shadow247
New member
I'm running the 881/Nitrocharger on the front. It works a lot better than the KYB I had on before. That is a decent price for assembled front coils.
3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's
- Thread starter steezemcqueen
- Start date
I'm running the 881/Nitrocharger on the front. It works a lot better than the KYB I had on before. That is a decent price for assembled front coils.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Yeah my reference point was a pretty crappy suspension so anything is better than that. I don't have to have a stock landcruiser boat feel to be happy. Plus firmer suspension means less body roll and better off camber performance. I understand where people want a totally plush feel though and while I wouldn't dislike that I'm sure I would have to spend quite a bit more to acheive that. My current setup should be quite durable and is very low maintenance compared to getting a rebuildable. Maybe I'll go fancy down the road but I can't imagine I will absolutely hate this setup offroad and I definitely like it on road.
Speedy
Member
Adjusted my Bilstein 5100/Tundra TRD Coil suspension this week. Even with the lower ball joints removed it was still a major PITA to get the strut back in the truck. I gotta be missing something.
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As suspected, the spaces between the perches measured 10mm.
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As suspected, the spaces between the perches measured 10mm.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Know the pain, that's why I started assembling them on vehicle.
Never have to use spring compressor again works for 6112's also.
Speedy
Member
Removing, disassembling, and reassembling the strut was pretty easy. I used the threaded death rods and an impact gun (shhhhh don't tell) and that all took about 30 minutes per strut no biggie.
My fight began when I tried to put the strut assembly back in the truck. Set the top of the strut in the bucket, started the 3 nuts that hold it but left them loose. Getting the lower shock bolt to line up with the lower A arm was the problem. The shock eye was about an inch or inch and a half lower than where it needed to mount in the A arm. Getting the arm moved low enough to get the bolt started was a battle AND I had the lower ball joints disconnected.
What am I missing? Is it just gonna be a fight due to the lifted height of the strut assembly or? If it's always this much of a PITA I'll drop it at at 4x4 shop if I ever have to do something like that again. Just not worth the time.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION]
LCA needs the ability to hang straight down nothing connected to it except cam bolts.
LCA needs the ability to hang straight down nothing connected to it except cam bolts.
I have never had that much of an issue with the installation. I use a pry bar or LARGE flat blade screwdriver to lift the bottom of the strut into position so I can get the bolt through holes in the LCA mount and the eyelet of the bushing. You generally need to pry it into position, but beyond that it shouldn't be a struggle. Make sure the tang at the bottom of the spring is on the outside of the strut.
My .02
EDIT: I have never disconnected the lower ball joint to do this job, either.
Rushthezeppelin
New member
Did you disconnect your sway bar?
Speedy
Member
My LCA didn't hang down even with everything disconnected. I didn't loosen the LCA bolts so maybe that's the trick? I thought those were cam bolts for the alignment but maybe I missed that.
Yes sway bar was disconnected.
phattyduck
Elite Member
They are, but all pivot bolts should be loose if you are changing ride height, then re-torqued when at the new ride height. You want the bushings at 'rest' at ride height.
If you aren't changing ride height, a well placed pry bar (above upper arm, then below the pivot sleeve on the back side of the shock tower) will allow you to pull the suspension down to align the lower bolt. Upper nuts should be nearly tight so the strut (actually, it is still a shock, but whatever) is as high as possible.
-Charlie
96RedRunner
Senior Member
[MENTION=8729]Speedy[/MENTION], I made an assumption on you knowing pivot bolts should be loose, sorry about that [MENTION=139000]phattyduck[/MENTION] nailed it.
I'll add always mark cams position before loosening bolts for LCA's.
I'll add always mark cams position before loosening bolts for LCA's.
96RedRunner
Senior Member
Oh it is missing link, found out the hard way going SS1.2 3"-4" lift like 14 years ago.
Its about time I pull the trigger on a suspension refresh at 250k miles. Im deciding between a Bilstein 5100 kit from SRQ with OEM springs (880/906 probably) and doing 5100s with new 99 tall springs. SRQ is attractive since the price is pretty damn good relative to putting it all together my self.
My truck is a 99 SR5 with manual trans and 4x4. Its often got bikes on the back and almost always 100lb of bull shit in the trunk. Goal is a mild lift going to the 265/75 tires that every one seem to use, and no major change in ride.
Used for mild off-roading a couple times a year and a lot of fire roads and some trailer pulling.
My truck is a 99 SR5 with manual trans and 4x4. Its often got bikes on the back and almost always 100lb of bull shit in the trunk. Goal is a mild lift going to the 265/75 tires that every one seem to use, and no major change in ride.
Used for mild off-roading a couple times a year and a lot of fire roads and some trailer pulling.
Romeo1
Member
Go the 906 route for 2 inch lift. 99 talls if you want less lift to no lift.
With a 265/75, 2" looks just right. It's a very nice combo without compromising anything and a look that everyone seems to really like.
I have a set of 906s laying around that need a home if you or anyone is interested.
Devbot
New member
What outer CV boots is everyone using? I bought a reboot kit but I can't bring myself to use the OEM plastic ones, all I see is them cracking very quickly and I've heard they slip pretty frequently. I'm currently using neoprene but they're already heavily cracked and about to split after <2 years
Are RCV boots worth a damn? I've heard iffy things about their axles, but their boots are silicone - and not an unsightly neon blue color too. Dobinsons apparently makes some CV boots too?
Are RCV boots worth a damn? I've heard iffy things about their axles, but their boots are silicone - and not an unsightly neon blue color too. Dobinsons apparently makes some CV boots too?
Speedy
Member
Is there something different about the OEM outter CVs now vs when these trucks were new? My originals are still on the struck and are fine after 21 years.
Devbot
New member
The hard plastic ones? How much lift do you have?
Speedy
Member
They seem like hard plastic to me. I've had 2-2.5" of lift for about 15 years or so.
Devbot
New member
Interesting, though I still dont know if I can bring myself to trust them - doubling the number of pleats and making it wayyy more stiff seems like the complete opposite of what you want in a CV boot...
