3rd Gen 4Runner Lift Information and FAQ's

Geometry is the same for 2WD and 4WD 3rd gen 4Runners. (well, the upper arms are different in the rear, but not an issue in this case)

You will get more lift in the front (0.5-1") due to the lighter weight without a front diff for any given spring. Rear should be about the same (though there is also a bit of extra weight to there rear due to the transfer case, but that is shared pretty evenly f/r)

-Charlie

Thanks so much for the quick reply. I figured that was most likely the case but didn't want to find out after buying materials and pulling out old springs that I have the one model that it won't work on!
 
Thanks so much for the quick reply. I figured that was most likely the case but didn't want to find out after buying materials and pulling out old springs that I have the one model that it won't work on!

Unless you are buying NEW coils, old coils will have sagged, but either way, there is an alignment in your future when switching things from stock.

Good luck!
 
96 2wd

Hey all, I’m new here. This post has been super informative. I recently purchased a 96’ 2wd and looking to put a lift on it, pretty much for aesthetics. Want to get it level. Originally was leaning towards the rough country 3” kit but everyone says the shocks are crap. With it being struts up front, if I have to replace them after 10-20k miles why not spend a little more and get something that will last. Thinking OME 881 and 906 springs with the top plate spacer. Got a few questions…with the spacer will that level my rig out? Where can I find said spacer? What are the best shocks/struts for the money while keeping a decent on road ride? Thanks guys, looking forward to my journey with my first 4Runner before handing it off to my daughter when she gets her license.
 
[MENTION=765055]GSwain[/MENTION] Welcome to hood !!

Bilstein 5100 99 tall springs excellent ride is very popular gets 100k mi for the cost.
If it has 150k miles on it lower ball joints tire can fall off and control arm bushings take priority. If you haven't heard.
 
Ok thanks for the input. Only have 116k miles. Couldn’t believe it. I have a list going of things to do over the next year. I will add that to it. The 99 tall springs - where can I find those and how much lift will it give it?
 
Ok thanks for the input. Only have 116k miles. Couldn’t believe it. I have a list going of things to do over the next year. I will add that to it. The 99 tall springs - where can I find those and how much lift will it give it?
That's only around 1" lift, but with a 2WD, the front will be higher.

I would suggest 4Runner specific 5100's all around with OME 2906 rear springs. Re-use your stock front springs and lift using the perch settings on the 906's. You don't really want want to go over 2" of lift, otherwise you start to have alignment issues. If you want more visual lift than that, add a 1" body lift.

-Charlie
 
The 99 tall springs - where can I find those and how much lift will it give it?

116K that's nice.
Dealer internet sales shop around for price. Price is buy once cry once category good for 150k mi.
Height is measured from hub center to body plumb above hub on a level surface.
96-98 01-02 new is 20" front 20.5" rear 99 Talls 21" front 21.5" rear.
 
96RedRunner said:
.

96-98 01-02 new is 20" front 20.5" rear 99 Talls 21" front 21.5" rear.

I've been looking to find the source of truth on this measurement - is it just anecdotal or is it officially documented somewhere?

The other question I've always had as a 99 owner, why did they single out this year with tall springs, besides, the lore of the Highlander model?



Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
I've been looking to find the source of truth on this measurement - is it just anecdotal or is it officially documented somewhere?
why did they single out this year with tall springs, besides, the lore of the Highlander model?

As for an official Toyota document never seen one sure there is somewhere.
Truth of the number's saw them in print in offroad magazine article 95 96 when vendors were
bringing stuff to market. Those numbers would of been called out by now if off the mark ya think.

99 Talls one year run, a guess was market related that didn't pan out to bean counters.
Was it a one year run for Highlanders that'll tell the tale.
 
I've been looking to find the source of truth on this measurement - is it just anecdotal or is it officially documented somewhere?

The other question I've always had as a 99 owner, why did they single out this year with tall springs, besides, the lore of the Highlander model?
There are frame height numbers in repair manual...

WSBj5Ud.jpg


(this page is the same for the '00 and '02 FSM's I have in digital form, I haven't checked the printed '99 I have in the garage)

Feel free to do the math...

-Charlie
 
Bilstein 5100s 880 front/890 rear?

This may have been discussed before, but i have searched and read a lot of old forum posts and am seeing mixed reviews.

But same as most 3rd gen owners. I am looking to lift my vehicle because my current suspension is tired. Current lift i am looking at here but am open to other lift options around the same price point.

Fronts

OME 880: Stock front weight, 1.5-inch lift

OME 881: Stock front weight, 2.5-inch lift

Rears

OME 906: Medium 1.5-inch lift coils

OME 890: Medium 2.5-3 inch lift coils

Personally i think about a 2 (+ -) inch lift would be perfect for what i am plan on using the vehicle for. I have heard mix reviews with both combos of 880/906 and 881/906 having rear sag. I, like most owners am looking to 100% not have my rear sit lower. I think the combo of the lower front lift spring(880) and the higher rear spring(890) will eliminate that possibility.



Have other owners run the 880 up front with the 890 in the rear? Are the pan hard correction kit and or front diff drop necessary for this?



Any insights on this would be appreciated. Please post some pics of your 3rd Gens!
 
I have a mostly original 2001 Limited. Like you mention, my suspension was tired. Don't let the tires fool you, it's had a very hard life. So, I just did this upgrade 2 months ago.
Front: OME 880 + Bilstein 5100 (on lowest perch)
Rear: OME 906 + Bilstein 5100

Here are the measurements I recorded completely unloaded, fender-lip to hub-center.
Before Install (tired original springs):
- Front: 20"
- Rear: 19.5"
- Panhard Bar Dvr-Pass = -1"
After Install (OME 880/906):
- Front: 21"
- Rear: 22(dvr), 21.5(pas)
- With Axle Side Panhard Correction: 0"

The 880/906 is a good combo that gives a slight forward lean. That works for me because I often carry stuff in the back. There are panhard correction kits with axle and frame extensions. I installed the axle side only (since the lift was very minor). I am very happy with this setup.

Note: there is a small dvr vs pass side height difference. The OME springs are side specific, with that difference to account for gas tank load. I think my tank is pretty empty at the moment.
 

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does anyone have any thoughts on running a 6112/5160/OME 890 setup with on my rig? i currently only have a rear bumper (~135lbs) and have plans to add a sleeping platform on the back. i don't think i'll be putting armor on the front anytime soon, but may later down the line, which is the reason why i wanted something adjustable up front.

would this setup be pretty futureproof? are there potential sagging issues in the front with a bumper later down the line?
 
does anyone have any thoughts on running a 6112/5160/OME 890 setup with on my rig? i currently only have a rear bumper (~135lbs) and have plans to add a sleeping platform on the back. i don't think i'll be putting armor on the front anytime soon, but may later down the line, which is the reason why i wanted something adjustable up front.

would this setup be pretty futureproof? are there potential sagging issues in the front with a bumper later down the line?


I'd say so. I'm not running a rear bumper or storage, but have everything else you mentioned. I wheel with 5 people inside,gear and recovery equipment regularly.

You'll want a pan hard correction for sure with the 890. I have a big rake at the moment, but am planning to move to the 2.3 setting up front next help that. I also run a which up front.

You can also go with a heavier rate spring up front in the future if needed. Stock 6112 uses 600lb springs. King makes a 650 I think and one other. Maybe bilstein?

It's a very high value proposition in my opinion with OEM level parts. They are well built with high quality isolators and fantastic dust seals. Is there better high performance options and more custom options out there. Yes. It they come with some additional challenges and maintenance. Race car parts usually but not always have race car maintenance.

I was in Elko around Thanksgiving, and a Tacoma with a full king set up and all kinds of aftermarket bushing set up was at a gas station. man, It was squeaking so loudly as it made a U-turn in the parking lot. Probably from the dirt and salt it had been in.

I wanted an Oem but better experience without lots of drama, valving and maintenance. I think the combo of parts you are asking about does all of that well at an incredible price point. I think you have to spend a good amount more money to really take a considerable jump in capability. Good tires and airing down is going to get you the rest of the way there in my opinion.

I would totally buy 6112s/5160 again in a heartbeat. Hell, I'd buy 8112s if they made it for our application.
 
I'd say so. I'm not running a rear bumper or storage, but have everything else you mentioned. I wheel with 5 people inside,gear and recovery equipment regularly.

You'll want a pan hard correction for sure with the 890. I have a big rake at the moment, but am planning to move to the 2.3 setting up front next help that. I also run a which up front.

You can also go with a heavier rate spring up front in the future if needed. Stock 6112 uses 600lb springs. King makes a 650 I think and one other. Maybe bilstein?

It's a very high value proposition in my opinion with OEM level parts. They are well built with high quality isolators and fantastic dust seals. Is there better high performance options and more custom options out there. Yes. It they come with some additional challenges and maintenance. Race car parts usually but not always have race car maintenance.

I was in Elko around Thanksgiving, and a Tacoma with a full king set up and all kinds of aftermarket bushing set up was at a gas station. man, It was squeaking so loudly as it made a U-turn in the parking lot. Probably from the dirt and salt it had been in.

I wanted an Oem but better experience without lots of drama, valving and maintenance. I think the combo of parts you are asking about does all of that well at an incredible price point. I think you have to spend a good amount more money to really take a considerable jump in capability. Good tires and airing down is going to get you the rest of the way there in my opinion.

I would totally buy 6112s/5160 again in a heartbeat. Hell, I'd buy 8112s if they made it for our application.

thanks for your reply. i ended up going with 5100s with 881s up front and 891s in the rear, with jba ucas to support it. while i've heard so much about how 6112s are so worth the money and a great investment, i decided on this for two reasons
1. budget
2. usage

i dont plan on offroading my vehicle or going on hard trails very often, this rig is more so meant for long distance travel and camping in "remote" areas. dont plan on doing anything impressive when it comes to offroading and dont want to push the limits of what it can do.

do you have any thoughts on this? i could always just cancel the order and place the 6112s but to be honest, i think? ill be okay.
 
Tundra 6112's 650#, LC 5160's 4Rnr 890's 10mm trim pack 3" lift F & R, PCK.
Coming up on 4 yrs. step up from 5100's not a King's ransom no complaints.
 
thanks for your reply. i ended up going with 5100s with 881s up front and 891s in the rear, with jba ucas to support it. while i've heard so much about how 6112s are so worth the money and a great investment, i decided on this for two reasons
1. budget
2. usage

i dont plan on offroading my vehicle or going on hard trails very often, this rig is more so meant for long distance travel and camping in "remote" areas. dont plan on doing anything impressive when it comes to offroading and dont want to push the limits of what it can do.

do you have any thoughts on this? i could always just cancel the order and place the 6112s but to be honest, i think? ill be okay.


5100's are great also. They'll serve you well.
 
Front 2.5”-3”lift for 97 sr5

Hello all. I have a 3” Ironman Offroad lift in the back and just some cheap lo ebay struts with a 2.5” spacer in the front. But would really love to increase ride quality on the front, i just dont really understand coilovers and which lifted struts i can use for my 4r. Even after reading the “Lift” post. It was very detailed just was missing the answer to my exact question. What struts (without spacer) can i put on the front to give it a 2.5”-3” lift to even out the lift. I know thats a leveling kit but even with the 2.5 spacer thats on right now it is not level with the ironman offroad 3” in the back. I know this makes it hard but money is a factor, this is a budget build. Driving from Michigan to Colorado in May and am really trying to have a smooth ride.

Thanks in advanced!
 
I have spent hours searching this forum and several others and I cant seem to find a definitive (or close to) answer regarding lift+larger tires+ spacers. I would just experiment with this but this vehicle lives at my parent's place 500 miles away and I will only have a few days to install everything before I need to have it fully operational.

I have a 2000 SR5. I am planning a 2" lift (881/890) w stock wheels.
It seems the only safe bet for tire size is 265/75/16, although I'd go larger if I could be sure it wouldnt be a huge pain to resolve rubbing issues.
Then the spidertrax question comes into play.

Can anyone point me to a thread, or directly answer whether or not I will have issues with rubbing with a 2" lift, stock wheels, BFG KO2 (265/75/16), and 1.25" spidertrax?

And if that is no issue - how large a tire can I fit with this setup without issues?
 

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