT: Based on the color codes you posted for the TRD Coils you have, those are the correct coils.

 

[Speedy]

I'm at 22.5" in front and I'm on the 2nd perch. The stated lift heights as described by Bilstein are for stock springs. I clear 285s. With the JBA UCAs, a proper alignment, some pinch weld pounding and wheel well lining trimming, there is no rubbing with my 16x8" wheels. I don't know how it would go with the stock wheels as I haven't had those in 20 years.

Don't add a top-out spacer to the Bilstein strut assembly. They are already 1" longer than stock. You'll destroy your CVs. There are quite a few people who have ran the TRD Tundra springs on the 3rd perch. You give up some down travel, but it's still better than it would be with a stock length strut. I can't comment on ride quality on the 3rd perch as I've never done it. I'd strongly suggest trying the 2nd perch first.

Hope this helps and good luck!

EDIT: Based on the color codes you posted for the TRD Coils you have, those are the correct coils.

Thanks for the info. That's where I get crossed up. With the Tundra 5100s I have and the Tundra coils, I have a stock suspension for all intent and purpose, albeit it's a Tundra suspension on a 4Runner. So stated lift heights should be as expected? Maybe I'm completely missing something.

I have some custom mud guards on mine that I'm trying to avoid removing. This precludes me from pounding pinch welds etc (I think) which is why I'm hoping an add'l 1" will clear without any of that. Maybe a hair trim on the front flare but that's no big deal I'm a surgeon with a dremel. If I get one more inch of lift I'll be at exactly 3".

Do you know the specs on your 16x8s? Mine are 0 offset and 4.5" backspace.

 

[Zhehan]

Thanks for the info. That's where I get crossed up. With the Tundra 5100s I have and the Tundra coils, I have a stock suspension for all intent and purpose, albeit it's a Tundra suspension on a 4Runner. So stated lift heights should be as expected? Maybe I'm completely missing something.

I have some custom mud guards on mine that I'm trying to avoid removing. This precludes me from pounding pinch welds etc (I think) which is why I'm hoping an add'l 1" will clear without any of that. Maybe a hair trim on the front flare but that's no big deal I'm a surgeon with a dremel. If I get one more inch of lift I'll be at exactly 3".

Do you know the specs on your 16x8s? Mine are 0 offset and 4.5" backspace.

The stated lift heights are for the stock coils on the stock vehicle. The TRD Tundra coils/5100 combo on the 3rd Gen T4R is a lifted suspension option.

I have the same offset and backspace on my wheels.

Even with the stock UCAs, clearance isn't bad, but it still requires pinch weld and fender liner modification to clear 285s.. A 1" body lift in combination with a 2" suspension lift would negate the need to trim or pound. Corrected UCAs allow for more adjustment of the Alignment Cams to move the wheel further forward which improves tire clearance.